Friday, October 15, 2010

Nehru shirt

 This type of shirt is usually worn with dothi  or  Pyjama.Neck is finished with stand collar or bound hem.We can call this kurtha with out kali.Looks grand with embroidery

Measurements 

Chest
Shoulder
Length
neck round


Body front and back

A-B= full length +1”
A-C=¼ chest
A-D = waist length
Draw perpendiculars from A, C, D and B
A-E =½ shoulder +¼”
C-H =¼ chest +2”. For boys add 1½”
C-G =A-E-¼”
E-F =1¼”
G-P=1” Shape armhole of scye H-P-F of body front.
P-J =1” Shape armhole of scye H-J-F of body back.
D-I is C-H -½”
B-L =C-H +2”
K-L=½”
Shape side seam H-I-K
Shape bottom curve B-K.
A-N=1/6th neck. A-O =¾”, Shape back neck curve N-O
A-M =1/6th neck + ¼”. Shape front neck curve N-M
Q-K is side slit =1/4 th of A-B +1"

Sleeves

A-I =Sleeve length +½”.
C-A =1/12th chest +½”. Draw perpendicular from C to the line A-I.
C-D =¼ chest less ½”
Join A-D. F is it’s midpoint. H is the midpoint of F-D
H-I =¾” and F-J =¾”. Shape back curve A-J-D and front curve A-F-D
E-I =1/6th chest .Join E-I and D-E.

 Stand Collar

C-D=½ neck line +¼”
E is midpoint.
Draw perpendiculars from C and D. A-C=1½” or to taste. A-C = B-D .Mark point F on D-B such that D-F =½”
Mark point G on A-B such that G-B = ¼”
Shape the curve C-E-F as shown in the figure Join F-G and produce to the point H such that H-F =A-C-¼”.
Shape the curve A –H as shown in the figure 1. In this collar front edges are straight. If you want front edges to be rounded Shape the curve A-H-G as shown in the figure 2


Photobucket

23 comments:

nirmala said...

hello vanigaru,thank you for kurta draft.i will try to stitch it for my son.he is 6 yr old.
regards
nirmala

saba said...

hi vani,
thanks for nehru shirt draft.can you please post the draft for 32 kali kurta.i am looking forward to hear from you soon.
thanks
saba

maybe said...

I'm appreciate your writing skill.Please keep on working hard.^^

Rupal said...

Dear Vani,

You are very talented! Thank you for such clear instructions that anyone can work with. Can you tell me if you have the method on how to measure bodice and draft a pattern with the measurements for a saree blouse? I want to make one for myself and haven't found great instructions as yours! Any help is appreciated, thank you!

vani said...

Hi Rupal,
I have posted it already please see
http://artvani-vani.blogspot.com/2010/03/method-of-stitching-sari-blouse.html

raje said...

Dear Vani mam, I have a doubt normally in men garments they say no need to differentiate the front and back arm hole how far its correct and in the draft u hv differentiated front and the back. Its highly appreciated my doubt is cleared.
Thanks
Raji

raje said...

Dear Vani mam, I have a doubt normally in men garments they say no need to differentiate the front and back arm hole how far its correct and in the draft u hv differentiated front and the back. Its highly appreciated my doubt is cleared.
Thanks
Raji

vani said...

even in men there is difference in front and back of armhole shape

raje said...

Thanks for clearing doubt.

Jawani said...

I was searching for a draft pattern of the Nehru Shirt and came across your blog. Now I'm so excited to see the many patterns you have put and I look forward to trying out many. Thanks for taking the time and also for sharing your knowledge.

taurean said...

HI Vani,

Could you please explain what does it mean by neckline?...it says CD = 1/2 neckline + 1/4 "...

vani said...

hi taurean

After joining the shoulders you have to measure the curve O to N and to M that is 1/2 neck line.I am referring to the draft of this post.

Rashmi Kumar said...

Hello Vani,

Thank you so much for inspiring me to learn stitching. Can you also post " Method of stitching Men's kurta " please ....

Rashmi Kumar said...

Thank u Thank u Thank u ssssssssoooooooooooooooooooo much....

Murtaza Hathiwala said...

Oh my God collar was always been a challenge for me until I came across your this post. I tried today on rough cloth for my daughter and it so easy and perfect did it on first attempt now I am confident to do it again on actual cloth and gonna do it tomorrow.


Thank you so very much Vani ji I also appreciate if you would shoot some videos for how to sew other things you have patterns on your list.Videos are much easier :)

Thanks once again.

vani said...

All are busy in my house.There is no one to help me to take videos.I have posted a few with the help of my grand son.He has grown up and busy with studies!

NoodleSoup!Chan... said...

thank you for such an easy to follow tutorial. :) i have one question though: do I have to add seam allowandes to the pattern or is that already included in your instructions?

vani said...

seam allowances are included .

NoodleSoup!Chan... said...

how large is it? 1/4 of an inch?

vani said...

usually 1/2" while joining sleeve to armhole 1/4"

Sarita Ulhas Patil. said...

Hi vani..I love your blog. I have a query. I am new to stitching and I would like to know how to make a dress fit properly at shoulders. My kurta's seem to be falling down at shoulder..plz help

shabana tabasum said...

hello vani,

Can you please post a tutorial on men's kurta.

Thanks

shabana tabasum said...

Hello vani,

Can you please a tutorial on mens kurta with the pocket.
thanks
shabana