Cudidar pyjama is a pyjama with fullness at the top and tightly fitted below the knee level. Length of the pyjama will be more than the actual length .There will be gathers below the calf.Chudidar goes well with Anarkali top.
Chudidar is cutting is done on bias .It can be done in two ways.
Method 1.By keeping the draft on the material in bias
Method 2. By preparing a bias bag.
Instruction for drafting
A-D =full length
D –E = for gathers =3 to 5” or to taste
E-F =I” for folding.
A-G =1⅛” for casing
A-B = 1/3 seat + 1”
C is the midpoint of B-D.
Draw perpendiculars from the points G, A, B, C, D, E and F
G-H= 1/3 seat+ 2”to 4” as per wish
G-H = A-I = B-K.
K-R =1½” to 2”
J is the midpoint of I-K
Shape the front curve H- I-J-R and back curve (red curved line) H- I- L as shown in the figure.
C-M =half of knee round + ½”
N-E =half of bottom round +½”
R-N =4” to 6” for opening
Join the curve R-M-N-O and L-M-N-O as shown on the figure
Red line is back shape of the chudidar
In this method draft is placed on the material in bias. See layout 1. Plenty of material gets wasted in this method .If the width of the material is not enough divide the draft in to 2 pieces by cutting on the dotted line P-Q ,marking point Q along the line G-F such that A-Q = 1/6th of seat + 1"and P-Q is perpendicular to A-Q. Unfold the draft .Cut the upper part on straight grain and the lower part on true bias. Add ½” seam allowance at each side along the line P-Q. in the draft. Later on stitch the two pieces together and proceed.