Friday, January 8, 2010

simple kameez



Measurements needed

Chest
shoulder
waist length
Full lrength
Hip
Sleeve length
Sleeve round

for taking measurements refer here

Body front and back




A-C = full length +1”
A-D =¼ chest -1”
A-E =waist length
Mark point R such that E-R = 7” (for seat line)
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, E, R and C
A-B =½ shoulders + ¼”
A-K = Neck width =1/12th chest or to taste
A-L =Back neck depth =1¾” or to taste
A-M = front neck depth 1/8th chest or to taste
D-F =¼ chest +1½” (if loose fitting is needed 2 “to 2½” can be added)
Mark point S on D-F such that D-S =A-B. Join B-S. On this line mark N such that S-N = 1½”
N-O = ¾”
Mark T on B-S such that B-T = 1”. Join K-T. Shape back neck K-L, front neck K-M as shown.
Shape front arm scye T-N-F and Back arm scye T-O-F
E-G =D-F and G-I =½”. Join F-I
From R draw a perpendicular line and mark point V on that line such that R-V =¼ seat +1½”

C-H =¼ hip +2” shape I-S-H
C-J =½” shape kameez bottom J-H
Join side  F-I-V-H.

Darts

Mark U on G-E such that U-E =1/12th chest +1/2".P-U =U-Q =1/6th chest

sleeves



A-B = Sleeve length
B-J =1½” or 1" for folding
Draw perpendiculars from A, B and J.
A-C = ¼ chest -1” . A-C =B-D. Join C-D
 Mark L on the line A-C such that A-L =1” .
Mark E on the line D-C such that E-C = ½ of A-C
B-I = ½ sleeve round + 1”
J-K=1/2"   more than B-I .
Join I-E and I-K Join E-L. G is mid- point of E-L.
H-G = 3/4 “.Draw a line  E-F perpendicular to E-C such that E-F = = 2” Join E-F-L and E-H-L. As shown

Cut the draft along the line K-T-O-F-I-V-H-J-C-R-E-D-M-L-K.Separate the sheets. Keep one aside. This is the draft of the kameez back. In the other portion cut the front neck shape K-M and front scye shape T-N-F.
Cut the sleeves draft along the line A-B-J-K-I-E -H –L-A. Open the fold .Cut the front sleeve shape E-F-L-A Draft of the sleeves is ready.

Layout




Place the paper drafts on the fabric as shown in the layout and cut the different parts of the kameez.

stitching

Stay stitch neck, arm scyes and top of the sleeves.

Stitch the back opening of required length as explained here.

Join the shoulders.

Stitch darts starting from one pointed end to other pointed end . Fasten the threads at both the ends.
Stitch the neck with flat facing or fitted facing
Pin the sleeves to the arm scye, keeping right sides together ,taking care to pin sleeve front to body front and shoulder line to the middle line of the sleeve .Tack them together easing wherever necessary. Machine stitch them.




Join the sides of sleeves and sides of the body, starting from the sleeve end and to the point where the slit starts.Length of the slit depends upon the taste of the wearer.Minimum length of the slit that one could have is from waist line to hem line,that is V-H.    Usually two lines are stitched side by side .But they should end at  point V, where the slit starts as shown in the figure Turn the slits inside and stitch. Stitch the bottom of the kameez .


Photobucket

112 comments:

grace said...

hi vani,thank you again for this post,i have few doubts in this do we use the method while stitching a kameez with deep neck on the back side say around some 9 or 10",i mean wouldn't the shoulder fall off and also the points B to T is also the same?

vani said...

To prevent wide neck lines falling away from the body stitch strap keepers inside your garment. You can also prevent neck from falling by tying them at the back by stitching fabric tubes. In my earlier post I have explained the method of making fabric tubes.

Digi Free said...

Thank you! Your blog post will be advertised on the DigiFree Craft Items search engine today (look for timestamp: 13 Jan [LA 06:22pm, NY 09:22pm] - 14 Jan [UK 02:22am, OZ 01:22pm] ).

Simi said...

Hi Vani,
Thank you for the salwar kameez draft.I have a few doubts.Is your includes seam allowance or do i need to add extra for seam allowance. Please clarify my doubts.
Thanks
Salwar

Simi said...

Hi Vani,
Thank you for the salwar kameez draft.I have some doubts. Does you draft includes seam allowance or do i need to add extra for seam allowance.Please clarify my doubts.Yhanks
Salwar.

vani said...

Hi Simi
Draft includes seam allowance.
Best wishes
vani

Simi said...

Hi Vani,
Thanks for the reply.Can you please tell me how much seam allowance I have to leave on side seams and shoulder seams.
Thanks.
Simi

vani said...

Hi, simi
In this draft seam allowance for shoulder is 1/4"and for chest it is 1/2".If you want to keep more as a precaution for alteration you have to add more.For beginners it is better yo mark seam line .

Simi said...

Thanks Vani.
Simi

Fathima Ushana said...

Hi Vani,
U inspired me a lot ! Thank you very much for sharing ur knowledge!I'm a beginner...I used readymade patterns... i cudnt achieve my size through patterns!i dnt know how to alter!
I've doubt in shaping armhole... where exactly the point "O"?U say its 3/4" from "N".I dnt know how can to put that point.Can you explain pls!

rajani said...

HI vani could you please tell me how to sew princess darts o a chudidar

rajani said...

HI vani could you please tell me how to sew princess darts o a chudidar

Durga said...

Can you post a detailed method to show how to stitch to prevent shoulder fall off the thing you explained i couldnt understand.


Thank you

Hemamalini said...

hello ma'm
visiting your blog for the first time.you have given clear instructions.i am planning to stitsh kameez.

nafisat_hizan said...

Hi Vani,as i see height on scye on back and front parts are equal according to your draft? My kameez sholder seam goes to back when i start moving in it/ What can i do?

vani said...

Hi nafisat_hizan are you talking about the finished garment?

nafisat_hizan said...

Hi Vani. Yes/ It happens when wear ready kameez. I never wore such cloths before so dont know how it should be with shoulder seam. and have known recently that indian tailors include seam allowance to draft unlike it is with Burda moden type magazins which i used fow swwing before so i seems did extra allowance and my kameez is a bit loose. May be it is the reason? Nafisa

vani said...

the draft that I have given includes seam allowance.You can make out by the + sign.

Neela said...

Hi vani,
I am new to ur site. This is very useful for a beginner like me. Today I have prepared draft for simple kameez following ur method. But I don't understand the sleeve pattern. You have not given the measurements for K and J. From where I have to take these measurements? What is sleeve round? Kindly provide me the details as soon as possible. Thanks in advance...
Regards,
Neela

vani said...

Hi Neela I had jumped one step.so you could not understand.Shaded portion is for folding.I have corrected it there.Sleeve round is sleeve width.see the post Basics in sewing.I have explained it there.

Neela said...

Thanx a lot for ur speedy reply
Regards,
Neela

Neela said...

Hi vani,
I have come across another doubt when I tried to draft a paper pattern for my 2 1/2 year old daughter. You have given E-R is 7. Is that same for her or we have to take it less?

vani said...

hi Neela
That measurement is for adults.E-R is the measurement from waist line to to hip line.you can actually measure and take that value

nafisat_hizan said...

Hi Vani. Again i have a question to you. Kameez i stitched by your draft fits me very well but climat where i live is very humid in summer and i want to make deeper armhole as my sleeve with such depth immediately gets wet. How can i change your draft for that to make wider sleeve and armhole? Nafisa

nafisat_hizan said...

Hi Vani. Again i have a question to you. Kameez i stitched by your draft fits me very well but climat where i live is very humid in summer and i want to make deeper armhole as my sleeve with such depth immediately gets wet. How can i change your draft for that to make wider sleeve and armhole? Nafisa

Subi said...

hi vani,
thx for the blog... its very useful ..... now i have a doubt about the cutting method of sleeves of the simple kameez which u have noted in the blog....... u said that E-F should be 2 inches... but can u tell me ,how far should the point F be form A-L-E line.
thanks
Subi

vani said...

Hi subi
Mark E such that E-C = ½ of A-C

Subi said...

hi vani... thx for the reply..... but still i am in confusion!!!!!!!yes i marked E which is the 1/2 of A-C...... and i got a line A-L-G-E ... then when we come to the front portion you mentioned a point 'F' no????? and u have said the E-F should be 2 inches. Vani... my question is howfar should be this F point can be marked from the A-L-G-E line....1/4 or 1/2 inches????...... sorry for bothering u again...... i would be very grateful to you for ur answer as i am getting exhausted with the sleeves problem......thx Vani
subi....

vani said...

Hi subi
I have explained still more .Now you will understand.

Subi said...

Vani..... again thx for the reply...... i have only 1 question.... where the F point to be marked??????

moni said...

Hi Vani :)

You have done a great job with the explanation...Thank you!

I didn't have any doubts before. But now i do, after your reply to Subi on March 26, 2011 9:10 PM.

In the post u say E-F = 2"
But in the reply u say E-F = 2cm

which is right????

vani said...

Draw a perpendicular line to the line D-C from the point E ,. On this line mark point F such that E-F = 2"

vani said...

Hi Moni,
It was a mistake.I have corrected it. It is 2".

Subi said...

hi Vani......
even myself also knew that it was only a mistake.... i did it wid inches itself.. thx a lot......

beena said...

Hi Vani,
Just to come out from my financial problem, I decided to learn sewing. I follow your blog "simple kameex" and made it just fine for myself except for one problem that my right side neck is bending towards the shoulder (like faling).. I just don't know what wrong I did ??? My neck is front and back both is 7and half inch and is square in shape.. I really appreciate your effort and time to share your knowledge. God bless you.

vani said...

Hi Bina
If shoulder falls make shoulder width 1/2" less.it will sit properly.

aparna said...

thanks a lotttttt vani.great job.

Sreedevi said...

Dear Vani,
Whenever I stitch my Salwar Kameez there is lots of wrinkles in the armhole side of kameez and sleeve both in front and back and the joint isn't correct in the underarm portion. If u send ur e-mail id I wiil send the picture.Please help me.

Sreedevi

Sreedevi said...

Dear Vani,
Whenever I stitch my Salwar Kameez there is lots of wrinkles in the armhole side of kameez and sleeve both in front and back and the joint isn't correct in the underarm portion. If u send ur e-mail id I wiil send the picture.Please help me.My e-mail id is pradeepsreedevi@yahoo.com

Sreedevi

Bagavath Gita said...

HEllo madam
thanks for your post.They are immensely helpful for beginners like me.Can you please post us method of simpe kameez with lining? looking forward to your post.

maths tutorial said...

Dear vani madam,
Thank u for the guidance given by ur blog.Its really very helpful. In my life time I have not even stiched a nappy but due to ur guidance I could really stich Patiala salwar for my 2 yr daughter. I am so glad and thank us once again. May god bless u and keep u in good health.

Kiran Rampure(Vasai, Thane)

Zubair said...

hi ,Vani how did U apply rite click on Ur site pls tell me i want to ad it on my site also ,pls tell me the whole procedure tc

vani said...

Google your question .You will get the answer.

faz said...

Hi Vani, I am not sure about shaping armhole... where exactly to place the point "O"?According to you, its 3/4" from "N".I can''t figure out how to place that point.Can you please explain its positioning?

I also want to make deeper armhole for more comfort. How can I alter your draft for to make the sleeve and armhole wider? Kindly reply to facilitate.

Vidya said...

Hi Vani,

I am sewing from past 8 years, but I find it difficult to sew blouses...so with your blog I was able to stitch a good blouse.. thanks, I also stay in Bangalore. I want to learn frocks and blouses stitching from you. Please mail me your address in my gmail:vidyaramesh2004@gmail.com.
Regards
Vidya

vani said...

Happy to know that you could sew a good blouse.I an not taking classes.
I am posting method of sewing frocks also.

Vidya said...

Hi

Thanks

Vidya

Sakshi Goel said...

Hi Vani,

Great work on the drafting of the salwar kamiz. I didn't know anything but was able to learn from you. May I get the permission to re-use your draft drawing for the salwar kamiz for a training manual I am creating for under privileged girls who are being taught tailoring? I will be happy to list you as the source- Sakshi Goel from Mumbai

vani said...

Hi Sakshi you can use it giving reference to my blog

Yash said...

OndouStDear Vani Mam,
I am not sure about shaping armhole... where exactly to place the point "O"?According to you, its 3/4" from "N".I can''t figure out how to place that point.Can you please explain its positioning?

I also want to make deeper armhole for more comfort. How can I alter your draft for to make the sleeve and armhole wider? Kindly reply to facilitate.
Thanking you,
Yashodhara

Yash said...

bodesce67

Yash said...

Hi Vani, I am not sure about shaping armhole... where exactly to place the point "O"?According to you, its 3/4" from "N".I can''t figure out how to place that point.Can you please explain its positioning?

I also want to make deeper armhole for more comfort. How can I alter your draft for to make the sleeve and armhole wider? Kindly reply to facilitate.

vani said...

There is no calculation for the point O.

Yash said...

Thank you, Madam.
Regards,
Yashodhara

FAIME said...

i have a doubt madam.if we add 2 to 2.5" with D-F ( D-F=1/4 chest+2.5")will the sleeve measurement change ie A-C or E_C

vani said...

Add the same measurement for A-C

Sreedevi said...

Mam

Please see the link and tell me how to stitch these types kameez

http://www.indiancinemafans.com/board/upload/north-indian-recipes-48/


http://www.india-forums.com/wallpaper/1024x768/188190-sanaya-irani-as-khushi-in-iss-pyaar-ko-kya-naam-doon.htm


http://www.india-forums.com/tv-show/752/iss-pyaar-ko-kya-naam-doon/gallery/pictures/209087-sanaya-irani-as-khushi.htm


http://subdunya.com/hindi-drama-today/star-plus-hindi-drama/iss-pyaar-ko-kya-naam-doon-3rd-may-2012-episode-244-star-plus-watch-and-download-full-episode-online/

Sreedevi said...

can u tell me how to stitch A-line salwar no gathers in the waist portion

deepa vinod said...

HI amma,
please include the slit portion also.where to add slit?

vani said...

Please read the post again .I have made some changes.

deepa vinod said...

thank you.

deepa vinod said...

plz post piping of neck with pictures

deepa vinod said...

i have a problem.. my frond neck is 7 and width 6.but when i finish stiching ,am getting it as fn 8 and width 7.50.like that.Always am making a mistake on that portion.plz help........

vani said...

Please see my post
http://artvani-vani.blogspot.in/2009/12/stitching-neck.html
I have explained the method of stitching piping for the neck/

ESve said...

Thank you very much! You have a nice blog, everything described in a good and understandable way. With your help I managed to stitch the unstitched salwar kameez I recently bought. Than you!

FAIME said...

I made all my cuttings correctly, but when I attaches the sleeves to the body..i dont know why I get extra cloth on the body part
ie..EFLA (sleeves front)does not come equally with TNF (front arm scye) while stitching.
Similarly in case of back too..
Hope you could understand my problem and help me

FAIME said...

Sorry madam, I dont know how I was mistaken AD as 1/4 chest+ 1".

Supriya Bhave said...

thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with so many of us. god bless the person who inspired you to make a blog

Supriya Bhave said...

thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with so many of us. god bless the person who inspired you to make a blog

Nandhini said...

Hi vani
i like ur blog very much
plz give me a tip on how to stitch cotton salwar kameez without side cut open

Shyamali Biswas said...


Hi Vani, the draft of simple kameez is very helpful. I wish to have detail draft (as simple kameez) for A line frock.

Shyamali Biswas said...

Hi Vani, The draft foe simple kameez is very clear. I would like to see a detail draft (like the simple kameez) for A-line frock.

vani said...

Hi Shamali
Please see the right hand side of my blog.you will find tutorial for A line frock

sharmila said...

Thank you for the tutorial. I stitched both salwar with waist band and A line kurthi for my daughter (8yrs). I have a problem with kameez , the arm scye is exactly fitting to her underarms. I want to increase it . how do I do it? Kindly help me.

vani said...

Hi Sharmila
Increase the scye depth by 1/4"

sharmila said...

thank you madam. If you are knitting and crocheting , please do put up tutorials of it.

Saiqah said...

Hi vani I have sewed a kameez but my front neck goes back I hope you can help.. Thank you

Suchetha Santhosh said...

Hi vani,
What is the seam allowance here?quite confused ...

vani said...

usually while drawing
the raft 1/2" seam allowance is kept. While cutting the fabric you can keep more if you want to loosen it latteron.

Ismail said...

can this kameez be stitched without any side or back opening??? seam allowance u said in shoulder I understood but in chest means where??? chest means is it in side seams??????

Ragini Singh said...

I love reading through your blog. I wanted to leave a little comment to support you and wish you a good continuation.
Wishing you the best of luck for all your blogging efforts.
Salwar Kameez

PRIdesigned - The designer people said...

Vaniamma.. can you please post princess cut kameez?
extreme thankful to you for leading me to the world of stitching which was a herculian task for me
work and nature is a blessing to many..God Bless u
your good

asheswaran said...

Hi vani mam i wanted to know how to stitch a slit in kameez with pictures. I find it very difficult to stitch

vani said...

Hi
asheswarn \Answer is here.

http://artvani-vani.blogspot.in/2010/01/simple-kameez.html

huma yaseen said...

hi vani..your blog is very helpful
im trying you kameez draft. can you please tell me the size of A-D in inches. my chest size is 18"

Bagavathi Geetha Ramasubramanian said...

Dear Vani Madam, It is nice to see a person sharing knowledge with others unconditionally. Rare to see such people. God Bless You. The draft you put for simple kameez, can it be printed for my ready usage?

R. Geetha

Bagavathi Geetha Ramasubramanian said...

Great Job done. Generous enough to share knowledge. God Bless you.
Madam How can I print the draft of the simple salwar Kameez?

hetal9977 said...

dress me loosing kitna rakhana hai
for example 40 chest + 2+1/2+(1+1/2 loosing )

Shrinidhi said...

Thank You so much Mam, it is a wonderful blog for the stitching beginners

HAve a doubt - what is seat line? how to measure that?

Dart - how much the sides should me measured?

Thanks in advance

Regards
Ramya

Esmeralda Flor Monteiro said...

Hi Vani, how r u, I stitched a dress on the basis of your tutorial of simple Kameez it was excellent except for the waist dart it was near bust point. Now I have a question I purchased a material that has a border along the selveage side how do I place the draft on the material can you pls help me. Sorry for the trouble. Regards Esme

shaheenam said...

Hi vani, why do we add 1.5" to chest size n 2" to hip measurement?
Thanks
Shaheena

vani said...

If you want good fitting near chest you add 1 and 1/2". if you want loose fitting you can add more.If it is tight near the hip it will not be comfortable hence 2" ease has been added.

Kavita Yadav said...

hi vani ..your blog is very useful..i just wanted to know how will we adjust shoulder width witnrespect to ....in ladis blouses and in suit shuolders fall because of wide neck ...can u give measurement of shoulder and neck width

nafisat_hizan said...

Hello mam. Could you tell how much is the seam allowance for attaching sleeves?

vani said...

1/2 " seam allowance

a_g said...

Hello Mam, can you please tell can we alter the suit's neck again after it has already stitched.

vani said...

if you want to make the neck bigger remove the stitches carefully and draw the neckline again and stitch.
If you want to make it smaller add some patches and make it smaller .

vidyaprasad said...

Dear madam ,

Although I do not stitch myself, i some times feel that some of my tailored suits give me a tight feeling shoulder to shloulder line. what might have gone wrong in the stitching . further when I sit, the front of the neck gets pulled back and gives a very uncomfortable feeling. how can it be set right



Vidya

vani said...

mostly your shoulder measurement is wrong

Lakshmi R said...

Hi Madam thank you for such a good lesson and i have problem with my shoulder measurement pls do guide me how to take shoulder measurement and is there any difference in body and dress measurement of shoulder.
My shoulder measurement is 16 CMS.

Lakshmi V S said...

hello Vani madam,
I have one problem. My salwar top always gets pulled backwards and I have to pull it to the front near the neck.neck deep is around 3 or 4 inches.what is the problem can you please solve. my mail id is laks911@gmail.com. I am also from Bangalore. Thank you in advance

Lakshmi V S said...

Hello Vani madam,
My kameez always gets pulled backwards. I have to pull it near shoulder to the front. What is the problem. How can it be solvedis the armhole point from shoulder at back the problem

Hamida Kotadia said...

Hello vani mam
I wish ti knw if at all there is a connection between neck deep and shoulder width. If I am making deeper necks, do I have to make any changes to the shoulder width n why?

Hamida Kotadia said...

Is there a connection between shoulder width and neck depth?

vani said...

for deep neck keep shoulder width half an inch less

Unknown said...

My tailor has stitched a square neck that is cut too low for my kurta :( Can it be fixed in any way? It already has piping.

Unknown said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
vani said...

Attach patches of the cloth of the pyjama to he lower two corners of the square neck meeting at the center.Now it will be sweetheart neck.You can cut the cloth from the Nefa or waist
piece of the pyjama and you can put a patch of a different material as it does not show.

Unknown said...

Thank you. I will try this.

Usha Nagarajan said...

Madam when the chest measurement is 42 what will be the arm hole depth i.e. A - D. WOULDNT 9.5" be too big. Pl clarify.

vani said...

Please see this post. I have explained about scydepth.

Anu paul l said...

When i stitch kameez for my daughter the front neck portion goes backwards after she wears it for sometime. Why is it so. Pl help