Measurements needed
Shoulder = A to B
Chest = C to D
Waist length = G to M
Waist = E to F
Sleeve width = I to J or K to L
draft of bodice
Front and back of the bodice of pavade draft is same except for the neck. It is economical to cut paper drafts and then cut the cloth. Draft should be drawn on 4 fold paper. Line 1 to 3 should be exactly on the fold. Draft of the back and front is drawn on four fold paper.
1 to 3 =length of the bodice +1/2 “,
1 to 2 = 1/8 chest +2”+1/2”, ( two and a half inches) draw perpendicular lines from 1, 2 &; 3.
1 to 6=shoulder (from nape to shoulder end, at the sleeve point) +1/4”,
1 to 7=neck width=1/12 chest+1/4”or to taste.
1 to 16 = back neck depth=2”+1/2” or to taste.
1 to 11= front neck length depth=1/8 chest or totaste .
Shape back and front neck as shown in the figure.
2 to 5 = 1/4 chest + 1” + 1/2 “.
2 to 9 = 1 to 6. Join 6 &; 9.
6 to 8= shoulder slope = ½”.Join 7 &; 8.
Shape arm hole 8 to 5. 2 to 5=3 to 4.
4 to 10 =1/2”. Join 5 and 10.
3 to 14 =1/12 chest + ½”
14 to 15 =2”+1/2” .
A dart of ¼” is taken at the point 14
Cut back draft( blue line )is cut on four folds. Back draft which is behind is separated. Front neck (green line) is cut on the remaining two folds. This will be the front bodice.
Skirt
Measurement needed for skirt
Length- length from waist to desired length.
Width- width of the skirt depends upon the gathers. 2 to 3½ times the waist measurement is suitable.
Stitching
Join shoulders. Stitch button stands. Stitch darts (½”)at the places shown in the bodice draft. Stitch armhole and neck with bias binding.
Stitch the sides of the skirt. Attach skirt to bodice distributing the pleats evenly around the waist.
