Monday, November 22, 2010

How to sew seams - Part 1

Seams are the lines of stitching which hold two pieces of fabric together. There are many types of seams. The type of seam we use depends upon the fabric.

Plain seam

This type of seam is used for firmly woven fabric that does not ravel easily. Double stitched plain seam gives added strength. If we want to open the seam to give smooth fit double stitching is done one above the other.

How to make plain seam

Keep the two pieces of the material to be joined, right sides together and make a single row of machine stitching ½” from the edge. Beginners can mark the seam line and tack before machine stitching. Make a second row of stitching 1/16” from and parallel to the first row in the seam allowance

Methods of finishing plain seam

1. Pinking
It is used for firmly woven fabric. After stitching the seam is trimmed with pinking shears

2. Overcasting

This is also used on firm fabric. After seam is stitched the edges of the seams are stitched together with over casting stitches by hand or the seams can be opened and overcasting is done separately.

3 Hemming

This is used on the fabric that ravels. After stitching, the seam is opened and the raw edges are turned inside a little and machine stitched.

4 False French

This method id used on sheer fabrics to get neat finish .This adds strength to the seams. After stitching, seam is opened, raw edges are turned up and brought together and hemmed by hand

5 Bound seam 

This method is used on fabric that is heavy and ravels easily. After stitching, seam is opened and the raw edges are bound separately with bias strips.

Self binding 

This method can be used for the seams that can be turned towards one side. Stitch seam .Trim one layer of seam allowance to ¼”. Turn and press the other seam allowance towards the trimmed side. Turn again over the trimmed side and stitch.

Zigzag stitched.

Stitch seams. Finish the seams with zigzag stitches placed to the edge of the seam allowance.

Seams in sheer fabrics.

Place the fabric right sides together. Stitch them together 1/8th” from the seam line with in the seam allowance. Fold and press both the layers over the stitching. Stitch close to the folded edge.>Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching.Turn again and stitch close to the edge such that the stitches should fall on the seam line. This makes almost invisible seam



Anonymous said...

Just a quick note to let you know that a link to this post will be placed on CraftCrave today [23 Nov 01:00am GMT]. Thanks, Maria

banu said...

Mam your blog is amazing! The pattern which you have given for sari blouse will be correct fittinf? Also teach us smocking for frocks.

vani said...

I have given the general method.It changes from person to person.Always stitch the first garment in a cheap material,try it and make necessary changes.later on you can stitch using costly material.I will teach smocking on frocks also.

nirmala said...

hello vanigaru,
happy to see ur post again :).can you teach us princess cut saree blouse and raglan sleeves saree blouse.
thank you so much,

nirmala said...

today i have seen ur thread about drafts in indusladies.i got ur draft of princess seams from there.thank u so much.u r really so helpful,thank u!