Monday, March 22, 2010

Method of stitching sari blouse

Sari blouse is worn along with a sari, as its name suggests. As soon as a sari is bought matching blouse is stitched. Blouse can be of the colour of the border of the sari or the colour of body of the sari. People who are short it is advisable to wear the blouse that matches the body of the sari. Contrast colour blouses can be worn along with plain sari. Blouse with cute prints looks good with a plain sari. Sari blouses should be created with a full opening either in the front or in the back.
There are many varieties of blouses. They may have long or short sleeves or sleeveless and the blouse length can vary from very short to waist length with varieties of necklines and back patterns.
Sari blouse is a tight fitting garment. It should be custom made. I have explained here the basic method of drafting a sari blouse. It is advisable to prepare a paper draft and then the fabric is cut. A trial blouse is stitched first with a cheap material. There might be some wrinkles here and there which can be corrected in the paper draft while stitching the next blouse. The difficult part in stitching sari blouse is attaching the sleeves to the body. I feel it is better to attach the sleeves to the body with running stitch. Stitch the sides of sleeves and sides of the body also with running stitch. Wear the blouse and check for any wrinkles. Corrections can be made at this point. When you are satisfied with the fitting machine stitch the blouse. Thus the blouse draft can be standardized

Measurements needed
Full length of the blouse
Sleeve length
Sleeve round
Front length-Measured   from shoulder along the highest point of bust to where bra  cup  ends.

For taking body measurements please refer    here    and also the figure  1.

A to B= front length + ½”.
A to C = ½ shoulder + ¼”.
On the line A-B mark D such that A-D =¼ chest -1¼” or 1½”.
A-D is called scye depth. It varies with chest measurement. It can be calculated using the chest measurement.It can also be measured directly on the body. It is measured from the nape of the neck downwards to a line that joins armpits. refer  Figure 1

Scye depth for various breast measurements

28” to 30” =¼ chest-¾’ to 1”
31” to 33” =¼ chest-1” to 1¼”
34” to 36” = ¼ chest-1½” to 2”
37 “ to 39” = ¼ chest- 2¼” to 2¾”
40 to 42 = ¼ chest-3” to 3½”

Draw perpendicular lines from the points D and B to the line A-B.
On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark H on A-B such that A-H =neck depth =1/8th chest or to taste.
Shape front neck curve H-G.
Mark D-E=¼ chest +1 +1/2".
Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
Produce D-E to K such that E-K=. ½”.
Mark L on B-F such that L-F =½’
Join K-L.
On the line D-E mark point I such that D-I = ½” less than A-C.
Join I-C .On the line I-C mark point R such that C-R =½” or ¾”. Join G-R.
On the line I-C mark a point J such that I-J =1”.
Shape the scye round R-J-E-K.
On the line D-E mark a point S such that D-S =1/12th chest +¾”.
On the line A-B mark point M such that B-M =1”.Join M-L by a curved line as shown in the figure.
Drop a perpendicular from the point S. This line meets the curved line M-L at P. On this line Mark point T which is the bust point It can be marked in two ways.

Method 1

Mark T such that distance S-T=1/8th chest-1½”.

Method 2

Actual bust length is measured from the shoulder line to the highest point of the bust. Mark T along the line U-T passing through S such that U-T is equal to is the bust length.


All the darts should point towards the bust point T and end 1/2"  away from T.
Mark N on the line A-B such that D-N =S-T. Take ½” or ¾” dart
At point P a dart of 1¼” to 2” dart of required length is taken
On the line K-L mark a point O such that O-L = 1” take a dart of ¾” wide and of required length.
At the point J take a dart of ½” wide of required length.


U-V= Full length of the blouse –Front length +½”.
V-W =B to F -1½”( size of the dart taken).
W –X =U-V -1”.
Shape the curve U-X identical to the curve M-L.
Y-W= ½”.
Join X-Y..

A-B =Full length of the blouse +1”
A-D is scye depth = same as scye depth of front the blouse.
Draw perpendiculars from A,D and B.
A-C= ½ shoulder + ¼”.
Mark D-E=¼ chest +1½”.
Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
I- F=½” .Join E-I.
On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark K on A-B such that A-K = Back neck depth =1/12th chest or to taste.
Shape back neck curve K-G.
On the line D-E mark H such that D-H = A-C. Join H-C.
On the line H-C mark a point R such that C-R =1”.
Shape the Back scye round R-E.
B-L=1/12th chest +½”. A dart L-M of ½” width and of required length is taken here.


A-B= sleeve length + ½”.
K-A =1"for folding.
From the points B , A and K draw perpendiculars.
B -C is as A-D = scye depth of the body taken while drawing body draft + ½" to 1½ “.
For smaller sizes B-C is equal to the scye depth .
B-C =K-L.
Join C-L.
Mark D on the line C-L such that D-C =1/8th chest -½”. It should be between 3 to 3½”
B-J = 1”.
Join D-B .F is the middle point of D=B . F-H =¾”
G is the middle point of D-F. I-G= ½”
Shape the front scye curve of the sleeves D-I-F- J-B and Back scye curve of the sleeves D-H-J-B.
A-E = ½ sleeve round + 1" for seams.Join L-E.

Parts of a blouse

Prepare the draft and separate each part.Label all pattern pieces..Mark" place on fold" on the center-line of the back.Add 1/2" extension along the line of opening of the front to attach button-stands.(shown by shaded area)Mark the center of sleeve top.
Place the parts of the draft on the fabric and cut the parts
Step 1 Stay stitch neck,armscyes and sleeve top.

Step 2 Stitch darts.

Step 3 Attach the belt to the body.

Step 4 Stitch button stands. Right side should overlap the left side. Extension is stitched to the left side and right side is finished with a facing.

Step 5 Join shoulders.

Step 6 Finish neck line with Piping or flat facing

Step 7 Hem the lower edge of the sleeves and back.

Step 8. Attach sleeves to the body, matching center line of the sleeves to the shoulder line and easing wherever necessary.

Step 9 Stitch sides of the sleeves and body.

Step 10 Sew hook on the underside of right button stand and work eyes on the right side of left front facing



CraftCrave said...

Just a quick note to let you know that a link to this post will be placed on in the Handcraft category today [23 Mar 10:16am GMT]. Thanks, Maria

raje said...

Hi Vani, Thanks for ur blouse draft and would like to know is seam allowance included r it needs to be added. Thanks

vani said...

seam allowance is included

farfenflooger said...

Thanks so much for this! It's very helpful!

Srividya said...

Hi Vani
The web site is very helpful. Can you please help with a cut choli (kotori) blouse.
thank you

Prathyusha said...

Thank you so much. It is has been very useful

sudheer said...

Hi Vani,

My size is 32 and shoulders are 13...

when i use shoulder slope 1/2 or 3/4 i see shoulder is dropping off..

Could you please explain more on this?

My neck width is 7 inches....

vijayw said...

vani, my high bust is 36 and full bust 38 which size i should measure vani? i confused couse I' m very new, help me dear.vijay.w

vani said...

Please see here

Manisha Jeffrey (former name Pujari) and Jeffrey Andrews Simson said...

Hi Vani ji,
I found about this blog of yours from Indusladies. Thanks a lot for doing such a wonderful job!
I have been stitching since 13-14 years(only salwar-Kameez, Chudidar-Kameez sets).
After going through your blog, I tried making sari blouse. everything has come out perfect(Almost). while stitching the sleeves to the body(armhole area), I started first from the centre where the middle of the sleeves attach to the joint of the shoulders. Then I stitched front side, then the back side.
My problem here is, while doing the back side, I have got extra (apporx 1 inch) sleeve length after reaching the end. This has happened on both the sleeves.
I haven't stretched the cloth, neither I have taken wrong measurements(I double checked).
Is it supposed to happen this way or should I adjust the sleeves to match the body while stitching.

I am sorry, I have written a lengthy explaination, but I would be extremely grateful if you could answer my query.

Thanks a ton for your blog Vani ji.

Warm Regards.

vijayw said...

vani, saree blouse sleeve is also added ease and seam allowance too? can you explain how much ?seam allowance,,,2cm or 2.5cm.Ineed your help please. vijayw.

vani said...

A-E = sleeve round + 1" means, 1" for seams.If you want you can keep still more and put 2 or 3 parallel stitches In case we want to loosen it.

vani said...

Hi manisha
Pin the mid point of the sleeve to the shoulder line and sleeve sides to the side of the bodice and tack sleeves to the bodice adjusting their can stretch a little wherever it is necessary.Care should be taken not to spoil the shape of the curves

vijayw said...

vani dear, what is different front and back bodies adding (1+1/2" front) (1 1/2" back?what will going to happen when i take 1" side seam than?on sleeve B-D included 1"seam same as A-C ?Vani dear please tell me thank you. vijayw.

vani said...

I did not understand your question.
The draft that I have given has seam allowance of 1/2"
If you want to keep more on the sides
you add 1.5" or 2" for the sides of sleeves sides of bodice front, bodice back and sides of the patti also.Increase should be the same.

Vijay.Wendt said...

vani, I sew saree blouse getting good, but there is one thing make me cry. My abdominal and waist are larger , how can I fix my cutbelt . please explain to me how I can reduce[ size back waist- and front waist] for saree blouse belt?Because they are not equal.Vani thank you for your help.vijayw.

viji said...


viji said...


gaz said...

Hi Vani,
Your blog is really helpful. I want to make a blouse with interfacing in yoke, can you please explain how to cut and sew the yoke part.
Thanks & regards.

gaz said...

Hi Vani,
Your blog is really helpful. I want to make a blouse with interfacing in yoke, can you please explain how to cut and sew the yoke part.
Thanks & regards.

paridhi kabra said...

hi Vani,
your blog is really appealing. but if u don't mind i just want to seek some information relating to how to formulate such a fantastic blog. thanks, Sudha

Durga said...

Your tutorial is very good ...
Armscye stay stitch I did not ubnderstand this point will you please elaborate...Also sewing button stands....
If you provide pictorial tutorial like the one you have provided for katori blouse it will be helpful for beginners like me...Thanks a lot..

Nippy said...

hi vani,

i want to learn back open blouse with single dart in the front side...can you pls help me..

Sandhya said...

hai Vani...
I am a fashion designing student and i find ur blog very very useful...thanks a lot for sharing ur knowledge with us..

mala said...

dear vani,
your 'method of stitching saree blouse' is absolute perfection. the measurements are accurate and especially since you have given where to fold the cloth, no body can go wrong with it. it has helped me in a big way. thank you very much. can you also help me with the following:
1) can you tell me how to cut and stitch a puffed sleeves and how to stitch it as i am very found of puffed sleeves. can you give me the measurement of any other type of blouse?
2) can you tell me how to cut and stitch a nightie? you see vani, i live in Delhi where the summer is very severe. i cannot wear anything other than nightie all the time. besides, i bath twice a day in summer, which means i need 2 nighties in one day. i need dozens of nighties. it would be economical if i can stitch these myself.
3) have you also given the measurements of sititching any other items? if so, where do i find them? it would be helpful if you taught me how to stitch a salwar kameez the way you have explained blouse.
can you reply me for the above queries in my email address? my email id is looking forward to hearing from you,
yours sincerely,

vani said...

Hi mala please see my older posts.i have posted tutorials for all the topics you wanted.

lux said...

hai is there any other churidar cutting view from ur side.plz let me know

joy said...

hi vaniji,
Iam so happy and thrilled about your blog a lot. can i get your contact details so that i can come to you personally for tutorial classes?

Pls help me out


vani said...

Hi Usha thanks for the appreciation.I am very sorry I am not conducting any classes.

Shreesujatha said...

Dear Vani,
I have made a paper cut for blouse using your method of stitching the blouse.But the front part itself didnt come out properly.The H point comes outside D point and G point the same way.I took my mom's blouse.Her chest size is 42.5".I measured the chest using the inch tape by tightly holding the cloth and moving in circular motion touching the bust point and all.Here comes the calculations:A-B=11.75";A-C=7";A-D=3.5";A-G=5.3";A-H=5.3";D-E=12.125";B-F=12.125";E-K=0.5";L-F=0.5";D-I=6.5";C-R=0.75";I-J=1";D-S=4.29";B-M=1";S-T=3.8";D-N=S-T.Since the first part itself didnt come out properly i didnt do the paper cut for back,sleeve and belt part.Please please please help me where i must have gone wrong.I tried several times before by learning from other sources.I failed so many times.But this time i dont want to fail anymore.Please help me to stitch the blouse perfectly.Please Vani.Thank you.Have a nice time.Take care.Bye.K.Sujatha


great site thanks very informative dear Vani avl


Gerat site/blog very informative and well written.
Thanks Dear Vani Avl


Great Site/blog and very detailed.
Thanks Dear Vani Avl

vani said...

hi sree sujatha
method of drafting using body measurement is different from using blouse measurement.Please see here
I have explained hare.
neck depth and neck width depends upon our can use blouse measurement for that.What I have given here is standard measurements and general method of changes from person to person. You have to standardize can make it after sewing a few with cheap material. try it and Make corrections in the draft.When you are satisfied you stitch with a good fabric

Shreesujatha said...

Thanks a lot Vani mam,
Thanks a lot for such a prompt reply.I will follow ur advice and tips and get back to u with a positive reply.

Thank u

kalyani said...

I am looking for lehenga choli cuttings. Where can I find something with it?

Lakshmi Jayaraman said...

Thanks a lot for giving us such a detailed draft.
I have a doubt which I would like to get cleared.
While drafting the Front and Back portion of the blouse, we take the Front length by measuring from top of shoulder to below the breast, which in my case is 14 as I am a bit heavy busted.
The back length(full length of blouse) is just 14 1/2 inches.
Now, while cutting for patti you have mentioned the length of patti to be taken as Full length - Front length +1/2".
How shall I work this in my measurement, as the length of the patti, in my case, comes to just
1" , which would be too narrow.
Please help me out in this.
Lakshmi Jayaraman

Lakshmi Jayaraman said...

I had written asking for some clarifaication of my doubt while making a draft for the blouse.
Would it be possible for you to give me your phone no. or msg it to 9945838850 , as I also live in Bangalore, I can clear my doubts by talking to you?
Sorry for the trouble, but I make all my blouses myself and this is the one problem that has been giving me trouble right from the beginning.May be, if I can talk to you I can clear this .
Thank you,
and sorry for the trouble once again,

vani said...

Hi Lakshmi!
I could not answer your query.I was very busy. Keep back length of the blouse 1" more.width of front patti will be 2".Try and see.

Lakshmi Jayaraman said...

Hi Vani,
Thanks for your feedback.
I cannot increase the length at the back as it then becomes too long at the back.
Any other solution?
Thanks once again,

Prathima rai said...

hi vani.this is prathima here.i rely liked ur blog,its too goog.
as per instruction i tired sari blouse it come out rely good . i have one question taht if take back neck deep(9") the shoulder will loose(it will be lightly slips from the shoulder. pls reply to me .

thank you.

vani said...

For deep neck blouses keep shoulder width 1/2" less.

Hobby Sewer said...

Hello Mam,

I tried to stitch the saree blouse based on your tutorial. Here are the measurements I used.

Front Length = 11 inches
Full Length = 12.5 inches.

After completing the stitching, I realised that the length of front and back does not match. The back side had extra 2.25 inches more than the front side. Is this normal. (My feeling is that for hemming it should not be more than 1 inch)

I checked the tutorial again.. For the front part we are taking the length as

Front side A-B = Front Length + 0.5 inch =(11.5 as per my measurements)

Back side A-B = Full Length +1 inch
=(13.5 as per my measurements).

While drafting itself we are taking 2 inches more for the back side. Is this right. I am confused. Please clarify. Thanks

Hobby Sewer said...

Vani Mam,

I now understand my confusion. I forgot about the belt part. The belt part measurement when added to the front of the blouse would make it the same as that of the back of the blouse.

I think I should have gone wrong while taking the measurements. I will stitch one more blouse and come back to you in case of any doubts. Thanks

Aries said...

Dear Vani Madam,
your blog is a bible. Can you please tell the placing of bust pad as in the designer blouses and is it a princess seam pattern?

jain said...

Thank you for your post.
I will try for this.

Preetha said...

Hi Vani,

I am a great fan of your site. You are my guru in designing. I have a doubt in the measurement of Skye depth.
My Bust size is 38". You have clearly given the measurement for the same till 36" as below,

28” to 30” =¼ chest-¾’ to 1”
31” to 33” =¼ chest-1” to 1¼”
34” to 36” = ¼ chest-1½” to 2”
37 “ to 39” = 2¼” to 2¾”
40 to 42 =3” to 3½”

From 37" to 39" is it 1/4th of chest -2 1/4 " to 2 3/4" ?

Please confirm :)


vani said...

You are correct Preetha.I have corrected the mistake. Thanks for pointing it out.

vani said...

Hi sreesujatha
There was a mistake in the measurement of AD.I have corrected it.please read it again and draw the draft.

Hamsini said...

Hi Madam... I am new to dis blog... Its very helpful and Thx... How to stitch back hook blouse and piping neck? Pls mail me... My id is

Hamsini said...

Hi Madam... I am new to dis blog... Its very helpful and Thx... How to stitch back hook blouse and piping neck? Pls mail me... My id is

vani said...

I have posted the method of finishing neck by piping here
to stitch back open blouse,Cut front bodice and patti on fold. add extension to the back for button stands.

Hamsini said...

Thx for ur immediate reply madam... But i dont understand clearly... If poss send me with pictures of back hook button blouse like u sent about normal blouse...
And the piping is also not clear... getting confuse... Pic pls madam.....
Thank You...

Hamsini said...

Thx madam now i know to stitch blouse. Pls teach me how to stitch blouse neck designs with lace like star cut, pot neck, necklace type neck etc... particularly i want to know how to finish the neck neatly with bias strips... pls mail me madam...

Hamsini said...

And madam pls teach with pictures... it will be verrryyy helpful...

Makam Vijaya Bhargavi said...

Hi vani i want u to be my friend, at present iam not having any doubts, i have started learning blouse now so if i get any doubts please solve my problems n I will be thankful to u bye VIJAYA

pearlme said...

please tell me if i have to leave extra inches for darts + 1 1/2 for seams to adjust?

mable alahakoon said...

dear vani! your work is excerlent. i want to keep ur notes with me when ever i do my learning from yours. plse give me a way of keeping your note to myself. as u dont alllow us to copy the notes, instruct me a way of keeping such a nice understandable notes with me. if u would give a way i am so happy with u. thank u so much mable

Shruti Devi said...

Hi Vani, Thank you very much for the detailed instruction. This is awesome. I stitched my first blouse and it worked very well. Would it be possible for you to post instructions for a spaghetti strap and halter neck blouse. I like to wear sleeveless but when I tried a sleeveless the armholes did not sit right. Is there a trick to this? Thanks for all the info.

Shruti Devi said...

Hi Vani, Thank you very much for the detailed instruction. This is awesome. I stitched my first blouse and it worked very well. Would it be possible for you to post instructions for a spaghetti strap and halter neck blouse. I like to wear sleeveless but when I tried a sleeveless the armholes did not sit right. Is there a trick to this? Thanks for all the info.

Shruti Devi said...

Hi Vani, Thank you very much for the detailed instruction. This is awesome. I stitched my first blouse and it worked very well. Would it be possible for you to post instructions for a spaghetti strap and halter neck blouse. I like to wear sleeveless but when I tried a sleeveless the armholes did not sit right. Is there a trick to this? Thanks for all the info.

vani said...

keep the shoulder width 1/2" less and scye depth also 1/2:" less

shital mahajan said...

Hi, my name is shital.Thanks.

rose rani said...

Hello Mam,

First i would like to thank you for detailed information u hav provided in ur blog....I need to clarify one front part including attached patti is longer than the back part of the saree..i tried to increase the length of the back part to match with front part..but back part seems to be too long ...please tell me how to stitch without increasing the back part, but to match with front part (as my bust size is larger) total length of back part is 14-1/2 and front part including the patti is 17-1/2....would be very helpful if u clarify my doubt....

Saroja said...

Hello Vani,
I love your blog and thanks for the detailed informtation on how to stitch a blouse. i have a question on darts.
You have mentioned the width and i would like to know how to measure the "required length" for darts?
I am visiting my daughter in the US and I am in the process of stitching blouses for her. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Saroja said...

Hello Vani,
I love your blog and thanks for the detailed informtation on how to stitch a blouse. i have a question on darts.
You have mentioned the width and i would like to know how to measure the "required length" for darts?
I am visiting my daughter in the US and I am in the process of stitching blouses for her. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Isom said...

Thank you so very much, Vani, in providing instructions on drafting & sewing a choli blouse for a sari! I've previously used your instructions to make two salwar kameez & a churidar kameez out of fabric purchased at an Indian shop. All three had matching fabric for the tops & bottoms along with matching dupatta.

Now, I've found two beautiful saris 2nd hand for a very good price but need the blouse to go with them. Thanks to your work in writing all the instructions for us, I'm confident that I'll soon have the blouses to match them.

I'm not Indian but have a number of Indian friends & love the lovely feminine styles. I particularly love how beautiful salwar kameez can look while also being very modest. T

Again, thank you, Vani, for all your effort in writing up your extensive site to help us!

Sarees online said...

Firstly i want to say very very thankx you vani.. a good saree blouses and sarees to stiching explaination thnak you.. i like it. want to buy designed blouses click here Printed Sarees

Sreedevi said...

Can u tell how to place the saree blouse paper draft on the cloth like figure 2 in the salwar with waist piece

Prathima Rajeev said...

how to stitch a back tie to a blouse,procedure for preparing back tie please

vani said...

I have posted method of preparing back tie here.

Priya said...

Hi Vani,

I would like to stitch a blouse with back buttons.


Priya said...


I would like to know how to stitch a blouse with back buttons.

Priya said...


I would like to know how to stitch a blouse with back buttons.

Priya said...


I would like to know how to stitch a blouse with back buttons.

Priya said...

Hi Vani
I would like to Know how to stitch blouse with back buttons

ambika said...

Thank you mam for the helpfull blog.I have stiched blouses My problem is that the shoulder joint near the neck comes forward and the back peice can be seen from front( near the neck),the point A and C in fig1
I take slop C-R 1/2 inch for back and front.My bust is 42 and scye 7inches

ambika said...

Thank you mam fo rhe blog

vani said...

Check weather you have measured C-D the front length properly.


I like your pattern. but I want to know that app. of how much length a dart should be.

vani said...

Dart should end at 1/2" away from the point T.

Ghazala Akhter said...

Dear Vani gee,

Plz let me know how may I contatc you personaly? coz on your site there is no contatc us etc..



N Govender said...

Hi Vani,

my chest is 35.
therefore AG works out to 4.4 and DS works out to 3.6.
however,on your diagram, AG appears shorter than DS. on my diagram, AG appears longer than DS.
please assist.

Unknown said...

It was very interesting to go through your blog....
I would request you to let me know if you have a draft for a choli blouse without the belt ...the old fashioned type with just darts .
Thank you ,

SatrangiFabrics said...

Hello vani,
You are such an artist.. So well explained. Keep it up.

Latest designer sarees, aprty wear sarees, embroidered sarees, casual sarees, women saree blouses, designer saree blouses online

SatrangiFabrics said...

Hello vani you have explain such a difficult task so well. Every women wearing sarees will definitely need saree blouses to be stitched. This is very useful for those who are learning stitching blouses themselves. Keep it up..

Women saree blouses online

Studio AG said...

I have read your blog regarding designer saree blouses, As you had right wonderful article, and this is very interesting.
Thanks for sharing such wonderful blog.

Saraswati said...

Dear Vani, I want to thank you for your post of the saree blouse. I have just stitched one blouse for my mother using your instructions and and it was perfect. she was so happy... and me too. Thank you once again.. :)

Sudha said...

Can you please post how to cut Long Sleeve (Full Hand) for saree blouse

Pramila Sudharshan said...

hi vaniamma,

your blog is really wonderful gift for the beginners and like a guidence dictonary for experienced thanks a lot amma. Im a beginner i stitched one blouse to my mother it cameout fantastically but the thing is armhole cutting and in sleeves cutting i have doubt, whether we should include 11/2 seam allowance to mark the sleeves share or to exclude it pls explain amma


vani said...

while drafting usually we keep 1/2" as seem allowance and 1" foe loose .if you want to keep it extra make the garment loose we can add.It should be same for side seam of the body and side seam of the sleeve.

muruganandan hamsaveni said...

hi vani this is hams. can i know what will be the minimum measurement of AG. whether 2.5" or 3". i cannot finish the front piece properly. pls reply me.

vani said...

A-G is neck width. It is up to your taste.There must be some other mistake. Please check it.

Mansi Garg said...

namste mam

mujhe apke blog se kafi elp mili hai. par mujhe dori bnani nhi ayi hai jo design bnanae ke kam ati hai blouse mein. mam plz dori bnane ka method bhi btaye.


vani said...

Hi mansi
Please see this. It is here.

Sangeetha Kumar said...

hi vani madam,your are doing great job here i really got many things from this site thank you so much madam please continue your service like this all the very best....

Bharat Plaza said...

Great tips, I like the guidelines you have laid out here... very helpful Post!
Saree Shops

jimmy soni said...

Hello, its my marriage in feb and I want all my sari blouse with backside hook but but tailor i telling its not good because if after marriage if my weight may increase then it cannot get loose pls pls guide which types of blouses would be ok for sari, chaniyacholi and half sari

Chrysalis Communication Solutions said...

Hi Vani. Thank you for your guidelines on how to stitch a choli blouse. I would appreciate your step by step information of how to attach the 'belt' or 'patti' as you call it. I find this is the most tricky part of stitching a choli blouse.
Warm regards and God bless.

mayuri Venkatesh said...

Namaste Vaniyavare,
Your blog is a sewing school for people like me who learn from internet. Thank you very much for being so generous and sharing your valuable knowledge .
I wanted to know one thing, do you take classes in Bangalore?? If so how can I contact you. Please let me know. I live in ahmedabad and will be coming there for summer vacation.
Thank you

vani said...

Sorry I am not taking any classes

avani asmita said...

Hello mam ..

I find ur blog very usefull.. Trust me.. I m wearing sarees since 11 years .. And never had a good fitting.. Now i will try ur ways and stich my own blouse... My only problem is when i cut my neckline .. It gets very broad .. Going down to my shoulders.. ( same problem with kameez neckline ... ) can u suggest some tips for cutting the neckline pattern ( mostly round neck ) ....

And last i have no more words for ur generousity for such tutorial ...

Stay Blessed ...

Regards Avani...

dr.renu said...

Hello madam... am a doctor but interested in stitching too. Can u teach me how to stitch a halter neck blouse. Thnx a lot

sudha kc said...

Namaste madam
Your blog is very useful.I am learning how to stitch a blouse.I have a doubt.I want to produce that doubt with draft I have taken.Is it possible to give your email ID.It is helpful to send a draft.

Thank you

Jean Cox said...

Do you not use the straight grain of fabric as in English sewin

vani said...

Yes .always selvages should to the sides unless it is told otherwise.

sudha kc said...

Hello madam,
I have a doubt.My ready shoulder measurement is 2 and half inches.My ready armhole is 5 and half inches and for this armhole, sleeve round is 7 inches. If I reduce my shoulder measurement for 2 inches is it required to make any change in sleeve round? If that half inch effect the shape of armhole?
I heard that there is a standard measurement for armhole and sleeve round measurement. That is for 5 and half inches armhole sleeve round is 7 inches,for 6 inches armhole sleeve round is 7 and half inches this is goes like this. Is it right?
Thank you

vani said...

I have no idea about that.scye depth depends on chest measurement .we keep same scye depth while drafting sleeves aswell as bodice.

JAY said...


I would like to know if you give classes. I am interested. Where is your place and how much do you charge


vani said...

Sorry I am not taking classes

Shreya Narayanan said...

hello vani, can u please tell me how to take front measurements with a stitched blouse as i am not able to find that in your blog

Supraja Mukundan said...

Vani ji,
I am facing a problem in front part of cut choli blouse calculation.
DS = 3.9 (my chest measure is 37.5)
AG = 4.68 as per my calculation.
Bust point T comes at 3.9 inches
but as per diagram, point U should come after neck point G. UT should be the bust length.
In my case, U comes even before the neck point G.. Please help

sk said...

Hi mam

thank you so much for the clear explanation and drafts for stitching sari blouse. However I have some doubts while i tried drafting a blouse for my mother.
For the neck width you have taken A-G as 1/8th chest. Is it 1/8 or 1/12th of chest as it becomes very wide while drafting.

Another doubt is regarding the belts.My mothers chest is 45.5" and front length is 15" and full lenght is also 15". So while calculating I am getting U-V as 1/2". Can you please help me with the belt. WExpecting your reply soon.

himshikha said...

hello vani.. thnks for such a helpful information on blouse stiching, wud like to connect your blog again

hema manoharan said...

Hello mam,Im new to this blog,the blouse draft was very usefull.Can you please help me with the bollywood style blouse.
Im hema.My mail
Thank you

nuplupaplu said...

hi vani :) i am very impressed and inspired by your blog. thank you for sharing your knowledge

mogarala hanusha reddy said...

I am very very impressed by your blog.
Is there any online class that you are teaching.
plz reply.

Usha Suresh said...

Madam can the screen depth exceed 6 inches for the blouse will it not sag like a bag and please can you give me your contact number so that I can speak to you to clarify my doubts I will be very grateful if you do so thank you

Andal S said...

Hi, I just tried sari blouse the way you've explained and it turned out PERFECT!! Have tried various methods and calculations and patterns before, but never was able to get it so perfectly. The point, sleeves, darts everything was just exact. I'm so impressed. Thanks a ton :-)

Татьяна Хаперская said...

Hello dear Vani! I have a big request to you. I can not find that information. Please explain to how sew the pre-stitched sarees for style Lavani? like this photo

HR reladeal electronic india ltd said...


Татьяна Хаперская said...

to these links unfortunately not open the photo. How can I send you a picture?

HR reladeal electronic india ltd said...

HI MADAM,, Kindly clear me the seam allowance.. which measurement is seam allowance and which measurement is looseness...

for example D-E : 1/4 TH CHEST + 1 + 1/2 INCH..

And pls also clear the A-B : FRONT LENGTH + 1/2 INCH... here you mentioned 1/2 inch seam allownce only for patti attachment.. will we have to add seam for shoulder joint?

awaiting for your reply....

kindly reply me mam..

thk you..
rajeswari senthilkumar...

mala said...

Dear Vani, i am excited to see your blog. can i down load some of your postings? will you please permit me? when and how can I down load some of it. for instance i want to down load your basic nighty and a few other postings. Please permit me, will you? i have a sewing machine and i want to down load them for my personal use. eagerly awaiting your reply,