Saturday, March 27, 2010

Method of stitching Patiala salwar

Measurements needed

1 Seat
2 Full length
3 Crotch depth=Sit on a hard chair and measure at the side from the waist to the chair seat .
or 1/4th of seat +4"
4 Leg round

Waist band

A-B=seat/2 + 1½” or to taste depending upon the fitting needed.
A-C =Seat/6 +2”.

Side panel

E-G =full length –length of the waistband +2½”.
Mark point I such that E-I = E-G – 3”.
Draw perpendiculars from E, I and G.
E-F =panel width=Leg round + 2 to 4” depending upon the built of the person.
I – J = E-F.
G-H =leg round/2 + 1”. Join F-G-and H.


K-M = F-J of the side Panel.
K-O = crotch depth - waist band length + 1”.
Draw perpendicular from K and O.
K-L = width of the material used for stitching.
O-N = K-L .Join L and N. Join M-N by curved line as shown in the figure.

prepare the draft Place the draft on the fabric as shown in the layout in Figure 2 and cut the pattern pieces. Cut kali along the line K-M and separate

Pattern pieces

Waist band -2nos
Side panels –2 no’s
Kali-4 nos


Turn in 2” of the leg round H-G-H’, and stitch sandwiching 1½” of canvas in between the folds
Take one of the side panel and attach kali on either side as shown in the figure 4. Do the same thing for the other side panel.

Fold this into half along the line E-G, keeping right sides together and stitch the curve M-N as shown in the figure 5Stitch the other leg portion also in the same manner.

Keeping right sides together join these two leg portions at the crotch line as shown in the figure 6.

Join the two pieces of the waist band. Keeping right sides together pin front crotch seam ( select any one ) to front waist band seem(select any one). and back crotch seem to back waist band seem. Attach each leg portion with the waist band by taking pleats of equal width .The pleats should start from the centre of the front portion of the waist band and extend upto the centre of the back of the waist band. The pleats of each leg portion should be facing each other.

Fold the other edge of the waste band by 1” and prepare casing for the draw string.



CraftCrave said...

Just a quick note to let you know that a link to this post will be placed on CraftCrave today [31 Mar 02:00pm GMT]. Thanks, Maria

veena said...

can u please post the drafting for collar neck kurta and also draftings for different types of collars.i'll be waiting for ur reply.

dolly said...

Hai vani, am dolly. i like ur blog alot. I appreciate ur effort to share ur knowledge with others. I started designing n stitching my dresses with ur help. My dream come true. Thanq. I wanna know how to stitch chudi pyjama.. Plz help..

vani said...

Thanks for your appreciation.I will certainly post it.

Shimla said...

hi vani,

i like your page a lot and really appreciate your service and the knowledge you share with us. by the way can you please tell whether the leg round measurements for the patiala salwar should be taken in the ankle or thighs. I'll be waiting for your reply.
Thank you...

vani said...

I have included a new image.Please see it you will understand.

Shimla said...

Thanks a lot Vani... Got it now...

N S said...

Hi Vani

I would like to get in touch with you to learn more on cutting patterns. Can you please send me your contact details to ?
I also live in Bangalore.

Thank you.

Priti said...

Hi Vani,
I am Priti, I live in Canada. I like your blog. I am learning to stitch. Can you pls explain the term 2nos in Patiala salwar.

Your blog is very helpful. I really appreciate your effort to share your knowledge with others.

kind regards,

vani said...

hi Prithi

2 nos means 2 pieces

rebma said...

wwwaoo Good tutorial :) nice friend

Priti said...

Hi Vani,

Thanks for your quick reply.
1)How much material needed for patiala (I am 5'2" & seat is 52")
2) How to lay fabric when cutting.

thank you kindly,

Priti said...

Hi Vani,

Thanks for your quick reply.
1)How much material needed for patiala (I am 5'2" & seat is 52")
2) How to lay fabric when cutting-if fabric is 45" in width.

thank you kindly,

Polina said...

thank you very much!
Polina from Russia

manjugagana2097 said...

Dear Vani,
I saw your blog and appreciate you effort. I want to stitch a patiala salwar. your blog has helped me.

Now I when i did the draft I am getting confuse with the E-F point. It says f.L-W.B +2.5". The main confusion is whether to consider the waistband length with the extra 2 inches or not (that is A-C= seat/6 +2)

Kindly help me

bujji said...

can please tell roughly how much fabric is needed to stitch a patiala pant

shaila said...

Hi vani, am shaila. I find your blog very informative and i appreciate the effort you take to share the knowledge with others.I would like to know more about attaching facings to neck of help and thanks

vani said...

I have given the method of stitching neck with fitted facing here

zakia said...

u r a great question, the pletes should face each othe in center or the sides.....cause this does make a lot of difference i believe.....

kavitha said...

hi vani,
i am kavitha. i know to stitch regular salwar. i am interested in stitching different neck designs, i.e
designing neck with bottom cloth. help me in doing such.

pari said...

hai vani....thanks alot
it helped me alot....
i have stitched a patiala....and every1 liked it very much....
i'm interested 2 know how to stich an

rajarajeswari k said...

hi mam,
wht is the difference between patiyala salwar & dhothi salwar.but these two looks very to sew dhothi there any tricks in pleats.pls explain & give us tutorial.pls help & reply.thanking u

Vani Yemula said...

hey Vani,

this really an awesome thing... i was searchng for it.. thanks a lot.. :)

Vani Yemula said...

hey vani,

this is very useful, i hv been searchng fot it.. chala chala thanks :)

Vani Yemula said...

hey vani,

this is very useful, i hv been searchng for it, chala chala thanks :)

aarzoo roshan said...

pleats comes at back side of salwar???? if yes then what is the facing direction of back pleats, i am new in sewing,.pls reply

latharenga said...

Mam, Thank you so much. Today I stitched patiala shalwar, it i came out well, but the pleats are not very close and more, is it becos I used old saree for trying it out for fist time, which has only less panna. I excluded borders as well

latharenga said...

Mam, In your blog patiala salwar you have taught is semi patiala or full patiala. How much fabric is required for both is there any difference in stiching /cutting methods.Please clarify.

muhammad jameel said...

how to buy the kurta and sherwani easily and cheap you can me ??

kavita parab said...

Thanks mam... Tried.. and could do it successfully...

Pune said...


thank you so much for patiala salwar pattern. I was looking for it for a long time.

Asha Ranga said...

hello madam
i have a doubt in simple salwar kameez
for sleeve length AC what i have to add if loose fitting is 2 - 2.5"(DF)
please inform immediately

vani said...

Your question is not correct.ln my figure A -C is not the length of the sleeve & D-F is not the width of the sleeve.please check .

Preethi Prakash said...

hello vani madam, good tutorial. easy to follow.thank you

haiptullah jhabuawala said...

heloo mam
can u please help me how to lay fabric while cutting ?

ship said...

hi vaniji,i am shipra you have explaind in very simple way,thanks for effort n support

VITHAL said...

hi madom,

can u please post the drafting for collar neck kurta and also draftings for different types of collars.i'll be waiting for ur reply.

vani said...

I have explained the method of sewing placket here
and sewing various types of collars here

padmini said...

Hi mam,
Can you please tell me how much cloth v need to stitch patiala salwar. Please reply me at your earliest convenience.

vani said...

For patiyala salwar you kneed 44" wide cloth, twice the length + 1/2 meter extra.

bhusan nagle said...

Wow!! What a wonderful information about stitching patiala salwar.
That's why patiala salwar suits and patiala salwar kameez are so famous because of patiala which is comfortable and durable in summer also.
Great Post.
Thanks for sharing.

karthika said...

Hi Vani,
thanks for your tutorial. could you please let me know how to fold the material for cutting the patiyala salwar

ponnis said...



Thanks ma.

Pavitraa Fashion said...

Nice Blog!! Very use full informarion about stitching bridal patiala salwar suits . i read your blog and follow step and stitch beautiful patiala salwar suit.
Thank You!!

Upendra Dama said...

Great post with good explanation.Really nice one on Patiala salwar fashion.

Textile Mart said...

Nice information to stitching patiala salwar suits. thanks for sharing.

Pavitraa Fashion said...

Interesting presentation. A wonderful writing as well. So lets share more and more about the amazing patiala salwar suit in future!!!.. An Impressive blog.

pavithra said...

Hi mam,
U r really doing a great job.Thanks for this site.Can u explain in detail how to make pleats for churidar bottom?whether it should face each other?can u pls post the image if possible?

Cindy Byrd said...

Hi, is it possible to print out this tutorial? I have tried twice but I keep getting a message saying this function has been disabled. It may be a problem on my end as I am not computer savvy. I look forward to making a pair(or12) for myself. Thank you, Cindy Byrd

Lalitha Sayee said...

Hi !

It is very nice and clear. Thank you very much

unnatisilks said...

Very useful post! thanks for sharing.

Vijayalakshmi Kasi said...

Very useful post! thanks for sharing.

Legallyours said...

Did you sort out how pleats face at the back? I am confused.