Saturday, November 29, 2008

Pavade ( Long pleated skirt)










Measurements needed
Shoulder = A to B
Chest = C to D
Waist length = G to M
Waist = E to F
Sleeve width = I to J or K to L

draft of bodice

Front and back of the bodice of pavade draft is same except for the neck. It is economical to cut paper drafts and then cut the cloth. Draft should be drawn on 4 fold paper. Line 1 to 3 should be exactly on the fold. Draft of the back and front is drawn on four fold paper.

1 to 3 =length of the bodice +1/2 “,
1 to 2 = 1/8 chest +2”+1/2”, ( two and a half inches) draw perpendicular lines from 1, 2 &; 3.
1 to 6=shoulder (from nape to shoulder end, at the sleeve point) +1/4”,
1 to 7=neck width=1/12 chest+1/4”or to taste.
1 to 16 = back neck depth=2”+1/2” or to taste.
1 to 11= front neck length depth=1/8 chest or totaste .
Shape back and front neck as shown in the figure.
2 to 5 = 1/4 chest + 1” + 1/2 “.
2 to 9 = 1 to 6. Join 6 &; 9.
6 to 8= shoulder slope = ½”.Join 7 &; 8.
Shape arm hole 8 to 5. 2 to 5=3 to 4.
4 to 10 =1/2”. Join 5 and 10.
3 to 14 =1/12 chest + ½”
14 to 15 =2”+1/2” .
A dart of ¼” is taken at the point 14
Cut back draft( blue line )is cut on four folds. Back draft which is behind is separated. Front neck (green line) is cut on the remaining two folds. This will be the front bodice.

Skirt
Measurement needed for skirt
Length- length from waist to desired length.
Width- width of the skirt depends upon the gathers. 2 to 3½ times the waist measurement is suitable.
Stitching
Join shoulders. Stitch button stands. Stitch darts (½”)at the places shown in the bodice draft. Stitch armhole and neck with bias binding.
Stitch the sides of the skirt. Attach skirt to bodice distributing the pleats evenly around the waist.

14 comments:

Godson said...

hi vani,can u tell me how u have done that neck part (attaching yellow colored part on the neck)

Godson said...

sorry vani i have not seen it even this time this is "grace"

vani said...

I have kept a border matching the shape of the neck and machine stitched.

Aparna said...

Hi Vani,
Thanks a lot for your wonderful work.I was wondering if you can a post a column on how to draft, cut and sew a saree blouse/choli.It would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance.
Aparna

Deepali said...

Hi Vani, you are indeed a blessing for many of us. Please let us know how to stitch fleece pajamas (or the complete night dress ).Its winter in the US and fleece material is available in plenty.

Amul said...

Hi mam
Can u pls explain me what is 1-2 in bodice draft? Awaiting for ur reply
Aparna

vani said...

1-2 is scye depth = 1/8th chest + two and a half inches

Amul said...

Wow....so fast reply..Thnq so much maam... am gaining so much of knowledge thru ur blog. Thnx once again :)

Amul said...

Mam...I could ot find 15 in the draft given. can u pls help me? Also let me know reg the measurements...should i take around measurements or from right to left seams?

vani said...

15 is above 14

Shalini_S said...

Hello Mam..

Can you give some tips to make the pleats?? I'm not able to get it correctly?

vaidehi sapre said...

Hi vaniji,

Can you show me how to alter the parkar from top since i dont want to lose the nice jari border on my daughters parkar. I have the parkar polka for my daughter which is 1 size above her current measurements. I like to get cloths bigger coz 2 yr old will quickly grow out of it.

vani said...

what is parkar? please tell me.

vaidehi sapre said...

Hi

Parkar means povada. The skirt that is shown on this page. In maharashtra we call it parkar polka where polka means blouse.

Parkar does not have any bodice part to it, it's like a skirt

http://pune.all.biz/parkar-polka-g214095#callmeform

In this link above you can see the long skit, I don't want to cut the border at the bottom so how can I adjust from the top? I want my daughter to use this for future years so don't want to cut the fabric.

Please suggest.