Friday, September 27, 2013

My trial of sewing Bharathanatyam costume continued ....

stitching

I have used drawing as well as pictures to explain the procedure. In some steps I have used only pictures as I had forgotten to take snaps.
Using the draft prepared cut pattern pieces in duplicate.
(Figure 5 & 6).

pattern pieces

Leg pieces

Fold the edges K-l and L-D of sidepieces  back  by ¼” and press.Place it on the lining material keeping right side of the lining and wrong side of the silk material together and stitch.                            ( Figure 7 and 7 a).




Leaving 4” from the bottom and 2” from crotch divide the rest of the cloth in to 2 equal parts by drawing three slant lines(Figure 8 & 8 a ).



Stitch zari borders along these lines (Figure 9 and 9 a ).



Place the silk layer on the lining material ( Figure 10& 10 a) and tack as shown .





Follow the procedure for both leg pieces.

Fold corner B of the top silk layer back( Figure 11 & 11 a)





Place one leg piece on the other, keeping the silk layers inside (Figure 12 & 12 a), 
stitch crotch lines as shown in figure .



Stitch sides of leg pieces( Figure 13). 




Turn inside out( Figure 14).


.

 Open the top flap out.( Figure 15).


 Stitch border to the cloth of big fan.



Stitch short edge of the fan cloth to the outer flap as shown in
 Figure 17.


Do the same thing for the other side also.(Figure 18)


Bring inside out and top stitch on fan cloth.( Figure 19)



Keeping fan cloth and outer flap together stitch one more line 1½"away from the edge.( Figure 20)


On the right side of the flap ( behind the two stitching line) stitch border as shown in figure 21


Pin the centre of the big fan to the  front crotch line and make pleats of equal width
 on either side, and turn the pleats to the centre.( Figure 22)


Secure the flaps and pleats in position by stitching 2 or 3 rows of stitches at the top as shown in the Figure 23.


Stitch border to the bottom of the costume and stitch the gap between X-Y.Stitch casing to pass the  draw thread.( Figure 24 )

Pyjama portion is ready.

 I am very  thank full to Екатерина Ш. who gave me following suggestion.It is a very good suggestion.

“Dear Vani, thanks a lot for publishing this precious method, which I coldn't find any were in the net! I had to unstitch my old costume for understanding the cutting. One little addition to pattern - sometimes crotch line of the front piece is made 2-2.5 inch longer than back piece for horizontal pleat made in crotch seam. This pleat provides easy movement such as sitting in muramandi and high lifting of the leg to the side and back”
If you want increase the crotch length in front draft of the lining will be like this.



Will be continued in newer post.

Photobucket



18 comments:

Екатерина Ш. said...

Dear Vani, thanks a lot for publishing this precious method, which I coldn't find anywere in the net! I had to unstich my old costume for understanding the cutting.
One little addition to pattern - sometimes crotchline of the front piece is made 2-2.5 inch longer than backpiece for horizontal pleat made in crotch seam. This pleat provides easy movement such as sitting in muramandi and high lifting of the leg to the side an back.

vani said...

Thank you for the suggestion. I did not know this.It was not there in the dress I saw.I had hired a costume to find out how it is stitched.Many had asked me to post tutorial about the method of stitching the dance dress.I tried it.I felt it came out well. So i thought of sharing it.

Rhianna said...

Your diagrams and instructions are great.

onesmallpot.com said...

Wow aunty this looks brilliant. One of the hardest things to make as far as I understand. Will ask you to make my next costume!

vani said...

Thank you all.

Swati said...

Thank you for posting this treasure! Am eagerly awaiting the next installment!

Craftyme said...

May I please have your email I have some questions I want to ask you

asr lakshmi said...

nice costume
fancy saree in hyderabadfor visit my website

Usha Suresh said...

your cowl shirt tutorial is great I will try it out Can you please tell me how to cut Punjabi dress and please tell me where you stay in Bangalore I would be glad to meet you when I come there

vani said...

Hi Usha
Please see the list in the right hand side of my blog.you will find it there

Viji GKrishnan said...

Dear Vani,
I just came across your blogger site.
I could say beautiful treasure.I found lots of good and use full things to learn . I was looking for our Indian nightie pattern and stitching instructions which I could not find anywhere in the net. I live in USA and I always like our Indian things a lot. I want to stitch so many things and I found here nice and easy instructions for everything. Please Can I copy the patterns and instructions ? could you please give me permission to do ?

thank you for your advanced considerations

Viji gopal
vgppsivam@gmail.com

my full names is
Vijayalaksmi Gopalakrishnan
vgppsivam@gmail.com

Ann R said...

Hello Madam, I'm really happy to find this tutorial. I can't find bharatanatyam costume in my country so I decided to do my very own. Can you please tell me how the two rows of stitches are made in the pleats? Thank you so much and sorry for the silly question.

vani said...

Hi Ann
You click on figure 23 you will see the instruction typed on the image.

Sujanitha Mahalingam said...

Mam could you tell me how to stitch the pleats and should I iron the pleats

vani said...

I have explained in figures 22 and 23.you have to iron the pleats .Figure is self explanatory.
Observe carefully you will understand.you have to iron each pleat and secure them together as shown in figure 21.

Kavya Sathyamoorthy said...

Can I get the pictures without water mark ma'am?

vani said...

There is a purpose for putting watermark.So I cannot remove.By the way why do you want it to be removed?

Solah Baras said...

Hello Vani Auntie,
I have a question about Bharatanatyam costume alteration.
I was given a skirt costume for my daughter and it is a bit short, by an inch or two. I was thinking of getting a piece of cloth stitched on top of skirt, will that work? Also better yet, do you know if a skirt costume can be 'converted' to a pant costume? Looking at the costume itself, it has lot of cloth left over by way of pleats. I will eventually take it to one of the professionals.
Please advise.
Thanks.