Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Step frock

This frock has got 3 steps of ruffles or frills.One is attached to the waist line and the other two  are attached to the skirt portion.Skirt portion is not visible and it will be covered with ruffles .Good material is used for bodice and ruffles and ordinary material can be used for the skirt.If the frock is stitched with sheer  fabric  it looks great if satin is used for the lining of the bodice and also for the skirt portion.

A-D = full length of the frock
A-C = waist length
A-B =¼ chest
From the points A, B, C and D draw perpendiculars for the line A-D.
On the perpendicular line at A Mark point E such that A-E= ½ shoulder + ½”.
On the perpendicular at B mark G such that B-G =¼ chest +1½”
On the perpendicular at C mark I such that C-I =¼ waist + 1½”.
On the perpendicular at D mark point K such that D-K =B-G + 3”.
From the point E drop a perpendicular for the line A-E.
Let this meet the line B-G at H.
Join E-H. On this line Mark p
oint F such that E-F =1”
On the same line mark T such that H-T = 1”
On the line A-E mark P such that A-P = neck width ⅟₁₂ chest +¼” or to taste.
On the line A-D mark R such that A-R = front neck depth=⅟₁₂ chest +1”.
On the same line mark Q Such that A-Q = back neck depth=1”
Shape Q-P and R-P.
Join P-F. Shape back and front armhole curves F-G and F-T-G as shown in the figure.
Join G-I. On this line Mark J such that J-I = ½”.
Join I-K.  On this line Mark S such that S-K = ¾”
Shape D-S.

Cut the draft along the line Q-P- F –G-J-S-D.
Separate skirt from the bodice by cutting along the line C-J.


A-B=sleeve length + 2”
From A and B draw perpendiculars to line A-B
Mark D such that A-D = ¼chest+1½”
From point D drop a perpendicular. Let it meet perpendicular from B at the point C.
On D-C mark point E such that D-E= ⅟₁₂ chest + ¾”
Bisect the angle ADE by a line .Let it meet the line A-E at the point G.
Shape front and back of arm scye as shown .On line B-C mark point F such that C-F = ½”.
Join E-F
On this line mark k such that F-K = ½”
Join B-K as shown.
While cutting the fabric add ½” seam for the skit and the bodice along the curve C-J as shown in the figure2. Add extensions for the plackets (Right and left button stands) for the right and left bodice back along the line Q-C.

Open the fold of the skirt portion. Divide the skit portions (Front and back) in to 3 portions by drawing lines  L-M-L and O-N-O parallel to the curve J-C-J. Measure each curve. Ruffles are sewn on these lines.
Lay out

Bodice and ruffles or frills are cut from a good material. Skirt portion is cut with an ordinary material of the same colour as frills cover the skirt portion.
Width of the strip should be such that it covers the top seam of the frill which is just below. So the width of each strip should be equal to the distance between two lines + 1” seam for top and bottom of the strip +2” for overlapping.
Length of each strip should be equal to 2 to 2½ times the length of each curve X 2. This is for front and back of the skirt. More the length more will be the ruffles.
Stay stitch the curves
Stitch plackets.
Join front and back of the bodice along the shoulder line. Finish neckline. Stitch sides. Attach sleeves.
Stitch sides matching the corresponding curves. Finish the hem.
Mark first curve by notches and others by pencil mark into haves and quarters.
  Finish one long edge of the strip with narrow hem. It can also be finished by piping or lace edging. Stitch the short sides together. Mark the raw edge of the strip by notches into haves and quarters. Loosen sewing machine tension and stitch two rows of basting stitches. Lower stitch should be on seam line and the other should be near the raw edge.
There are 3 steps of frills in this design.
First attach ruffles on the last curve.

Pin the strip to the curve, right sides together and matching the marking or notches done to mark the quarters and halves. The finished edge of the strip should come towards the waist line and raw edge should face the hem of the skirt as shown in the figure. Working on one section at a time, grab both bobbin threads and start pulling until the ruffle length is the same as the garment between the 2 pins. Distribute the gathers evenly and secure them with pins at places. Secure the ruffles in place by running stitch. Finally machine stitch them together. This step can be avoided if you feel comfortable with sewing with pins coming in the way. Flip the ruffle to right side top stitch.

 Follow the same procedure to stitch the ruffle to the middle curve. 


Pin the ruffle to the waist line that is first curve , keeping right sides together and matching the markings. Here the finished edge of the ruffle should face the hem. The rest of the procedure is same as before. Attach the skirt with ruffles to the bodice


vaheeda said...

beautiful.......I used to stich this for my friends daughter.

Cik Sue said...

nice...i must try heeee...

rajarajeswari k said...


rajarajeswari k said...

wow,very nice.thank u very much.i shall go through your script

rajarajeswari k said...

wow very nice.thank u very much.i shall go through your script.

poornima said...

nice description....

Amina Khaleel said...

first time here... your blog is fabulous with great tutorials.... i too like designing clothes.. glad to follow you... please do visit my blog if you find time..

humaira said...

Hi aunty!This is Humaira!I am a beginner in sewing and doing really poorly in it!Most of the things just go above my head!Can u please start a beginners thread which strats everything from scratch like a simple kameez,salwar,baby frock!Plz include the videos of cutting,sewing and drafting!I will be really grateful!

vani said...

Please see my older posts.i have posted almost all

Flora said...

Nice dress and a wonderful tutorial. Thanks for sharing.

Unknown said...

Dear vani aunt
You are a great teacher,Love you for all your detailed drafts/patterns to helps us in sewing.I request you if possible please upload pattern for "fish cut dress" for toddler.Love to sew one for my daughter for her birthday.Thanks in advance,and great appreciations for this superb blog.
Thank you and eagerly waiting for your reply.
Best Regards

aiyexha said...

bagi would u plz plz teach to sew a dupatta gala(neck) or cowl neck

sandhya said...

This is my first visit to your blog.. I want to thank you for all the valuable and detailed information that you have posted ...

hobby sewer said...

Dear Vani,

Thanks for all the excellent tutorials you offer . I discovered your blog only a couple of months back and now a days I use it very frequently.

I tried your draft on the nightie and it came out with a perfect fit. Thanks. This has boosted my confidence (I started learning stit ching only 4 months back) One small thing I wanted to point out. In the nightie's draft

A-B = 1/2 of shoulder width + 1/4".
Hope I am telling the right thing.

Also, I searched for a normal salwar draft in your blog and was not able to find. Can you please point me to the link . In case if such post is not there, can you please share the draft in the near future.

Thank You so much for this wonderful blog.

vani said...

A-B = 1/2 of shoulder width + 1/4".
is correct.
So for no one had asked about normal salwar.so I did not post it!
i will post it soon.

Anne Maskell said...

Hi Vani. My name is Anne, and I would just like to thank you for all of your hard work in creating this blog. The information you have provided is so helpful! I am excited to try drafting some items myself. I also visited your embroidery blog, and I am in awe of your fantastic needlework. I look forward to future posts. Thanks again, Anne.

Renu Yadav said...

hi aunty kya aap frock on bias ka drafting bana kar sikha denge pl.

Renu Yadav said...

hello vaniji, kya aap jeans par pahne jane vali frock kurti on bias draft bana denge pl.

Renu Yadav said...

hello vaniji, kya aap jeans par pahne jane vali frock kurti on bias draft bana denge pl.

Anonymous said...

Dear Vani madam. I am Sudha from bangalore. I have Seen your blog of tailoring tutorial. I liked it very much. I want to learn stitching. Are you conducting tailoring classes in your home or any where, from basic to professional? I want to become your student. If it is so please tell me your address and phone number.
Thank you.

Bee And San said...

Hi,Beautiful blog.You are a great teacher.I do stitch for my kids when they were small and now for my grand daughter.Still I check on your blog before doing a new project.I have suggested your blog to many. Thank you very much for all your effort.

vani said...

Thank you for the appreciation

Anonymous said...

thank you so much for the lesson.
I stitched one for my daughter, she wore it for her birthday, i was feeling so proud. major credit goes to you , thank you once again

Anonymous said...

thank you for the lesson.

vani said...

Happy to know my blog was useful to you

Debasmita Das said...

thanks to u for giving me so much knowledge about stitching

sophie said...

hi vani i really appreciate your blog.but i didnt get clear on the armhole measurement how is the curve drawn ie. front and back pieces and sleeves also.it is the most important part of a dress.i stich dresses but do not get perfection on this part.hope you,ll please help me.

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Hi Vani, fabulous work, pls let me know how many meters of material would I require to make this dress for a 5yrs child. Regards Esme

Anonymous said...

Respected Ma'm,
I made a perfect dress as detailed by you.It took lot of time to note down sketch drawing with measurements as every time I have ti scroll up and down! May bring some more dress projects. With regards. Sarita Jaswal, 17-01-2016, Himachal Pradesh