Monday, May 17, 2010

Chudidar pyjama Method 1



Cudidar pyjama is a pyjama with fullness at the top and tightly fitted below the knee level. Length of the pyjama will be more than the actual length .There will be gathers below the calf.Chudidar goes well with Anarkali top.

Chudidar is cutting is done on bias .It can be done in two ways.
Method 1.By keeping the draft on the material in bias
Method 2. By preparing a bias bag.

Measurements

1.Full length
2.Seat
3.Knee round
4.Bottom round

Instruction for drafting

A-D =full length
D –E = for gathers =3 to 5” or to taste
E-F =I” for folding.
A-G =1⅛” for casing
A-B = 1/3 seat + 1”
C is the midpoint of B-D.
Draw perpendiculars from the points G, A, B, C, D, E and F
G-H= 1/3 seat+ 2”to 4” as per wish
G-H = A-I = B-K.
K-R =1½” to 2”
R-L =1½”
J is the midpoint of I-K
Shape the front curve H- I-J-R and back curve (red curved line) H- I- L as shown in the figure.
C-M =half of knee round + ½”
N-E =half of bottom round +½”
R-N =4” to 6” for opening
Join the curve R-M-N-O and L-M-N-O as shown on the figure
Red line is back shape of the chudidar

Method 1.


In this method draft is placed on the material in bias. See layout 1. Plenty of material gets wasted in this method .If the width of the material is not enough divide the draft in to 2 pieces by cutting on the dotted line P-Q.in the draft Unfold the draft .Cut the upper part on straight grain and the lower part on true bias. Add ½” seam allowance at each side along the line P-Q. in the draft. Later on stitch the two pieces together and proceed.

 

Photobucket

15 comments:

asha said...

hi vani asha here, thanks for the chudithar tutorial. it was really helpful to me.

meetha h narang said...

HI vani, tried chudidar cutting, yet to stich

what should we keep in mind while stiching with lining and without lining?

meetha h narang

nirmala said...

hi vani,i have few doubts...
can we use this churidaar draft cut on bias cloth for boys also!?.
can we also use the bias bag method for them!
boys salwar is same as ladies?in some photos i have seen it....pant didnt look like pyjama ...it was more puffy!
tooo many doubts :)

vani said...

Hi neetha h narang
Both the lining and the main fabric should be cut in bias.

vani said...

Hi Nirmala,
Chudidar is an unisex pyjama.it is tightly fitted at the leg portion from knee to foot.It has got fullness at the top.Gathers will be below calf.If you want more gathers you can increase the length.

nirmala said...

thanks vani,i got it

keerthi said...

hi vani...how to stitch a patiala pant... can u help me

keerthi said...

hi vani how to stitch patiala pant

keerthi said...

hi vani plz help in stitching patiala pant

vani said...

hi keerthi
is it Patiyala salwar?

farfenflooger said...

Thank you so much for this post. I was able to stitch a perfectly fitting chudidar.

vani said...

I feel happy

MP said...

vani amma its me prema...thanking you for this beautiful service....its very useful for me...only after seeing your blog i am learning this art in the right way...amma pls continue ur service and don't care about those theft of ur posts...take care !!! don't get hurt....

Isom said...

Thank you SO much, Vani, for publishing this on the internet. I'm not Indian but have a number of friends who are. I've always loved the clothing as they're very comfortable, very feminine & modest. Many Western clothes aren't.

I bought 3 sets of matching fabric at an Indian clothing & fabric store as I have one salwar kameez already. I could get someone else to sew them for me but I prefer to do it myself as my sewing is careful & I can fit it properly for my body. I've also made clothes for myself & my family for years.

I hunted for instructions for sewing both salwar bottoms & churidar. I found another site that was pretty helpful but I like yours better! :-) I'm grateful that you've made this for us. Thank you over & over for doing this for us!!!

Isom said...

Thank you SO much, Vani, for publishing this on the internet. I'm not Indian but have a number of friends who are. I've always loved the clothing as they're very comfortable, very feminine & modest. Many Western clothes aren't.

I bought 3 sets of matching fabric at an Indian clothing & fabric store as I have one salwar kameez already. I could get someone else to sew them for me but I prefer to do it myself as my sewing is careful & I can fit it properly for my body. I've also made clothes for myself & my family for years.

I hunted for instructions for sewing both salwar bottoms & churidar. I found another site that was pretty helpful but I like yours better! :-) I'm grateful that you've made this for us. Thank you over & over for doing this for us!!!