Cutting and stitching Anarkali salwar top

Layout

Place the draft prepared on the fabric as shown in the lay out and cut the different parts . While cutting the bodice back an extra extension of 1½” is added along the line L-E for button stands( shaded area). If the material is not wide enough ¼” of the extension is added for seams along the line L-E and while stitching separate pieces are attached.

Stitching

1. Stay stitch neck line, Shoulders, armscyes and top of the sleeves.
2. Stitch button stands (Plackets)
3. Stitch darts of width ¼ “
4. Stitch neck by giving piping or flat facing or fitted facing
5. Hem the sleeve edges.
6. Stitch the sides of the sleeves and sides of the bodice.
Measure the waist.
7. Cut a slash of 3” in the waist line of the skirt .Stitch it with continuous bound placket.
Measure the waist of the skirt. It should be equal to the waist of the skirt.
8. Attach the skirt to the bodice.
9. Finish the Curved bottom of the skirt by hemming

Anarkali salwar set top

Anarkali salwar top has two portions, bodice portion and skirt portion.It is figure-hugging till the upper torso and below that, it turns into a frock and gets a lot of flare.Length of the bodice will be up to lower border of the ribcage . Anarkali suits are worn with churidars . This dress can be stitched with plain sleeve, ¾ sleeve, full sleeve or sleeveless. Skirt can be gathered,pleated , flared , half circular or circular.
Circular cut skirt is also called umbrella skirt. There will be no side seams and no gathers in the waist.It requires material with wider width. If material with wider width is not available it can also be stitched by joining two pieces together such that joint comes at the back of the skirt.Anarkali dress looks good if it is stitched with flowing material like chiffon

method of drafting

Measurements need

Chest
Waist
Shoulder
Bodice length- measured from shoulder line near the neck to the lower border of the ribcage. (depends upon one's taste also )
Full length - from shoulder line to bottom of the dress.
Sleeve length
Sleeve round


Body front and back

A-E =Bodice length +1"
A-D =¼ chest -1”
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, and E
A-B =½ shoulders + ¼”
A-K = Neck width =1/12th chest or to taste
A-L =Back neck depth =1¾” or to taste
A-M = front neck depth 1/8th chest or to taste
D-F =¼ chest +1½” (if loose fitting is needed 2 “to 2½” can be added)
Mark point S on D-F such that D-S =A-B. Join B-S. On this line mark N such that S-N = 1½”
N-O = ¾”
Mark T on B-S such that B-T = 1”. Join K-T. Shape back neck K-L, front neck K-M as shown.
Shape front arm scye T-N-F and Back arm scye T-O-F
E-G =D-F and G-I =½”. Join F-I
Mark U on E-G such that E-U = 1/12th chest
P-U – dart length- 1/6th chest

Skirt

B-D =1/6th waist
A-D=Full length -bodice length +1½”
From B draw perpendicular B-C.
B-E =B-D and E-C = A-D Shape D-E and A-C as shown in the figure


Sleeves

refer here

To be continued............

Interchangeable strap keeper

Take ¼” wide satin ribbon. Let the length of the ribbon be little more than the length of the shoulder line. Stitch the raw edges. Sew the two halves of press fastener one on each side. stitch the middle of the ribbon to the safety pin as shown in the figure. This can be used as a strap keeper by fixing the safety pin to the seam of the arm scye where the shoulder line and the sleeve meet.

Method of stitching strap keepers

Strap keepers work in two ways .They prevent bra straps from peeping out of the neck and also prevent wide neck lines falling away.
Prepare fabric tubes from the fabric which was used to stitch the garment. The length of the fabric tube taken should be little more than the shoulder line of the garment. It should not be too long or short. Finish raw edges of the fabric tubes by turning them in. Sew the two halves of a press button one on each side of the fabric tube as shown in the figure. Fold the tube in the middle such that the two halves of the fastener face each other and stitch it to the seam of arm scye where the shoulder line is attached to the sleeve. If the length of the tube is too small there will be wrinkles on the shoulder. While wearing the garment one end of the strap is passed under the bra strap and the button is pressed together.

Method of stitching the kameez

Stay stitch neck, arm scyes and top of the sleeves.

Stitch the back opening of required length as explained here.

Join the shoulders.

Stitch darts starting from one pointed end to other pointed end . Fasten the threads at both the ends.
Stitch the neck with flat facing or fitted facing
Pin the sleeves to the arm scye, keeping right sides together ,taking care to pin sleeve front to body front and shoulder line to the middle line of the sleeve .Tack them together easing wherever necessary. Machine stitch them.
Join the sides of sleeves and sides of the body, starting from the sleeve end and to the point where the slit starts. Usually two lines are stitched side by side .But they should end at only one point where the slit starts as shown in the figure Turn the slits inside and stitch. Stitch the bottom of the kameez .

simple kameez

Measurements needed

Chest
shoulder
waist length
Full lrength
Hip
Sleeve length
Sleeve round

for taking measurements refer here

Body front and back

A-C = full length +1”
A-D =¼ chest -1”
A-E =waist length
Mark point R such that E-R = 7” (for seat line)
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, E, R and C
A-B =½ shoulders + ¼”
A-K = Neck width =1/12th chest or to taste
A-L =Back neck depth =1¾” or to taste
A-M = front neck depth 1/8th chest or to taste
D-F =¼ chest +1½” (if loose fitting is needed 2 “to 2½” can be added)
Mark point S on D-F such that D-S =A-B. Join B-S. On this line mark N such that S-N = 1½”
N-O = ¾”
Mark T on B-S such that B-T = 1”. Join K-T. Shape back neck K-L, front neck K-M as shown.
Shape front arm scye T-N-F and Back arm scye T-O-F
E-G =D-F and G-I =½”. Join F-I
R-S =¼ seat +1½”
C-H =¼ hip +2” shape I-S-H
C-J =½” shape kameez bottom J-H

Darts

Mark U on G-E such that U-E =1/12th chest.P-U =U-Q =1/6th chest

sleeves

A-B = Sleeve length + ½” Draw perpendiculars from A and B
A-C = ¼ chest -1” . A-C =B-D. Join C-D
A-L =1” . E-C = ½ of A-C
B-I= ½ sleeve round + 1”
Join I-E. Join E-L. G is mid- point of E-L.
H-G = 3/4 “. E-F = 2” Join E-F-L and E-H-L. As shown

Cut the draft along the line K-T-O-F-I-S-H-J-C-R-E-D-M-L-K.Separate the sheets. Keep one aside. This is the draft of the kameez back. In the other portion cut the front neck shape K-M and front scye shape T-N-F.
Cut the sleeves draft along the line A-B-J-K-I-E -H –L-A. Open the fold .Cut the front sleeve shape E-F-L-A Draft of the sleeves is ready.
Place the paper drafts on the fabric as shown in the layout and cut the different parts of the kameez.

Method of stitching a neck with fitted facing

Using these drafts cut facing pieces (figure 1)


Method of attaching facing to the Garment


Stay stitch the neck of the garment and the facing,
Stitch shoulder seams of the garment and the facing keeping the same seam allowance. Open the seams and press. (Figure 2)
Fold the lower edge of the facing by ¼” and press. Keep the facing flat on the garment, right sides together, matching the shoulder lines and the contour of the neck. Baste them together. Machine stitch on the seam line. Trim the seam by ¼”. Clip the curved edges and cut the corners a little, taking care not to cut the stitching. (Figure 3 )
Press the seams towards facing secure them by under stitching on the right side of the facimg.Turn the facing inside on the seam line such that facing is not visible from the right side and it lies flat on the garment.Press.Secure the facing against the garment with short hemming stitches Figure 4