Method of preparing continuous bias

Take a piece of rectangular fabric A-B-C-D .On the wrong side mark a true bias line X-Y. Draw parallel lines to this line at equal intervals. Keep the distance between the lines equal to the width of the bias strip needed. Mark a point P on the first line ¼ “ away from the corner point X. Mark another point Q on the second line , on the opposite side ¼” from the edge A-D.

Right sides together fold the fabric lengthwise. Take threaded needle pass the needle at the point P and then through the point Q. (see Figure 2)

 Tack the edges together with ¼” seam along black line. (Refer figure 1) See how a continuous line has formed! (Refer Figure 3)

Machine stitch. Secure the stitching by stitching once again on the first stitch. Press the seam open. (Refer Figure 4)

 Start cutting from the part of the line 1 as shown in the figure 5.

Continue cutting round and round on the marked lines. You will get continuous bias strip (Figure 6)

Continuous bound placket

A placket is an opening that allows clothing to be put on or removed easily; it has got two parts the extension and the facing. Facing falls above the extension .Some call it as under placket and top placket. It is also called single button stand and double button stand. In Kannada it is called “Gundi Patti". When we use hooks and eyes or bars are used eyes or bars are sewn in the extension and hooks are sewn on the facing. When press snaps are used   snaps are sewn on the extension and balls are sewn on the facing at back side of the garment. If buttons are used buttons are sewn on the extension and button holes are made on the facing. In ladies garments extension is sewn in the left front and the facing is sewn in the right front.Continuous bound placket is one of them.

Continuous bound placket provides a strong lapped finish for a garment opening. It is suitable for children's dresses ,petticoats and for sleeve openings with cuff or a band.

Method of preparing bias strips

Bias strips are very essential for sewing. It is also called cross piece.It is used for curved edge as well as straight edge finishes. Fabric tubes are prepared from bias strips and used for decorating neck and sleeve edges.
Method of preparing Bias strips

Fold fabric on bias along the line G-H as shown in the figure 1. To get true bias strips fold line should be at 45° to the grain lines .(selvedges}Mark lines at equidistance and parallel to the fold .The distance between the lines depends upon the width of the bias tape needed. Cut along the lines A-B, C-D, E-F and the fold line G-H. It is always advisable to prepare true bias strips as it stretches well. Sew them together using ½” seam. To secure the stitching one more line of stitching is done above the previous line. Open the seam and press. Figure 2 and 3 show the method of joining the bias strips

Method of taking measurements from a blouse

Fold the measurement blouse in to 4 folds as shown leaving the extension of the placket outside

A-C = shoulder width + ¼” .While taking this measurement place a scale along the dotted line.

C-D = Chest + 1” for seams. Seam allowance can be kept more to adjust the size.

E-F = Full length + 1½” for folding.

G-E = Waist + seam allowance that is equal to the  seam allowance added for chest.

I-J = Sleeve length + 1½” for folding

L-K = Scye depth

I –P = Sleeve width + seam allowance equal to the  seam allowance  added for chest.

P-Q = Sleeve   width + seam allowance equal to seam allowance  added for chest.

R-S = Biceps width + seam allowance equal to seam allowance   added for chest.
L-M = Neck width -1/4".While taking this measurement Place a scale along the dotted line
N-O = Neck depth .  While taking measurement place a scale along the dotted line