Night dress for young girls

This night dress has a shoulder wide round yoke with lining .Gathers of the skirt is sandwiched between the yoke and its lining and stitched. It has got puff sleeves.length of the dress depends according to taste.Yoke and neck can be edged with lace or piping or frills .It has got front opening.Using this draft, sleeveless dress can also be stitched.
Dress
Prepare child’s basic bodice draft as in Fairy’s costume (figure 1)

Separate front and back of the bodice. (Figure 2)

Take a sheet of paper and fold it in to half length wise. A-A’-X-X’ is the folded sheet of paper. A-X is the fold line. Length of the folded sheet A-X should be equal to length of the night gown +1”. And width A-A’ should be equal to or more than line O-D of the bodice draft.
Pin the bodice front on the sheet of paper keeping the edge I-C of the bodice front falls on the fold line A-X and point N falls on the line A-A’. (Figure 3)

Produce D-E to X’ such that O-X =D-X’
Mark P on the line I-C such that I-P =N-G.
Mark point Z on the arm round from where the armhole shape starts to take a curve
Shape the yoke curve P-Z-G Keeping the width of the yoke same throughout. I-N-G- Z-P is the front yoke.
Cut and remove the shape I-N-G-Z-P .This is front yoke folded. Cut and separate along the line I-P. These are right and left front yokes.
Stick these yoke shapes on to another bigger sheet of paper and seams of ½” along the curve .Add extensions for the neck placket, ½” on right front yoke and 1½” on left yoke. (See figure 4.)

The remaining portion of the draft X-C-P-Z--D-E-X’ is used to prepare skirt front.( Figure 5)

Stick another piece of paper behind this draft near the curved line and mark a line ½” above the curved line P-Z .This is for seams. (Figure 6)

Divide the skirt portion in to three equal portions. ( Figure 7 )

On a different sheet of paper draw a line of length equal to twice O-D or to taste. Arrange the panels as shown. Two gaps should be equal to one another. Join the three panels by a new curve P-Z .Cut along the lines P-Z-D-X’-X ( Figure 8 )

Follow the same procedure and prepare back body yoke H-Q-N-G and back skirt Q-Z-G-D-E-Y’-Y
Parts of the night dress

Sleeves
Refer the post     fairy's costume

I am deeply annoyed

I had a nasty shock today while browsing the web. I found some of the contents from my tutorial have been copied and posted word for word in another blog http://www.vanitha.tk/ under the heading"hand work" and the author was passing it off as her own. There is no possibility of her having copied the contents from any book as I had not copied it from any book. I have explained it in my own way. The images are my own. I am very much annoyed to see many of my tutorials that I had posted last year have appeared in her blog this year without any prior permission or acknowledgment.
The posts that she has copied are here
http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/03/denim-pinafore.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/03/simple-dressstiching.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/chudidar-pyjama-method.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/method-of-drafting-pyjama-stiching.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/anarkali-salwar-set-top.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/anarkali-top-with-panels-flaring-from.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/anarkali-dress-top-with-panels-indian.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/peasant-top.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/01/pavada-blouse-blouse-for-long-skirt.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/01/pavada-stitching-long-pleated-skirt.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/01/under-stitching-nack-ect.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/01/method-of-stitching-neck-with-fitted.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/01/method-of-sewing-one-shoulder-dress.html

Another funny thing is she has not seen the spelling mistake that I had made and she has posted without correcting it! I will be very grateful If you write your comments in her blog. By doing so we can put an end to this.
Thanks

Method of sewing a slip or short petticoat

This is a short petticoat. This garment is worn under kurthi or shirts as underwear. While drafting the pattern care must be taken to keep back neck depth and front neck width more than that of Kurthi. While stitching, side slit of 3” to 4 “should be made. This prevents the slip from rolling up.
 

A-G = full length of petticoat needed + ½”
On the line A-G mark the points I, J, C and E such that
A-C = ¼ chest -1”
A-E = waist length.
A-I = back neck depth = 3” or to taste.
A-J = front neck depth 2” less than A-C or to taste.
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, I, J, C, E and G and mark the points on them such that
A-B = ¹/8 chest + ¼”
A-K = 1/12 chest + ½” or to taste
C-D = ¼ chest + 1½” and C-N =A-B. Join B-N. On this line mark M such that B-M = 1” Join K-M
E-F = ½” less than C-D
G-H = C-D + 2” join D-F –H by a curved line.On this line Mark L such that L-H =¾”
Join G-L by a curved line as shown.
Join front neck line K-J and back neck line K-I as shown.
Cut the draft along the line I-K-M-D-F-L and G.
Cut along the line I-J-C-E-G. Keep the portion on which lines are not marked. This is half of the draft of the back.

Take the other portion and cut along the line K-J .This is the front of the draft.

Method of sewing sleeveless blouse

Using a basic bodice draft , a sleeveless blouse draft can be prepared by making certain changes.
In a sleeveless blouse shoulder width should be less than that of blouse with set in sleeves. Or else the shoulder line droops. It is better to have closer fitting underarm seams. If not under garments can be seen through the armhole. These changes can be done by making following changes in the basic draft
 
Trace the draft of the front and back of the bodice. Mark point X along the shoulder line such that R-X is 3/4" .Produce the side line L-K to Y such that K-Y =3/4". Re draw the armhole line as shown by red dotted line .Do the same changes for the back also. Sew armseye with fitted facing to get good finish.Same method can be followed to sew other sleeveless garments

Half umbrella cut skirt.

Prepare the draft of the bodice as explained   here.
Prepare the  skirt as explained below.Join skirt  to the bodice

Method of sewing Magyar blouse

In Magyar sleeves are cut along with the bodice. So there is no need to join sleeve to the bodice. Magyar sleeve can be long or short. It is easy to stitch..
We can prepare the draft of the blouse with Magyar sleeves using the draft of the plain blouse.

Method

 

Arrange the draft of bodice front and back as shown in the figure.
A-B is the shoulder line of the bodice before cutting the shoulder slope. C-D is the center line of the sleeve. Arrange the drafts such that A-B and C-D are in a line .Distance between the points E and G should be equal to the distance between the points F and H.
Mark points I and J such that E-I =F-J.
Mark points K and L such that G-K =H-L.
Shape the curves I-K and J-L as shown.

Method of sewing " One shoulder dress"

Plain frock or an” A” line frock draft can be converted to one shoulder frock. Neck and arm hole is stitched with fitted facing. Interfacing can be sandwiched between the bodice and the facing to keep the shape of the bodice. We can also prepare a casing along the neck line and pass elastic through to keep the neck line in position. In place of the other shoulder spaghetti straps  can be used as support. Satin ribbon bow looks great.



Method of drafting front of the bodice.



Keep A-C on Fold. A-C = Waist length + ½”.
A-O =¼ chest-½”.
From the points A, O, and C draw perpendiculars.
A-B = ½ shoulder width + ¼”
A-N =¹/12th chest +¼” or to taste
A-I =¹/12th chest +½” or to taste
shape neck N-I as shown in the figure
O-D =¼ chest +1½”.O-D =C-E
M-E =⅛” .Join D-M.
B-G =½”. Join N-G
F-J =1”.Shape G-J-D front armhole as shown in the figure.
L is half of C-M.A dart of ⅛” is taken along the line K-L as shown in the figure.
Open the fold of back and front pattern .Now let us do the necessary changes.
Draw a line on the front of the pattern starting from the point N’ on the right shoulder line, going across the front as low as the neck depth and curving to the left armhole.
X is the midpoint of N-B.Draw a perpendicular X-Y to the line N-B it meets the neck curve at Y. Mark that point. Straps are fixed to this point.

Cutting

Back and front drafts are the same. So cut draft in duplicate. Use one for the front and other as back.

Stitching

Stitch the right shoulders together. Finish neckline with  fitted facing  sandwiching interfacing in between. If you want to pass elastic do not use the interfacing. Pass ½” wide elastic whose length is 2” less than the curve of the whole neck line and secure the elastic at the ends.Stitch the sides together. Stitch the darts, Attach the bodice to the skirt portion as usual. Prepare  spaghetti straps by using  Fabric tubes  Fix the spaghetti straps or satin ribbons at the point Y both in front and back of the bodice
I f you want to stitch an “A” line frock take the draft of the front and follow the same method.