How to sew seams - Part 1

Seams are the lines of stitching which hold two pieces of fabric together. There are many types of seams. The type of seam we use depends upon the fabric.

Plain seam

This type of seam is used for firmly woven fabric that does not ravel easily. Double stitched plain seam gives added strength. If we want to open the seam to give smooth fit double stitching is done one above the other.

How to make plain seam

Keep the two pieces of the material to be joined, right sides together and make a single row of machine stitching ½” from the edge. Beginners can mark the seam line and tack before machine stitching. Make a second row of stitching 1/16” from and parallel to the first row in the seam allowance

Methods of finishing plain seam


1. Pinking
 
It is used for firmly woven fabric. After stitching the seam is trimmed with pinking shears

2. Overcasting

This is also used on firm fabric. After seam is stitched the edges of the seams are stitched together with over casting stitches by hand or the seams can be opened and overcasting is done separately.

3 Hemming

This is used on the fabric that ravels. After stitching, the seam is opened and the raw edges are turned inside a little and machine stitched.



4 False French

This method id used on sheer fabrics to get neat finish .This adds strength to the seams. After stitching, seam is opened, raw edges are turned up and brought together and hemmed by hand

5 Bound seam 


This method is used on fabric that is heavy and ravels easily. After stitching, seam is opened and the raw edges are bound separately with bias strips.

Self binding 



This method can be used for the seams that can be turned towards one side. Stitch seam .Trim one layer of seam allowance to ¼”. Turn and press the other seam allowance towards the trimmed side. Turn again over the trimmed side and stitch.

Zigzag stitched.


Stitch seams. Finish the seams with zigzag stitches placed to the edge of the seam allowance.

Seams in sheer fabrics.


Place the fabric right sides together. Stitch them together 1/8th” from the seam line with in the seam allowance. Fold and press both the layers over the stitching. Stitch close to the folded edge.>Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching.Turn again and stitch close to the edge such that the stitches should fall on the seam line. This makes almost invisible seam

Nehru shirt

 This type of shirt is usually worn with dothi  or  Pyjama.Neck is finished with stand collar or bound hem.We can call this kurtha with out kali.Looks grand with embroidery

Measurements 

Chest
Shoulder
Length
neck round


Body front and back

A-B= full length +1”
A-C=¼ chest
A-D = waist length
Draw perpendiculars from A, C, D and B
A-E =½ shoulder +¼”
C-H =¼ chest +2”. For boys add 1½”
C-G =A-E-¼”
E-F =1¼”
G-P=1” Shape armhole of scye H-P-F of body front.
P-J =1” Shape armhole of scye H-J-F of body back.
D-I is C-H -½”
B-L =C-H +2”
K-L=½”
Shape side seam H-I-K
Shape bottom curve B-K.
A-N=1/6th neck. A-O =¾”, Shape back neck curve N-O
A-M =1/6th neck + ¼”. Shape front neck curve N-M

Q-K is side slit =1/4 th of A-B +1"

Sleeves

A-I =Sleeve length +½”.
C-A =1/12th chest +½”. Draw perpendicular from C to the line A-I.
C-D =¼ chest less ½”
Join A-D. F is it’s midpoint. H is the midpoint of F-D
H-I =¾” and F-J =¾”. Shape back curve A-J-D and front curve A-F-D
E-I =1/6th chest .Join E-I and D-E.

 Stand Collar

C-D=½ neck line +¼”
E is midpoint.
Draw perpendiculars from C and D. A-C=1½” or to taste. A-C = B-D .Mark point F on D-B such that D-F =½”
Mark point G on A-B such that G-B = ¼”
Shape the curve C-E-F as shown in the figure Join F-G and produce to the point H such that H-F =A-C-¼”.
Shape the curve A –H as shown in the figure 1. In this collar front edges are straight. If you want front edges to be rounded Shape the curve A-H-G as shown in the figure 2

Method of drafting pyjama

This pyjama can be used as an indoor garment or as an outdoor garment with Kurtha. If it is worn with Kurtha, leg round is reduced..It can be stitched with fly or without fly.It is prepared with a casing at the waist to pass draw string

Measurements

Length
Seat
Bottom

Front

A-B=1/3rd seat + 1½”
A-E=Length
A-C= ¹/3rd seat
Mark point H on A-C, 1” below the midpoint of A-C.
A-H =B-I. Join H-I
Mark J such that B-J =¼ seat + 1¼”.
A-C =B-D. Join C-D
From J drop J-L perpendicular to C-D. This line intersects the line H-I at the point Q.
Mark point K, ½” below Q.
Join C-K with a deep inward curve as shown.
Mark point R such that R-J = 1¼”
Drop perpendicular from R .It meets the line H-I at the point S.
Mark point M such that S-M = 1”. Shape M-K with upward curve.
G-F= ½ leg round .Join C-F

Back

A’-B’=1/3rd seat + 1½”
A’-E’=Length
A’-C’= ¹/3rd seat
Mark point H on A’-C’, 1” below the midpoint of A’-C’.
A’-H’ =B’-I’. Join H’-I’
A’-C ‘=B’-D’ Join C’-D’
From B’ measure B’-O =¼ seat-1½”
From O drop a perpendicular to C-’D’. This line meets I’-H’ at N. Produce N-O to P such that O-P = 1½”
Join B’-P as shown in the figure..
Mark T on the line I’-H’ such that N-T =1½”
Produce D’-C’ to U such that C-’U =1½”. Join P-T-U as shown.
G’- F’ ½ leg round + ½”
Join U-F’

Right side front fly facing

Using carbon paper trace shape R-J-K-S-M-R on a sheet of paper to get the draft of the fly facing.

Left side front  fly extension

It is prepared in the same way but on a folded sheet of paper keeping J-K on the fold.

Allowances

Add 1½” on R-j-B- P and tops of fly facing and fly extension for stitching casing..
Add 1½” on F-G-F’ for bottom folding.
Add ½” on all other pattern edges for seams..
If side seam is needed cut front and back of the pyjama separately and add ½” of seam allowance.
If not place the drafts of front and back side by side matching the points BB’, DD” and DD”.

.

Romper

This is an easy fitting garment for children from 6 months to 3 years.This is the basic design.We can create many other types from this.Neck and sleeve edges can be finished with piping . collar can also be attached.Elastic of length little less than the thigh round is inserted at the bottom
Measurements needed
Chest
Full Length
Sleeve length measured from the nape of the neck
Seat
Thigh round

A-B= Full length + 1/2'’
A-D = Waist length
A-C =1/4 chest
Draw perpendiculars from A,C,D and B
A-E=1/2 shoulder+1/4”
A-F =sleeve length measured from the nape of the neck
C-H = ¼ chest +1⅟2”
Produce C-H to G such that C-G =A-F
D-J =C-H.Produce D-J to K such thatD-K =1/2 chest
D-K =B-Q Join K-Q
Mark M on the line B_Q such that B-M =⅟12th seat
Mark L on the line K-Q such that Q - L =⅟6th seat
Join   M-L. this is back leg shape.
Draw another curved line M-L Which is front leg shape  as shown in the figure. Let the mid - points of the curved line and straight line be 1” apart.
A-R =⅟12th chest +⅟4”
A-N =1”
A-O=1⅟12th chest +⅟2”
Shape front neck O-R and back neck N-R
F-P =1” Join R-P.
G-H =!”. Join P-H
Join L-H by a curved line as shown in the figure.
O-S =front opening line =⅓ chest + ⅟4”
Stitching
Finish front NECKLINE PLACKET
Join shoulders.
Finish  sleeve edges by PIPING
Stitch sides.
Join front and back of the Romper by joining along the line M-B-M.Finish thigh round by PIPING  or by attaching frills

Body measurements

I had collected these boy  measurement charts from the web.I had not noted down the address.

Jabla with overlapping front

This dress is suitable for infants.
Measurements needed
chest=18"
Length =10"

A-C=length=10”+1”
Draw perpendiculars A-B and C-D from the points A and C
A-B= ¼ chest+ 2”
A-B=C-D
Join B-D.
Mark J on B-D such that B-J =¼ Chest-1”
Join J and D by a curved line as shown.
A-E= G-F=1/12th chest and A-G= G-F=1/12th chest +1”
A-K=1½”
Draw a parallel line H-I, 2” away from line A-C
H-I is ½” less than line G-C
Shape front neck line E-G-H and back neck line A-K

Stitching
Join shoulder lines of front and back together with right sides together.Finish neck line and sleeves with piping.Stitch sides .Finish the bottom hem also with piping.Stitch snap fasteners to the front opening.

Method of stitching "High V neck"