Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Method of drafting plain sleeve




Measurements needed
Sleeve length
Sleeve round
Chest
Mark B-D on fold = Sleeve length +½” (Shaded portion is 1” for in turn for plain sleeve.)
D-C =1/12 Th chest+½”
Draw perpendiculars from D, C, and B
D-E =¼ chest -1”
D-E =C-F
B-J= half sleeve round + ½”
Join D-F and F-J
Divide D-F into four equal parts by points G,H and I. Draw perpendiculars from those points such that
G-K= ¼”, H-L=½” and I-M=¼”
Join the points F-K-H-M-D by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the front portion of the sleeve.
Join the points F-L-D -by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the back portion of the sleeve.
Cut the paper draft along the line B-J-F-L-M-D. Open the fold .and cut along the curved line F-K-H-M-D.
This is the draft of basic plain sleeve. Outline of the draft is traced on a fairly thick card board and a block is prepared which can be used as foundation for all other types of sleeves.

16 comments:

  1. Hi Vani,

    Just one doubt in the plain sleeve draft. Does the draft include the seam allowances or is it to be included while cutting the fabric?

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  2. Hi sunitha
    seam allowance is include din the draft

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  3. hi vani,

    i have a doubt, this draft of the plain sleeve is different from the sleeve draft which is given in simple kameez. kindly clarify.

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  4. hi vani,

    i have a doubt, the draft in this is different from the sleeve draft given in plain kameez post. kindly clarify.

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  5. Both are correct.you follow the method which gives you good fit.there are various ways of calculating.

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  6. hello Vani,

    One doubt. DE and CF is 4 and 1/2, DJ comes to 7 and 1/2. But in your figure, it seems BJ is less than CF. Could you please clarify.
    in my measurement, slv round is 7 and chest is 22.

    Regards,
    Sharmila

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  7. B-J = 3 1/2+ 1/2=4"
    C-F = 4 1/2"
    B-J is smaller than C-F

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  8. Hi Vani, can you pls let me know if this plain sleeve draft can be used for boys as well. Regards Esme

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  9. liked your method of drafting.my chest is 44. i tried to do your method but there it does not show inclusive of extras seem. cos i read in the previous comments. you said it does include seem please clarify.

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  10. when it is given + some thing it means seems is included,if you want more you have to add extra.

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  11. Looking at your Kameez sleeve instructions and comparing it to this I believe you forgot to put: 1/2 sleeve round + 1/2" for BJ.
    This is why in the figures BJ is indeed smaller than CF.

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  12. Thanks for Pointing out my mistake. I I have corrected it

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  13. Hi madam. Can I use this sleeve draft for kids frocks or will there be any difference in the pattern for kids?

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  14. When in body part armhole length is 1/4 of chest then we will take sleeve block width also 1/4 of chest

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  15. When in body part armhole length is 1/4 of chest then we will take sleeve block width also 1/4 of chest

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