Half umbrella cut skirt.

Prepare the draft of the bodice as explained   here.
Prepare the  skirt as explained below.Join skirt  to the bodice

Method of sewing Magyar blouse

In Magyar sleeves are cut along with the bodice. So there is no need to join sleeve to the bodice. Magyar sleeve can be long or short. It is easy to stitch..
We can prepare the draft of the blouse with Magyar sleeves using the draft of the plain blouse.

Method

 

Arrange the draft of bodice front and back as shown in the figure.
A-B is the shoulder line of the bodice before cutting the shoulder slope. C-D is the center line of the sleeve. Arrange the drafts such that A-B and C-D are in a line .Distance between the points E and G should be equal to the distance between the points F and H.
Mark points I and J such that E-I =F-J.
Mark points K and L such that G-K =H-L.
Shape the curves I-K and J-L as shown.

Method of sewing " One shoulder dress"

Plain frock or an” A” line frock draft can be converted to one shoulder frock. Neck and arm hole is stitched with fitted facing. Interfacing can be sandwiched between the bodice and the facing to keep the shape of the bodice. We can also prepare a casing along the neck line and pass elastic through to keep the neck line in position. In place of the other shoulder spaghetti straps  can be used as support. Satin ribbon bow looks great.



Method of drafting front of the bodice.



Keep A-C on Fold. A-C = Waist length + ½”.
A-O =¼ chest-½”.
From the points A, O, and C draw perpendiculars.
A-B = ½ shoulder width + ¼”
A-N =¹/12th chest +¼” or to taste
A-I =¹/12th chest +½” or to taste
shape neck N-I as shown in the figure
O-D =¼ chest +1½”.O-D =C-E
M-E =⅛” .Join D-M.
B-G =½”. Join N-G
F-J =1”.Shape G-J-D front armhole as shown in the figure.
L is half of C-M.A dart of ⅛” is taken along the line K-L as shown in the figure.
Open the fold of back and front pattern .Now let us do the necessary changes.
Draw a line on the front of the pattern starting from the point N’ on the right shoulder line, going across the front as low as the neck depth and curving to the left armhole.
X is the midpoint of N-B.Draw a perpendicular X-Y to the line N-B it meets the neck curve at Y. Mark that point. Straps are fixed to this point.

Cutting

Back and front drafts are the same. So cut draft in duplicate. Use one for the front and other as back.

Stitching

Stitch the right shoulders together. Finish neckline with  fitted facing  sandwiching interfacing in between. If you want to pass elastic do not use the interfacing. Pass ½” wide elastic whose length is 2” less than the curve of the whole neck line and secure the elastic at the ends.Stitch the sides together. Stitch the darts, Attach the bodice to the skirt portion as usual. Prepare  spaghetti straps by using  Fabric tubes  Fix the spaghetti straps or satin ribbons at the point Y both in front and back of the bodice
I f you want to stitch an “A” line frock take the draft of the front and follow the same method.

Baby's Matinee jacket

Baby’s matinee jacket is a simple infant garment which is easy to sew.


Materials needed

Materials suitable are Cots-wool, flannel and flannelette
Matching piping

Pattern making 




Fold the paper in 2 layers and prepare the draft.
A-P = full length +½”
A-B =¼ chest –½”
Draw perpendiculars from A, B and P
A-C =½ shoulder
A-G = back neck=½”
A-H = front neck = 1½”
A-F =¹/12th chest
Join F-G and F-H with curves
Mark S on the line A-P such that P-S =1½”
A-C =B-D. Produce B-D to E such that B-E =¼ chest +1½”
C-M = Full sleeve length measured from shoulder tip to wrist +⅛”Draw a perpendicular from the point M to the line A-M.
M- N =A-B
M-U = sleeve width +½”.
M-O =½”
Join U-O with a curved line as shown.
Produce P-Q to R such that such that R-Q =1½”
Join R –E. Mark T on R-E such that R-T =1”. E-V=¾” join U-V-T as shown.
Join T-S with a curve as shown
Cut along the line O-U-V-T-S.
Cut back neck A-F.
Open the fold and cut front neck F-H

Cutting the fabric
 



Place the draft on the material as shown in layout 1 or layout 2.
Cut front opening H-S

Stitching

Finish the sleeve with matching piping. Join the sides. Over cast the seam or pink the seam and open.
Finish the curved line T-S and front opening together at one stretch with piping. Finish the neck with piping Leave extra piping on either side of the neck for tying a bow
Or you can stitch button and loops (Type 2)

Zari langa blouse aka pattu pavade aka long skirt and blouse

I have stitched these long skirt to my sister's grand daughter.