Friday, December 18, 2009

Prepare your own bishop dress collar guide









Measurements needed

Shoulder
Chest
Sleeve length
Sleeve width
Full length of the dress.

Method of folding the paper
 

Fold a sheet of paper twice making four layers as shown in the figure


Keeping B-F on fold mark B-F= ½ shoulder +½”
B-A =½ shoulder +½”
F-H =¼ chest +1½”
B-C =B-D=1/12th chest
From the point D draw a perpendicular line such that D-E = B-C.Join C-E
A-I=1”
Mark the point G on F-H such that A-B = G-F
G-K=1+1/2”

Join shoulder slope C-I

Figure 2

Shape the neck line C-D as shown. Front and back neck depth are same.
Join H-K and produce.This line meets the curve at J.
Shape the yoke curve A-F Keeping the width of the yoke same throughout.
This curve cuts line H-K-J at L
While blocking the smocking, sleeve seam should on the line J-L
Shape the armhole. A-I-K-H

Figure 3

Cut the yoke D-J-C-I-L-F and open the fold once . We get 2 layers .They are front yoke and back yoke .

Figure 4

Keeping one portion aside which is the front, cut the other portion along the line D-F .These two portions are left back yoke and right back yoke. Mark sleeve seam line position on all the yoke pieces. (Pink lines)

Figure 5


Join the yoke pieces at shoulders with cellophane tape as shown in the figure . This is bishop dress collar guide
1 to 2 and 3 to 4 = shoulder lines
5 to 6 and 7 to 8 = front sleeve seams
9 to 10 and 11 to 12 = back sleeve seams
While cutting the fabric an extra 1/2" of extension to be made for attaching button stands ( shaded area)
After separating the yoke from the paper draft the remaining portion A-I-K-H is used as armhole shaping guide.

(Please note that the drafts are not to scale)

continued..........







Photobucket

17 comments:

Marysia said...

Hi there Vani

I posted yesterday and its disappeared.

How can I thank you enough for these wonderful instructions; you are such a talented lady and I am totally blown away by the attention to all details in your explanation of how to do this.

I have been trying to get help with this for such a long time.

Vani, you have given me the best Christmas Present ever!!

May I ask a question? How do I work out the sleeve width required to draft the pattern? I am not making for a specific child, but need to work from standard measurements. Sorry, if this is a silly question.

With warmest regards to you.
Marysia.

vani said...

We can calculate Biceps from chest measurement=1/8th chest+2½”.So sleeve width will be less than this by 3/4th “ or 1”.If you keep it loose no harm is done.you can alter it.If it is tight………… . To be on the safer side keep sleeve width more.you try the pattern using a cheap cloth.Do not smock.Just do shirring with machine and see.science it is a loose garment we need not worry about other measurements.Shoulder and chest measurements are important.That is what I feel.
with best wishes
Vani

Marysia said...

Hi there Vani,

First of all HAPPY NEW YEAR!

I have just returned home to Turkey and found your kind reply.

Thanks to your kind help, I can now get busy and draft my pattern this week; I will let you know how I get on.

Thank you again for your generosity and kindness in sharing this information with me.What a hugely talented lady you are Vani.

Regards,
Marysia.

vani said...

Hi Marysia,
I wish you also a very happy new year.I wish you a great success regarding your project.I hope it works out well.Please let me know the progress.
With best wishes
Vani

Marysia said...

Hi Vani,

I am ready to draft the bishop guide and dress following your fabulous notes.

May I ask yet another silly question of you?

For sleeve width you kindly listed the formula I could follow.

Where you say sleeve width will be less than this by 3/4 to 1". Do you mean that after I do 1/8 chest + 2 1/2 to take off another 1"........

I have now found a list of measurements in a pattern drafting book and it list upper arm measurement...............is this the bicep measurement?? If so, can I just use that measurement as it is............

Sorry for troubling you. I will get there with your kind help.

Hope you are well.
Regards,
Marysia.

vani said...

I am doing fine.Hope you are also doing fine.Biceps measurement and upper arm measurement are one and the same.Sleeve round measurement will be lesser than that of biceps .I feel you can use the measurement given in the book.

Best wishes
Vani

Marysia said...

Hi Vani

Thanks for your quick reply; you are simply terrific.

I take it then that I just use the upper arm measurement as it is and dont need to take anything off it?

Is there anyway I can receive your postal address details; I have something I would like to post to you. My email contact details are on the Country Bumpkin site under my name

Kindest regards,
Marysia.

Marysia said...

Hi there Vani

I have been working on the drafting for the bishop collar guide today but I have got stuck!

Working through it, I need to check where along F-H you plot G to complete G-K

Also, on the diagram is E, but I cant see any instructions for plotting that marking.

How far down from C to I go to plot marking J

I would be so grateful if you could clarify these markings so that I can finish the blocking guide and move onto the bishop dress pattern instructions you give.

Thank you again
Marysia.

vani said...

I have added some more explanations which I had omitted.I think you can follow it now.
Best wishes
vani

Marysia said...

Hi there Vani

Sorry to trouble you once more. Can you confirm the measurement down from C to plot J please...

The shape is looking good, so your instructions are very clear.

Kindest regards,
Marysia.

vani said...

Join H-K and produce the line .It will meet the neck curve at one point. Take it as J.I have not given any measurement for C-J.
Best wishes
vani

Marysia said...

Hi there Vani,

Thank you so much for your kind patience. I will get on with the final drafting, and let you know how I get on.

I just want to make sure that I follow your instructions perfectly.

Regards,
Marysia.

Marysia said...

Hi there Vani,

Just had to post to say
I'VE DONE IT!!

Your instructions worked beautiful and I am so pleased, I just cant tell you.

Thanks again for your wonderful patience and help. I truly appreciate it.

I would love to hear from you. Please email me if you are free to do so.

Regards, Marysia.

vani said...

Hi Marysia,
I am happy to know that you were able to do the Bishop collar guide as per my draft.I could not send email via C.B. forum. I do not know the reason.you please try to send message and give your ID so that I will able to contact you.
Beat wishes
Vani

Mahalakshmi said...

Hi Vani,
My question might look silly.But I want to know how much extra material needed for the smocking.And one more thing,this dress is a continuous one till the knee or has a joint with the collar.The photo has no joint and so my question.Sorry for the bother.PLEASE.

vani said...

Hi Mahalakshmi,
Your's is not a silly question.Since we are learning through blogs we will get many doubts.There is no cut between the body and skirt.I think you have seen my next post where I have dealt with the amount of material needed.I have mentioned in the procedure to take 2 1/2 to 3 times the draft.But my friend Marysia has stitched taking 3 1/2 times the draft.See the images which I have posted in newer posts.

amarjit said...

hi vani mam, could u please post instructions on how to do a simple cowl neck. thanks in advance.