Method of stitching Katori Blouse

Basic sari blouse draft of front and back are prepared on a folded sheet of paper. Folded sheet is cut along the fold line and the draft of the back is removed. The remaining details are drawn on the front portion.For basic sari blouse draft please refer      here.

Step 1
Mark A-B the full length of blouse + 1” on the fold line.
On this line Mark point K such that A-K = back neck depth =¹/12th chest or to taste.
Mark point L on the line A-B such that A-L =front neck depth =1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark point D on the line the line A-B such that A-D = scye depth = ¼ chest-1¼ or 1½.
For details about scye depth refer      here.
A-M = front length + ½”.
Draw perpendicular lines to the line A-B from the points A, D, M and B.
On the perpendicular line at A mark A-C = ½ shoulder + ¼ “.
On the perpendicular line at D mark point E such that D-E = ¼ chest +1½”.
On the perpendicular line at M mark point N such that M-N = D-E.
On the perpendicular line at B Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
From the point C drop a Perpendicular. It meets the line D-E at the point H.
On the line C-H mark points R such that C-R = ½” or ¾”.
Join the points G and R.
Mark point J on the line C-H such that J-H = 1”.
Mark point I on the line B-F such that I-F = ½” Join the points E and I.
Line E-I intersects the line M-N at the point O.
Join points K and G by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is back neck line.
Join points L and G by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is Front neck line.
Now cut along the line K-G-R-E-O-I-B.
Separate front and back draft by cutting along the fold line K-L-D-M-B.
Keep back draft (on which there are no markings) aside.
Step 2

Take the front draft on which neck and front scye Markings are there.
On the line D-E mark point Z such that Z-H = 1/2' to 3/4".This is for the bust measurements up to 33".For bust size more than 33" shift the point Z to towards H and continue.
S is the midpoint of D-Z.
From the points S and Z drop perpendiculars. These lines meet the line M-N at point 2 and 3. respectively. On the line S-2 mark point T such that S-T =1/8th chest -1½”.
For further details about the point T see     here.
Through the point T and on either side, draw a line parallel to the line M-N. This line cuts the line A-M. at the point 4 and the line Z-3 at the point V.
On the line A-M mark point P such that 4-P = 1”. This is for chest measurement below 36".For bust measurements 36" and above increase this measurement to 1¼” or 1½”
On the line  Z-3  mark point Q such that  V-Q = 1”.This is for chest measurement below 36".For bust measurements 36" and above increase this measurement to 1¼” or 1½”
Join P-T and T-Q.
Paste a small piece of paper of width 2” along P-X outside the line A-M.
Produce the line V-4 to U such that length of line P-T + the length of the line T-Q = length of the line V-U.
Paste a small piece of paper of width 2” along the line M-N.
Produce line 4-M to X such that 4-X = P-M.
Produce line V-3 to W such that V-W =Q-3.
Join U-X. On U-X mark point Y such that X-Y = 1”.
Join W-Y by a curved line as shown in the figure.
Produce T-2. It cuts the line W-Y at point 5. At this point take a dart of ½”.
Point 1 is the midpoint of the front neck line. L-G. Join 1 and Z by a curved line as shown in the figure.
There are three pieces in the draft. I have coloured them with different colours .Please see figure 3.

We have to separate them.
Piece no 1 is side piece.
Piece no 2 is Katora piece .
Piece no 3 is Under bust piece.

Cut front neck line along the line L-I-G.Cut along the shoulder line G-R and front scye shape R-J-E. Cut along the E-O. Cut along O-3.
Cut along the curve 1-Z-Q-V- 3. This is piece no 1 or side piece.
 To separate piece no 2 or Katora from piece no 3 or under bust piece cut along the line P-T-Q.
Cut along the line U- 4 -T-V-3-W-5- X-Y-U to get under bust piece.

Waist band

1-2 = (A-B -  A-M )=(Full length of the blouse–  Front length of the blouse) +½”.
2 to 4 = M-O (refer fig 2) -1”.
4-3 = 1 to 2 -¾ or 1”.
4 to 5 = ½”.
Join 1 and 3 by a curved line as shown.
Join 3 and 5.
Cot along 1-3-5-2-1.

Sleeves

Refer  sari blouse
While cutting the fabric take ½” extra for seams as shown in the figure 5 by dotted lines. Arrow mark shows length wise of the cloth. To get good fitting the  Katora piece  which is   coloured in green should be cut on bias as shown in the figure 5.

Stitching

 Fold the under bust piece which is coloured blue along the line T-5 and stitch ½” dart. Open the fold and press .See Figure 6 .

Place the under bust cover on the katora ,Keeping right sides together and place D’ on D, C’ on C and B’ on B . See figure 7. Stitch them together along the line D-C-B, ¼” from edge. Make small snips along the stitched edge  taking care to not cut the stitches. Open and press. See figure 7.

Keep the side piece which is coloured pink  on katora and under bust which are stitched together, keeping right sides together and Point A on A’ G on G’ and stitch ¼” away from the curved edge . Make small snips and turn the seam and press. See Figure 8

 Out of 4 waist band pieces  take 2 pieces of the belt and  stitch them together along the edge I-J and turn the seam inside fold and press. Place the belt on under bust piece and side piece which are stitched together, matching points F and F’ and H and H’. See figure 9.

This is left front of the blouse. Stitch right front also in the same manner.

Complete sewing the blouse as an ordinary sari blouse.