Thursday, October 14, 2010

Method of drafting pyjama

This pyjama can be used as an indoor garment or as an outdoor garment with Kurtha. If it is worn with Kurtha, leg round is reduced..It can be stitched with fly or without fly.It is prepared with a casing at the waist to pass draw string

Measurements

Length
Seat
Bottom

Front

A-B=1/3rd seat + 1½”
A-E=Length
A-C= ¹/3rd seat
Mark point H on A-C, 1” below the midpoint of A-C.
A-H =B-I. Join H-I
Mark J such that B-J =¼ seat + 1¼”.
A-C =B-D. Join C-D
From J drop J-L perpendicular to C-D. This line intersects the line H-I at the point Q.
Mark point K, ½” below Q.
Join C-K with a deep inward curve as shown.
Mark point R such that R-J = 1¼”
Drop perpendicular from R .It meets the line H-I at the point S.
Mark point M such that S-M = 1”. Shape M-K with upward curve.
G-F= ½ leg round .Join C-F

Back

A’-B’=1/3rd seat + 1½”
A’-E’=Length
A’-C’= ¹/3rd seat
Mark point H on A’-C’, 1” below the midpoint of A’-C’.
A’-H’ =B’-I’. Join H’-I’
A’-C ‘=B’-D’ Join C’-D’
From B’ measure B’-O =¼ seat-1½”
From O drop a perpendicular to C-’D’. This line meets I’-H’ at N. Produce N-O to P such that O-P = 1½”
Join B’-P as shown in the figure..
Mark T on the line I’-H’ such that N-T =1½”
Produce D’-C’ to U such that C-’U =1½”. Join P-T-U as shown.
G’- F’ ½ leg round + ½”
Join U-F’

Right side front fly facing

Using carbon paper trace shape R-J-K-S-M-R on a sheet of paper to get the draft of the fly facing.

Left side front  fly extension

It is prepared in the same way but on a folded sheet of paper keeping J-K on the fold.

Allowances

Add 1½” on R-j-B- P and tops of fly facing and fly extension for stitching casing..
Add 1½” on F-G-F’ for bottom folding.
Add ½” on all other pattern edges for seams..
If side seam is needed cut front and back of the pyjama separately and add ½” of seam allowance.
If not place the drafts of front and back side by side matching the points BB’, DD” and DD”.

Photobucket.

25 comments:

simi said...

Hi Vani,
Thanks for the pyjama draft.How do I make it without the fly.Do I need to make any changes in the draft.Please let me know.
Thanks
Simi

vani said...

Cut along the curve C-K-Q-J omitting the fly.

nirmala said...

thank you soooo much vani.god bless you.you give such nice explanation.it is helping us so much.thank you.
nirmala

Viji said...

Dear Vani,
Thanks for the white cushion and the pyjama kurtha set draft. As always both looks fantastic.

Thanks Viji.

simi said...

Thank You for the reply.I am going to make one.
Simi

Vijiskitchen said...

Hi Vani. My first visit your blog.
I like it. It is nice and very useful..

I searched the sari box how to make tray, but it did't open.
can u send me the site details or link.

thanks vani. I keep following.
www.vijisvegkitchen.blogspot.com
www.vijiscreation.blogspot.com

vani said...

My craft blog URL is http://creativeart-craftlover.blogspot.com/

If you just click crafts on the blog menu it will open

yasmeen begum said...

hi,vani,I just love your blog at first visit it self .
will you please tell me how to cut and sew kali dar kameez.
Thank You.

kamaraj duraisamy said...

Hello Madam,

can you please let us know how to cut for children's dhoti salwar dress.

kamaraj duraisamy said...

Hello Madam,

Can you please let know how to cut and stich for chilren's dhoti salwar.

kamaraj duraisamy said...

Hello madam,

Can you please teach us how to cut and stich for children's dhoti salwar.

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Vani Man Can u pls let me know if d pyjama tutorials is the same for children

vani said...

Method is same for children

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Thanks Vani, God bless you. Regards Esme

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Hi Vani, I would like some clarification from you i.e in the pyjama draft (Back)you mentioned that from B' measure B'-O = 1/4 Seat - (minus) One and a Half inch whereas for the Front you mentioned that B-J = 1/4 Seat + (plus) One and a Quarter inch let me know if this is ok sorry for the inconvenience caused.pls do reply at the earliest. Regards Esme

vani said...

It is correct

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Thanks Vani for your reply. I asked you this cos I had already cut the material and after tacking the pyjama i found that the waist was looking small now that you confirmed that the back is minus 1 1/2" I shall proceed & complete it. Now let me know how many inches should the elastic be. Measurements are Waist-19 & Hips -22 pls do reply. Regards Esme

vani said...

keep the length of the elastic 1½” to 2" less than the actual measurement.This depends on the elasticity of the elastic you use.

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Thanks Vani . God bless you
regards Esme

Esmeralda Monteiro said...

Thanks Vani the pyjams I stitched were excellent. God bless you for giving us a teacher like you
pls let me know how to cut the top for a boy and girl (Night suit)
Regards Esme

Ruchi Bali said...

hi vani how do we measure SEAT pls let me know just confused? regard

vani said...

please see here . Hip and seat are one and the same

http://artvani-vani.blogspot.in/2009/11/basics-in-sewing-taking-body.html

Sumaira Khan said...

Hi Vani,how to make this a flat front back elastic waistband

Sumaira Khan said...

Hi,dear Vani how can I make it with half elastic waistband.

Samira said...

Hello Mam..

I drafted the pyjama as per your instructions but when I came on the sewing part, I got confused with the back part of the pyjamas. Couldn't understand why point P should be raised up. Besides this the Points P-T-U were very deep due to which the seams that should have come at sides came behind. Can you please help where did I go wrong..