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Vani's blog 1

## Thursday, August 16, 2018

## Tuesday, June 23, 2015

### Method of preparing bodice block and sleeve block

__Measurements__Chest

Shoulder

Waist

Hip

Waist length

Hip length

Full length

Sleeve length

Sleeve round

bodice block and sleeve block |

__Bodice block (Figure 1)__

Fold a sheet of paper and mark A on the fold as shown in the
figure 1. Mark points D, G and J on the fold line as explained below.

.Mark point D such that A-D =⅛ chest +2½”.This is

**scye depth**
Mark point G such that A-G = waist length +½”

Mark point J such that A-J =hip length +2” to 3”. A-J can be increased according to the taste
or according to the style of the dress. This will be

**full length**of the garment.
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, G and J. to the
line A-J.

On the perpendicular
at A. mark point B such that A-B=¼ chest +1½”.

On the same line mark point C such that A-C=½ shoulder +¼”.
This is

**shoulder line.**
Mark point M such that A-M =⅟₁₂ chest (or to taste) +¼”.This
is

**neck width**
On the line A-J Mark point N such that A-N =1” to 1½” (or to
taste) this is

**back neck depth**. Join
points M and N by a
curved line M-N is

**back neck line.**.
On the same line A-J mark point O such that A-O= ⅛ chest or
to taste. This is front

**neck depth.**
Join point M-O by a curved line. This is

**front****neck line.**
From the point B drop a perpendicular B-K to the line to the
line A-B, such that B-K =A-J.

From the point D draw
a perpendicular. Let this line meet the line B-K at the point F. A-B =B-F .This
is

**chest line.**
From the point G draw
a perpendicular, let this line meet the
line B-K at a point H .On the line G-H mark point I such that I-H=¾”.G-I is the

**waist line.**
Join points J and K and produce. On this line mark point L
such that K-L =¼ seat +1½”

This is

**hip line.**
On the chest line mark point E such that A-C =D-E.

Join C-E. On this line mark point Q such that C-Q=1”.Join M-Q.

On the line C-E mark Point P such that E-P= ¾” or 1”Join the
points Q-E and Q-P-F as shown in the figure. Q-P-F is front

**armhole curve**and Q-F is back**armhole curve.**
On the line G-I, mark point R such that G-R =⅟₁₂ chest + ½”.
Draw perpendicular lines on R-S and R-S’ from the point R, perpendicular to the
line G-I on either side. R-S=R-S’=⅙ chest. At the point R a dart of ¾” is taken
on either side.

Join F-I-and L by a
curved line as shown in the figure. This is

**side seam line.**In this draft I have
added ½” for seams. While cutting the fabric you can
increase this by ¾ “by drawing another line parallel to and ¾” away from the
original side seam line. It is better to keep more seam width in case you want
to loosen the garment. On the line I-L mark L’ such that L-L’ =¾”.Join J-L’ by
a smooth curve .This is

**the bottom seam line**of the garment.
Cut along the back neck line N-M→ shoulder line M-Q→ back
armhole curve Q-F → side F-I-L’ → bottom hem line L’J.

Separate the two layers of sheet by cutting along the line
N-O-D-G-J. Keep one layer on which there is no marking aside. This is the draft
of the bodice back.

On the other layer cut along the front neck line M-O and front armhole curve C-E-F. This is the draft of the bodice front.

On the other layer cut along the front neck line M-O and front armhole curve C-E-F. This is the draft of the bodice front.

__Sleeve block (Figure 2 and 3)__

Fold a sheet of paper and mark point A, 2 “away from the
edge of the paper. Mark point B on the fold such that A-B = sleeve length +¼”.

From point B draw a perpendicular B-C whose length =⅛chest +
2½”( Please note that this is equal to the scye depth of the bodice) From point A draw a perpendicular line A-D
such that A-D = B-C.Join D-C.

On D-C mark point E such that E-C =⅛chest.

On the line B-C Mark point F such that B-F =1”.

Join F-E.

H is the middle point of E-F.H-I is perpendicular to H-F and
its length is equal to ¾”.

From the point E draw a perpendicular line E-G whose length
is equal to 2”Join F-E by a smooth curved line as shown in the figure. This is

**front armhole curve of the sleeve.**
Join F-I-E as shown in the figure 3 by a smooth curve. This
is

**back armhole curve of the sleeve.**
On the line A-D mark point L such that A-L equal to half
sleeve round +1”.

Join L-This is the

**side line**of the sleeve.
Produce Line B-A to J such that A-J =1¼”. From the point J
draw a line parallel to A-D.

Draw a line K-L as shown in the figure 3.

This gives a nice finish while folding and sewing sleeve
edge.

Cut along the lines B-F-I-E → E-L → L-K → K-J. Open the fold
and cut front armhole curve.This is the draft of the sleeve.

In this draft I have added ½” for seams. While cutting the
fabric you can increase this by ¾ “by drawing another line parallel to and ¾”
away from the original side seam line. It is better to keep more seam width in
case you want to loosen the garment.

## Monday, February 23, 2015

### Kimono sleeve nightgown with round yoke

Here are a few images which show the method of preparing the draft of kimono sleeve night gown with round yoke.

Prepare the draft of nightgown with kimono sleeve

Kimono sleeve nightgown draft |

Figure 2 |

Figure 3 |

Place the skirt portion on another sheet of paper and spread as shown and draw the shape as shown by dotted line in figure 4

Figure 4 |

New draft |

While cutting the fabric 1/2" extra is added along the curved edge A-B of the yoke and curved edge of the skirt A'-B'.This is for seams.Same draft is used for the back skirt portion

Stitching

Gather the skirt portion and stitch to the yoke.The rest of the procedure is same as that of kimono sleeve nightgown.Stitch a belt of contrast colour and secure it to the middle near the waist line at the back.

## Sunday, February 22, 2015

### Kimono sleeve nightgown with flare

The portion of the draft which is above the line C-J is body
and the portion which is below the line C-J is skirt portion.

Divide the skirt portion in to three portions by drawing
lines P-Q and R-S.( Figure 1).

Cut the skirt portion along the lines in the direction Q-P
and S-R till the points P and R and do not separate. (Figure 2)

Cut along the line C-J and separate skit portion from the
body portion.( Figure 3)

Spread the skirt portion as shown in the figure 4 on another
sheet of paper and secure them with pins.

If you want more flare you can spread them more.

If you want more flare you can spread them more.

Draw out line of the shape thus
formed as shown by dotted lines. Cut the shape out. This is the new flared
skirt portion. Figure 5.

Figure 5 |

Same draft is used for the back skirt portion of the nightgown.

Body portion is different.While cutting the fabric an extra 1/2" is added along the lines C-J of the body as well as to the top portion of the skirt .This is for seams.

Body portion is different.While cutting the fabric an extra 1/2" is added along the lines C-J of the body as well as to the top portion of the skirt .This is for seams.

Attach skirt body and proceed as explained HERE.

Stitch a belt of contrast colour and secure it to the middle near the waist line at the back.

Stitch a belt of contrast colour and secure it to the middle near the waist line at the back.

## Saturday, February 21, 2015

### Method of sewing nightgown with Kimono sleeve

**Measurements**

Full length

Chest

Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper.

Mark point A on the fold

On this line mark C such that A-C = ⅟₄ chest + 2”

A-B = full length + 1”( from shoulder line to hem)

Draw perpendicular lines from points A, C and B.

On the perpendicular line at A, mark points D and G such
that A-D = A-C and D-G =4”.

On the perpendicular line at C, mark points E and H such
that A-D =C-E and D-G =E-H.

On the perpendicular line at B Mark point F such that B-F
=A-D. Produce Line B-F to O such that F-O=5”.

Join points D-E-F and G-H.

On the line E-H mark point J such that E-J = 1½”.

On the line E-F Mark point I such that E-I = 1½”.

On the line G-H mark K such that H-K= 1”.

Join I-O.

Mark P on the I-P such that P-O =1”.

Join F-P by a curved line as shown in the figure.

Join I-J-K by a curved line as shown in the figure.

On the line A-D Mark L such that A-L =⅛ chest

On the line A-B mark N such that A-N = 3” or to taste. Shape
front neck by curve L-N.

On the line A-B mark point M such that A-M = 2” .Shape back neck by curve L-M.

Cut along the line G-K-J-I-P-F-B.

Cut back neck shape by cutting along the curve L-M.

Separate front and back of the draft by cutting along the
line M-N-C-B.

Keep one portion which has got no markings aside. This is
back draft. On the other portion the draft cut front neck shape L-N. This is
the draft of the front.

Figure 2 Draft pieces |

**Layout**

Use the draft s thus prepared and cut pattern pieces from the fabric.(figure 4)

Figure 5 Pattern pieces |

**Stitching**

Stitch the sleeve edges by folding ½” in side

Stitch neck with fitted facing as explained HERE.

Stitch sides

Stitch bottom by folding ½” inside.

You can decorate neck with embroidery.

## Monday, May 12, 2014

### Method of sewing night dress with round yoke -Style 2

Prepare the draft basic simple night dress and make the following changes.

( Figure 1)

Produce shoulder line J-H to R such that H-R = 1 ½ “. Widen the neck line as shown in the figure such that head passes through the neck. In this design there will be no neckline placket. P-Q is the new neck line.In this design front and back neck line is the same. From the point R draw new yoke line R-S so that the width of the yoke is same all over. Mark new armhole line H-F in between the back armhole line H-O-F and front arm hole line H-N-G. New armhole line cuts the yoke line R-S at the point T. In this design there will be no difference between front armhole line and back armhole line.

Cut and remove unwanted shaded portion .( Figure 2)

New draft will be like this.( Figure 3)

Separate yoke from the skirt by cutting along yoke line R- T-S.( Figure 4). Divide the skirt portion by drawing parallel lines U-V, W-X, Y-Z as shown .

Cut the draft along these lines. (Figure 5) .

Place the draft on another sheet of brown paper and spread the portions as shown in the figure 6 and Fix them with mask tapes. Join points T and D by a smooth curve.

Cut along the lines T-F-I-M-B-E-D-This is the draft of the skirt.( Figure 7 )

Cut the pattern pieces using these drafts as shown in the layout.Do not forget to add ½” seem for skirt top and yoke bottom as shown by purple lines.

Pattern pieces ( Figure 9 )

__Stitching__
Follow the method as explained here.

## Friday, May 2, 2014

### Method of sewing night dress with round yoke-Style 1

Draft of night dress with round yoke can be prepared by making a few additions to the draft of basic simple night dress.

Take a
folded sheet of paper and draw a parallel line X-Y, 6” away from the fold. Mark
point A on the line X-Y. Prepare the draft of simple night dress as explained
Here.

Produce the
line F-G-D let it meet the fold of the paper at D’.

Draw a line
L”-D” parallel to and 2” away from the line L-D.

G is the
midpoint of the armhole line of the back.

Join points
G and D by a curved line as shown. This curve intersects the armhole curve of
the front at the point M.

Cut the
draft along the line D'-D”-L”-L-K-J-H-G-O-F-I-M-B-B’

Separate
yoke from skirt by cutting along the curve G-M-D-D”D’.

Skirt
portion has two layers. Separate them by cutting along the fold D-’B’

Keep the
bottom layer aside .This is skirt back.

From the top
layer F-N-M. The remaining portion is skirt front.

Yoke portion
also has two layers. Fold and crease them together along the line L-D.

From the
bottom layer cut along the crease and remove portion L-L”-D”-D.This is the yoke
back.

From the top
layer cut along G-M-H. This is the yoke front.The extension L=L”-D-”D is for
neck line placket.

__Cutting__Place the paper pattern pieces on the fabric as shown in the layout cut the different pattern pieces.Add half an inch seem allowance as shown by dotted lines.

__Stitching__**Stitch the neck line plackets as explained**

**here.**Here we have added extra material so we need not attach separate strips for plackets. Place facing of the right back yoke on the extension of left back yoke and fix them with few stitches.

__Method of attaching piping to yoke__Prepare bias tape of width 1½” from a material of contrast colour. .Fold the bias tape in to half lengthwise. Tack folded bias tape to the right side of the back yoke, keeping raw edges of bias tape and bottom curve of the yoke together.

Place facing of the placket of the front yoke above the extension and secure them with pins.Tack the bias tape to the front yoke as explained earlier.

In the same way you can attach frills to the yoke.

Run two rows of long stitches Gather the middle portion of the skirt front and skirt back by pulling the one end of 2 threads together, so that its width is equal to the width of the yoke.

Keeping right sides together stitch front skirt to front yoke to front skirt and back yoke to back skirt sandwiching piping in between.

Join front portion to back by sewing along the shoulder lines.

Finish the neckline and armhole with piping as explained

**here.**

Stitch sides and finish the hem . Stitch buttons. Night dress with round yoke is ready!

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