Method of making pattern for "Low cowl neck line"

Prepare draft of front and back of bodice as in figure 1.

Make a few changes in the above draft to make a pattern of low cowl neck.

Front

From bust point O draw a perpendicular line which meets the center front at F.

Mark point A on shoulder line such that E-A =1½”.

Join A-F.

Mark another point B between points E and A.

Join B- F by a curved line as shown in the (Figure 2).

Back

 Mark A’ on the shoulder line such that E’-A’ = E-A +¼”

Q’-F’ = 1½”.

Join points A’ –F’ by a curved line as shown in the figure 2.

A’- F’ is the new back neck line. Cut along the line A’-F’ and discard the shaded portion (Figure 3). This is the draft of the back for low cowl neck.

Front

Cut along the line F-B from F to till point B without cutting the shoulder line.

Cut along the line F-O till the point O and not through the point O. (Figure 4).

Take a folded sheet of paper and draw a parallel line X-Y 6” below the short edge as shown in

 figure 5.

Place the draft of the front on the folded sheet such that center front F” R’ is on the fold and point A is on the line X-Y. Spread the sections such that point F touches the touches the fold. Secure the positions with pins or mask tape. (Figure 5).

 Turn the folded sheet of paper back along the line X-Y. Draw the shape of the pattern all around as shown by dotted lines. Cut along the dotted lines (Figure 6).

Open the fold on the line X-Y. Draw the shape of facing and cut (Figure 7).

 Open the folds of the draft. This is the draft of the front of the low cowl neck pattern (Figure 8).

  Stitching 


Stitching is same as that of mid-depth cowl.

Method of stitching cowl neck- Mid depth cowl

Cowl is loosely draped bias folds of fabric. It can be created on front and back neckline of dresses, skirts, pants and even on armholes. It gives elegant look for the garment .There are many verities of cowls such as low cowl, high cowl, mid depth cowl.  Pleated cowl etc.

Material used for cowls should drape well. Chiffon, knitted fabric or any woven material which is supple enough to drape is suitable.

Method of sewing mid depth cowl

Prepare the front and back of the bodice block.

We have to make a few changes in the bodice block to stitch cowl neck.

Bodice front

  In Figure 1 E-P is the shoulder line. Curve P-Q is the original neck line. Q-R is the center front. O is the bust point. Draw a perpendicular line O-F from bust point to center front. Mark Point A on the shoulder line E-P from where you want Cowl neckline to drape. This is neckline starting point. Mark point B on the center front between neck and bust level. Cowl falls from point A to point B. join A-B.

Bodice back

E’-P’ is shoulder line .Curve P’-Q’ is the original back beck line. Q’-R’ is back center line. Mark point A’ on the shoulder line such that E’-A’= E-A +¼”.Mark point B’ on the center back such that B’-Q’ =1½”.

Join A’-B’. This is the new neck line of the back.

Cut along the line A-B and A-’B’ and remove the shaded portion of the draft.

Join points A and B. Draw slash line from shoulder tip E to point F. Draw another line C-D In between the lines A-B and E-F as shown in the figure 3.cut the line D-C and F-E till the shoulder line keeping the shoulder line intact. Cut the line F-O till the point O not through the point O.

Take folded sheet of paper and draw a line M-N  6” away from the short edge as shown in

 figure 4.

Sheet above the line M-N is for self-facing.

Place the new draft of the front prepared such that line A-B of the draft touches the line M-N and point B falls on the fold of the paper and secure them with pins. Center front line of the draft which is below bust level is placed on the fold of the paper and secured with pins. Spread the cut sections of the draft as shown in figure and secure them with pins. The edges of the sections which project beyond the fold of the paper are not needed.

 Fold the paper back along the line M-N  as shown in Figure 5. Cut along the dotted line as shown. Trim the edges of the sections which projects beyond the fold of paper.

Unfold the sheet of the paper along the line M-N. Trim the facing as shown. Draft for cowl front is got ( Figure 6).

Layout

Fold the fabric on true bias and place draft of front as shown in Figure 7 and cut the pattern piece.

Back of the bodice and back neck facing is cut as usual.

Bodice back

pattern pieces

pattern pieces

Stitching

Finish back neck with facing.

Finish the edge of the self-facing of the cowl by turning the edge in.

 Align front and back shoulder seams keeping right sides together and secure them with running stitches.

 .

 Fold the self-facing along the cowl line over the back neck line. Now right side of the facing will be together wrong side of the back. Pin the shoulder seam of the bodice to the shoulder seam portion of the facing. Stitch three layers together. 

Turn the facing over the seam allowance. Finish armhole with facing. Finish the hem by turning in and stitching. 

Top with cowl neck line is ready

Method of stitching davani for Bharathanatyam costume

Davani of the Bhatrathanatyam dress has got two parts, front portion and back portion, which are stitched together. Stitching line sits on the shoulder line.  Front portion is pleated but back portion will be plain. strings or cloth patties are attached to the front and back portion to tie around the waist.

Measurements

width
Front length
Back length
Shoulder line width

Method of taking measurements

Method of sewing front portion

Method of sewing back portion

Finished Davani

Method of stitching back piece of Bharathanatyam costume

Draft of back piece

MeasurementsLength of the back piece= length from waist to hip +2½” 

1. Back piece should cover the hip

2. Waist
3. Hip round

Drafting

Back piece

P-Q= length of the back piece +2½”

P-T = ½ hip round + ½”

T-U = 1” for overlap

R is the midpoint of P-T

P-S = P-Q

Join P-S-U by a curved line as shown in the figure.

Small fan

Length ¾ of the curve  U-S or to taste.

Width  34”

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Finished back piece

Method of sewing Davani will be continued.............

My trial of sewing Bharathanatyam costume continued ....

stitching

I have used drawing as well as pictures to explain the procedure. In some steps I have used only pictures as I had forgotten to take snaps.

Using the draft prepared cut pattern pieces in duplicate.
(Figure 5 & 6).

pattern pieces

Leg pieces

Fold the edges K-l and L-D of sidepieces  back  by ¼” and press.Place it on the lining material keeping right side of the lining and wrong side of the silk material together and stitch.                            ( Figure 7 and 7 a).

Leaving 4” from the bottom and 2” from crotch divide the rest of the cloth in to 2 equal parts by drawing three slant lines(Figure 8 & 8 a ).

Stitch zari borders along these lines (Figure 9 and 9 a ).

Place the silk layer on the lining material ( Figure 10& 10 a) and tack as shown .

Follow the procedure for both leg pieces.

Fold corner B of the top silk layer back( Figure 11 & 11 a)

Place one leg piece on the other, keeping the silk layers inside (Figure 12 & 12 a), 
stitch crotch lines as shown in figure .

Stitch sides of leg pieces( Figure 13). 

Turn inside out( Figure 14).

.

 Open the top flap out.( Figure 15).

 Stitch border to the cloth of big fan.

Stitch short edge of the fan cloth to the outer flap as shown in
 Figure 17.

Do the same thing for the other side also.(Figure 18)

Bring inside out and top stitch on fan cloth.( Figure 19)

Keeping fan cloth and outer flap together stitch one more line 1½"away from the edge.( Figure 20)

On the right side of the flap ( behind the two stitching line) stitch border as shown in figure 21

Pin the centre of the big fan to the  front crotch line and make pleats of equal width
 on either side, and turn the pleats to the centre.( Figure 22)

Secure the flaps and pleats in position by stitching 2 or 3 rows of stitches at the top as shown in the Figure 23.

Stitch border to the bottom of the costume and stitch the gap between X-Y.Stitch casing to pass the  draw thread.( Figure 24 )

Pyjama portion is ready.

 I am very  thank full to Екатерина Ш. who gave me following suggestion.It is a very good suggestion.

“Dear Vani, thanks a lot for publishing this precious method, which I coldn't find any were in the net! I had to unstitch my old costume for understanding the cutting. One little addition to pattern - sometimes crotch line of the front piece is made 2-2.5 inch longer than back piece for horizontal pleat made in crotch seam. This pleat provides easy movement such as sitting in muramandi and high lifting of the leg to the side and back”

If you want increase the crotch length in front draft of the lining will be like this.

Will be continued in newer post.