Method of preparing bodice block and sleeve block

Measurements
Chest
Shoulder
Waist
Hip
Waist length
Hip length
Full length
Sleeve length
Sleeve round

bodice block and sleeve block

This is the basic pattern of bodice block and sleeve block. Using this you can design any style of garment you like.

Bodice block (Figure 1)

Fold a sheet of paper and mark A on the fold as shown in the figure 1. Mark points D, G and J on the fold line as explained below.

.Mark point D such that A-D =⅛ chest +2½”.This is scye depth

Mark point G such that A-G = waist length +½”

Mark point J such that A-J =hip length +2” to 3”.  A-J can be increased according to the taste or according to the style of the dress. This will be full length of the garment.

Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, G and J. to the line A-J.

 On the perpendicular at A. mark point B such that A-B=¼ chest +1½”.

On the same line mark point C such that A-C=½ shoulder +¼”. This is shoulder line.

Mark point M such that A-M =⅟₁₂ chest (or to taste) +¼”.This is neck width

On the line A-J Mark point N such that A-N =1” to 1½” (or to taste) this is back neck depth. Join

 points M and N by a curved line M-N is back neck line..

On the same line A-J mark point O such that A-O= ⅛ chest or to taste. This is front neck depth.

Join point M-O by a curved line. This is front neck line.

From the point B drop a perpendicular B-K to the line to the line A-B, such that B-K =A-J.

 From the point D draw a perpendicular. Let this line meet the line B-K at the point F. A-B =B-F .This is chest line.

 From the point G draw a perpendicular, let this line  meet the line B-K at a point H .On the line G-H mark point I such that I-H=¾”.G-I is the waist line.

Join points J and K and produce. On this line mark point L such that K-L =¼ seat +1½”

This is hip line.

On the chest line mark point E such that A-C =D-E.

Join C-E. On this line mark point Q such that C-Q=1”.Join M-Q.

On the line C-E mark Point P such that E-P= ¾” or 1”Join the points Q-E and Q-P-F as shown in the figure. Q-P-F is front armhole curve and Q-F is back armhole curve.

On the line G-I, mark point R such that G-R =⅟₁₂ chest + ½”. Draw perpendicular lines on  R-S and R-S’ from the point R, perpendicular to the line G-I on either side. R-S=R-S’=⅙ chest. At the point R a dart of ¾” is taken on either side.

Join  F-I-and L by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is side seam line. In this draft I have

added ½” for seams. While cutting the fabric you can increase this by ¾ “by drawing another line parallel to and ¾” away from the original side seam line. It is better to keep more seam width in case you want to loosen the garment. On the line I-L mark L’ such that L-L’ =¾”.Join J-L’ by a smooth curve .This is the bottom seam line of the garment.

Cut along the back neck line N-M→ shoulder line M-Q→ back armhole curve Q-F → side F-I-L’ → bottom hem line L’J.

Separate the two layers of sheet by cutting along the line N-O-D-G-J. Keep one layer on which there is no marking aside. This is the draft of the bodice back.
 On the other layer cut along the front neck line M-O and front armhole curve C-E-F. This is the draft of the bodice front.

Sleeve block (Figure 2 and 3)

Fold a sheet of paper and mark point A, 2 “away from the edge of the paper. Mark point B on the fold such that A-B = sleeve length +¼”.

From point B draw a perpendicular B-C whose length =⅛chest + 2½”( Please note that this is equal to  the scye depth of the bodice)  From point A draw a perpendicular line A-D such that A-D = B-C.Join D-C.

On D-C mark point E such that E-C =⅛chest.

On the line B-C Mark point F such that B-F =1”.

Join F-E.

H is the middle point of E-F.H-I is perpendicular to H-F and its length is equal to ¾”.

From the point E draw a perpendicular line E-G whose length is equal to 2”Join F-E by a smooth curved line as shown in the figure. This is front armhole curve of the sleeve.

Join F-I-E as shown in the figure 3 by a smooth curve. This is back armhole curve of the sleeve.

On the line A-D mark point L such that A-L equal to half sleeve round +1”.

Join L-This is the side line of the sleeve.

Produce Line B-A to J such that A-J =1¼”. From the point J draw a line parallel to A-D.

Draw a line K-L as shown in the figure 3.

This gives a nice finish while folding and sewing sleeve edge.

Cut along the lines B-F-I-E → E-L → L-K → K-J. Open the fold and cut front armhole curve.This is the draft of the sleeve.

In this draft I have added ½” for seams. While cutting the fabric you can increase this by ¾ “by drawing another line parallel to and ¾” away from the original side seam line. It is better to keep more seam width in case you want to loosen the garment.

Kimono sleeve nightgown with round yoke

Here are a few images which show the method of preparing the draft of kimono sleeve night gown with round yoke.

Prepare the draft of nightgown with kimono sleeve

Kimono sleeve nightgown draft

Draw lines as shown in figure 2

Figure 2

Separate round yoke from the skirt portion.

Figure 3

Place the skirt portion on another sheet of paper and spread as shown and draw the shape as shown by dotted line in figure 4

Figure 4

.

Cut on the dotted line and remove the new draft.

New draft

While cutting the fabric 1/2" extra is added along the curved edge  A-B of the yoke and curved edge of the skirt A'-B'.This is for seams.Same draft is used for the back skirt portion

Stitching

Gather the skirt portion and stitch to the yoke.The rest of the procedure is same as that of kimono sleeve nightgown.Stitch a belt of contrast colour and secure it to the middle  near the waist line at the back.

Kimono sleeve nightgown with flare

Prepare the draft of the kimono sleeve nightgown as explained HERE.

The portion of the draft which is above the line C-J is body and the portion which is below the line C-J is skirt portion.

Divide the skirt portion in to three portions by drawing lines P-Q and R-S.( Figure 1).

Cut the skirt portion along the lines in the direction Q-P and S-R till the points P and R and do not separate. (Figure 2)

Cut along the line C-J and separate skit portion from the body portion.( Figure 3)

Spread the skirt portion as shown in the figure 4 on another sheet of paper and secure them with pins.
If you want more flare you can spread them more.

Figure 4

Draw out line of the shape thus formed as shown by dotted lines. Cut the shape out. This is the new flared skirt portion. Figure 5.

Figure 5

Same  draft is used for the back skirt portion of the nightgown.
Body portion is different.While cutting the fabric an extra 1/2" is added along the lines C-J of the body as well as  to the top portion of the skirt .This is for seams.

Attach skirt body and proceed as explained HERE.
Stitch a belt of contrast colour and secure it to the middle  near the waist line at the back.

Method of sewing nightgown with Kimono sleeve

Measurements

Full length

Chest

Method of drawing draft

Figure 1 Draft

Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper.

Mark point A on the fold

On this line mark C such that A-C = ⅟₄ chest + 2”

A-B = full length + 1”( from shoulder line to hem)

Draw perpendicular lines from points A, C and B.

On the perpendicular line at A, mark points D and G such that A-D = A-C and D-G =4”.

On the perpendicular line at C, mark points E and H such that A-D =C-E and D-G =E-H.

On the perpendicular line at B Mark point F such that B-F =A-D. Produce Line B-F to O such that F-O=5”.

Join points D-E-F and G-H.

On the line E-H mark point J such that E-J = 1½”.

On the line E-F Mark point I such that E-I = 1½”.

On the line G-H mark K such that H-K= 1”.

Join I-O.

Mark P on the I-P such that P-O =1”.

Join F-P by a curved line as shown in the figure.

Join I-J-K by a curved line as shown in the figure.

On the line A-D Mark L such that A-L =⅛ chest

On the line A-B mark N such that A-N = 3” or to taste. Shape front neck by curve L-N.

On the line A-B mark point M such that A-M = 2”.Shape back neck by curve L-M.

Cut along the line G-K-J-I-P-F-B.

Cut back neck shape by cutting along the curve L-M.

Separate front and back of the draft by cutting along the line M-N-C-B.

Keep one portion which has got no markings aside. This is back draft. On the other portion the draft cut front neck shape L-N. This is the draft of the front.

Figure 2 Draft pieces

Cut draft of neck facing as shown in figure 3.I have explained HERE in detail.

Figure 3

Layout

Use the draft s thus prepared and cut pattern pieces from the fabric.(figure 4)

Figure 4

Figure 5 Pattern pieces

Stitching

Stitch the sleeve edges by folding ½” in side

Stitch neck with fitted facing as explained HERE.

Stitch sides

Stitch bottom by folding ½” inside.

You can decorate neck with embroidery.