Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Method of drafting plain sleeve

Measurements needed
Sleeve length
Sleeve round
Chest
Mark B-D on fold = Sleeve length +½” (Shaded portion is 1” for in turn for plain sleeve.)
D-C =1/12 Th chest+½”
Draw perpendiculars from D, C, and B
D-E =¼ chest -1”
D-E =C-F
B-J= half sleeve round + ½”
Join D-F and F-J
Divide D-F into four equal parts by points G,H and I. Draw perpendiculars from those points such that
G-K= ¼”, H-L=½” and I-M=¼”
Join the points F-K-H-M-D by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the front portion of the sleeve.
Join the points F-L-D -by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the back portion of the sleeve.
Cut the paper draft along the line B-J-F-L-M-D. Open the fold .and cut along the curved line F-K-H-M-D.
This is the draft of basic plain sleeve. Outline of the draft is traced on a fairly thick card board and a block is prepared which can be used as foundation for all other types of sleeves.

Sunitha said...

Hi Vani,

Just one doubt in the plain sleeve draft. Does the draft include the seam allowances or is it to be included while cutting the fabric?

vani said...

Hi sunitha
seam allowance is include din the draft

revathi said...

hi vani,

i have a doubt, this draft of the plain sleeve is different from the sleeve draft which is given in simple kameez. kindly clarify.

revathi said...

hi vani,

i have a doubt, the draft in this is different from the sleeve draft given in plain kameez post. kindly clarify.

vani said...

Both are correct.you follow the method which gives you good fit.there are various ways of calculating.

hello Vani,

One doubt. DE and CF is 4 and 1/2, DJ comes to 7 and 1/2. But in your figure, it seems BJ is less than CF. Could you please clarify.
in my measurement, slv round is 7 and chest is 22.

Regards,
Sharmila

vani said...

B-J = 3 1/2+ 1/2=4"
C-F = 4 1/2"
B-J is smaller than C-F

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Hi Vani, can you pls let me know if this plain sleeve draft can be used for boys as well. Regards Esme

lydia said...

liked your method of drafting.my chest is 44. i tried to do your method but there it does not show inclusive of extras seem. cos i read in the previous comments. you said it does include seem please clarify.

vani said...

when it is given + some thing it means seems is included,if you want more you have to add extra.

squkyshoes said...

Looking at your Kameez sleeve instructions and comparing it to this I believe you forgot to put: 1/2 sleeve round + 1/2" for BJ.
This is why in the figures BJ is indeed smaller than CF.

vani said...

Thanks for Pointing out my mistake. I I have corrected it

rohini ravishankar said...

Hi madam. Can I use this sleeve draft for kids frocks or will there be any difference in the pattern for kids?

vani said...

You can use

manisha purohit said...

When in body part armhole length is 1/4 of chest then we will take sleeve block width also 1/4 of chest

manisha purohit said...

When in body part armhole length is 1/4 of chest then we will take sleeve block width also 1/4 of chest