Measurements needed
Sleeve length
Sleeve round
Chest
Mark B-D on fold = Sleeve length +½” (Shaded portion is 1” for in turn for plain sleeve.)
D-C =1/12 Th chest+½”
Draw perpendiculars from D, C, and B
D-E =¼ chest -1”
D-E =C-F
B-J= half sleeve round + ½”
Join D-F and F-J
Divide D-F into four equal parts by points G,H and I. Draw perpendiculars from those points such that
G-K= ¼”, H-L=½” and I-M=¼”
Join the points F-K-H-M-D by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the front portion of the sleeve.
Join the points F-L-D -by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the back portion of the sleeve.
Cut the paper draft along the line B-J-F-L-M-D. Open the fold .and cut along the curved line F-K-H-M-D.
This is the draft of basic plain sleeve. Outline of the draft is traced on a fairly thick card board and a block is prepared which can be used as foundation for all other types of sleeves.
16 comments:
Hi Vani,
Just one doubt in the plain sleeve draft. Does the draft include the seam allowances or is it to be included while cutting the fabric?
Hi sunitha
seam allowance is include din the draft
hi vani,
i have a doubt, this draft of the plain sleeve is different from the sleeve draft which is given in simple kameez. kindly clarify.
hi vani,
i have a doubt, the draft in this is different from the sleeve draft given in plain kameez post. kindly clarify.
Both are correct.you follow the method which gives you good fit.there are various ways of calculating.
hello Vani,
One doubt. DE and CF is 4 and 1/2, DJ comes to 7 and 1/2. But in your figure, it seems BJ is less than CF. Could you please clarify.
in my measurement, slv round is 7 and chest is 22.
Regards,
Sharmila
B-J = 3 1/2+ 1/2=4"
C-F = 4 1/2"
B-J is smaller than C-F
Hi Vani, can you pls let me know if this plain sleeve draft can be used for boys as well. Regards Esme
liked your method of drafting.my chest is 44. i tried to do your method but there it does not show inclusive of extras seem. cos i read in the previous comments. you said it does include seem please clarify.
when it is given + some thing it means seems is included,if you want more you have to add extra.
Looking at your Kameez sleeve instructions and comparing it to this I believe you forgot to put: 1/2 sleeve round + 1/2" for BJ.
This is why in the figures BJ is indeed smaller than CF.
Thanks for Pointing out my mistake. I I have corrected it
Hi madam. Can I use this sleeve draft for kids frocks or will there be any difference in the pattern for kids?
You can use
When in body part armhole length is 1/4 of chest then we will take sleeve block width also 1/4 of chest
When in body part armhole length is 1/4 of chest then we will take sleeve block width also 1/4 of chest
Post a Comment