A line Kurthi

Bodice

Simple kameez draft can be modified to A line Kurthi by making following changes.
The length of Kurthi is measured from the nape of neck to hip or to taste.
Shape of the side is should be changed.
This dress can be stitched with or without waist darts.
Figure 1 is the draft of simple kameez. Pink dotted lines show the changes that are made.
A-Z = Length of Kurthi
Draw perpendicular from the point Z.
Z-X=D-F +2½”. Join F-X.
Figure 2 is the draft of A line Kurthi.

Sleeve

Draft of the Kurthi sleeve is same as draft of the Simple kameez sleeve.

Method of stitching Patiala salwar

Measurements needed

1 Seat
2 Full length
3 Crotch depth=Sit on a hard chair and measure at the side from the waist to the chair seat .
or 1/4th of seat +4"
4 Leg round

Waist band

A-B=seat/2 + 1½” or to taste depending upon the fitting needed.
A-C =Seat/6 +2”.

Side panel

E-G =full length –length of the waistband +2½”.
Mark point I such that E-I = E-G – 3”.
Draw perpendiculars from E, I and G.
E-F =panel width=Leg round + 2 to 4” depending upon the built of the person.
I – J = E-F.
G-H =leg round/2 + 1”. Join F-G-and H.

Kali

K-M = F-J of the side Panel.
K-O = crotch depth - waist band length + 1”.
Draw perpendicular from K and O.
K-L = width of the material used for stitching.
O-N = K-L .Join L and N. Join M-N by curved line as shown in the figure.

prepare the draft Place the draft on the fabric as shown in the layout in Figure 2 and cut the pattern pieces. Cut kali along the line K-M and separate

Pattern pieces

Waist band -2nos
Side panels –2 no’s
Kali-4 nos

Stitching

Turn in 2” of the leg round H-G-H’, and stitch sandwiching 1½” of canvas in between the folds
Take one of the side panel and attach kali on either side as shown in the figure 4. Do the same thing for the other side panel.



Fold this into half along the line E-G, keeping right sides together and stitch the curve M-N as shown in the figure 5Stitch the other leg portion also in the same manner.



Keeping right sides together join these two leg portions at the crotch line as shown in the figure 6.






Join the two pieces of the waist band. Keeping right sides together pin front crotch seam ( select any one ) to front waist band seem(select any one). and back crotch seem to back waist band seem. Attach each leg portion with the waist band by taking pleats of equal width .The pleats should start from the centre of the front portion of the waist band and extend upto the centre of the back of the waist band. The pleats of each leg portion should be facing each other.



Fold the other edge of the waste band by 1” and prepare casing for the draw string.

Method of stitching sari blouse

Sari blouse is worn along with a sari, as its name suggests. As soon as a sari is bought matching blouse is stitched. Blouse can be of the colour of the border of the sari or the colour of body of the sari. People who are short it is advisable to wear the blouse that matches the body of the sari. Contrast colour blouses can be worn along with plain sari. Blouse with cute prints looks good with a plain sari. Sari blouses should be created with a full opening either in the front or in the back.
There are many varieties of blouses. They may have long or short sleeves or sleeveless and the blouse length can vary from very short to waist length with varieties of necklines and back patterns.
Sari blouse is a tight fitting garment. It should be custom made. I have explained here the basic method of drafting a sari blouse. It is advisable to prepare a paper draft and then the fabric is cut. A trial blouse is stitched first with a cheap material. There might be some wrinkles here and there which can be corrected in the paper draft while stitching the next blouse. The difficult part in stitching sari blouse is attaching the sleeves to the body. I feel it is better to attach the sleeves to the body with running stitch. Stitch the sides of sleeves and sides of the body also with running stitch. Wear the blouse and check for any wrinkles. Corrections can be made at this point. When you are satisfied with the fitting machine stitch the blouse. Thus the blouse draft can be standardized

Measurements needed
Chest
Full length of the blouse
Shoulder
Sleeve length
Sleeve round

Front length-Measured   from shoulder along the highest point of bust to where bra  cup  ends.

For taking body measurements please refer    here    and also the figure  1.

Front
A to B= front length + ½”.
A to C = ½ shoulder + ¼”.
On the line A-B mark D such that A-D =¼ chest -1¼” or 1½”.
A-D is called scye depth. It varies with chest measurement. It can be calculated using the chest measurement.It can also be measured directly on the body. It is measured from the nape of the neck downwards to a line that joins armpits. refer  Figure 1

Scye depth for various breast measurements

28” to 30” =¼ chest-¾’ to 1”
31” to 33” =¼ chest-1” to 1¼”
34” to 36” = ¼ chest-1½” to 2”
37 “ to 39” = ¼ chest- 2¼” to 2¾”
40 to 42 = ¼ chest-3” to 3½”

Draw perpendicular lines from the points D and B to the line A-B.
On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark H on A-B such that A-H =neck depth =1/8th chest or to taste.
Shape front neck curve H-G.
Mark D-E=¼ chest +1 +1/2".
Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
Produce D-E to K such that E-K=. ½”.
Mark L on B-F such that L-F =½’
Join K-L.
On the line D-E mark point I such that D-I = ½” less than A-C.
Join I-C .On the line I-C mark point R such that C-R =½” or ¾”. Join G-R.
On the line I-C mark a point J such that I-J =1”.
Shape the scye round R-J-E-K.
On the line D-E mark a point S such that D-S =1/12th chest +¾”.
On the line A-B mark point M such that B-M =1”.Join M-L by a curved line as shown in the figure.
Drop a perpendicular from the point S. This line meets the curved line M-L at P. On this line Mark point T which is the bust point It can be marked in two ways.

Method 1

Mark T such that distance S-T=1/8th chest-1½”.

Method 2

Actual bust length is measured from the shoulder line to the highest point of the bust. Mark T along the line U-T passing through S such that U-T is equal to is the bust length.

Darts

All the darts should point towards the bust point T and end 1/2"  away from T.
Mark N on the line A-B such that D-N =S-T. Take ½” or ¾” dart
At point P a dart of 1¼” to 2” dart of required length is taken
On the line K-L mark a point O such that O-L = 1” take a dart of ¾” wide and of required length.
At the point J take a dart of ½” wide of required length.

Belt

U-V= Full length of the blouse –Front length +½”.
V-W =B to F -1½”( size of the dart taken).
W –X =U-V -1”.
Shape the curve U-X identical to the curve M-L.
Y-W= ½”.
Join X-Y..
Back 

A-B =Full length of the blouse +1”
A-D is scye depth = same as scye depth of front the blouse.
Draw perpendiculars from A,D and B.
A-C= ½ shoulder + ¼”.
Mark D-E=¼ chest +1½”.
Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
I- F=½” .Join E-I.
On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark K on A-B such that A-K = Back neck depth =1/12th chest or to taste.
Shape back neck curve K-G.
On the line D-E mark H such that D-H = A-C. Join H-C.
On the line H-C mark a point R such that C-R =1”.
Shape the Back scye round R-E.
B-L=1/12th chest +½”. A dart L-M of ½” width and of required length is taken here.

Sleeves

A-B= sleeve length + ½”.
K-A =1"for folding.
From the points B , A and K draw perpendiculars.
B -C is as A-D = scye depth of the body taken while drawing body draft + ½" to 1½ “.
For smaller sizes B-C is equal to the scye depth .
B-C =K-L.
Join C-L.
Mark D on the line C-L such that D-C =1/8th chest -½”. It should be between 3 to 3½”
B-J = 1”.
Join D-B .F is the middle point of D=B . F-H =¾”
G is the middle point of D-F. I-G= ½”
Shape the front scye curve of the sleeves D-I-F- J-B and Back scye curve of the sleeves D-H-J-B.
A-E = ½ sleeve round + 1" for seams.Join L-E.

Parts of a blouse



Prepare the draft and separate each part.Label all pattern pieces..Mark" place on fold" on the center-line of the back.Add 1/2" extension along the line of opening of the front to attach button-stands.(shown by shaded area)Mark the center of sleeve top.
Place the parts of the draft on the fabric and cut the parts
Stitching
Step 1 Stay stitch neck,armscyes and sleeve top.

Step 2 Stitch darts.

Step 3 Attach the belt to the body.

Step 4 Stitch button stands. Right side should overlap the left side. Extension is stitched to the left side and right side is finished with a facing.

Step 5 Join shoulders.

Step 6 Finish neck line with Piping or flat facing

Step 7 Hem the lower edge of the sleeves and back.

Step 8. Attach sleeves to the body, matching center line of the sleeves to the shoulder line and easing wherever necessary.

Step 9 Stitch sides of the sleeves and body.

Step 10 Sew hook on the underside of right button stand and work eyes on the right side of left front facing

Simple Kurthi & Angarakha style kurthi

Kurthi is shorter version of simple Kameez. Usually its length reaches the hips. It can be stitched with various types of fabric. It can be stitched short or long with various types of neck and sleeves. Draft of Kurthi is same as the draft of simple kameez except for its length. The length of Kurthi is measured from the nape of neck to hip.

Angarakha style Kurthi is one such variation. It's got a specific cut to it, in which it opens from the front and overlaps to the side, and is typically tied with a hook or a dori

Method of drafting simple Kurthi

Prepare a draft by following the method of drafting Simple kameez .Shorten its length till hip-line or to taste.This is Kurthi draft.

Method of converting simple Kurthi draft to Angarakha stye Kurthi

Back

Keep the back as it is.There is no change.

Left front

Step 1

Place the draft of Kurthi front on a sheet of paper and draw the out line. Add 2”allowance outside the center front line A-B.

Step 2

Change the neckline to curved V shape.as shown in figure 1


Right front

Step 1

Fold the extension of the Kurthi left front (just now prepared) back on the line A-B. Place it on a folded sheet of paper such that line A-B falls on the fold of the sheet of paper. See figure 2

Step 2

Draw the outline of the draft.Cut along the line and open the fold. Shape the neck curve extension the as shown in the figure by dotted line. This divides the draft into two parts-Part 1 and part 2.

Step 3

Cut and remove the shaded part 2 .The remaining portion part 1 is Kurthi right front.

Sleeves

same as Kameez sleeves

Anarkali top with panels flaring from the waist

Method of drafting Panels starting from waist line.

Refer the draft   . Fig 4.     Pin panel No 1 on a sheet of paper extend the line U-V on both directions to the points 5 and 6 by 3” or to taste, as shown in the above figure . Join the points 5 and 6 to the points I and I’ respectively which are the points of intersection of the panel lines to the waist line. Follow the same procedure to add flare to other side panels. For the middle panel line is extended on only one side.

Anarkali dress top with panels

Using basic Anarkali top bodice draft various other styles of Anarkali tops can be drafted .Anarkali top with panels is one of them. Even in this there are two types. In one type Panels flare from the bust line. In the other panels flare from the waist line.

 Anarkali top with panels flaring from the bust line

Method of drafting

Step 1



Place the draft of the front and back of bodice of Anarkali top on a paper as shown in the figure 1 Fold of the draft should fall on the fold of the sheet of paper.Trace the out line of the draft.Mark back and front shapes of armhole and neck.Remove the draft.

step 2


On the fold of the paper mark point Y such that A –Y is equal to the length of the dress. From the point Y draw a perpendicular line Y-U such that Y-U =E-G. Join U-G. Now we have to divide chest line F-D in to panels of equal width. If the chest line is not devisable equally add the reminder to the side panels. On the chest line F-D mark points P, Q and R such that such that side panels F-P =P-Q= Q-R.and the middle panel R-D = ½ Q-R. Through these points draw linesX-X', W-W', and V-V' parallel lines to the line Y-A. These lines divide the front and back of the dress into seven equal parts each. R-D, which is on the fold, is the middle panel. In this manner we can make as many panels as we want. See Figure 2 .

Step 3



Transfer these lines to the fold of the paper which is below keeping carbon paper between the folds of the paper. Cut along L-K-T-F-G-U-Y-L. Separate the sheets by cutting on the fold lineY-L.Take away one sheet which is below.This is the draft for the half portion of back. On the other sheet which is on the top cut the front neck line K-M and front armhole shape T-N-F. This is half portion of the front. See Figure 3. Number the panels as shown in the figure. Numbering the panels is important as we have to stitch them together in the same order.
Panel 1, 2 and 3 are side panels of the front
Panel 4 is half of the middle panel of the front
Panel 5 is half of the middle panel of back
Panel 6, 7 and 8 are side panels of the back

Step 4 

 



Divide draft into panels by cutting along lines X-X' , W-W' and V-V' and separate the panels as
shown in the figure 4.

step 5
Method of adding flares to the side panels

Pin panel No 1 on a sheet of paper extend the line U-V on both directions to the points X and Y by 3” or to taste, as shown in the figure5 These points X and Y should be joined to the points F and P’ which are the points of intersection of the panel lines to the bust line. Cut along the outline of the shape. Follow the same procedure and add flares to remaining side panels .While cutting the fabric side panels should be cut in duplicate. One set for the right side and the other set for the left side.

step 6
Method of adding flare to the middle panel
 


Pin the panel 4 on to a folded sheet of paper such that the line Y-L is on the fold. Produce Y-X to A such that X-A is 3”. Join R-A.cut along the line-A-R-X’-L-D-E-Y and open the fold. This is Back middle panel .Follow the same procedure for the front middle panel 5. Cut along the line A-R-X’-M -D-E-Y . Open the fold.This is the front middle panel.See figure 6.







Add ½” seam for all the panels as shown in the Figure. Mark the seam line.

Stitching.

Stay stitch neckline, armscye and slant cut of the panels.It is better to Tack the panels together and then machine stitch.This prevents the panels from streching.stitch the rest of the dress as usual..

Anarkali salwar set top

Anarkali salwar top has two portions, bodice portion and skirt portion.It is figure-hugging till the upper torso and below that, it turns into a frock and gets a lot of flare.Length of the bodice will be up to lower border of the ribcage . Anarkali suits are worn with churidars . This dress can be stitched with plain sleeve, ¾ sleeve, full sleeve or sleeveless. Skirt can be gathered,pleated , flared , half circular or circular.
Circular cut skirt is also called umbrella skirt. There will be no side seams and no gathers in the waist.It requires material with wider width. If material with wider width is not available it can also be stitched by joining two pieces together such that joint comes at the back of the skirt.Anarkali dress looks good if it is stitched with flowing material like chiffon

method of drafting

Measurements need

Chest
Waist
Shoulder
Bodice length- measured from shoulder line near the neck to the lower border of the ribcage. (depends upon one's taste also )
Full length - from shoulder line to bottom of the dress.
Sleeve length
Sleeve round


Body front and back

A-E =Bodice length +1"
A-D =¼ chest -1”
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, and E
A-B =½ shoulders + ¼”
A-K = Neck width =1/12th chest or to taste
A-L =Back neck depth =1¾” or to taste
A-M = front neck depth 1/8th chest or to taste
D-F =¼ chest +1½” (if loose fitting is needed 2 “to 2½” can be added)
Mark point S on D-F such that D-S =A-B. Join B-S. On this line mark N such that S-N = 1½”
N-O = ¾”
Mark T on B-S such that B-T = 1”. Join K-T. Shape back neck K-L, front neck K-M as shown.
Shape front arm scye T-N-F and Back arm scye T-O-F
E-G =D-F and G-I =½”. Join F-I
Mark U on E-G such that E-U = 1/12th chest+ 1/2"
P-U= length of the dart = 1/6th chest

Skirt


B-D =1/6th waist
A-D=Full length -bodice length +1½”
From B draw perpendicular B-C.
B-E =B-D and E-C = A-D Shape D-E and A-C as shown in the figure

Sleeves

refer here

Layout

Bodice




Place the draft prepared on the fabric as shown in the lay out and cut the different parts . While cutting the bodice back an extra extension of 1½” is added along the line L-E for button stands( shaded area). If the material is not wide enough ¼” of the extension is added for seams along the line L-E and while stitching separate pieces are attached.

skirt

Skirt is generally cut without a seam at the circumference if the material if wide enough. When the width of the material is not wide enough same material can be joined at one side. While stitching care must be taken to keep the joint at the back.

Step 1




Place the draft on the material and mark the outline. Mark the place A –B where extra piece to be added.
Step 2

 



Cut the extra piece of material beyond the outline.
Attach it along the line A-B taking care to match the grain.

Step 3




Place the draft on the fabric thus stitched and cut the draft

Stitching

1. Stay stitch neck line, Shoulders, armscyes and top of the sleeves.
2. Stitch button stands (Plackets)
3. Stitch darts of width ¼ “
4. Stitch neck by giving piping or flat facing or fitted facing
5. Hem the sleeve edges.
6. Stitch the sides of the sleeves and sides of the bodice.
Measure the waist.
7. Cut a slash of 3” in the waist line of the skirt .Stitch it with continuous bound placket.
Measure the waist of the skirt. It should be equal to the waist of the skirt.
8. Attach the skirt to the bodice.
9. Finish the Curved bottom of the skirt by hemming