Yoke frock

Prepare the draft of A line frock as   described earlier.  Mark point N on the line A-B such that A-N = ¼ chest -1” At the point N draw a line perpendicular to the line A-B as shown by dotted line . ( Figure 1)

 

Draft of A line frock

Cut along the dotted line dividing the draft into two portions yoke and skirt. ( Figure 2)

Place the draft pieces on another big  sheet of paper and do the following changes.( figure 3)

Skirt front

 Add an extension of N’QRB along the line N-’B keeping N-’Q=-BR = 5” or to taste. If you want more gathers you can keep more. If there is shortage of fabric you can keep less. Keep ½” more along the line O’N’ Q for seam allowance.

Skirt back

Follow the same method and add 5” or more extension along the line N’-B  and ½” seam allowance  along the line P’-N’- S.

Yoke front

 Add ½” seam allowance for the yoke front along the line N-O

Yoke back

Add ½” seam allowance for the yoke front along the line N-P and add ½” extension along the line G-N for attaching plackets (Button stands)

Cut the draft again according the new changes made.

New draft pieces

 Now you have prepared the draft of a yoke frock ( Figure 4)

Puff sleeves suits well for this frock. Or you can have sleeveless also.

Place the draft on the fabric of your choice taking care to keep the side marked “on fold” on the fold of the fabric ( Figure 5)

 

Make a slash M-N in the middle of the back skirt,at the top as shown in the figure 6

Different parts of the skirt

Stitching
Finish the slash M-N by  continuous bound placket

Finish the right side of placket of the back yoke by facing and left side of the placket by extension as explained      here.

Finish the neck with   piping  or with    bias flat facing.

To gather back and front and back skirt set the sewing machine to sew long stitches. Sew two parallel rows of long stitches ¼’ away from each other with in the seam allowance. Leave a couple of inches of thread free on both sides as shown in Figure 7

Divide and mark front and back skirt pieces in to 4 equal parts. In the same manner divide and mark front and back yoke also in to 4 equal parts .Keeping right sides together pin 4 skirt portions to 4 yoke portions as shown in the figure 8

Gently pull the two front threads, leaving the threads on the back alone (the wrong side). Gathers are formed.  Spread the gathers evenly and join front and back yoke to front and back skirt.Stitch  sides of front and back skirt together.(Figure 9)

Yoke frock

Finish the armhole with piping. Puff sleeves also suits well for this type of frock. Finish  the bottom edge of the skirt with hemming.

Cutting Chudidar on bias

When the width of the material is not enough to place the chudidar draft on bias the following method is followed.waist belt is separated from the garment.a patch is added where the material is insufficient before cutting the fabric.waist piece is cut on straight grain and remaning portion is cut on true bias.extra 1/2" is added for seams to attach the pieces.

Now cut the fabric and stitch as usual.

Double breasted A line frock- Variation 5

Prepare the draft for A line frock.
Make changes in the draft of the front as shown in the figure.
There is no change in the draft of the back.

Method of stitching A line frock with round yoke.

This frock has got two parts .One is the round yoke with facing and the other is skirt portion. Top edge of skirt portion is sandwiched between the  layers of yoke and yoke facing and stitched. Circular edge of the yoke and neck if finished with piping.
Prepare the draft as explained  here
Using the draft prepared cut yoke, yoke facing and front and back skirt pieces Mark the points X, X',H,H',Y,Y' , G and ,G' on the skirt pieces as-well as on the yoke pieces.

pattern pieces of the dress

Make a slash of 2” In the middle of the curved edge of the skirt back for opening.

Stay stitch around yokes and armsyes.

Join yoke front to yoke back at shoulders. Open the seams and press. Repeat it for yoke facing.

shoulder lines are joined

seems opened and pressed

Yoke facing

Fold the bias binding or piping in to half, width wise and press.
Place folded bias binding on the right side of the yoke along the curved edge,keeping raw edges together and stitch having a seem of 1/2" all around.

Tack piping to the neck line keeping raw edges together.Clip the curve around the yoke.

Fold the raw edges of the yoke inside and press

Piping folded back

Place the yoke facing on the yoke,keeping right sides together and matching shoulder lines and curves. Secure them with pins. Stitch them together along the back opening and neck line, 1/2' away from the raw edges as shown in the figure below. Clip the curves.

Facing placed on the yoke

Turn inside out and press. Now yoke is ready.

Finished yoke

Yoke with facing

part of the armscyes are in  the skirt portion. Finish them with piping Finish slash made in the skirt back with continuous bound placket. 

Stitch front skirt to front yoke facing keeping right side of the facing to wrong side skirt together, matching points.X andX' on the yoke to X and X’ on the skirt.with a seam of 1/2''.

In the same way stitch skirt back to left and right yoke of the back.

Skirt front

skirt back

Smooth the yoke on the facing, position piping of the yoke such that it covers the row of stitches on the skirt.

Tack in place. Stitch in ditch. (Machine stitch should fall where piping meets the yoke.)

Finish the hem by folding ½” inside.Attach press snaps or hook and eye to the plackets.

Finished frock front view

Finished frock back view

Preparing draft of A line frock with round yoke -variation 4

Prepare the draft of A line frock as explained here without extension on the shoulder line Draw new armhole

curve L-E as shown by dotted line. In this garment there is no difference between front armhole shape and back armhole shape. Curve L-E is common for front and back of the draft..

 

Produce the shoulder line F-L to L’ such that L-L’ = 1” to 1½”. Curve G-F is back neck line. Mark G’ on the line G-B such that G-G’=F-L’. Draw curve G’-L’ keeping the distance between the curve G-F and G’ L’ constant.The shape F-G-G’ L’ F is back yoke.

 Curve F-H is front neck line.Mark H’ on the line G-B such that F-L’ =H-H’

Join points H’-L’ by a curved line, such that the distance between curve H-F and H’-L’ constant.

The shape F-H-H’-L’ is front yoke.

On the draft of the front mark point X at the intersection of the curves L-E and H-L’

Separate the yoke from the skirt cutting along the curve H’-X

On the draft of the back mark point Y at the intersection of the curves L-E and G-L’

Separate the yoke from the skirt cutting along the curve G’-Y.

Add an extra strip of width ½” along the line G-G’ of the right back yoke for seams and add an extra strip of width 1” for the left back yoke for extension along the line G-G’

Add extra ½” along the curves L’- X -H’-X-’ L’ of the front yoke, curve  L'-Y-G' of the left back yoke and curve  L’-Y'-G'  of the right back yoke.

Add ½’ extra for seems along the curves X-X’ and Y-Y’ of front and back skirt.