Saturday, February 21, 2015

Method of sewing nightgown with Kimono sleeve


Full length

Method of drawing draft
Figure 1 Draft

Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper.
Mark point A on the fold
On this line mark C such that A-C = ⅟₄ chest + 2”
A-B = full length + 1”( from shoulder line to hem)
Draw perpendicular lines from points A, C and B.
On the perpendicular line at A, mark points D and G such that A-D = A-C and D-G =4”.
On the perpendicular line at C, mark points E and H such that A-D =C-E and D-G =E-H.
On the perpendicular line at B Mark point F such that B-F =A-D. Produce Line B-F to O such that F-O=5”.
Join points D-E-F and G-H.
On the line E-H mark point J such that E-J = 1½”.
On the line E-F Mark point I such that E-I = 1½”.
On the line G-H mark K such that H-K= 1”.
Join I-O.
Mark P on the I-P such that P-O =1”.
Join F-P by a curved line as shown in the figure.
Join I-J-K by a curved line as shown in the figure.
On the line A-D Mark L such that A-L =⅛ chest
On the line A-B mark N such that A-N = 3” or to taste. Shape front neck by curve L-N.
On the line A-B mark point M such that A-M = 2”.Shape back neck by curve L-M.
Cut along the line G-K-J-I-P-F-B.
Cut back neck shape by cutting along the curve L-M.
Separate front and back of the draft by cutting along the line M-N-C-B.
Keep one portion which has got no markings aside. This is back draft. On the other portion the draft cut front neck shape L-N. This is the draft of the front.

Figure 2 Draft pieces

Cut draft of neck facing as shown in figure 3.I have explained HERE in detail.

Figure 3


Use the draft s thus prepared and cut pattern pieces from the fabric.(figure 4)

Figure 4

Figure 5 Pattern pieces

Stitch the sleeve edges by folding ½” in side
Stitch neck with fitted facing as explained HERE.
Stitch sides
Stitch bottom by folding ½” inside.
You can decorate neck with embroidery.



Great tutorial :)

Robin said...

I like this method of sewing. It is so much simpler.

Vandana Gopalakrishnan said...

Dear vani ma'am, your tutorials are great help to me. Could you please tell me how to stitch front (center) open kameez and bell sleeves.

Thanks in advance

vani said...

Vandana Please see the following link

To this you can stitch collar or round neck

Usha Nagarajan said...

Very nice n easy to understand

Kaushalya Kala said...

shashikala said,
thank you so much for ur noble service which helps so many helpless people. i have stitched an overlap nighty with putty al around the neck.the problem is the putty is either getting curled or creased. why is it so?
Also when I stitch round or U neck , the neck sags , it does not hold in place. Please help.

maha said...

your tutorials are very very useful to me and others. when i have a doubt I refer ur tutorials.u done a very good job. please continue ur tutorials.we are thankful to u.god bless u mam.