Method of stitching a neck with fitted facing

Using these drafts cut facing pieces (figure 1)


Method of attaching facing to the Garment


Stay stitch the neck of the garment and the facing,
Stitch shoulder seams of the garment and the facing keeping the same seam allowance. Open the seams and press. (Figure 2)
Fold the lower edge of the facing by ¼” and press. Keep the facing flat on the garment, right sides together, matching the shoulder lines and the contour of the neck. Baste them together. Machine stitch on the seam line. Trim the seam by ¼”. Clip the curved edges and cut the corners a little, taking care not to cut the stitching. (Figure 3 )
Press the seams towards facing secure them by under stitching on the right side of the facimg.Turn the facing inside on the seam line such that facing is not visible from the right side and it lies flat on the garment.Press.Secure the facing against the garment with short hemming stitches Figure 4

Method of preparing facings

Place the draft of front and back of the bodice on a sheet of paper as shown in the (figure 1)step 1 and mark the neck line and shoulder lines (green dotted lines). Remove the draft. Mark the other edges of the facing curve A-B-C .This curve can be of the shape of the neck as in step 2 or different as in step 2a. .If it follows the shape of the neck the width of the facing should be same all over. Cut along the line A- B-C. (Step 3)Open the folds (Step 4) we get drafts of front neck facing, right back neck facing and left back neck facing.

Fitted facings

Fitted facing is also called shaped facing.In this method, facing is cut in the same shape of the neck. We can tell it is the duplicate of the shape of the neck. The edge that is to be stitched to the neck line has the same contour of the neck .The other edge of the facing is usually parallel to the edge to be stitched to the neck. Sometimes it can be of different shape. Almost all the types of neck can be stitched by this method. It gives a very good finish.
It is better if the facing is prepared from the same material as the garment. If the material is not wide enough pieces can be joined taking care of the grains. Seams should be opened and pressed.

Fabric tubes

There various methods by which one can decorate neck. Now a days decorating with” fabric tubes” are in fashion. Fabric tubes can be bent to take the shape of any curve (except for narrow curves) so it used in applique work for creepers Fabric tubes are used to make loops also.

Method of making Fabric tube


Cut true bias strip if the fabric 1 ½” wide. (Figure 1). Fold the strip in to half length wise. Keeping right sides together machine stitch as shown in the fig. 2, leaving ¼” seam. Thread a tapestry needle with a thick thread and knot the end. Take a stitch at the point A and secure it with one more stitch. (Fig 3) Insert the needle through the opening near the point A. (fig4) . comes through the other end. (Fig 5). Pull the thread slowly. This turns the tube inside out.

Prepare your own bishop dress collar guide continued.........

Sleeves

1 to5 =H-G. 5 to 2 = sleeve width =2½ to 3 times the curve J-J2
For distance H to G see    here    in figure 1
6 to 5 =distance H-J
3 to 6 = under sleeve length measured from arm pit to the required length
2 to 4 =1 to 6 +6 to 3. Shape the curve 6 -5 keeping armhole shape guide

Body front and back

Make four layer fold

7 to 11=H to G and 11 to 8 is 2½ times or 3 times the distance of the curve J –J’
11 to 12 =distance H-J
12 to 9 length of the dress from arm pit
Curve 12 to 11 is shaped using the armhole guide draft.
Open the fold and keep one layer for the front. Cut the other layer in the middle along the line 8 to 10.
Those two portions are right back and left back. While cutting the fabric an extra extension of 1¼” should be made at the opening (shaded portion) for button stands.

Prepare your own bishop dress collar guide

Measurements needed

Shoulder
Chest
Sleeve length
Sleeve width
Full length of the dress.

Method of folding the paper
 

Fold a sheet of paper twice making four layers as shown in the figure


Keeping B-F on fold mark B-F= ½ shoulder +½”
B-A =½ shoulder +½”
F-H =¼ chest +1½”
B-C =B-D=1/12th chest
From the point D draw a perpendicular line such that D-E = B-C.Join C-E
A-I=1”
Mark the point G on F-H such that A-B = G-F
G-K=1+1/2”

Join shoulder slope C-I

Figure 2

Shape the neck line C-D as shown. Front and back neck depth are same.
Join H-K and produce.This line meets the curve at J.
Shape the yoke curve A-F Keeping the width of the yoke same throughout.
This curve cuts line H-K-J at L
While blocking the smocking, sleeve seam should on the line J-L
Shape the armhole. A-I-K-H

Figure 3

Cut the yoke D-J-C-I-L-F and open the fold once . We get 2 layers .They are front yoke and back yoke .

Figure 4

Keeping one portion aside which is the front, cut the other portion along the line D-F .These two portions are left back yoke and right back yoke. Mark sleeve seam line position on all the yoke pieces. (Pink lines)

Figure 5


Join the yoke pieces at shoulders with cellophane tape as shown in the figure . This is bishop dress collar guide
1 to 2 and 3 to 4 = shoulder lines
5 to 6 and 7 to 8 = front sleeve seams
9 to 10 and 11 to 12 = back sleeve seams
While cutting the fabric an extra 1/2" of extension to be made for attaching button stands ( shaded area)
After separating the yoke from the paper draft the remaining portion A-I-K-H is used as armhole shaping guide.

(Please note that the drafts are not to scale)

continued..........

Stitching neck with bias flat facing

Stitch bias binding of width 1"to the neck keeping right sides together. While stitching ease the edge of the binding against the curve of the neck, at the same time stretch the other edge of the binding. Trim the seam. Clip the seam at intervals taking care not to clip the machine stitch. Turn the bias binding towards the seam and press. Stitch on the right side of the facing very close to the seam line. This is called under stitching. This holds the facing and the seam in place. Turn the facing on the seam line such that facing is not visible on the right side and it lies flat on the garment. Turn in ¼’of the other edge of the bias binding and stitch in place against the garment using small hemming stitch.