Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Anarkali salwar set top





Anarkali salwar top has two portions, bodice portion and skirt portion.It is figure-hugging till the upper torso and below that, it turns into a frock and gets a lot of flare.Length of the bodice will be up to lower border of the ribcage . Anarkali suits are worn with churidars . This dress can be stitched with plain sleeve, ¾ sleeve, full sleeve or sleeveless. Skirt can be gathered,pleated , flared , half circular or circular.
Circular cut skirt is also called umbrella skirt. There will be no side seams and no gathers in the waist.It requires material with wider width. If material with wider width is not available it can also be stitched by joining two pieces together such that joint comes at the back of the skirt.Anarkali dress looks good if it is stitched with flowing material like chiffon

method of drafting

Measurements need

Chest
Waist
Shoulder
Bodice length- measured from shoulder line near the neck to the lower border of the ribcage. (depends upon one's taste also )
Full length - from shoulder line to bottom of the dress.
Sleeve length
Sleeve round


Body front and back

A-E =Bodice length +1"
A-D =¼ chest -1”
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, and E
A-B =½ shoulders + ¼”
A-K = Neck width =1/12th chest or to taste
A-L =Back neck depth =1¾” or to taste
A-M = front neck depth 1/8th chest or to taste
D-F =¼ chest +1½” (if loose fitting is needed 2 “to 2½” can be added)
Mark point S on D-F such that D-S =A-B. Join B-S. On this line mark N such that S-N = 1½”
N-O = ¾”
Mark T on B-S such that B-T = 1”. Join K-T. Shape back neck K-L, front neck K-M as shown.
Shape front arm scye T-N-F and Back arm scye T-O-F
E-G =D-F and G-I =½”. Join F-I
Mark U on E-G such that E-U = 1/12th chest+ 1/2"
P-U= length of the dart = 1/6th chest

Skirt


B-D =1/6th waist
A-D=Full length -bodice length +1½”
From B draw perpendicular B-C.
B-E =B-D and E-C = A-D Shape D-E and A-C as shown in the figure

Sleeves

refer here
Layout

Bodice




Place the draft prepared on the fabric as shown in the lay out and cut the different parts . While cutting the bodice back an extra extension of 1½” is added along the line L-E for button stands( shaded area). If the material is not wide enough ¼” of the extension is added for seams along the line L-E and while stitching separate pieces are attached.

skirt

Skirt is generally cut without a seam at the circumference if the material if wide enough. When the width of the material is not wide enough same material can be joined at one side. While stitching care must be taken to keep the joint at the back.

Step 1




Place the draft on the material and mark the outline. Mark the place A –B where extra piece to be added.
Step 2

 



Cut the extra piece of material beyond the outline.
Attach it along the line A-B taking care to match the grain.

Step 3




Place the draft on the fabric thus stitched and cut the draft

Stitching

1. Stay stitch neck line, Shoulders, armscyes and top of the sleeves.
2. Stitch button stands (Plackets)
3. Stitch darts of width ¼ “
4. Stitch neck by giving piping or flat facing or fitted facing
5. Hem the sleeve edges.
6. Stitch the sides of the sleeves and sides of the bodice.
Measure the waist.
7. Cut a slash of 3” in the waist line of the skirt .Stitch it with continuous bound placket.
Measure the waist of the skirt. It should be equal to the waist of the skirt.
8. Attach the skirt to the bodice.
9. Finish the Curved bottom of the skirt by hemming




Photobucket

27 comments:

Sangeet said...

Hello vani,
I have a doubt on extending the fabric width while cutting umbrella skirt.One method of using the same fabric for extending the width is as u said , is good.But how to extend the length after cutting the skirt with a lesser width fabric. Should we use a bias cut for the extension fabric or the straight cut? or is there any technique to extend the length of the umbrella skirt , if u can suggest ?Please ....

Sangeet said...

Yor both blogs are very good ..! Very good work , your drafting and construction methods remind me of my pattern making faculty.!

vani said...

Hi Sangeet,
Please see the same post again.I have explained in detail
Best wishes
Vani

Sangeet said...

Thank you so much for replying !

I have cut the umbrella skirt already and now i want to join an extension to it . Is it possible? if so should i use a fabric which is cut in bias ?

I think now i make my point clear to u ...Please help!
Thanking you again

vani said...

If the material is not enough,you will not be able to cut the fabric in to a circle.It will be a "D" shape.Stitch a piece of fabric to the straight edge.Match the grain of the fabric.You should not stitch length wise material to width wise material.Place the draft again on the fabric and cut the remaining portion of the circle.

Sangeet said...

Thank you

VANI....

Sangeet

Sangeet said...

Hello vani

I have stitched anarkali suit with umbrella cut for the skirt .

Here is the picture , have a look

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Mh72hACy9bk/S7Q-BzOiR8I/AAAAAAAAACA/e8Anclyr7QA/s1600/100_2654.JPG

vani said...

I could no access the blog

shasna said...

Hiiii Vani.....

You are a very talented lady....No doubt....I didn't sew anything in my life time..But I know how to operate sewing machine.....When i saw ur blog....I was eager to sew an anarkkali salwar...Now it is under construction...hehhehe........I will post the picture when i finish....I am very thankful to you to teach us the sewing......byeeee

shasna said...

Hiiii Vani.....

You are a very talented lady....No doubt....I didn't sew anything in my life time..But I know how to operate sewing machine.....When i saw ur blog....I was eager to sew an anarkkali salwar...Now it is under construction...hehhehe........I will post the picture when i finish....I am very thankful to you to teach us the sewing......byeeee

drjagan said...

hi vani,
this is sree. i like ur blog it is really interesting. recently i have started stitching by my own. ur blog helps me a lot for my experiments. thanks alot. have a good day.

drjagan said...

hi vani,
this is sreejagan. like ur blog very much. it helps me a lot in my stitching experiments.
have a nice day bye.

khatijah_b said...

Hi Vani...I would like to sew a flare Anarkali top but I do not want to have panels ...can u pls explain how should I go abt it...tks.

FASHION said...

anarkali suits

Salwar Kameez Online said...

Thanks for sharing it with us. Really love it.

raginipattapu said...

hello vani garu your post are very good but if u can post them in telugu language also if possible
thankyou

firdous khan said...

7. Cut a slash of 3” in the waist line of the skirt .Stitch it with continuous bound placket.
Measure the waist of the skirt. It should be equal to the waist of the skirt.

PLEASE HELP ME TO UNDERSTAND THIS.DO WE HAVE TO CUT FROM THE WAIST LINE OF THE SKIRT.

Suravali said...

hello vani,

if u can help me on how to cut umbrella cut dress i will b very gr8ful..i hv been searching it all over the net but couldnt find it... i m not asking abt half circular skirt and bodice or anarkali suit...but what i m asking is how to cut a dress which is flared at the bottom but with no cuts or stitched..

vani said...

Tutorial which I have given is for umbrella cut dress.There is no cut in the skirt portion.If the material is not enough you have to add a piece.If you want to stitch a skirt you have to stitch belt near the waist line instead of bodice

Tabassum Ansari said...

Do you stitch and alter every kind of salwar kameez? I was looking for some stitching of my salwar suit materials. Since I bought it online there is no facility of stitching. Check here the partywear salwar kameez, I want same style while stitching. Please let me know if you can do it.

Vatsala. said...

Hi Vani aunty,
I want to make an anarkali with the 5 meters of ghera? what would be the best method for that.....full circle skirt or panel with kali, or any other. Please suggest.
Thanks
Vatsi

syed.mehdi said...

Hi, can i buy designer salwar suits?

nazmeen said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Jomso Ethnic Zone said...

The tailoring you have shown here is a real help for those who are in love with fahsion designing. Making such lovely salwar suit is a master piece.

jas said...

hi...
my readymade anarkali is around 2" loose around the waist...can u tell how to alter it???? it is a net shirt with Chanderi georgette lining and the lining is not attavjef till waist...it is attached till the yoke part only

vani said...

Remove stitches at sides where skirt is attached to the skirt. Reduce the waist of the skirt and bodice by sewing 1/2" inside the seam the original seam line. Join the bodice to the skirt.first you put long temporary stitch and try.then you can machine stitch

Subhashree Iyer said...

How much cloth is required for A-line anarkali ?