Method of stitching A line frock with round yoke.

This frock has got two parts .One is the round yoke with facing and the other is skirt portion. Top edge of skirt portion is sandwiched between the  layers of yoke and yoke facing and stitched. Circular edge of the yoke and neck if finished with piping.
Prepare the draft as explained  here
Using the draft prepared cut yoke, yoke facing and front and back skirt pieces Mark the points X, X',H,H',Y,Y' , G and ,G' on the skirt pieces as-well as on the yoke pieces.

pattern pieces of the dress

Make a slash of 2” In the middle of the curved edge of the skirt back for opening.

Stay stitch around yokes and armsyes.

Join yoke front to yoke back at shoulders. Open the seams and press. Repeat it for yoke facing.

shoulder lines are joined

seems opened and pressed

Yoke facing

Fold the bias binding or piping in to half, width wise and press.
Place folded bias binding on the right side of the yoke along the curved edge,keeping raw edges together and stitch having a seem of 1/2" all around.

Tack piping to the neck line keeping raw edges together.Clip the curve around the yoke.

Fold the raw edges of the yoke inside and press

Piping folded back

Place the yoke facing on the yoke,keeping right sides together and matching shoulder lines and curves. Secure them with pins. Stitch them together along the back opening and neck line, 1/2' away from the raw edges as shown in the figure below. Clip the curves.

Facing placed on the yoke

Turn inside out and press. Now yoke is ready.

Finished yoke

Yoke with facing

part of the armscyes are in  the skirt portion. Finish them with piping Finish slash made in the skirt back with continuous bound placket. 

Stitch front skirt to front yoke facing keeping right side of the facing to wrong side skirt together, matching points.X andX' on the yoke to X and X’ on the skirt.with a seam of 1/2''.

In the same way stitch skirt back to left and right yoke of the back.

Skirt front

skirt back

Smooth the yoke on the facing, position piping of the yoke such that it covers the row of stitches on the skirt.

Tack in place. Stitch in ditch. (Machine stitch should fall where piping meets the yoke.)

Finish the hem by folding ½” inside.Attach press snaps or hook and eye to the plackets.

Finished frock front view

Finished frock back view

Preparing draft of A line frock with round yoke -variation 4

Prepare the draft of A line frock as explained here without extension on the shoulder line Draw new armhole

curve L-E as shown by dotted line. In this garment there is no difference between front armhole shape and back armhole shape. Curve L-E is common for front and back of the draft..

 

Produce the shoulder line F-L to L’ such that L-L’ = 1” to 1½”. Curve G-F is back neck line. Mark G’ on the line G-B such that G-G’=F-L’. Draw curve G’-L’ keeping the distance between the curve G-F and G’ L’ constant.The shape F-G-G’ L’ F is back yoke.

 Curve F-H is front neck line.Mark H’ on the line G-B such that F-L’ =H-H’

Join points H’-L’ by a curved line, such that the distance between curve H-F and H’-L’ constant.

The shape F-H-H’-L’ is front yoke.

On the draft of the front mark point X at the intersection of the curves L-E and H-L’

Separate the yoke from the skirt cutting along the curve H’-X

On the draft of the back mark point Y at the intersection of the curves L-E and G-L’

Separate the yoke from the skirt cutting along the curve G’-Y.

Add an extra strip of width ½” along the line G-G’ of the right back yoke for seams and add an extra strip of width 1” for the left back yoke for extension along the line G-G’

Add extra ½” along the curves L’- X -H’-X-’ L’ of the front yoke, curve  L'-Y-G' of the left back yoke and curve  L’-Y'-G'  of the right back yoke.

Add ½’ extra for seems along the curves X-X’ and Y-Y’ of front and back skirt.

 

Aline frock with flounce Variation 3

Prepare the draft of "A line" frock. On the draft of the front mark three curved lines dividing the draft below the chest line  into three equal parts.I have marked them with dotted lines,Do the same thing for the draft of the back..Stitch the A line frock as usual..Attach flounces on the lines marked.
Please refer step frock tutorial for  method of attaching flounces

A line frock variation 2

A line frock Variation 1

Using the draft of “A “line frock as basis we can create many different types of dresses

Here is one such dress.

Prepare a draft of” A “line frock as explained here without extension at the shoulder

Mark point X on the fold 2” below line C- E as shown in step 1

 

Cut along the line X-E and separate the front draft in two portions as shown in step 2

While cutting the fabric ½” is added along the line X-E on both portions as shown in step 3

 

You can keep the draft of the back as it is or you can cut it into two pieces as we did for the front.

Cutting and stitching

Cut the two portions of the front in different colours.

Join them together taking care that there are no wrinkles near the “V” shape.

Rest of the rest of procedure is same as that of “A” line frock.

Oh! not again!

Hi readers!

http://pratibhacollection.com/sap13.html has copied my posts of Vani's blog 1 and 2

and posted in her blog under the heading student's blog.I do not know what should be done.

Step frock

This frock has got 3 steps of ruffles or frills.One is attached to the waist line and the other two  are attached to the skirt portion.Skirt portion is not visible and it will be covered with ruffles .Good material is used for bodice and ruffles and ordinary material can be used for the skirt.If the frock is stitched with sheer  fabric  it looks great if satin is used for the lining of the bodice and also for the skirt portion.

A-D = full length of the frock

A-C = waist length

A-B =¼ chest

From the points A, B, C and D draw perpendiculars for the line A-D.

On the perpendicular line at A Mark point E such that A-E= ½ shoulder + ½”.

On the perpendicular at B mark G such that B-G =¼ chest +1½”

On the perpendicular at C mark I such that C-I =¼ waist + 1½”.

On the perpendicular at D mark point K such that D-K =B-G + 3”.

From the point E drop a perpendicular for the line A-E.

Let this meet the line B-G at H.

Join E-H. On this line Mark p

oint F such that E-F =1”

On the same line mark T such that H-T = 1”

On the line A-E mark P such that A-P = neck width ⅟₁₂ chest +¼” or to taste.

On the line A-D mark R such that A-R = front neck depth=⅟₁₂ chest +1”.

On the same line mark Q Such that A-Q = back neck depth=1”

Shape Q-P and R-P.

Join P-F. Shape back and front armhole curves F-G and F-T-G as shown in the figure.

Join G-I. On this line Mark J such that J-I = ½”.

Join I-K.  On this line Mark S such that S-K = ¾”

Shape D-S.

Cut the draft along the line Q-P- F –G-J-S-D.

Separate skirt from the bodice by cutting along the line C-J.

Sleeves

 

A-B=sleeve length + 2”

From A and B draw perpendiculars to line A-B

Mark D such that A-D = ¼chest+1½”

From point D drop a perpendicular. Let it meet perpendicular from B at the point C.

On D-C mark point E such that D-E= ⅟₁₂ chest + ¾”

Bisect the angle ADE by a line .Let it meet the line A-E at the point G.

Shape front and back of arm scye as shown .On line B-C mark point F such that C-F = ½”.

Join E-F

On this line mark k such that F-K = ½”

Join B-K as shown.

While cutting the fabric add ½” seam for the skit and the bodice along the curve C-J as shown in the figure2. Add extensions for the plackets (Right and left button stands) for the right and left bodice back along the line Q-C.

 

Open the fold of the skirt portion. Divide the skit portions (Front and back) in to 3 portions by drawing lines  L-M-L and O-N-O parallel to the curve J-C-J. Measure each curve. Ruffles are sewn on these lines.

 

Lay out

Bodice and ruffles or frills are cut from a good material. Skirt portion is cut with an ordinary material of the same colour as frills cover the skirt portion.

Width of the strip should be such that it covers the top seam of the frill which is just below. So the width of each strip should be equal to the distance between two lines + 1” seam for top and bottom of the strip +2” for overlapping.

Length of each strip should be equal to 2 to 2½ times the length of each curve X 2. This is for front and back of the skirt. More the length more will be the ruffles.

Stitching.

Bodice

Stay stitch the curves

Stitch plackets.

Join front and back of the bodice along the shoulder line. Finish neckline. Stitch sides. Attach sleeves.

Skirt.

Stitch sides matching the corresponding curves. Finish the hem.

Mark first curve by notches and others by pencil mark into haves and quarters.

  Finish one long edge of the strip with narrow hem. It can also be finished by piping or lace edging. Stitch the short sides together. Mark the raw edge of the strip by notches into haves and quarters. Loosen sewing machine tension and stitch two rows of basting stitches. Lower stitch should be on seam line and the other should be near the raw edge.

There are 3 steps of frills in this design.

First attach ruffles on the last curve.

Pin the strip to the curve, right sides together and matching the marking or notches done to mark the quarters and halves. The finished edge of the strip should come towards the waist line and raw edge should face the hem of the skirt as shown in the figure. Working on one section at a time, grab both bobbin threads and start pulling until the ruffle length is the same as the garment between the 2 pins. Distribute the gathers evenly and secure them with pins at places. Secure the ruffles in place by running stitch. Finally machine stitch them together. This step can be avoided if you feel comfortable with sewing with pins coming in the way. Flip the ruffle to right side top stitch.

 

 Follow the same procedure to stitch the ruffle to the middle curve. 

 

Pin the ruffle to the waist line that is first curve , keeping right sides together and matching the markings. Here the finished edge of the ruffle should face the hem. The rest of the procedure is same as before. Attach the skirt with ruffles to the bodice