Method of sewing A line frock and Reversible A line frock

Prepare the draft of A line frock

A-B =length + ⅟₂”

A-C =⅟₄ chest +⅟₂”

Draw  perpendicular lines from the points A,C and B. Mark  point D on the  perpendicular line drawn from  A such that A-D =⅟₂ shoulder +⅟₄”

Mark point E on the perpendicular line drawn from the point C such that C-E =⅟₄ chest +1⅟₂”

On the perpendicular drawn from the point B mark Point J such that B-J = C-E + 2”

A-D =C-K. Join D-K.

On the line D-K mark point L such that D-L =⅟₂”

Join the points E-J. On this line Mark point I such that I-J =⅟₂”.

Join band I by a curved line as shown.

A-F = neck width=⅟₁₂ th chest +¼”

A-H = front neck depth ==⅟₁₂ th chest + ⅟₂”

A-G = back neck depth 1”

Join G-F and H-F as shown.

K-M =1”

Shape back scye L-E and front scye D-M-E as shown

Cut along the shape G-F-L-E-I-B.

Cut along the line G-B. Keep one piece aside. This is back draft.

Take the other piece and cut along the curves F-H and L-M-E. This is the front draft.
This is the draft of A line frock.
Reversible A line frock
Prepare the draft of A line frock.
We have to make some changes in the draft of the back for reversible A line frock 

Take the back draft and add an extension X-Y-Z of height 3” as shown in the figure. This can be done by cutting a separate shape and pasting it along the shoulder line.

Method of cutting fabric for  reversible A line frock

Select two fabric pieces with different designs.Call them Fabric type 1 and fabric type 2

Layout

Place the draft prepared on folded pieces of fabric and cut the pattern pieces of each type of fabric as shown in the layout.

Pattern pieces

Pattern pieces

Stitch reversible frock as explained in the following images.

Method of stitching placket open at both ends

Placket is an opening or a slit that allows room for the garment to put on. One edge of the slit is finished by facing and other by extension. Facing is also called “Single button stand. In Kannada it is called “Single Patti”. Extension is called double button stand and “double Patti “Plackets are closed by using hooks and eyes or bars, snap fasteners and buttons and button holes .Usually in ladies garments Facing is stitched to the right-hand side of the garment and extension is stitched to the left side of the garment. Facing overlaps the extension.
When snap fasteners are used the ball part of the snap is positioned on the overlap side of the placket, and the socket on the under lap.
When hooks & eyes or bars are used Hooks are stitched on the facing inside the garment and the bars or eyes are stitched on the extension.
When buttons are used buttons are stitched to the extension or under lap and the buttonholes are done on the facing.
Sari blouse has got a placket which is open at both ends.While cutting the fabric an extension of 1/4" to be added to right and left bodice along the line A-B to attach cloth strips.
  Method of stitching placket opens at both ends

Method of stitching petal sleeve

Step 1
prepare the basic plain sleeve draft (Figure 1) Step 2 Open the fold (Figure 2)


Place this on a folded sheet of paper and cut the shape. This is done as we have to cut the draft in duplicate

Figure 3 shows right and wrong side of the draft. X-Y is the mid line of the draft. A-C and B-D are the sides.

Fold and place sides A-C and B-D on to the center line X-Y as shown in the figure 4
Crease the folds and open. Mark these fold lines as E-F and G-H.
Mark a point O on the line X-Y such that Y-O = 2 to 2½” Join the points B-G and E-D as shown in the figure 4. These lines should pass through the point O.
Copy these lines on the draft below using a carbon paper.

Take one draft and cut along the line B-G. On the duplicate draft cut along the line D-E as shown in the figure 5

We get 2 pieces of the petal sleeve. Add an extra ½” to the sides for seams as shown in figure 6.

There is another method in which we get the sleeve in a single piece. Place line A-B and C-D side by side and join them with cello tape
This is the draft of petal sleeve in one piece.

Method of sewing.

While cutting the fabric mark the points A, X and G by cutting notches.

Double piece petal sleeve

Curves B-G and E-D are sleeve edges. These can be finished with matching lace or piping.See Figure 7 If the material is thin it can be finished with a fitted facing. It gives good finishing.
Curves A-E-X-G and E-X-G-C are to be attached to the armhole.

Place pieces one above the other in such a way Points E, X, G and O coincide. See Figure 8 .Fix these positions by putting a running stitch as shown in the figure. Pin Point X to the shoulder line of the bodice  Points A-and B to the sides of the bodice at the arm pit.Attach the sleeve to the armhole. Sides of the sleeve and bodice are sewn at one stretch.

Single piece petal sleeve. 

Fold the sleeve along the line CA-BD .Overlap the two edges in such a way points E-X- G of one side coincides the points E-X-G on the other side and fix them with running stitch. Sew sides of the bodice
Keeping right sides together pin the bodies to the sleeve. Pin point AC to the side seam of the armpit of the bodice and point X to the shoulder line and sew them together.See Figure 8

 If gathers are need at the top of the sleeve Puff sleeve pattern  is used to prepare the draft

kameez with overlapping bodice

Draft for this style of kameez can be prepared by using simple kameez draft.
Divide the simple kameez draft in to two portions at the waist line
Back
Place the back portion on a sheet of paper and add ½” at waist line for seams.Mark all around and cut.
Right front
Place the front left on a sheet of paper and add extension as shown in the figure. We can change the shape of the curve according to our taste Add ½” at the waist line for seams.Mark all around and cut
Left front
Place the left front on a sheet of paper .Add 1½” extension for the placket (Button stand) Add ½” at the waist line for seams . Mark all around and cut
Bottom portion of the kameez.
Bottom portion of the kameez is cut by adding ½” at the waist line.

Kameez with overlapping front

Preparation of the draft
In ladies garments right front overlaps the left front. Draft of simple kameez is used to prepare this type of kameez draft.

Trace the draft of the right front on a sheet of paper. An extension of 4” Is added as shown by shaded area in the figure 1.

Trace left front on another sheet of paper .An extension of 1½’ is added as shown by shaded area in the figure 1.
There is no change in the draft of the back and sleeves of the kameez
Neck and button stands can be decorated with matching piping or border.

To keep the neck and waist in place press studs are sewn near the neck , waist and center of the garment  inside the garment at A, B, and C as shown in the figure 2 .

Loops or buttons are sewn outside the garment as shown in the figure 3.

Method of preparing continuous bias

Take a piece of rectangular fabric A-B-C-D .On the wrong side mark a true bias line X-Y. Draw parallel lines to this line at equal intervals. Keep the distance between the lines equal to the width of the bias strip needed. Mark a point P on the first line ¼ “ away from the corner point X. Mark another point Q on the second line , on the opposite side ¼” from the edge A-D.

Right sides together fold the fabric lengthwise. Take threaded needle pass the needle at the point P and then through the point Q. (see Figure 2)

 Tack the edges together with ¼” seam along black line. (Refer figure 1) See how a continuous line has formed! (Refer Figure 3)

Machine stitch. Secure the stitching by stitching once again on the first stitch. Press the seam open. (Refer Figure 4)

 Start cutting from the part of the line 1 as shown in the figure 5.

Continue cutting round and round on the marked lines. You will get continuous bias strip (Figure 6)

Continuous bound placket

A placket is an opening that allows clothing to be put on or removed easily; it has got two parts the extension and the facing. Facing falls above the extension .Some call it as under placket and top placket. It is also called single button stand and double button stand. In Kannada it is called “Gundi Patti". When we use hooks and eyes or bars are used eyes or bars are sewn in the extension and hooks are sewn on the facing. When press snaps are used   snaps are sewn on the extension and balls are sewn on the facing at back side of the garment. If buttons are used buttons are sewn on the extension and button holes are made on the facing. In ladies garments extension is sewn in the left front and the facing is sewn in the right front.Continuous bound placket is one of them.

Continuous bound placket provides a strong lapped finish for a garment opening. It is suitable for children's dresses ,petticoats and for sleeve openings with cuff or a band.