Method of stitching petal sleeve

Step 1
prepare the basic plain sleeve draft (Figure 1) Step 2 Open the fold (Figure 2)


Place this on a folded sheet of paper and cut the shape. This is done as we have to cut the draft in duplicate

Figure 3 shows right and wrong side of the draft. X-Y is the mid line of the draft. A-C and B-D are the sides.

Fold and place sides A-C and B-D on to the center line X-Y as shown in the figure 4
Crease the folds and open. Mark these fold lines as E-F and G-H.
Mark a point O on the line X-Y such that Y-O = 2 to 2½” Join the points B-G and E-D as shown in the figure 4. These lines should pass through the point O.
Copy these lines on the draft below using a carbon paper.

Take one draft and cut along the line B-G. On the duplicate draft cut along the line D-E as shown in the figure 5

We get 2 pieces of the petal sleeve. Add an extra ½” to the sides for seams as shown in figure 6.

There is another method in which we get the sleeve in a single piece. Place line A-B and C-D side by side and join them with cello tape
This is the draft of petal sleeve in one piece.

Method of sewing.

While cutting the fabric mark the points A, X and G by cutting notches.

Double piece petal sleeve

Curves B-G and E-D are sleeve edges. These can be finished with matching lace or piping.See Figure 7 If the material is thin it can be finished with a fitted facing. It gives good finishing.
Curves A-E-X-G and E-X-G-C are to be attached to the armhole.

Place pieces one above the other in such a way Points E, X, G and O coincide. See Figure 8 .Fix these positions by putting a running stitch as shown in the figure. Pin Point X to the shoulder line of the bodice  Points A-and B to the sides of the bodice at the arm pit.Attach the sleeve to the armhole. Sides of the sleeve and bodice are sewn at one stretch.

Single piece petal sleeve. 

Fold the sleeve along the line CA-BD .Overlap the two edges in such a way points E-X- G of one side coincides the points E-X-G on the other side and fix them with running stitch. Sew sides of the bodice
Keeping right sides together pin the bodies to the sleeve. Pin point AC to the side seam of the armpit of the bodice and point X to the shoulder line and sew them together.See Figure 8

 If gathers are need at the top of the sleeve Puff sleeve pattern  is used to prepare the draft