Saturday, January 11, 2014

Method of stitching cowl neck- Mid depth cowl

Cowl is loosely draped bias folds of fabric. It can be created on front and back neckline of dresses, skirts, pants and even on armholes. It gives elegant look for the garment .There are many verities of cowls such as low cowl, high cowl, mid depth cowl.  Pleated cowl etc.

Material used for cowls should drape well. Chiffon, knitted fabric or any woven material which is supple enough to drape is suitable.

Method of sewing mid depth cowl

Prepare the front and back of the bodice block.

We have to make a few changes in the bodice block to stitch cowl neck.

Bodice front

  In Figure 1 E-P is the shoulder line. Curve P-Q is the original neck line. Q-R is the center front. O is the bust point. Draw a perpendicular line O-F from bust point to center front. Mark Point A on the shoulder line E-P from where you want Cowl neckline to drape. This is neckline starting point. Mark point B on the center front between neck and bust level. Cowl falls from point A to point B. join A-B.

Bodice back

E’-P’ is shoulder line .Curve P’-Q’ is the original back beck line. Q’-R’ is back center line. Mark point A’ on the shoulder line such that E’-A’= E-A +¼”.Mark point B’ on the center back such that B’-Q’ =1½”.
Join A’-B’. This is the new neck line of the back.

Cut along the line A-B and A-’B’ and remove the shaded portion of the draft.

Join points A and B. Draw slash line from shoulder tip E to point F. Draw another line C-D In between the lines A-B and E-F as shown in the figure 3.cut the line D-C and F-E till the shoulder line keeping the shoulder line intact. Cut the line F-O till the point O not through the point O.

Take folded sheet of paper and draw a line M-N  6” away from the short edge as shown in
 figure 4.
Sheet above the line M-N is for self-facing.
Place the new draft of the front prepared such that line A-B of the draft touches the line M-N and point B falls on the fold of the paper and secure them with pins. Center front line of the draft which is below bust level is placed on the fold of the paper and secured with pins. Spread the cut sections of the draft as shown in figure and secure them with pins. The edges of the sections which project beyond the fold of the paper are not needed.

 Fold the paper back along the line M-N  as shown in Figure 5. Cut along the dotted line as shown. Trim the edges of the sections which projects beyond the fold of paper.

Unfold the sheet of the paper along the line M-N. Trim the facing as shown. Draft for cowl front is got ( Figure 6).


Fold the fabric on true bias and place draft of front as shown in Figure 7 and cut the pattern piece.

Back of the bodice and back neck facing is cut as usual.

Bodice back

pattern pieces

pattern pieces

Finish back neck with facing.

Finish the edge of the self-facing of the cowl by turning the edge in.

 Align front and back shoulder seams keeping right sides together and secure them with running stitches.

 Fold the self-facing along the cowl line over the back neck line. Now right side of the facing will be together wrong side of the back. Pin the shoulder seam of the bodice to the shoulder seam portion of the facing. Stitch three layers together. 

Turn the facing over the seam allowance. Finish armhole with facing. Finish the hem by turning in and stitching. 

Top with cowl neck line is ready


Anonymous said...

Hi vani
Nice and interesting tutorial. This blog helps the beginners. Can u please give a tutorial of circular cut anarkali?

vani said...

it is here

Anonymous said...

Hi vani
That not a tutorial of circular cut anarkali. Thats a tutorial full flare anarkali.
And can you give a tutorial of variety types (dufferent types of collar, designer necks etc) of neckline kurtha or comeez

vani said...

Ananarkali with flare is this.

The one which I gave the address is circular cut or umbrella cut.Scroll down and see.

Anonymous said...

I got it. Thanks for currect guidence. Nice tutorial. Can u give a tutorial of different types of designer neck kurtha or comeez

Jaya said...

thank you for taking the time and making these detailed tutorials on pattern drafting. these are a big help to "want-to-sew"ers like me.

Anonymous said...

Nice tutorial. How to stitch mandarian collar?

Hawwa Shaeeb said...

hi vani
I would like to learn with you? Did you teach at home and where are you staying in bangalore?

vani said...

Sorry, I am not conducting any classes.

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kikelomo Adetula said...

Hello, please can you help with a twist knot dress tutorial? Thanks