Tuesday, May 26, 2009

How to stitch a nightie

Front and Back
Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper keeping A-N along the fold.
A-B =I/2 of  Shoulder width + ¼”.
A-F = Neck width =1/12 chest + ¼” or to taste.
A-G =Back neck depth = 2” or to taste.
A-H =Front neck depth =A-F or to taste.
A-D =1/8 chest +3”.
A-L =Waist length + ¼”
A-N = Full length + 1”
Draw perpendiculars from D, L and N
D-C =A-B. Mark point I such that I-C = 1”
Join B-I.On the line B-I mark E such that B-E =3/4"
D-J =1/4 chest + 2” or to taste.
L-K = D-J. Mark O such that O-K = ½” or to taste.
N-M =¼ chest + 10” or to taste. Join O-M.
M-P =3/4”.
Join points F-E, J-O and O-P. Shape P-N.
Shape back neck F-G and Back scye E-J.
Shape front neck F-H and front pcye E-I-J. (Shown in pink lines)
Cut along the line G-F-E-J-O-P-N.
Open the fold. Cut along folded line. Separate the sheet on which lines are not marked. This is the draft for the back of the nightie.
On the other portion of the sheet on which lines are marked cut the front neck shape F-H and front scye shape E-I-J.This is the draft for the front of the nightie.

Sleeves




Draw the draft on folded sheet of paper keeping A-C on folded line.
A-C =Sleeve length +1/4”
A-X = 1” for folding.
Mark point B. Such that B-C =1/8 chest.
Drop perpendiculars from X-A-and B.
A-D = Sleeve width =Half of sleeve round + ¾” for seems.
B-G = biceps = 1/8 chest + 3”.
X-F is marked a bit longer than A-D as shown the figure. This gives a good finish for the hem.
Join X-F-D-G-C.
Mark H such that H-C =1”. And Mark I such that I-G = 2”.
Shape G-H -C (back side of the sleeve).
Shape G-I -H -C (front side of the sleeve- pink line).
Cut along X-F-G-H -C. Open fold. Cut along the pink line G-I -H -C.

cutting



Prepare paper drafts of the parts of the nightie as described .Fold the material such that selvedges come to sides and right side together .Keep the fold line of the daft on the fold line of the material and cut. Open the fold of the draft of the sleeve. Place it on folded material and cut two sleeves together. While cutting plain material care should be taken not to cut two left sleeves or two right sleeves

Stitching

Stay stitch neck line, shoulders, armsyes and top of the sleeve .This avoids stretching of the fabric while handling. Join front and back bodice at shoulders. Stitch sleeve hem. Attach sleeve to the bodice taking care to match body front to sleeve front. Stitch neck line with bias binding. Stitch front and back sides of sleeves and bodice. Hem the bottom of the bodice.

26 comments:

  1. hello vani
    how r u.
    my name is manish from lucknow(u.p.)india.i want to make a nightie, i read your drafting but can i see picture of drafting. it will felp me right drafting.pls send me.

    ReplyDelete
  2. hello vani
    how r u.
    my name is manish from lucknow(u.p.)india.i want to make a nightie, i read your drafting but can i see picture of drafting. it will felp me right drafting.pls send me.my id is manispandey@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete
  3. hello vani
    how r u.
    my name is manish from lucknow(u.p.)india.i want to make a nightie, i read your drafting but can i see picture of drafting. it will felp me right drafting.pls send me.my id is manispandey@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete
  4. Hi, manish
    I am fine.Hope you are also doing fine.
    I have given the draft on Monday, May 18, 2009.please refer to that post.
    with Best wishes
    vani

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hello Vani,

    Firstly, I really like your bolg. Great work in putting this together. Could you please teach me how to stitch a nighty for a 5 year old. My daughter loves to wear it and I would like to stitch one for her.

    Thank you so very much,
    Mridul

    ReplyDelete
  6. hello vani,
    how r u?
    i realy like ur blog.its very useful for new learners.can u plz tell us how to make elastic wasitband skirt with pleats.my id is chaudharyrajesh@gmail.com
    thank you,
    sonu

    ReplyDelete
  7. Vaniyamma, iam trying out ur draft, i hav a doubt is AB=shoulderwidth/2?

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  8. Amma, what is the calculation for point E ? plz help....
    I am a beginner i am just trying out ur tutorials....

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  9. A-B =half of shoulder width +1/4"
    B-E = 3/4"

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  10. thank u Amma, nighty came out well.
    ur blog is my tailoring text book. the time u spent for creating this excellent tutorials is worth.it is really helpful for beginners like me . thank u so much.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Glad to know that your nighty came out well

    ReplyDelete
  12. Hello Vani

    I am keen to learn how to make nightly with yoke and gathers in front...can you please post a draft for the same..

    Can I also know how to fix a simple front open button patty..

    Thanks

    Meena

    ReplyDelete
  13. Hi Vani amma,

    I drafted the nightie taping the newspaper together.. I used 3 meters of cloth for my 54" length.. The neck was an ordinary round neck, so I cut the contrasting border and sewed it along after finishing the whole nightie (including the bias neck finish). But the border just makes the neck all wobbly.. it doesnt lay flat against my body.. Did I do anything wrong.. Otherwise the nightie came out perfectly well.. I hope to post the steps again if you are ok with it (giving due credit).. Thanks for this very helpful tutorial to sew a nightie.. and please help me with this yoke kind of neck!

    Thanks,
    Rasam.

    ReplyDelete
  14. While sewing a garment you have to stay stitc curved lines so that the shape is not changed while stitching. If you want to add contrasting border to a round neck if it is cut from plain material you have to follow the method which is explained here
    http://artvani-vani.blogspot.in/2009/12/using-these-drafts-cut-facing-pieces.html
    the difference is you have to attach the facing to the wrong side of the garment and after stitching turn it on the right side of the garment and hand sew it with slip stitches.
    If it is a border you have to take small pleats and attach to the neck.

    ReplyDelete
  15. Vani Mam,

    I am a beginner in stitching.Please expalin

    I want to increase the scye depth by 1.5 inches.

    1)So should I increase the scye depth by 0.75 inches both for the front and back?

    2) Does this affect the sleeve draft too? If so please specify where and how much should be increased.

    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  16. scye depth and sleeve depend upon each other.Scye depth is calculated from the chest measurement.If chest is tight increase a little bit .and calculate.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Vani Mam,

    Thanks for explaining.

    Chest measurement is proper for me. But , if I try to lift my hand the nightie sleeve becomes tight near the armhole and it is not comfortable.

    So to overcome this which measurement should I increase?

    ReplyDelete
  18. increase scye depth by 1/4" and see.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Hi madam,
    My chest is 34, sleeve length is 4.5 and biceps is 10. So what measurement should I choose for BG of sleeve. When I used 7.25 the sleeve looks good but when I raise hands they become very tight at underside and also kind of stays there bunched up, I increased scye depth by .25 but still its tight. Also everyone else seems to have the scye length more than the sleeve cap, but in my case it is otherwise. Pls help

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  20. increase a little bit more and try.Measurements and calculations are given for stranded size.you have to try until you find correct measurement.
    Try with with old material first.

    ReplyDelete
  21. Which measurement should be used for bg, biceps, ie, 10'' or 1/8chest+4ie 7.25

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  22. you take actual measurement +seems and try

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  23. Amma I want to stich nighty with jip pls teach me

    ReplyDelete
  24. Amma I want to stich nighty with jip pls teach me

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  25. I have given instructions of the method if attaching Zip to a garment here.
    http://artvani-vani.blogspot.in/search/label/Method%20of%20sewing%20zip%20to%20a%20garment.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Dear Mam,
    This is hema , I would like to know if you have all your patterns and notes as one single PDF . IF so I willing to purchase it from you.
    Please let me know, My email id is: hemalathasundaramurthy@outlook.com

    ReplyDelete