Bishop dress

I am very happy to show you the bishop dress stitched by my friend Marysia Teresa Paling from Turkey. She prepared draft with the help of my post “Prepare your own Bishop Collar guide “.She has made some slight changes. She has used the fabric 3½ times the distance of the curve J-J." She makes dresses for www.mirrormirrordesigns.net

Different types of high necklines

High "V" neck blouse

Sari blouse draft can be converted to high neck blouse draft by making certain changes in neck drafting. Back neck is raised a little. Different shapes can be given for the front neck.

Back

Back neck= A-G 1/12 chest
G-G’=½”
Join shoulder line G’-R and shape back neck curve A-G’

Front

A-G =1/12 chest +¼”
W-G =1¼”
A-X = neck depth = to taste
Join X-W and produce to Y such that W-Y = back neck A-G’ +½”
Draw a perpendicular at Y. Y-Z = W-G=1¼”.
Join G-Z.

Stand collar with bow or Tie stand collar

This collar suits frocks and shirt blouses. It looks nice if stitched with free flowing fabric. Interfacing if not needed
A-B = Half of neck line
Draw perpendiculars from A and B
A-E =B-F =1½”.
Join E-F and produce till C such that B-C =F-G = 15” or to taste.
Produce C-G to H such that C-G =G-H Produce B-C to D such that C-D =2”
Shape the curve F-H as shown in the figure.
Join D-H.

Stand collar

This collar starts at the neckline and rises up towards the chin with no fold. Interfacing the collar keeps it upright. The front edges can either straight or rounded. It is called by different names such as Nehru collar Chinese collar etc.

C-D=½ neck line +¼”
E is mid point.
Draw perpendiculars from C and D. A-C=1½” or to taste. A-C = B-D .Mark point F on D-B such that D-F =½”
Mark point G on A-B such that G-B = ¼”
Shape the curve C-E-F as shown in the figure Join F-G and produce to the point H such that H-F =A-C-¼”.
Shape the curve A –H as shown in the figure 1. In this collar front edges are straight. If you want front edges to be rounded Shape the curve A-H-G as shown in the figure 2

Stitching

Place the paper draft of the collar on the folded piece of fabric with right sides together and cut two pieces of the collar.One is the collar and the other is the facing. Cut one more piece using interfacing. Place the two pieces of collar fabric right sides together and Place the lightweight interfacing on top and pin the layers together.
Sew the edges and top of the collar. Remove pins .Trim the corners. Turn the collar inside out. Push the corners of the collar using a thick knitting needle or with the tip of the scissors.Iron the seams. Fold the edge of one layer of the collar,which will be the facing, little bit inside the seam line and press.
Pin the other layer of the collar and the interfacing to the right side of your article of clothing. Start at one end of the neckline opening and pin the layers of the collar all the way around the neckline opening. The collar should be the same length as the neckline opening. Tuck the raw edges into the collar and press. Place the folded edge of the other layer of the collar on top of the joint making sure it just covers the joint and stitch in the ditch.