How to stitch a nightie

Front and Back
Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper keeping A-N along the fold.
A-B =I/2 of  Shoulder width + ¼”.
A-F = Neck width =1/12 chest + ¼” or to taste.
A-G =Back neck depth = 2” or to taste.
A-H =Front neck depth =A-F or to taste.
A-D =1/8 chest +3”.
A-L =Waist length + ¼”
A-N = Full length + 1”
Draw perpendiculars from D, L and N
D-C =A-B. Mark point I such that I-C = 1”
Join B-I.On the line B-I mark E such that B-E =3/4"
D-J =1/4 chest + 2” or to taste.
L-K = D-J. Mark O such that O-K = ½” or to taste.
N-M =¼ chest + 10” or to taste. Join O-M.
M-P =3/4”.
Join points F-E, J-O and O-P. Shape P-N.
Shape back neck F-G and Back scye E-J.
Shape front neck F-H and front pcye E-I-J. (Shown in pink lines)
Cut along the line G-F-E-J-O-P-N.
Open the fold. Cut along folded line. Separate the sheet on which lines are not marked. This is the draft for the back of the nightie.
On the other portion of the sheet on which lines are marked cut the front neck shape F-H and front scye shape E-I-J.This is the draft for the front of the nightie.

Sleeves




Draw the draft on folded sheet of paper keeping A-C on folded line.
A-C =Sleeve length +1/4”
A-X = 1” for folding.
Mark point B. Such that B-C =1/8 chest.
Drop perpendiculars from X-A-and B.
A-D = Sleeve width =Half of sleeve round + ¾” for seems.
B-G = biceps = 1/8 chest + 3”.
X-F is marked a bit longer than A-D as shown the figure. This gives a good finish for the hem.
Join X-F-D-G-C.
Mark H such that H-C =1”. And Mark I such that I-G = 2”.
Shape G-H -C (back side of the sleeve).
Shape G-I -H -C (front side of the sleeve- pink line).
Cut along X-F-G-H -C. Open fold. Cut along the pink line G-I -H -C.

cutting



Prepare paper drafts of the parts of the nightie as described .Fold the material such that selvedges come to sides and right side together .Keep the fold line of the daft on the fold line of the material and cut. Open the fold of the draft of the sleeve. Place it on folded material and cut two sleeves together. While cutting plain material care should be taken not to cut two left sleeves or two right sleeves

Stitching

Stay stitch neck line, shoulders, armsyes and top of the sleeve .This avoids stretching of the fabric while handling. Join front and back bodice at shoulders. Stitch sleeve hem. Attach sleeve to the bodice taking care to match body front to sleeve front. Stitch neck line with bias binding. Stitch front and back sides of sleeves and bodice. Hem the bottom of the bodice.

Pavade ( Long pleated skirt)

Measurements needed
Shoulder = A to B
Chest = C to D
Waist length = G to M
Waist = E to F
Sleeve width = I to J or K to L

draft of bodice

Front and back of the bodice of pavade draft is same except for the neck. It is economical to cut paper drafts and then cut the cloth. Draft should be drawn on 4 fold paper. Line 1 to 3 should be exactly on the fold. Draft of the back and front is drawn on four fold paper.

1 to 3 =length of the bodice +1/2 “,
1 to 2 = 1/8 chest +2”+1/2”, ( two and a half inches) draw perpendicular lines from 1, 2 &; 3.
1 to 6=shoulder (from nape to shoulder end, at the sleeve point) +1/4”,
1 to 7=neck width=1/12 chest+1/4”or to taste.
1 to 16 = back neck depth=2”+1/2” or to taste.
1 to 11= front neck length depth=1/8 chest or totaste .
Shape back and front neck as shown in the figure.
2 to 5 = 1/4 chest + 1” + 1/2 “.
2 to 9 = 1 to 6. Join 6 &; 9.
6 to 8= shoulder slope = ½”.Join 7 &; 8.
Shape arm hole 8 to 5. 2 to 5=3 to 4.
4 to 10 =1/2”. Join 5 and 10.
3 to 14 =1/12 chest + ½”
14 to 15 =2”+1/2” .
A dart of ¼” is taken at the point 14
Cut back draft( blue line )is cut on four folds. Back draft which is behind is separated. Front neck (green line) is cut on the remaining two folds. This will be the front bodice.

Skirt
Measurement needed for skirt
Length- length from waist to desired length.
Width- width of the skirt depends upon the gathers. 2 to 3½ times the waist measurement is suitable.
Stitching
Join shoulders. Stitch button stands. Stitch darts (½”)at the places shown in the bodice draft. Stitch armhole and neck with bias binding.
Stitch the sides of the skirt. Attach skirt to bodice distributing the pleats evenly around the waist.