Sunday, February 21, 2010
Kurthi is shorter version of simple Kameez. Usually its length reaches the hips. It can be stitched with various types of fabric. It can be stitched short or long with various types of neck and sleeves. Draft of Kurthi is same as the draft of simple kameez except for its length. The length of Kurthi is measured from the nape of neck to hip.
Angarakha style Kurthi is one such variation. It's got a specific cut to it, in which it opens from the front and overlaps to the side, and is typically tied with a hook or a dori
Method of drafting simple Kurthi
Prepare a draft by following the method of drafting Simple kameez .Shorten its length till hip-line or to taste.This is Kurthi draft.
Method of converting simple Kurthi draft to Angarakha stye Kurthi
Keep the back as it is.There is no change.
Place the draft of Kurthi front on a sheet of paper and draw the out line. Add 2”allowance outside the center front line A-B.
Change the neckline to curved V shape.as shown in figure 1
Fold the extension of the Kurthi left front (just now prepared) back on the line A-B. Place it on a folded sheet of paper such that line A-B falls on the fold of the sheet of paper. See figure 2
Draw the outline of the draft.Cut along the line and open the fold. Shape the neck curve extension the as shown in the figure by dotted line. This divides the draft into two parts-Part 1 and part 2.
Cut and remove the shaded part 2 .The remaining portion part 1 is Kurthi right front.
same as Kameez sleeves
Monday, February 15, 2010
Method of drafting Panels starting from waist line.
Refer the draft . Fig 4. Pin panel No 1 on a sheet of paper extend the line U-V on both directions to the points 5 and 6 by 3” or to taste, as shown in the above figure . Join the points 5 and 6 to the points I and I’ respectively which are the points of intersection of the panel lines to the waist line. Follow the same procedure to add flare to other side panels. For the middle panel line is extended on only one side.
Using basic Anarkali top bodice draft various other styles of Anarkali tops can be drafted .Anarkali top with panels is one of them. Even in this there are two types. In one type Panels flare from the bust line. In the other panels flare from the waist line.
Anarkali top with panels flaring from the bust line
Method of drafting
Place the draft of the front and back of bodice of Anarkali top on a paper as shown in the figure 1 Fold of the draft should fall on the fold of the sheet of paper.Trace the out line of the draft.Mark back and front shapes of armhole and neck.Remove the draft.
On the fold of the paper mark point Y such that A –Y is equal to the length of the dress. From the point Y draw a perpendicular line Y-U such that Y-U =E-G. Join U-G. Now we have to divide chest line F-D in to panels of equal width. If the chest line is not devisable equally add the reminder to the side panels. On the chest line F-D mark points P, Q and R such that such that side panels F-P =P-Q= Q-R.and the middle panel R-D = ½ Q-R. Through these points draw linesX-X', W-W', and V-V' parallel lines to the line Y-A. These lines divide the front and back of the dress into seven equal parts each. R-D, which is on the fold, is the middle panel. In this manner we can make as many panels as we want. See Figure 2 .
Transfer these lines to the fold of the paper which is below keeping carbon paper between the folds of the paper. Cut along L-K-T-F-G-U-Y-L. Separate the sheets by cutting on the fold lineY-L.Take away one sheet which is below.This is the draft for the half portion of back. On the other sheet which is on the top cut the front neck line K-M and front armhole shape T-N-F. This is half portion of the front. See Figure 3. Number the panels as shown in the figure. Numbering the panels is important as we have to stitch them together in the same order.
Panel 1, 2 and 3 are side panels of the front
Panel 4 is half of the middle panel of the front
Panel 5 is half of the middle panel of back
Panel 6, 7 and 8 are side panels of the back
Divide draft into panels by cutting along lines X-X' , W-W' and V-V' and separate the panels as
shown in the figure 4.
Method of adding flares to the side panels
Pin panel No 1 on a sheet of paper extend the line U-V on both directions to the points X and Y by 3” or to taste, as shown in the figure5 These points X and Y should be joined to the points F and P’ which are the points of intersection of the panel lines to the bust line. Cut along the outline of the shape. Follow the same procedure and add flares to remaining side panels .While cutting the fabric side panels should be cut in duplicate. One set for the right side and the other set for the left side.
Method of adding flare to the middle panel
Pin the panel 4 on to a folded sheet of paper such that the line Y-L is on the fold. Produce Y-X to A such that X-A is 3”. Join R-A.cut along the line-A-R-X’-L-D-E-Y and open the fold. This is Back middle panel .Follow the same procedure for the front middle panel 5. Cut along the line A-R-X’-M -D-E-Y . Open the fold.This is the front middle panel.See figure 6.
Add ½” seam for all the panels as shown in the Figure. Mark the seam line.
Stay stitch neckline, armscye and slant cut of the panels.It is better to Tack the panels together and then machine stitch.This prevents the panels from streching.stitch the rest of the dress as usual..