Stand collar

This collar starts at the neckline and rises up towards the chin with no fold. Interfacing the collar keeps it upright. The front edges can either straight or rounded. It is called by different names such as Nehru collar Chinese collar etc.

C-D=½ neck line +¼”
E is mid point.
Draw perpendiculars from C and D. A-C=1½” or to taste. A-C = B-D .Mark point F on D-B such that D-F =½”
Mark point G on A-B such that G-B = ¼”
Shape the curve C-E-F as shown in the figure Join F-G and produce to the point H such that H-F =A-C-¼”.
Shape the curve A –H as shown in the figure 1. In this collar front edges are straight. If you want front edges to be rounded Shape the curve A-H-G as shown in the figure 2

Stitching

Place the paper draft of the collar on the folded piece of fabric with right sides together and cut two pieces of the collar.One is the collar and the other is the facing. Cut one more piece using interfacing. Place the two pieces of collar fabric right sides together and Place the lightweight interfacing on top and pin the layers together.
Sew the edges and top of the collar. Remove pins .Trim the corners. Turn the collar inside out. Push the corners of the collar using a thick knitting needle or with the tip of the scissors.Iron the seams. Fold the edge of one layer of the collar,which will be the facing, little bit inside the seam line and press.
Pin the other layer of the collar and the interfacing to the right side of your article of clothing. Start at one end of the neckline opening and pin the layers of the collar all the way around the neckline opening. The collar should be the same length as the neckline opening. Tuck the raw edges into the collar and press. Place the folded edge of the other layer of the collar on top of the joint making sure it just covers the joint and stitch in the ditch.

Convertible collar

Convertible collar is a pointed collar.It is worn with the neck button either fastened or unfastened.

A-B= ½ neck line of front and back +¼”.
Draw perpendiculars from A and B.
A-C =collar width=3½” or to taste.
A-C = B-D.
Mark H on B-D such that B-H =¾”
Produce C-D to E such that D-E =1 ¼”
Join H-E and produce to F such that E-F = ½”
G is midpoint of A-B.
Shape curve G-B and curve C-F as shown in the figure.

Plain open collar

Join front and back bodice at the shoulder. Measure the neck line.
A-B = half the neckline measure. Draw perpendiculars from A and B
A-C =3½” or to taste.
B-D = A-C. Join C-D.
G is midpoint of A-B
B-E = about ¾”
F-D = about ¾”
Join F-E
Draw the curve A-G-E

Rolled Peter Pan collar

This collar is made-up of a single piece. It is turned down with a rolled effect at the neck line.
Join Front and back bodice at shoulder line
Measure the neckline of front and back.
A-B = ½ neck line +¼”
Draw perpendiculars from A and B
A-C = collar width=2½”
A-C = B-D
D-F =¾”
B-E =1½”
Join E-F
Shape A-B-F and C-F as shown

Various types of flat Peter Pan collar

Method of sewing flat Peter Pan collar

Step 1

Place the shoulder lines of front and back of the bodice draft together on a sheet or paper as shown in the figure. Let Points at E coincide and points at F overlap by 1/2” .
Step 2
Trace the neck line A- E-C. Remove the Front and back draft. Draw another line A’ E’ And C’, 2” away from the neck line and parallel to the neck line A-E-C and give shape as shown in the figure.
Step 3

Add ½” seam all around and cut the draft of the collar.

Stitching

Simple and easy to follow Tutorial is here which explains the method of attaching peter pan collar

Method of cutting chudidar by preparing a bias bag (method 2)

Turn the bag in such a way seams do not fall on the portion below the knee.

Draft    is placed on the bias bag as shown in the figure and pattern pieces are cut.

The green dotted line is the stitching line on the bag,behind the draft

Practice preparing the bias bag with some waste material and then do the actual one.