Eight piece saree petticoat

Measurements
Full length
 Waist round + 2”
 Hip level
 Hip round + 2’
Belt width
 2” extra is added  to the original waist round and hip round  for ease.If you want more you can add more.

A-B =full length –belt width +2”.

From A draw a line A-D perpendicular to line A-B and equal to half of  waist round /8+½”.

Mark C on the line A-B equal to hip level + 1/2".

From C draw a line C-E   perpendicular to A-B and equal to  half hip round /8 +½”.

From the point B draw a line perpendicular to A-B. Join D-E and produce. This line meets the perpendicular line drawn from B at the point F.

On the line D-F mark point H such that F-H = ¼”.

Join G-D by a curved line as shown I the figure.

On the line A-B mark point G such that A-G =¼’

Join G-D by a curved line as shown in the figure.

Cut along the line A-D-E-H-B-C-A. This is the draft of one piece or panel.
. Cut 8 such pieces.

Stitching

Join the sides of 8 panels side by side as shown in the figure 2 .While stitching start from the waist line end and end at the hem line.
 Finally first panel is joined to the eighth panel in the same way leaving 3” from the waist line for opening and stitching the rest till the hem.
 Turn the each side of the opening twice inside with in the seam line and stitch. (Figure2)

Measure the waist line .Cut a strip of cloth PQRS whose width equal to belt width+ 1" and length equal to the waist line + 1”( See Figure 1)
. Fold short edges P-R and Q-S ¼” inch first press and fold again by ¼” and stitch.
 Pin one of the long edges P-Q or R-S to the strip of cloth to the waist line keeping right side of the strip and  the wrong side of the garment together  and stitch having ½” seam allowance.
 Turn the strip up and press.
 Fold the raw edge of the waist band by ½” and press.
Now fold the entire waist band towards the right side of the petticoat and place the folded edge on top of the stitch which is used to attach strip to waistline and stitch.
 Finish the hem by folding it twice . You can also finish the hem by attaching frills or lace. In that case full length A-B should be reduced according to the width of the frill or lace.
 Pass a draw string of required length through the waist band. At least 6”of the band should be outside the waist band. Secure the draw string to the waist band in the middle by a few stitches so that draw string does not come out while washing.

Method of stitching simple salwar

This salwar is a loose garment with plenty of gathers. It has got only 2 pattern pieces. I feel this type of salwar is good for small children.It is very easy to stitch

 Measurements
 Length
Seat
 Bottom round =ankle round + 5”

A – B = ½ of the width of the material or (½ seat + ½ bottom round + 1”)

A-C =crotch level=⅟₄ seat + 4”

A-E =full length + ½”

From the point C draw a line perpendicular to the line A-E and produce it to D such that

C-D =A-B.

Join B-D

On the line C-D mark point H such that D-H = 2”.

On line A-B Mark the point G such that D-H =B-G.

Join G-D by a curved line as shown in the figure 1.

From the point E draw perpendicular line E-F which is equal to half of the bottom round+ 1½” or ankle round + 5”

Join D-F.

Draw a line A’-G’’ parallel to and 2” away from A-G. (Shown by dotted line). This is for casing.

 Layout

Fold the cloth length wise first and then fold it width wise. There will be 4 layers

Place the draft thus prepared on fabric as shown in the figure 2 and cut the pattern pieces. You will get 2 leg pieces.

Stitching

 Bottom round

Take a strip of canvas of width 1½” and length equal to bottom round.Cover it with the fabric used for the garment and stitch as shown in the figure 5.

On the right side of the salwar leg piece,  place the edge X-Y of the   cloth covered canvas piece edge on the bottom line E- F- E’ of the salwar leg piece and stitch.( Figure 6)

Turn the canvas piece to the wrong side of the salwar leg piece and stitch the other edge to the salwar leg piece( figure 7)

Canvas edging can be decorated with lines or any design of your choice.

With right sides together stitch sides of each leg with one row of stitches. Stretchthe cloth by pulling
it along the direction of the line D-F and then run one more row of stitches. (Figure 8)

Turn each side right side out and keep them side by side as shown in the figure 9 and mark ” right leg front” and “left leg  front.”

 On the top of the front crotch line turn in ¼” from G to G’ and stitch as shown in the figure 10.

Turn one leg the right way out and keep other leg wrong way out. (Figure 11).

  Slide the leg that is the right way out  into the leg that is the wrong way out so that right sides are together and side seam against side seam. Pin it so that the seams match and stitch the crotch line from back till the point G in the front (Figure 12).asshown by the black line

Turn it right way.
Now we have to stitch waist.

Near the waist line of the salwar fold in ½” and press. Once again fold in 1½” and stitch all around .This is casing to pass draw string.

Insert a cloth tape through the casing. Salwar is ready to wear