Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Method of preparing bodice block and sleeve block

Waist length
Hip length
Full length
Sleeve length
Sleeve round

bodice block and sleeve block
This is the basic pattern of bodice block and sleeve block. Using this you can design any style of garment you like.

Bodice block (Figure 1)

Fold a sheet of paper and mark A on the fold as shown in the figure 1. Mark points D, G and J on the fold line as explained below.
.Mark point D such that A-D =⅛ chest +2½”.This is scye depth
Mark point G such that A-G = waist length +½”
Mark point J such that A-J =hip length +2” to 3”.  A-J can be increased according to the taste or according to the style of the dress. This will be full length of the garment.
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, G and J. to the line A-J.
 On the perpendicular at A. mark point B such that A-B=¼ chest +1½”.
On the same line mark point C such that A-C=½ shoulder +¼”. This is shoulder line.
Mark point M such that A-M =⅟₁₂ chest (or to taste) +¼”.This is neck width
On the line A-J Mark point N such that A-N =1” to 1½” (or to taste) this is back neck depth. Join
 points M and N by a curved line M-N is back neck line..
On the same line A-J mark point O such that A-O= ⅛ chest or to taste. This is front neck depth.
Join point M-O by a curved line. This is front neck line.
From the point B drop a perpendicular B-K to the line to the line A-B, such that B-K =A-J.
 From the point D draw a perpendicular. Let this line meet the line B-K at the point F. A-B =B-F .This is chest line.
 From the point G draw a perpendicular, let this line  meet the line B-K at a point H .On the line G-H mark point I such that I-H=¾”.G-I is the waist line.
Join points J and K and produce. On this line mark point L such that K-L =¼ seat +1½”
This is hip line.
On the chest line mark point E such that A-C =D-E.
Join C-E. On this line mark point Q such that C-Q=1”.Join M-Q.
On the line C-E mark Point P such that E-P= ¾” or 1”Join the points Q-E and Q-P-F as shown in the figure. Q-P-F is front armhole curve and Q-F is back armhole curve.
On the line G-I, mark point R such that G-R =⅟₁₂ chest + ½”. Draw perpendicular lines on  R-S and R-S’ from the point R, perpendicular to the line G-I on either side. R-S=R-S’=⅙ chest. At the point R a dart of ¾” is taken on either side.
Join  F-I-and L by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is side seam line. In this draft I have
added ½” for seams. While cutting the fabric you can increase this by ¾ “by drawing another line parallel to and ¾” away from the original side seam line. It is better to keep more seam width in case you want to loosen the garment. On the line I-L mark L’ such that L-L’ =¾”.Join J-L’ by a smooth curve .This is the bottom seam line of the garment.
Cut along the back neck line N-M→ shoulder line M-Q→ back armhole curve Q-F → side F-I-L’ → bottom hem line L’J.
Separate the two layers of sheet by cutting along the line N-O-D-G-J. Keep one layer on which there is no marking aside. This is the draft of the bodice back.
 On the other layer cut along the front neck line M-O and front armhole curve C-E-F. This is the draft of the bodice front.

Sleeve block (Figure 2 and 3)

Fold a sheet of paper and mark point A, 2 “away from the edge of the paper. Mark point B on the fold such that A-B = sleeve length +¼”.
From point B draw a perpendicular B-C whose length =⅛chest + 2½”( Please note that this is equal to  the scye depth of the bodice)  From point A draw a perpendicular line A-D such that A-D = B-C.Join D-C.
On D-C mark point E such that E-C =⅛chest.
On the line B-C Mark point F such that B-F =1”.
Join F-E.
H is the middle point of E-F.H-I is perpendicular to H-F and its length is equal to ¾”.
From the point E draw a perpendicular line E-G whose length is equal to 2”Join F-E by a smooth curved line as shown in the figure. This is front armhole curve of the sleeve.
Join F-I-E as shown in the figure 3 by a smooth curve. This is back armhole curve of the sleeve.
On the line A-D mark point L such that A-L equal to half sleeve round +1”.
Join L-This is the side line of the sleeve.
Produce Line B-A to J such that A-J =1¼”. From the point J draw a line parallel to A-D.
Draw a line K-L as shown in the figure 3.
This gives a nice finish while folding and sewing sleeve edge.
Cut along the lines B-F-I-E → E-L → L-K → K-J. Open the fold and cut front armhole curve.This is the draft of the sleeve.
In this draft I have added ½” for seams. While cutting the fabric you can increase this by ¾ “by drawing another line parallel to and ¾” away from the original side seam line. It is better to keep more seam width in case you want to loosen the garment.


PRIdesigned - The designer people said...

Hi vani mam ...my issue with sleeves is the lower portion towards the arm hole becomes very narrow

Liz Yahaya said...

Hello Madam Vani,

Thank you for the posting. It's a revision for me. I learned a lot from your blog previously in making salwar. I made it and it looked fantastic. Have been following you for many years now. On and off blogging so it's not really a constant activity. But now I am back into sewing. And it's such a motivation to have read blog like yours.

Keep up the great work.


latharenga said...

Madam, can you please give draft for jewel neckline frock. Is jewel neck line and yoke neck are the same? I need turtle neckline frock too.

vani said...

A jewel neckline is a high round neckline made with or without binding. It is the basic neckline used when drafting standard bodice pattern.

Esmeralda Flor Monteiro said...

Hi Vani Mam, in this post u mentioned that G-I if the waist through an oversight u forgot to mention what it should b the next sentence is join points J and K. Can you pls clarify what G-I if the waist should be. Regards Esme

vani said...

Sorry! There was a typing mistake. I have corrected it

Esmeralda Flor Monteiro said...

Thanks Vani Mam for the prompt reply

sharon carvalho said...

Is this method same for children and babies. Please advise.

vani said...


Esmeralda Flor Monteiro said...

Hi Vani Mam, can you please show me a draft for square neckline for children & adults. Waiting for your reply. Regards Esme

vani said...

Hi Esmeralda Flor Monteiro
I will post it soon.My 90 year old mother is suffering from dementia,I am little busy now.I will post it when I find time

Esmeralda Flor Monteiro said...

Thank you so much for your reply. I will keep your mother in my prayers. You pls take care of yourself. Regards Esme

craftersl15 said...

Hi Vani:

Sorry to hear about your mother.

When you do have time and feel up to writing again, could you please post a draft on empire line dresses/nightgowns such as in the picture in this url http://picvpic.com/women-loungewear/slinky-knit-long-nightgown#mazarine~blue

I find your instructions for drafting easy to understand. Thank you for posting all your knowledge for us to benefit from.

Kumudu said...

Hi Vani Mam,

So sorry to hear about your mother.

When you have time, can you please post a lesson on how to draw and sew a lab coat?

Thank you so much.

Anu Singh said...

Hi Vani Mam,
i love ur writting .I have just finished a kurti according to ur blog but that is having problem in bust area .its not getting fitted on armhole point.(after joining arm n armhole for 42 bust)what should i do?

vani said...

Hi Anu, check weather scye depth of the bodice is equal to B-c of the sleeve.Pin middle point B of the sleeve Pin edges of the sleeves to the edges of the armhole keeping right sides together.Start from the middle point and tack the sleeves and armhole together stretching the tight one a little bit.do the same thing for the other side also.

Esmeralda Flor Monteiro said...

Hi Vani, how is your mother?

vani said...

My mother is under medication. We have employed a care taker.She will be with her all the 24 hours.She remembers all my other 7 sisters expect me.She talks to me as if I am a stranger to her.I am managing her.From past 30 years She is staying with me.In the beginning I used to get depressed.Now I have come to terms.I pray God not to trouble her any more.My mother is a very intelligent lady,She has done a lot to us.

Esmeralda Flor Monteiro said...

Hi Vani God will bless u abundantly for all that ur doing for ur mother. T.c regards Esme

Mrs TJ said...

Hi Vani maam,
So sorry to hear about ur mother. Hope she gets well. Today Alzheimers and dementia are becoming very common. Your blog has been my biggest guide. Thanks for all your efforts. Dont be depressed that she has forgotten you. You can always talk to her about some significant events in the past and try if she remembers. Though it may not work at first, it might give some results. Lets pray god and hope for the best.

Take care,

jagadeeswari R said...

HI vani mam, I'm new to sewing. My husband gifted me a sewing machine. Can you please help me how to start with. (we recently transferred from tamil nadu to karnataka. So I want to learn online ) thank you

jagadeeswari R said...

HI mam, where do you get fabrics to stitch in bangalore.

Sam said...

Hi mam,
I'm very new to sewing.
My doubt is AD =(chest +2.50)/8 or
is it AD= chest/8 + 2.50
Please clear my doubt.

vani said...

A-D = (chest divided by 8) +2 1/2 inches

ankurchatterjee4@gmail.com said...

Nice posts mam
Easy learning
men s suits

Unknown said...

Dear Vani mam,your blog is very useful.
Thank you for posting.

Uju said...

Dear Vani, thanks for sharing, this article is very educative and i planning to apply on my fabric but there is a line where you said "1/4 SEAT +11/2, I don't understand what the seat measurement is? So please can kindly explain that to me; I am a complete novice to sewing. Many thanks in advance!

Lakshmi Krishnakumar said...

Vani garu,
Namaskarams! I wish to extend apologies first and then heartfelt thanks. Briefly, I'm 64 and having lived a very busy professional life, now trying to find peace and happiness through pursuing some of my hobbies which I'd given up.
Apologies because I felt a slightly offended feeling when I saw your site did not allow downloading facilities etc.
But as a mathematics student myself, I've been searching for a perfect, mathematically sound drafting techniques for dress making. there are innumerable Youtube videos. But nobody was convincing with the calculations while marking the pattern. Today, while drafting a pattern for my granddaughters, I revisited your blog site and drafted the pattern as per your clear instructions. As soon as, I finished drafting the pattern, the first thing was not to rest my aching legs but to send you a message of gratitude and appreciation.
Thanks again and please, please keep the good work going!
Keep good health and peace. May God bless you!
Lakshmi Krishnakumar