Saturday, February 18, 2012

Method of stitching A line frock with round yoke.

This frock has got two parts .One is the round yoke with facing and the other is skirt portion. Top edge of skirt portion is sandwiched between the  layers of yoke and yoke facing and stitched. Circular edge of the yoke and neck if finished with piping.
Prepare the draft as explained  here
Using the draft prepared cut yoke, yoke facing and front and back skirt pieces Mark the points X, X',H,H',Y,Y' , G and ,G' on the skirt pieces as-well as on the yoke pieces.

pattern pieces of the dress

Make a slash of 2” In the middle of the curved edge of the skirt back for opening.
Stay stitch around yokes and armsyes.
Join yoke front to yoke back at shoulders. Open the seams and press. Repeat it for yoke facing.

shoulder lines are joined
seems opened and pressed

Yoke facing

Fold the bias binding or piping in to half, width wise and press.
Place folded bias binding on the right side of the yoke along the curved edge,keeping raw edges together and stitch having a seem of 1/2" all around.

Tack piping to the neck line keeping raw edges together.Clip the curve around the yoke.

Fold the raw edges of the yoke inside and press
Piping folded back

Place the yoke facing on the yoke,keeping right sides together and matching shoulder lines and curves. Secure them with pins. Stitch them together along the back opening and neck line, 1/2' away from the raw edges as shown in the figure below. Clip the curves.
Facing placed on the yoke
Turn inside out and press. Now yoke is ready.

Finished yoke

Yoke with facing
part of the armscyes are in  the skirt portion. Finish them with piping Finish slash made in the skirt back with continuous bound placket. 
Stitch front skirt to front yoke facing keeping right side of the facing to wrong side skirt together, matching points.X andX' on the yoke to X and X’ on the skirt.with a seam of 1/2''.
In the same way stitch skirt back to left and right yoke of the back.

Skirt front

skirt back

Smooth the yoke on the facing, position piping of the yoke such that it covers the row of stitches on the skirt.
Tack in place. Stitch in ditch. (Machine stitch should fall where piping meets the yoke.)
Finish the hem by folding ½” inside.Attach press snaps or hook and eye to the plackets.
Finished frock front view
Finished frock back view



Mahalakshmi said...

The tutorial is so explanatory and I love it.Though I know how to stitch I love to go through your tutorials.I am not that good at explaining and it is really a god's gift.Lovely work..Keep going...

vani said...

Thanks a lot for the appreciation

Hobby Sewer said...

Dear Vani Mam,

Thanks for your tutorial. I dont have daughters however I will modify this to stitch a tunic for me. I am still eagerly waiting for your salwar tutorial.

One more thing, do you have any idea where in Chennai/Bangalore we can get quilting or rotary rules (with 1/8 inch markings).I saw your post in Indus Ladies that you got Rotary cutter and Cutting mat from Reliance stationary. I checked with them and they dont have rotary rulers.


vani said...

I also did not get quilt ruler.I will post the tutorial of salwar soon.

Kitty said...

hi. I used to have a pattern for a nightie with a round yoke. it was so comfortable. it was lost many years ago. I'd like to know how to Make one for myself. how did you decide how to make the yoke please? thanks, Kitty

Kitty said...

oops, I forgot to click the box for follow up posts. sorry to repost