Front
Divide the neck curve H-F in to 4 equal parts by marking
points 1, 2 and 3
Divide the bottom curve line into two equal parts by marking
point 4
Join points 1&4, 2 and E
From the point E draw a line perpendicular to the line 2-E
Produce shoulder line F-L. It meets the perpendicular line
from E at a point M.F-M is the new shoulder line. E-M is the new sleeve bottom
Starting from the
point H cut the draft along the neck line
H-F, then along shoulder line F-M, sleeve bottom, side E-I and finally skirt bottom I-B.
Cut along the line 2-E and separate sleeve from the skirt
portion. There will be 2 layers in the sleeve portion .Keep one and discard the
other. (Figure 2)
Figure 3 |
Arrange and spread
the pieces on a separate sheet of paper as shown in the figure 4. Keep the
pieces 3” apart and keep 6” apart near the bottom.½” seam allowance along the
line 2-E, for both front and back skirt draft.[i]
Cut all-around the pieces as shown by green dotted line. This gives the draft
of the skirt portion. If you want more gathers you can keep the pieces still
away from each other.
Figure 4 |
Back
Sleeves
Cut along the dotted line from point 3 till Point N. Do not
separate them at the point N as in Step1 in Figure5
. Arrange them on a different sheet of paper as shown in step 2 in Figure 5.Fix the pieces with pins so that they will not move when you cut the new draft. Add ½” seam allowance along the line 2-E on either side of the sleeve draft. Cut along the green dotted line as shown instep 3 of Figure 5
. Arrange them on a different sheet of paper as shown in step 2 in Figure 5.Fix the pieces with pins so that they will not move when you cut the new draft. Add ½” seam allowance along the line 2-E on either side of the sleeve draft. Cut along the green dotted line as shown instep 3 of Figure 5
Thus pattern pieces for new style of dress is got. (Figure 6)
Finish the sleeve the sleeve edge with simple hem or piping
or by attaching a lace.
Keeping right sides
together join sleeves to the to skirt as shown in the figure 7
Make a slash of 3” for opening at the front or back of the skirt
in the middle of the neck curve. Finish it with continuous bound placket .Finish
the neck by bias flat facing to pass draw string. This is suitable for baby's dress
Or you can gather neck curve by running two rows of long machine stitch and finish with piping..
Keeping right sides together join the sides.
Stitch the hem of the skirt.