Step frock

This frock has got 3 steps of ruffles or frills.One is attached to the waist line and the other two  are attached to the skirt portion.Skirt portion is not visible and it will be covered with ruffles .Good material is used for bodice and ruffles and ordinary material can be used for the skirt.If the frock is stitched with sheer  fabric  it looks great if satin is used for the lining of the bodice and also for the skirt portion.

A-D = full length of the frock

A-C = waist length

A-B =¼ chest

From the points A, B, C and D draw perpendiculars for the line A-D.

On the perpendicular line at A Mark point E such that A-E= ½ shoulder + ½”.

On the perpendicular at B mark G such that B-G =¼ chest +1½”

On the perpendicular at C mark I such that C-I =¼ waist + 1½”.

On the perpendicular at D mark point K such that D-K =B-G + 3”.

From the point E drop a perpendicular for the line A-E.

Let this meet the line B-G at H.

Join E-H. On this line Mark p

oint F such that E-F =1”

On the same line mark T such that H-T = 1”

On the line A-E mark P such that A-P = neck width ⅟₁₂ chest +¼” or to taste.

On the line A-D mark R such that A-R = front neck depth=⅟₁₂ chest +1”.

On the same line mark Q Such that A-Q = back neck depth=1”

Shape Q-P and R-P.

Join P-F. Shape back and front armhole curves F-G and F-T-G as shown in the figure.

Join G-I. On this line Mark J such that J-I = ½”.

Join I-K.  On this line Mark S such that S-K = ¾”

Shape D-S.

Cut the draft along the line Q-P- F –G-J-S-D.

Separate skirt from the bodice by cutting along the line C-J.

Sleeves

 

A-B=sleeve length + 2”

From A and B draw perpendiculars to line A-B

Mark D such that A-D = ¼chest+1½”

From point D drop a perpendicular. Let it meet perpendicular from B at the point C.

On D-C mark point E such that D-E= ⅟₁₂ chest + ¾”

Bisect the angle ADE by a line .Let it meet the line A-E at the point G.

Shape front and back of arm scye as shown .On line B-C mark point F such that C-F = ½”.

Join E-F

On this line mark k such that F-K = ½”

Join B-K as shown.

While cutting the fabric add ½” seam for the skit and the bodice along the curve C-J as shown in the figure2. Add extensions for the plackets (Right and left button stands) for the right and left bodice back along the line Q-C.

 

Open the fold of the skirt portion. Divide the skit portions (Front and back) in to 3 portions by drawing lines  L-M-L and O-N-O parallel to the curve J-C-J. Measure each curve. Ruffles are sewn on these lines.

 

Lay out

Bodice and ruffles or frills are cut from a good material. Skirt portion is cut with an ordinary material of the same colour as frills cover the skirt portion.

Width of the strip should be such that it covers the top seam of the frill which is just below. So the width of each strip should be equal to the distance between two lines + 1” seam for top and bottom of the strip +2” for overlapping.

Length of each strip should be equal to 2 to 2½ times the length of each curve X 2. This is for front and back of the skirt. More the length more will be the ruffles.

Stitching.

Bodice

Stay stitch the curves

Stitch plackets.

Join front and back of the bodice along the shoulder line. Finish neckline. Stitch sides. Attach sleeves.

Skirt.

Stitch sides matching the corresponding curves. Finish the hem.

Mark first curve by notches and others by pencil mark into haves and quarters.

  Finish one long edge of the strip with narrow hem. It can also be finished by piping or lace edging. Stitch the short sides together. Mark the raw edge of the strip by notches into haves and quarters. Loosen sewing machine tension and stitch two rows of basting stitches. Lower stitch should be on seam line and the other should be near the raw edge.

There are 3 steps of frills in this design.

First attach ruffles on the last curve.

Pin the strip to the curve, right sides together and matching the marking or notches done to mark the quarters and halves. The finished edge of the strip should come towards the waist line and raw edge should face the hem of the skirt as shown in the figure. Working on one section at a time, grab both bobbin threads and start pulling until the ruffle length is the same as the garment between the 2 pins. Distribute the gathers evenly and secure them with pins at places. Secure the ruffles in place by running stitch. Finally machine stitch them together. This step can be avoided if you feel comfortable with sewing with pins coming in the way. Flip the ruffle to right side top stitch.

 

 Follow the same procedure to stitch the ruffle to the middle curve. 

 

Pin the ruffle to the waist line that is first curve , keeping right sides together and matching the markings. Here the finished edge of the ruffle should face the hem. The rest of the procedure is same as before. Attach the skirt with ruffles to the bodice

Continuous band of triangles or Prairie points or Picket Fence

Folded triangles are called prairie points. These are used as edgings for the neck and sleeves of garments. It is also used in patch work and quilts. These triangles can be made singly, but it is laborious.This problem can be solved by doing continuous band of triangles. It is also called Continuous prairie point or picket fence.
First step is to calculate the width of the material required. The following formula is used to calculate the width of the fabric needed.
Height of the triangle needed x4 + ½” for seams = width of the fabric strip to be taken
If the height of the triangle needed is 1” The width of the material taken should be 4½”

 Take the strip of material of required width and length (Figure 1}.

 

Fold it into half along the length keeping wrong sides together as shown in Figure 2. Press well. Open the fold. X-Y is the fold line.

 
 On the wrong side of the material draw lines M-N and O-P parallel to the fold line X-Y and  ¼” away from the fold line, these are the seam lines.Divide the fabric above the line M-N and below the line O-P in to squares as shown in the figure 3 by drawing lines. Cut along these lines till you reach lines M-N and O-P.

 

Cut and remove the half squares that are at the ends as shown in Figure 4.I have named the squares above the line X-Y as 1,2,3,……and the squares below the line X-Y as 1b,2b.3b………….
Let us now consider square no 1 that is above the fold line
Join corner B to corner D and press. Do the same thing for all the other squares that are above the fold line.
Similarly the squares at the bottom of the fold line are folded by folding them in different direction as shown.

Now the fabric strip looks as in Figure 5

These triangles are folded again .Second fold is done in the direction as shown in the figure 6. We get small triangles on either side of the fold line X-Y
Finally third fold is done by folding along the line fold line X-Y
Each fold should be pressed well.
Secure the triangles in place by stitching along the seam line. Continues triangles

If we have to use these triangles on curves bias strip of cloth should be taken. The triangles are secured by running stitch not by machine stitch.

Method of sewing A line frock and Reversible A line frock

Prepare the draft of A line frock

A-B =length + ⅟₂”

A-C =⅟₄ chest +⅟₂”

Draw  perpendicular lines from the points A,C and B. Mark  point D on the  perpendicular line drawn from  A such that A-D =⅟₂ shoulder +⅟₄”

Mark point E on the perpendicular line drawn from the point C such that C-E =⅟₄ chest +1⅟₂”

On the perpendicular drawn from the point B mark Point J such that B-J = C-E + 2”

A-D =C-K. Join D-K.

On the line D-K mark point L such that D-L =⅟₂”

Join the points E-J. On this line Mark point I such that I-J =⅟₂”.

Join band I by a curved line as shown.

A-F = neck width=⅟₁₂ th chest +¼”

A-H = front neck depth ==⅟₁₂ th chest + ⅟₂”

A-G = back neck depth 1”

Join G-F and H-F as shown.

K-M =1”

Shape back scye L-E and front scye D-M-E as shown

Cut along the shape G-F-L-E-I-B.

Cut along the line G-B. Keep one piece aside. This is back draft.

Take the other piece and cut along the curves F-H and L-M-E. This is the front draft.
This is the draft of A line frock.
Reversible A line frock
Prepare the draft of A line frock.
We have to make some changes in the draft of the back for reversible A line frock 

Take the back draft and add an extension X-Y-Z of height 3” as shown in the figure. This can be done by cutting a separate shape and pasting it along the shoulder line.

Method of cutting fabric for  reversible A line frock

Select two fabric pieces with different designs.Call them Fabric type 1 and fabric type 2

Layout

Place the draft prepared on folded pieces of fabric and cut the pattern pieces of each type of fabric as shown in the layout.

Pattern pieces

Pattern pieces

Stitch reversible frock as explained in the following images.

Method of stitching placket open at both ends

Placket is an opening or a slit that allows room for the garment to put on. One edge of the slit is finished by facing and other by extension. Facing is also called “Single button stand. In Kannada it is called “Single Patti”. Extension is called double button stand and “double Patti “Plackets are closed by using hooks and eyes or bars, snap fasteners and buttons and button holes .Usually in ladies garments Facing is stitched to the right-hand side of the garment and extension is stitched to the left side of the garment. Facing overlaps the extension.
When snap fasteners are used the ball part of the snap is positioned on the overlap side of the placket, and the socket on the under lap.
When hooks & eyes or bars are used Hooks are stitched on the facing inside the garment and the bars or eyes are stitched on the extension.
When buttons are used buttons are stitched to the extension or under lap and the buttonholes are done on the facing.
Sari blouse has got a placket which is open at both ends.While cutting the fabric an extension of 1/4" to be added to right and left bodice along the line A-B to attach cloth strips.
  Method of stitching placket opens at both ends

Method of stitching petal sleeve

Step 1
prepare the basic plain sleeve draft (Figure 1) Step 2 Open the fold (Figure 2)


Place this on a folded sheet of paper and cut the shape. This is done as we have to cut the draft in duplicate

Figure 3 shows right and wrong side of the draft. X-Y is the mid line of the draft. A-C and B-D are the sides.

Fold and place sides A-C and B-D on to the center line X-Y as shown in the figure 4
Crease the folds and open. Mark these fold lines as E-F and G-H.
Mark a point O on the line X-Y such that Y-O = 2 to 2½” Join the points B-G and E-D as shown in the figure 4. These lines should pass through the point O.
Copy these lines on the draft below using a carbon paper.

Take one draft and cut along the line B-G. On the duplicate draft cut along the line D-E as shown in the figure 5

We get 2 pieces of the petal sleeve. Add an extra ½” to the sides for seams as shown in figure 6.

There is another method in which we get the sleeve in a single piece. Place line A-B and C-D side by side and join them with cello tape
This is the draft of petal sleeve in one piece.

Method of sewing.

While cutting the fabric mark the points A, X and G by cutting notches.

Double piece petal sleeve

Curves B-G and E-D are sleeve edges. These can be finished with matching lace or piping.See Figure 7 If the material is thin it can be finished with a fitted facing. It gives good finishing.
Curves A-E-X-G and E-X-G-C are to be attached to the armhole.

Place pieces one above the other in such a way Points E, X, G and O coincide. See Figure 8 .Fix these positions by putting a running stitch as shown in the figure. Pin Point X to the shoulder line of the bodice  Points A-and B to the sides of the bodice at the arm pit.Attach the sleeve to the armhole. Sides of the sleeve and bodice are sewn at one stretch.

Single piece petal sleeve. 

Fold the sleeve along the line CA-BD .Overlap the two edges in such a way points E-X- G of one side coincides the points E-X-G on the other side and fix them with running stitch. Sew sides of the bodice
Keeping right sides together pin the bodies to the sleeve. Pin point AC to the side seam of the armpit of the bodice and point X to the shoulder line and sew them together.See Figure 8

 If gathers are need at the top of the sleeve Puff sleeve pattern  is used to prepare the draft

kameez with overlapping bodice

Draft for this style of kameez can be prepared by using simple kameez draft.
Divide the simple kameez draft in to two portions at the waist line
Back
Place the back portion on a sheet of paper and add ½” at waist line for seams.Mark all around and cut.
Right front
Place the front left on a sheet of paper and add extension as shown in the figure. We can change the shape of the curve according to our taste Add ½” at the waist line for seams.Mark all around and cut
Left front
Place the left front on a sheet of paper .Add 1½” extension for the placket (Button stand) Add ½” at the waist line for seams . Mark all around and cut
Bottom portion of the kameez.
Bottom portion of the kameez is cut by adding ½” at the waist line.