Some other designs of pinafore dresses

Denim pinafore

Draw a perpendicular line from the point I to the line A-D.On this line mark point M such that it is just below the mid point of H-C
I-U is the waist length.U-V is 1½" wide..size of the pocket is decided according to the size of the dress and taste.
Draw lines on the Simple pinafore draft as shown in the figure (pink dotted lines).Please refer here
Bib -Cut along U-N-M-I (-IU on fold) ---2 pieces
Waist band- Cut along U-’N’-O-V (U-’V ‘on fold width U-’V’ being double the width U-V in the skirt)—2 pieces
Back skirt - Cut along V-O-H-B (V-B on fold)
Front skirt – Cut along V-T-P-H-B (V-B on fold)
Pocket layer 1 - Cut along S-T-O-P-Q-R--S
Pocket layer 2- Cut along S-T-P-Q-R-S
See the different parts in the figure.
While cutting on the material leave ½” all around except for the sides for seams
Parts 






Stitching

Skirt front -Keep pocket layer 2 on skirt front, right sides together along the curve T-P .clip at 2 or 3 places .turn the pocket layer inside and press.
Keep and pin the skirt front on the right side of the pocket layer 1 such that points T-S-R-Q-P Match (consider all the three layers-Skirt front, pocket layer1 and pocket layer 2).Stitch pocket layer1 to pocket layer 2 along the line S-R-Q Baste the pocket to the skirt along the line S-T and P-Q.Other side of the pocket is also stitched in the same manner.
Stitch the Waist band along V-O to the skirt front keeping wrong side of the skirt and the right side of the band together. Press .Fold ½” along the line U-’N’ and again fold to the front and stitch to the right side of skirt along the line VT. Waist band is attached to the skirt back in the same manner.

Bib

Bias bind arm hole and neck line .Attach bib to the waist band keeping the waist band ½” above the line UN of the bib
Stitch the sides of the skirt together
Shoulder straps –Fold ½” and stitch along the length of the shoulder strap. Attach them to the front and back of the bib.Stitch the bottom hem by folding 1". Finally top stitch .

Simple pinafore dress

Method of drafting





A-B = length of the dress + 1” + 1/2 “
A-D -= I /4 chest+ 1/2”
Draw perpendiculars from A, D and B and mark the points C, E and F as follows:-
A-C = shoulder width + ½ “
D-E=1/4 chest +1” + ½”
B-F = D_E + 2”
A-C =D-L .Mark point G on C-L such that C-G = ½” Join H-G
Join E-F. Mark H such that H-F =1”
A-H = 1/12 chest + ¼”. A-I = 1/12 chest + ½”
A-K=1”
Shape back neck K-H, Front neck I-H.Shape scye C-G-E. Shape bottom .B-H

If the cloth is wide enough button stands can be cut along with the back as shown. Otherwise separate pieces are joined.

 Parts

 Stitching

Join left and right of the back pieces till the button stands. (Shown by dotted line) 

Stitch right and left button stands .Join shoulders .Stitch neck and armholes with matching piping. Stitch

sides. Finally fold bottom by 1” and hem.

How to fix sari fall

Selecting fall
Usually we select fall that matches the border. For light colour sari I prefer to select fall which matches the body colour. If the colour of the fall bleeds whole sari will be spoiled.
Selecting the thread
Selection of the colour of thread depends upon the place where the stitches fall.
Preparing the fall
Soak the sari fall in salt water for 15 minutes, wash, dry and iron.
Stitching the fall
Stitch the side edges of the fall with machine or hand stitch.
Lower edge of the sari is stitched with small running stitches adding back stitches in-between. Daily ware sari is can be stitched by machine with zig- zag stitch.
Step 1

Spread the sari on a flat surface. Secure the fall with pins to the sari so that there or no wrinkles. Thread

the needle with one strand of matching thread (I have used different thread so that it is easily visible in the

image.). Bring the needle out at A from the back of the fall.

Step 2

Take a small stitch BC (Go down at B come out at C) on the sari just below the point A
Step 3

From the point D near to A( point D should be very close to Point A) Take Big stitch DA'.This stitch should

be under the fall only. Stitch should not visible on the sari.( please see the line diagram also) Stitches AB

and CD will be together like two vertical stitches. These stitches are seen in the image” step 1 repeat “

these are one set of stitches.
Start second stitch from A' and continue.This is called slip stitch
Step 1 repeated

Right side of the sari

Six piece sari petticoat

Measurements needed
Waist
Hip- measured around the widest part of the hip. Usually 7” or 8"
below the waist line.
Full length
Width of the waist band.
Instructions for drafting
Line A-F should fall on the fold
A-F= full length –Waist band width .
Mark point D on A-F such that A-D =7 “or 8”
Draw perpendiculars from A, D and F
A-B =1/8 waist +1/2”
A-C =1/2 “
D-E =1/8 hip + ½”
Join B-E and produce. This line meets the perpendicular drawn from F at G.
G-H =1/2”
Shape B-C and F-H
Cut along C-B-H and F
Cut along the folding line C-F and separate the sheets.

Layout 

Fold the material twice, making 4 layers. Place the paper draft on the cloth as shown in the figure B and cut.

Parts


 

We get 6 panels 2 central panels, 2 right side panels and 2 left side panels as shown in figure C

Stitching 







Join the side panels to the central panel. 2-8 to 3-9, 4-10 to 5-11. Do the same thing to the other set .We get 2 pieces A and B, one set for back and the other for front. as shown in the figure D

Now we have to join front to back.Keeping right sides together join front to back. Join 1-5 to 4-8. On the other side keep an opening of 6”. Join9-6 to 10-7.Do not stitch the portion 2-9 and 3 -10 together.Turn them inside and stitch separately. This is the side opening.

waist band

Measure the top of the petticoat (waist line) and cut a waist band ABCD 6” wide and length equal to the top of the petticoat + I”. Fold ½” on ends A-C and B-D of the waist band and stitch. Fold ½” along A-B and C-D and crease Open the side A-B and attach it to the petticoat top from inside. Keep right side of the band and the wrong side of the petticoat together and stitch on the crease made earlier .Fold the band length wise stitch the edge C-D to the waist line so that the fold just covers the machine stitching at the waist line. Turn the bottom of the petticoat by 1” and stitch.-Run a draw string along the waist band.

How to stitch the neck opening

If the neck is small an opening can be made in front or back of the garment,Mark opening a-b on the garment.Do not cut.Cut a piece of facing P Q X Y, 4” wide and and the length being 2”more than the length of the opening.Mark the line of the opening of the same length on the facing also. Turn1/4 “ under on sides and bottom of the facing ( x-p, p-q and q-y). Fold the facing on the line a-b.Place the edge against the line a-b marked on the garment,keeping right sides together.Line a-b on the garment should coincide with the line a-b on the facing.Secure them with pins.Stitch along the m-b and n-b. (Slant lines} m-a = a-n =1/4” Reinforce at the point b.Cut along the line a-b taking care not to cut the stitches.Turn the facing to the wrong side.Crease along the seam line and press.Hem the edges x-p,p-q and q-y to the garment.

How to stitch a nightie

Front and Back
Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper keeping A-N along the fold.
A-B =I/2 of  Shoulder width + ¼”.
A-F = Neck width =1/12 chest + ¼” or to taste.
A-G =Back neck depth = 2” or to taste.
A-H =Front neck depth =A-F or to taste.
A-D =1/8 chest +3”.
A-L =Waist length + ¼”
A-N = Full length + 1”
Draw perpendiculars from D, L and N
D-C =A-B. Mark point I such that I-C = 1”
Join B-I.On the line B-I mark E such that B-E =3/4"
D-J =1/4 chest + 2” or to taste.
L-K = D-J. Mark O such that O-K = ½” or to taste.
N-M =¼ chest + 10” or to taste. Join O-M.
M-P =3/4”.
Join points F-E, J-O and O-P. Shape P-N.
Shape back neck F-G and Back scye E-J.
Shape front neck F-H and front pcye E-I-J. (Shown in pink lines)
Cut along the line G-F-E-J-O-P-N.
Open the fold. Cut along folded line. Separate the sheet on which lines are not marked. This is the draft for the back of the nightie.
On the other portion of the sheet on which lines are marked cut the front neck shape F-H and front scye shape E-I-J.This is the draft for the front of the nightie.

Sleeves




Draw the draft on folded sheet of paper keeping A-C on folded line.
A-C =Sleeve length +1/4”
A-X = 1” for folding.
Mark point B. Such that B-C =1/8 chest.
Drop perpendiculars from X-A-and B.
A-D = Sleeve width =Half of sleeve round + ¾” for seems.
B-G = biceps = 1/8 chest + 3”.
X-F is marked a bit longer than A-D as shown the figure. This gives a good finish for the hem.
Join X-F-D-G-C.
Mark H such that H-C =1”. And Mark I such that I-G = 2”.
Shape G-H -C (back side of the sleeve).
Shape G-I -H -C (front side of the sleeve- pink line).
Cut along X-F-G-H -C. Open fold. Cut along the pink line G-I -H -C.

cutting



Prepare paper drafts of the parts of the nightie as described .Fold the material such that selvedges come to sides and right side together .Keep the fold line of the daft on the fold line of the material and cut. Open the fold of the draft of the sleeve. Place it on folded material and cut two sleeves together. While cutting plain material care should be taken not to cut two left sleeves or two right sleeves

Stitching

Stay stitch neck line, shoulders, armsyes and top of the sleeve .This avoids stretching of the fabric while handling. Join front and back bodice at shoulders. Stitch sleeve hem. Attach sleeve to the bodice taking care to match body front to sleeve front. Stitch neck line with bias binding. Stitch front and back sides of sleeves and bodice. Hem the bottom of the bodice.