Method of sewing simple basic night dress

 Bodice draft of simple kameez can be used to prepare the draft of night dress.Night dress is easy fitting garment.Hence extra ease is added to bust and hip measurements. Scye depth is increased by ½ ".If  the dress is stitched with  sleeves, width of the sleeve is also increased according to taste.Length of the dress is also depends upon the taste.
 I feel cotton material is  with dainty prints are suitable  for night dress.

Measurements needed

1.Shoulder

2.chest

3.full length 

Method of preparing the draft

Draft

Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper.

Mark point A on the fold.

From point A draw a perpendicular line to the fold. On this line mark C such that A-C =½ of Shoulder width + ¼”.

A-J = Neck width =1/12th chest + ¼” or to taste.

A-K =Back neck depth = 2” or to taste.

A-L =Front neck depth =A-K or to taste.

A-D =1/8 chest +3".

A-E =Waist length + ¼”

A-B = Full length + 1”

From points D, E and B draw perpendiculars to the fold A-B.

On the perpendicular line at D mark point F such that D-F =¼ chest+ 2”

On the line D-F mark G such that A-B =D-G. Join points C and G.

 On the line B-G mark point N such that G-N= 1”

On the same line mark point H such that C-H =¾".Join J-H.

On the perpendicular at B mark point J such that B-J =¼ chest + 10” or to taste. Join F-J.

Perpendicular line drawn from the point E meets the line F-J at point Y. E-I  is the waist line.

 On the line F-J mark point M such that M-J =¾” Join points B and M by a curved line as shown in the figure.

Mark point O such that N-O =¾”.

Method of marking point O

Through the point N draw a line P-Q parallel to D-F Bisect the angle ∟PNC. Z-N is the bisecting line. On this line mark point O.

Shape back neck J- K and Back scye H-O-F.

Shape front neck J-L and front scye H-N- F.

Cut the draft along the lines K-J-H-O-F-I-M-B.

Paper pattern oieces

Separate the two layers by cutting along the fold. Keep the bottom (which has no markings) layer aside. This is draft of the back.

Take the top layer and cut along the front neck line J-L and front scye H-N-F. This is the front of the draft. 

Cutting

Layout

Place the paper draft on the fabric as shown in the layout and cut the pattern pieces

Pattern pieces

Cut an opening X-Y measuring 4”or to taste on the front pattern piece as shown in the above  figure.

Stitching

Finish the neck opening as explained here.

Join front and back by sewing along the shoulder lines.

Stitch sides .

Finish armholes and neck with piping as explained here using bias strips of same material or contrast material.

Finish the hem .

Stitch a belt  using the remaining cloth If you want to tie at the waist line.

Stitch belt carrier bars at two sides at I and I" and at E  on the back and pass the belt.

Simple night dress is ready!

Method of calculating other body measurements from chest measurements

Using chest measurements we can calculate other upper body measurements.This is for standard body measurements.But to get good measurement it is good to take measurement of each part.
Neck= ⅓ chest + 2½"
Waist =chest -5 to 7 "
Seat = Chest + 2 to 4"
Across chest  = ⅛ th chest + 2¼"
Half back =⅙ th chest + 1"
Half shoulder =⅙ th chest 1½ to 2"
Upper arm or biceps =  ¼ chest + 2 to 2½"
Scye depth =⅛ th chest +  2 to 2½"

V neck with flounce collar

Step 1 prepare front and back of bodice having V neck.

Figure 1

Step 2. Fold back the seam allowances of shoulder lines of front and back of the bodice and stick them together along the shoulder lines with cello tape as shown in the figure 2.

Figure 2

Step 3. Place a sheet of paper of paper under the neck portion as shown in the figure 3 and trace the neck line. ( shown by dotted line). Mark the shoulder line with a point or notch.

Figure 3

Draw the collar as shown in figure 4 adding seam allowance along   the three edges expect the neck line.

Figure 4

Cut and remove the collar piece( figure 5).

Figure 5

Divide the collar in to portions by lines as shown in the figure 6.

Figure 6

Cut along the lines till neck line and not through the neck line Figure 7.

Figure 7

Place this on another sheet of paper and spread the collar portions as shown in figure 8 and draw the outline. This is the draft of flounced V neck collar.

Figure 8

Prepare facing of the neck also. Mark shoulder point.

 Cutting.

Cut collar piece and facing in duplicate.

Stitching

Keeping right sides together stitch front and back of the bodice along the shoulder lines.

Sew the outer edge of the collar with Zig-Zag or rolled edge.

Keeping two layers of collar one above the other, right sides together stitch them together along center front line  and center back line .Open seams and press.

Keeping two layers of facing one above the other stitch along  center front line  and center back line. Open seams and press.

 Sandwich collar in between bodice and facing, matching center front, center back and shoulder notches and stitch all the three layers together 1/4" away from the neck edge and then run a line of machine stitch. Turn the facing inside and press and top stitch on the facing. Fold the loose end of the facing and hand sew to the garment with small stitches.V neck with flounce collar is ready.

Method of making pattern for "Low cowl neck line"

Prepare draft of front and back of bodice as in figure 1.

Make a few changes in the above draft to make a pattern of low cowl neck.

Front

From bust point O draw a perpendicular line which meets the center front at F.

Mark point A on shoulder line such that E-A =1½”.

Join A-F.

Mark another point B between points E and A.

Join B- F by a curved line as shown in the (Figure 2).

Back

 Mark A’ on the shoulder line such that E’-A’ = E-A +¼”

Q’-F’ = 1½”.

Join points A’ –F’ by a curved line as shown in the figure 2.

A’- F’ is the new back neck line. Cut along the line A’-F’ and discard the shaded portion (Figure 3). This is the draft of the back for low cowl neck.

Front

Cut along the line F-B from F to till point B without cutting the shoulder line.

Cut along the line F-O till the point O and not through the point O. (Figure 4).

Take a folded sheet of paper and draw a parallel line X-Y 6” below the short edge as shown in

 figure 5.

Place the draft of the front on the folded sheet such that center front F” R’ is on the fold and point A is on the line X-Y. Spread the sections such that point F touches the touches the fold. Secure the positions with pins or mask tape. (Figure 5).

 Turn the folded sheet of paper back along the line X-Y. Draw the shape of the pattern all around as shown by dotted lines. Cut along the dotted lines (Figure 6).

Open the fold on the line X-Y. Draw the shape of facing and cut (Figure 7).

 Open the folds of the draft. This is the draft of the front of the low cowl neck pattern (Figure 8).

  Stitching 


Stitching is same as that of mid-depth cowl.

Method of stitching cowl neck- Mid depth cowl

Cowl is loosely draped bias folds of fabric. It can be created on front and back neckline of dresses, skirts, pants and even on armholes. It gives elegant look for the garment .There are many verities of cowls such as low cowl, high cowl, mid depth cowl.  Pleated cowl etc.

Material used for cowls should drape well. Chiffon, knitted fabric or any woven material which is supple enough to drape is suitable.

Method of sewing mid depth cowl

Prepare the front and back of the bodice block.

We have to make a few changes in the bodice block to stitch cowl neck.

Bodice front

  In Figure 1 E-P is the shoulder line. Curve P-Q is the original neck line. Q-R is the center front. O is the bust point. Draw a perpendicular line O-F from bust point to center front. Mark Point A on the shoulder line E-P from where you want Cowl neckline to drape. This is neckline starting point. Mark point B on the center front between neck and bust level. Cowl falls from point A to point B. join A-B.

Bodice back

E’-P’ is shoulder line .Curve P’-Q’ is the original back beck line. Q’-R’ is back center line. Mark point A’ on the shoulder line such that E’-A’= E-A +¼”.Mark point B’ on the center back such that B’-Q’ =1½”.

Join A’-B’. This is the new neck line of the back.

Cut along the line A-B and A-’B’ and remove the shaded portion of the draft.

Join points A and B. Draw slash line from shoulder tip E to point F. Draw another line C-D In between the lines A-B and E-F as shown in the figure 3.cut the line D-C and F-E till the shoulder line keeping the shoulder line intact. Cut the line F-O till the point O not through the point O.

Take folded sheet of paper and draw a line M-N  6” away from the short edge as shown in

 figure 4.

Sheet above the line M-N is for self-facing.

Place the new draft of the front prepared such that line A-B of the draft touches the line M-N and point B falls on the fold of the paper and secure them with pins. Center front line of the draft which is below bust level is placed on the fold of the paper and secured with pins. Spread the cut sections of the draft as shown in figure and secure them with pins. The edges of the sections which project beyond the fold of the paper are not needed.

 Fold the paper back along the line M-N  as shown in Figure 5. Cut along the dotted line as shown. Trim the edges of the sections which projects beyond the fold of paper.

Unfold the sheet of the paper along the line M-N. Trim the facing as shown. Draft for cowl front is got ( Figure 6).

Layout

Fold the fabric on true bias and place draft of front as shown in Figure 7 and cut the pattern piece.

Back of the bodice and back neck facing is cut as usual.

Bodice back

pattern pieces

pattern pieces

Stitching

Finish back neck with facing.

Finish the edge of the self-facing of the cowl by turning the edge in.

 Align front and back shoulder seams keeping right sides together and secure them with running stitches.

 .

 Fold the self-facing along the cowl line over the back neck line. Now right side of the facing will be together wrong side of the back. Pin the shoulder seam of the bodice to the shoulder seam portion of the facing. Stitch three layers together. 

Turn the facing over the seam allowance. Finish armhole with facing. Finish the hem by turning in and stitching. 

Top with cowl neck line is ready

Method of stitching davani for Bharathanatyam costume

Davani of the Bhatrathanatyam dress has got two parts, front portion and back portion, which are stitched together. Stitching line sits on the shoulder line.  Front portion is pleated but back portion will be plain. strings or cloth patties are attached to the front and back portion to tie around the waist.

Measurements

width
Front length
Back length
Shoulder line width

Method of taking measurements

Method of sewing front portion

Method of sewing back portion

Finished Davani

Method of stitching back piece of Bharathanatyam costume

Draft of back piece

MeasurementsLength of the back piece= length from waist to hip +2½” 

1. Back piece should cover the hip

2. Waist
3. Hip round

Drafting

Back piece

P-Q= length of the back piece +2½”

P-T = ½ hip round + ½”

T-U = 1” for overlap

R is the midpoint of P-T

P-S = P-Q

Join P-S-U by a curved line as shown in the figure.

Small fan

Length ¾ of the curve  U-S or to taste.

Width  34”

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Finished back piece

Method of sewing Davani will be continued.............