My trial of sewing Bharathanatyam costume continued ....

stitching

I have used drawing as well as pictures to explain the procedure. In some steps I have used only pictures as I had forgotten to take snaps.

Using the draft prepared cut pattern pieces in duplicate.
(Figure 5 & 6).

pattern pieces

Leg pieces

Fold the edges K-l and L-D of sidepieces  back  by ¼” and press.Place it on the lining material keeping right side of the lining and wrong side of the silk material together and stitch.                            ( Figure 7 and 7 a).

Leaving 4” from the bottom and 2” from crotch divide the rest of the cloth in to 2 equal parts by drawing three slant lines(Figure 8 & 8 a ).

Stitch zari borders along these lines (Figure 9 and 9 a ).

Place the silk layer on the lining material ( Figure 10& 10 a) and tack as shown .

Follow the procedure for both leg pieces.

Fold corner B of the top silk layer back( Figure 11 & 11 a)

Place one leg piece on the other, keeping the silk layers inside (Figure 12 & 12 a), 
stitch crotch lines as shown in figure .

Stitch sides of leg pieces( Figure 13). 

Turn inside out( Figure 14).

.

 Open the top flap out.( Figure 15).

 Stitch border to the cloth of big fan.

Stitch short edge of the fan cloth to the outer flap as shown in
 Figure 17.

Do the same thing for the other side also.(Figure 18)

Bring inside out and top stitch on fan cloth.( Figure 19)

Keeping fan cloth and outer flap together stitch one more line 1½"away from the edge.( Figure 20)

On the right side of the flap ( behind the two stitching line) stitch border as shown in figure 21

Pin the centre of the big fan to the  front crotch line and make pleats of equal width
 on either side, and turn the pleats to the centre.( Figure 22)

Secure the flaps and pleats in position by stitching 2 or 3 rows of stitches at the top as shown in the Figure 23.

Stitch border to the bottom of the costume and stitch the gap between X-Y.Stitch casing to pass the  draw thread.( Figure 24 )

Pyjama portion is ready.

 I am very  thank full to Екатерина Ш. who gave me following suggestion.It is a very good suggestion.

“Dear Vani, thanks a lot for publishing this precious method, which I coldn't find any were in the net! I had to unstitch my old costume for understanding the cutting. One little addition to pattern - sometimes crotch line of the front piece is made 2-2.5 inch longer than back piece for horizontal pleat made in crotch seam. This pleat provides easy movement such as sitting in muramandi and high lifting of the leg to the side and back”

If you want increase the crotch length in front draft of the lining will be like this.

Will be continued in newer post.