My trial of Bharathanatyam costume

Bharatanatyam costume

There are two commonly used styles in Bharatanatyam Costumes for women, the Skirt (Sari) Style and the Pyjama Style.  This costume is  made from Kanjeevaram silk sarees   or Dharmavaram silk sarees or art silk sarees and also from  polycot material.  Costume is designed in such a way that there is freedom of movement for the dancers. The pleats in these costumes open beautifully like fan when the dancer forms a particular posture especially arai mandi (half sitting) and muzhu mandi (full sitting). 

Pyjama style Bhatrathanatyam dress

Pyjama style costume contains the following parts.

Blouse

Pyjama- inner seam of both the legs are attached by a fabric with   pleats which open like fan while dancing

 Back piece 

 and davani or Pallu 

Blouse

Blouse is similar to sari blouse with darts.

Pyjama

Measurements

1. Pant Length- waist to ankle:

2.Waist around

3.Hip around

4.Thigh around

5.Ankle around

6.Knee length   Waist to knee point N

Pattern making

A-E is full length

Produce E to E’ such that E-E’= ½”.This is for bottom folding.

From the point A draw A-B perpendicular to the line A-E such that A-B =⅟₃ seat + 2” to 4”.

Mark point C on the line A-E such that A-C = ⅟₃ seat +1”

From the point C draw a perpendicular line C-G to the line A-E such that C-G = A-B

Produce C-G to D such that G-D =1½” to 2”.

On the line A-E mark point H such that C-H = 2”

From point H draw a line perpendicular line to A-E. On this line mark point I such that H-I =½thigh round + 1½”.

From the point E draw a perpendicular line E-F to the line A-E such that E-F = ½ ankle round +1 ½”

Produce F to F’ such that E-E’ = F-F’.Join E’-F’

Join D-I-F-F’ by a curved line. On this curved line  mark point J such that F-J = 2½ to 3½” according to the size of the costume. Make a notch at the point J. Join B-D by a curved line as shown in the figure. Using this draft as basis we will prepare other drafts.

Make three copies of the draft.

Draft for the lining. 

Draft for the lining

Open fold of the draft ,you will get the draft for the lining material( Figure 2 )

Draft of the silk portion which is stitched on the lining.

On the second copy of draft, mark point K on the line E’-F’, such that K’-F’ is ⅔ E’-F’. From point K, draw a perpendicular line to the line E’-F’. It meets the line C-D at the point L. Cut and remove the portion D-G-L-K-F-FF’-J-I-D. This is the  Draft of the silk portion stitched on the lining. While cutting the fabric ½” more is added along the line K-L and L-D.

Draft for the silk material

Draft for the silk material

On the third copy of the draft Mark point M the middle point of E-F. Join B-M .Cut and discard the portion B-C-M-F. The rest is the draft of the silk material.While cutting the materiel add 1/2" extra along the line M-B for folding. 

 Draft  for the big fan

Length of the fan P-R= Knee length( waist to knee) + 2 to 4”

  Width of the fan P-Q can be calculated  by the formula 2 X  ²²̸₇  X  distance between the points

 B and N ( Refer Figure below)

Draft for big fan

 Using these drafts  cut the fabric

Pattern pieces

Big fan

Continued in new posts.................