Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Method of stitching simple salwar

This salwar is a loose garment with plenty of gathers. It has got only 2 pattern pieces. I feel this type of salwar is good for small children.It is very easy to stitch


 Measurements
 Length
Seat
 Bottom round =ankle round + 5”



A – B = ½ of the width of the material or (½ seat + ½ bottom round + 1”)
A-C =crotch level=⅟₄ seat + 4”
A-E =full length + ½”
From the point C draw a line perpendicular to the line A-E and produce it to D such that
C-D =A-B.
Join B-D
On the line C-D mark point H such that D-H = 2”.
On line A-B Mark the point G such that D-H =B-G.
Join G-D by a curved line as shown in the figure 1.
From the point E draw perpendicular line E-F which is equal to half of the bottom round+ 1½” or ankle round + 5”
Join D-F.
Draw a line A’-G’’ parallel to and 2” away from A-G. (Shown by dotted line). This is for casing.

 Layout


Fold the cloth length wise first and then fold it width wise. There will be 4 layers
Place the draft thus prepared on fabric as shown in the figure 2 and cut the pattern pieces. You will get 2 leg pieces.



Stitching


 Bottom round
Take a strip of canvas of width 1½” and length equal to bottom round.Cover it with the fabric used for the garment and stitch as shown in the figure 5.





On the right side of the salwar leg piece,  place the edge X-Y of the   cloth covered canvas piece edge on the bottom line E- F- E’ of the salwar leg piece and stitch.( Figure 6)

Turn the canvas piece to the wrong side of the salwar leg piece and stitch the other edge to the salwar leg piece( figure 7)

Canvas edging can be decorated with lines or any design of your choice.
With right sides together stitch sides of each leg with one row of stitches. Stretchthe cloth by pulling
it along the direction of the line D-F and then run one more row of stitches. (Figure 8)

Turn each side right side out and keep them side by side as shown in the figure 9 and mark ” right leg front” and “left leg  front.”



 On the top of the front crotch line turn in ¼” from G to G’ and stitch as shown in the figure 10.


Turn one leg the right way out and keep other leg wrong way out. (Figure 11).


  Slide the leg that is the right way out  into the leg that is the wrong way out so that right sides are together and side seam against side seam. Pin it so that the seams match and stitch the crotch line from back till the point G in the front (Figure 12).asshown by the black line


Turn it right way.
Now we have to stitch waist.
Near the waist line of the salwar fold in ½” and press. Once again fold in 1½” and stitch all around .This is casing to pass draw string.
Insert a cloth tape through the casing. Salwar is ready to wear




 Photobucket

17 comments:

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Hobby Sewer said...

Thankyou Vani mam for this salwar tutorial.

Sreedevi said...

Thanks a lot Mam, Can I reduce A-B

vani said...

if you want you can reduce.but gathers will be less.I will post another type soon which has got gathers and it will be less bulky.

Hobby Sewer said...

I tried this simple salwar yesterday and it came out good. Thank You Vani Mam. I will try Salwar with waist piece this week.

vani said...

Glad to know that dress came out good.

tulika said...

thank
you mam. how much of the length can decreased while making a salwar
with stiched belt and gathers at crotch. pls guide....by tulika

tulika said...

thank u, pls guide the method to make a belted salwar with stitched gather at crotch.

vani said...

Please see the following post

http://artvani-vani.blogspot.in/2012/11/salwar-with-waist-piece.html

VINOD BHANSALI said...

thx vaniji.

jagruti said...

hi vaniji,
i am your fan . you really very good work like us. your tutorial is very nice, please i request that if there is book of all this tutorials then i am interested. my mail ID is jagsmileforever@yahoo.com . so pl. kindly reply me to .from your busy schedule . thanks a lot

jagruti bhansali
mumbai

vani said...

There are many books on drafting but as for as I know i there no books on sewing

jagruti said...

vaniji thx for your reply
i am telling about your tutorial notes. please make it book of it ,it will be very useful to us. thanking


jagruti bhansali

vani said...

My sisters and my children are also advising me to publish a book.It needs a lot of planning.By God's grace I feel I can do it

jagruti said...

hi vaniji
good morning,vaniji, is it possible to copy or download your tutorials ?

vani said...

Sorry you cannot.

Kala Sunder said...

Dear Vani Madam

I have been following your blog on stitching since 5-6 months. I have stitched my saree blouses with your tutorial and they have come out very nicely.

Now i want to try stitching simple salwar. Pl mail me the diagrams to my mail id ksraman1958@gmail.com

Thank you madam & regards

kala sunderRaman