Vani's blog 1

A line frock with round yoke -variation 4

2012-02-13T08:51:00.001-08:00

Prepare the draft of A line frock as explained here without extension on the shoulder line Draw new armhole

curve L-E as shown by dotted line. In this garment there is no difference between front armhole shape and back armhole shape. Curve L-E is common for front and back of the draft..

Produce the shoulder line F-L to L’ such that L-L’ = 1” to 1½”. Curve G-F is back neck line. Mark G’ on the line G-B such that G-G’=F-L’. Draw curve G’-L’ keeping the distance between the curve G-F and G’ L’ constant.The shape F-G-G’ L’ F is back yoke.

Curve F-H is front neck line.Mark H’ on the line G-B such that F-L’ =H-H’

Join points H’-L’ by a curved line, such that the distance between curve H-F and H’-L’ constant.

The shape F-H-H’-L’ is front yoke.

On the draft of the front mark point X at the intersection of the curves L-E and H-L’

Separate the yoke from the skirt cutting along the curve H’-X

On the draft of the back mark point Y at the intersection of the curves L-E and G-L’

Separate the yoke from the skirt cutting along the curve G’-Y.

Add an extra strip of width ½” along the line G-G’ of the right back yoke for seams and add an extra strip of width 1” for the left back yoke for extension along the line G-G’

Add extra ½” along the curves L’- X -H’-X-’ L’ of the front yoke, curve L'-Y-G' of the left back yoke and curve L’-Y'-G' of the right back yoke.

Add ½’ extra for seems along the curves X-X’ and Y-Y’ of front and back skirt.

Aline frock with flounce Variation 3

2012-02-12T09:05:00.000-08:00

Prepare the draft of "A line" frock. On the draft of the front mark three curved lines dividing the draft below the chest line into three equal parts.I have marked them with dotted lines,Do the same thing for the draft of the back..Stitch the A line frock as usual..Attach flounces on the lines marked.
Please refer step frock tutorial for method of attaching flounces

A line frock variation 2

2012-02-11T02:15:00.000-08:00

A line frock Variation 1

2012-02-10T08:16:00.000-08:00

Using the draft of “A “line frock as basis we can create many different types of dresses

Here is one such dress.

Prepare a draft of” A “line frock as explained here without extension at the shoulder

Mark point X on the fold 2” below line C- E as shown in step 1

Cut along the line X-E and separate the front draft in two portions as shown in step 2

While cutting the fabric ½” is added along the line X-E on both portions as shown in step 3

You can keep the draft of the back as it is or you can cut it into two pieces as we did for the front.

Cutting and stitching

Cut the two portions of the front in different colours.

Join them together taking care that there are no wrinkles near the “V” shape.

Rest of the rest of procedure is same as that of “A” line frock.

Oh! not again!

2012-02-05T00:39:00.000-08:00

Hi readers!

http://pratibhacollection.com/sap13.html has copied my posts of Vani's blog 1 and 2

and posted in her blog under the heading student's blog.I do not know what should be done.

Step frock

2011-12-06T09:02:00.000-08:00

This frock has got 3 steps of ruffles or frills.One is attached to the waist line and the other two are attached to the skirt portion.Skirt portion is not visible and it will be covered with ruffles .Good material is used for bodice and ruffles and ordinary material can be used for the skirt.If the frock is stitched with sheer fabric it looks great if satin is used for the lining of the bodice and also for the skirt portion.

A-D = full length of the frock

A-C = waist length

A-B =¼ chest

From the points A, B, C and D draw perpendiculars for the line A-D.

On the perpendicular line at A Mark point E such that A-E= ½ shoulder + ½”.

On the perpendicular at B mark G such that B-G =¼ chest +1½”

On the perpendicular at C mark I such that C-I =¼ waist + 1½”.

On the perpendicular at D mark point K such that D-K =B-G + 3”.

From the point E drop a perpendicular for the line A-E.

Let this meet the line B-G at H.

Join E-H. On this line Mark p

oint F such that E-F =1”

On the same line mark T such that H-T = 1”

On the line A-E mark P such that A-P = neck width ⅟₁₂ chest +¼” or to taste.

On the line A-D mark R such that A-R = front neck depth=⅟₁₂ chest +1”.

On the same line mark Q Such that A-Q = back neck depth=1”

Shape Q-P and R-P.

Join P-F. Shape back and front armhole curves F-G and F-T-G as shown in the figure.

Join G-I. On this line Mark J such that J-I = ½”.

Join I-K. On this line Mark S such that S-K = ¾”

Shape D-S.

Cut the draft along the line Q-P- F –G-J-S-D.

Separate skirt from the bodice by cutting along the line C-J.

Sleeves

A-B=sleeve length + 2”

From A and B draw perpendiculars to line A-B

Mark D such that A-D = ¼chest+1½”

From point D drop a perpendicular. Let it meet perpendicular from B at the point C.

On D-C mark point E such that D-E= ⅟₁₂ chest + ¾”

Bisect the angle ADE by a line .Let it meet the line A-E at the point G.

Shape front and back of arm scye as shown .On line B-C mark point F such that C-F = ½”.

Join E-F

On this line mark k such that F-K = ½”

Join B-K as shown.

While cutting the fabric add ½” seam for the skit and the bodice along the curve C-J as shown in the figure2. Add extensions for the plackets (Right and left button stands) for the right and left bodice back along the line Q-C.

Open the fold of the skirt portion. Divide the skit portions (Front and back) in to 3 portions by drawing lines L-M-L and O-N-O parallel to the curve J-C-J. Measure each curve. Ruffles are sewn on these lines.

Lay out

Bodice and ruffles or frills are cut from a good material. Skirt portion is cut with an ordinary material of the same colour as frills cover the skirt portion.

Width of the strip should be such that it covers the top seam of the frill which is just below. So the width of each strip should be equal to the distance between two lines + 1” seam for top and bottom of the strip +2” for overlapping.

Length of each strip should be equal to 2 to 2½ times the length of each curve X 2. This is for front and back of the skirt. More the length more will be the ruffles.

Stitching.

Bodice

Stay stitch the curves

Stitch plackets.

Join front and back of the bodice along the shoulder line. Finish neckline. Stitch sides. Attach sleeves.

Skirt.

Stitch sides matching the corresponding curves. Finish the hem.

Mark first curve by notches and others by pencil mark into haves and quarters.

Finish one long edge of the strip with narrow hem. It can also be finished by piping or lace edging. Stitch the short sides together. Mark the raw edge of the strip by notches into haves and quarters. Loosen sewing machine tension and stitch two rows of basting stitches. Lower stitch should be on seam line and the other should be near the raw edge.

There are 3 steps of frills in this design.

First attach ruffles on the last curve.

Pin the strip to the curve, right sides together and matching the marking or notches done to mark the quarters and halves. The finished edge of the strip should come towards the waist line and raw edge should face the hem of the skirt as shown in the figure. Working on one section at a time, grab both bobbin threads and start pulling until the ruffle length is the same as the garment between the 2 pins. Distribute the gathers evenly and secure them with pins at places. Secure the ruffles in place by running stitch. Finally machine stitch them together. This step can be avoided if you feel comfortable with sewing with pins coming in the way. Flip the ruffle to right side top stitch.

Follow the same procedure to stitch the ruffle to the middle curve.

Pin the ruffle to the waist line that is first curve , keeping right sides together and matching the markings. Here the finished edge of the ruffle should face the hem. The rest of the procedure is same as before. Attach the skirt with ruffles to the bodice

Continuous band of triangles or Prairie points or Picket Fence

2011-11-14T03:56:00.000-08:00

Folded triangles are called prairie points. These are used as edgings for the neck and sleeves of garments. It is also used in patch work and quilts. These triangles can be made singly, but it is laborious.This problem can be solved by doing continuous band of triangles. It is also called Continuous prairie point or picket fence.
First step is to calculate the width of the material required. The following formula is used to calculate the width of the fabric needed.
Height of the triangle needed x4 + ½” for seams = width of the fabric strip to be taken
If the height of the triangle needed is 1” The width of the material taken should be 4½”

Take the strip of material of required width and length (Figure 1}.

Fold it into half along the length keeping wrong sides together as shown in Figure 2. Press well. Open the fold. X-Y is the fold line.

On the wrong side of the material draw lines M-N and O-P parallel to the fold line X-Y and ¼” away from the fold line, these are the seam lines.Divide the fabric above the line M-N and below the line O-P in to squares as shown in the figure 3 by drawing lines. Cut along these lines till you reach lines M-N and O-P.

Cut and remove the half squares that are at the ends as shown in Figure 4.I have named the squares above the line X-Y as 1,2,3,……and the squares below the line X-Y as 1b,2b.3b………….
Let us now consider square no 1 that is above the fold line
Join corner B to corner D and press. Do the same thing for all the other squares that are above the fold line.
Similarly the squares at the bottom of the fold line are folded by folding them in different direction as shown.

Now the fabric strip looks as in Figure 5

These triangles are folded again .Second fold is done in the direction as shown in the figure 6. We get small triangles on either side of the fold line X-Y
Finally third fold is done by folding along the line fold line X-Y
Each fold should be pressed well.
Secure the triangles in place by stitching along the seam line. Continues triangles

If we have to use these triangles on curves bias strip of cloth should be taken. The triangles are secured by running stitch not by machine stitch.

Reversible A line frock

2011-10-14T08:40:00.000-07:00

Prepare the draft of A line frock

A-B =length + ⅟₂”

A-C =⅟₄ chest +⅟₂”

Draw perpendicular lines from the points A,C and B. Mark point D on the perpendicular line drawn from A such that A-D =⅟₂ shoulder +⅟₄”

Mark point E on the perpendicular line drawn from the point C such that C-E =⅟₄ chest +1⅟₂”

On the perpendicular drawn from the point B mark Point J such that B-J = C-E + 2”

A-D =C-K. Join D-K.

On the line D-K mark point L such that D-L =⅟₂”

Join the points E-J. On this line Mark point I such that I-J =⅟₂”.

Join band I by a curved line as shown.

A-F = neck width=⅟₁₂ th chest +¼”

A-H = front neck depth ==⅟₁₂ th chest + ⅟₂”

A-G = back neck depth 1”

Join G-F and H-F as shown.

K-M =1”

Shape back scye L-E and front scye D-M-E as shown

Cut along the shape G-F-L-E-I-B.

Cut along the line G-B. Keep one piece aside. This is back draft.

Take the other piece and cut along the curves F-H and L-M-E. This is the front draft.

Take the back draft and add an extension X-Y-Z of height 3” as shown in the figure. This can be done by cutting a separate shape and pasting it along the shoulder line.

Select two fabric pieces with different designs.Call them Fabric type 1 and fabric type 2

Place the draft prepared on folded pieces of fabric and cut the pattern pieces of each type of fabric as shown in the layout.

Stitch reversible frock as explained in the following images.

Method of stitching placket open at both ends

2011-09-18T00:18:00.000-07:00

Placket is an opening or a slit that allows room for the garment to put on. One edge of the slit is finished by facing and other by extension. Facing is also called “Single button stand. In Kannada it is called “Single Patti”. Extension is called double button stand and “double Patti “Plackets are closed by using hooks and eyes or bars, snap fasteners and buttons and button holes .Usually in ladies garments Facing is stitched to the right-hand side of the garment and extension is stitched to the left side of the garment. Facing overlaps the extension.
When snap fasteners are used the ball part of the snap is positioned on the overlap side of the placket, and the socket on the under lap.
When hooks & eyes or bars are used Hooks are stitched on the facing inside the garment and the bars or eyes are stitched on the extension.
When buttons are used buttons are stitched to the extension or under lap and the buttonholes are done on the facing.
Sari blouse has got a placket which is open at both ends.While cutting the fabric an extension of 1/4" to be added to right and left bodice along the line A-B to attach cloth strips.
Method of stitching placket opens at both ends

Method of stitching petal sleeve

2011-09-09T00:12:00.000-07:00

Step 1
prepare the basic plain sleeve draft (Figure 1) Step 2 Open the fold (Figure 2)

Place this on a folded sheet of paper and cut the shape. This is done as we have to cut the draft in duplicate

Figure 3 shows right and wrong side of the draft. X-Y is the mid line of the draft. A-C and B-D are the sides.

Fold and place sides A-C and B-D on to the center line X-Y as shown in the figure 4
Crease the folds and open. Mark these fold lines as E-F and G-H.
Mark a point O on the line X-Y such that Y-O = 2 to 2½” Join the points B-G and E-D as shown in the figure 4. These lines should pass through the point O.
Copy these lines on the draft below using a carbon paper.

Take one draft and cut along the line B-G. On the duplicate draft cut along the line D-E as shown in the figure 5

We get 2 pieces of the petal sleeve. Add an extra ½” to the sides for seams as shown in figure 6.

There is another method in which we get the sleeve in a single piece. Place line A-B and C-D side by side and join them with cello tape
This is the draft of petal sleeve in one piece.

Method of sewing.

While cutting the fabric mark the points A, X and G by cutting notches.

Double piece petal sleeve

Curves B-G and E-D are sleeve edges. These can be finished with matching lace or piping.See Figure 7 If the material is thin it can be finished with a fitted facing. It gives good finishing.
Curves A-E-X-G and E-X-G-C are to be attached to the armhole.

Place pieces one above the other in such a way Points E, X, G and O coincide. See Figure 8 .Fix these positions by putting a running stitch as shown in the figure. Pin Point X to the shoulder line of the bodice Points A-and B to the sides of the bodice at the arm pit.Attach the sleeve to the armhole. Sides of the sleeve and bodice are sewn at one stretch.

Single piece petal sleeve.

Fold the sleeve along the line CA-BD .Overlap the two edges in such a way points E-X- G of one side coincides the points E-X-G on the other side and fix them with running stitch. Sew sides of the bodice
Keeping right sides together pin the bodies to the sleeve. Pin point AC to the side seam of the armpit of the bodice and point X to the shoulder line and sew them together.See Figure 8

If gathers are need at the top of the sleeve Puff sleeve pattern is used to prepare the draft

kameez with overlapping bodice

2011-09-02T08:08:00.000-07:00

Draft for this style of kameez can be prepared by using simple kameez draft.
Divide the simple kameez draft in to two portions at the waist line
Back
Place the back portion on a sheet of paper and add ½” at waist line for seams.Mark all around and cut.
Right front
Place the front left on a sheet of paper and add extension as shown in the figure. We can change the shape of the curve according to our taste Add ½” at the waist line for seams.Mark all around and cut
Left front
Place the left front on a sheet of paper .Add 1½” extension for the placket (Button stand) Add ½” at the waist line for seams . Mark all around and cut
Bottom portion of the kameez.
Bottom portion of the kameez is cut by adding ½” at the waist line.

Kameez with overlapping front

2011-09-02T05:41:00.000-07:00

Preparation of the draft
In ladies garments right front overlaps the left front. Draft of simple kameez is used to prepare this type of kameez draft.

Trace the draft of the right front on a sheet of paper. An extension of 4” Is added as shown by shaded area in the figure 1.

Trace left front on another sheet of paper .An extension of 1½’ is added as shown by shaded area in the figure 1.
There is no change in the draft of the back and sleeves of the kameez
Neck and button stands can be decorated with matching piping or border.

To keep the neck and waist in place press studs are sewn near the neck , waist and center of the garment inside the garment at A, B, and C as shown in the figure 2 .

Loops or buttons are sewn outside the garment as shown in the figure 3.

Method of preparing continuous bias

2011-08-19T10:11:00.000-07:00

Take a piece of rectangular fabric A-B-C-D .On the wrong side mark a true bias line X-Y. Draw parallel lines to this line at equal intervals. Keep the distance between the lines equal to the width of the bias strip needed. Mark a point P on the first line ¼ “ away from the corner point X. Mark another point Q on the second line , on the opposite side ¼” from the edge A-D.

Right sides together fold the fabric lengthwise. Take threaded needle pass the needle at the point P and then through the point Q. (see Figure 2)

Tack the edges together with ¼” seam along black line. (Refer figure 1) See how a continuous line has formed! (Refer Figure 3)

Machine stitch. Secure the stitching by stitching once again on the first stitch. Press the seam open. (Refer Figure 4)

Start cutting from the part of the line 1 as shown in the figure 5.

Continue cutting round and round on the marked lines. You will get continuous bias strip (Figure 6)

Continuous bound placket

2011-08-19T01:08:00.000-07:00

A placket is an opening that allows clothing to be put on or removed easily; it has got two parts the extension and the facing. Facing falls above the extension .Some call it as under placket and top placket. It is also called single button stand and double button stand. In Kannada it is called “Gundi Patti". When we use hooks and eyes or bars are used eyes or bars are sewn in the extension and hooks are sewn on the facing. When press snaps are used snaps are sewn on the extension and balls are sewn on the facing at back side of the garment. If buttons are used buttons are sewn on the extension and button holes are made on the facing. In ladies garments extension is sewn in the left front and the facing is sewn in the right front.Continuous bound placket is one of them.

Continuous bound placket provides a strong lapped finish for a garment opening. It is suitable for children's dresses ,petticoats and for sleeve openings with cuff or a band.

Method of preparing bias strips

2011-08-05T03:10:00.000-07:00

Bias strips are very essential for sewing. It is also called cross piece.It is used for curved edge as well as straight edge finishes. Fabric tubes are prepared from bias strips and used for decorating neck and sleeve edges.
Method of preparing Bias strips

Fold fabric on bias along the line G-H as shown in the figure 1. To get true bias strips fold line should be at 45° to the grain lines .(selvedges}Mark lines at equidistance and parallel to the fold .The distance between the lines depends upon the width of the bias tape needed. Cut along the lines A-B, C-D, E-F and the fold line G-H. It is always advisable to prepare true bias strips as it stretches well. Sew them together using ½” seam. To secure the stitching one more line of stitching is done above the previous line. Open the seam and press. Figure 2 and 3 show the method of joining the bias strips

Method of taking measurements from a blouse

2011-08-03T01:30:00.000-07:00

Fold the measurement blouse in to 4 folds as shown leaving the extension of the placket outside

A-C = shoulder width + ¼” .While taking this measurement place a scale along the dotted line.

C-D = Chest + 1” for seams. Seam allowance can be kept more to adjust the size.

E-F = Full length + 1½” for folding.

G-E = Waist + seam allowance that is equal to the seam allowance added for chest.

I-J = Sleeve length + 1½” for folding

L-K = Scye depth

I –P = Sleeve width + seam allowance equal to the seam allowance added for chest.

P-Q = Sleeve width + seam allowance equal to seam allowance added for chest.

R-S = Biceps width + seam allowance equal to seam allowance added for chest.
L-M = Neck width -1/4".While taking this measurement Place a scale along the dotted line
N-O = Neck depth . While taking measurement place a scale along the dotted line

Method of stitching Katori Blouse

2011-05-18T09:38:00.000-07:00

Basic sari blouse draft of front and back are prepared on a folded sheet of paper. Folded sheet is cut along the fold line and the draft of the back is removed. The remaining details are drawn on the front portion.For basic sari blouse draft please refer here.

Step 1
Mark A-B the full length of blouse + 1” on the fold line.
On this line Mark point K such that A-K = back neck depth =¹/12th chest or to taste.
Mark point L on the line A-B such that A-L =front neck depth =1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark point D on the line the line A-B such that A-D = scye depth = ¼ chest-1¼ or 1½.
For details about scye depth refer here.
A-M = front length + ½”.
Draw perpendicular lines to the line A-B from the points A, D, M and B.
On the perpendicular line at A mark A-C = ½ shoulder + ¼ “.
On the perpendicular line at D mark point E such that D-E = ¼ chest +1½”.
On the perpendicular line at M mark point N such that M-N = D-E.
On the perpendicular line at B Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
From the point C drop a Perpendicular. It meets the line D-E at the point H.
On the line C-H mark points R such that C-R = ½” or ¾”.
Join the points G and R.
Mark point J on the line C-H such that J-H = 1”.
Mark point I on the line B-F such that I-F = ½” Join the points E and I.
Line E-I intersects the line M-N at the point O.
Join points K and G by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is back neck line.
Join points L and G by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is Front neck line.
Now cut along the line K-G-R-E-O-I-B.
Separate front and back draft by cutting along the fold line K-L-D-M-B.
Keep back draft (on which there are no markings) aside.
Step 2

Take the front draft on which neck and front scye Markings are there.
On the line D-E mark point Z such that Z-H = 1/2' to 3/4".This is for the bust measurements up to 33".For bust size more than 33" shift the point Z to towards H and continue.
S is the midpoint of D-Z.
From the points S and Z drop perpendiculars. These lines meet the line M-N at point 2 and 3. respectively. On the line S-2 mark point T such that S-T =1/8th chest -1½”.
For further details about the point T see here.
Through the point T and on either side, draw a line parallel to the line M-N. This line cuts the line A-M. at the point 4 and the line Z-3 at the point V.
On the line A-M mark point P such that 4-P = 1”. This is for chest measurement below 36".For bust measurements 36" and above increase this measurement to 1¼” or 1½”
On the line Z-3 mark point Q such that V-Q = 1”.This is for chest measurement below 36".For bust measurements 36" and above increase this measurement to 1¼” or 1½”
Join P-T and T-Q.
Paste a small piece of paper of width 2” along P-X outside the line A-M.
Produce the line V-4 to U such that length of line P-T + the length of the line T-Q = length of the line V-U.
Paste a small piece of paper of width 2” along the line M-N.
Produce line 4-M to X such that 4-X = P-M.
Produce line V-3 to W such that V-W =Q-3.
Join U-X. On U-X mark point Y such that X-Y = 1”.
Join W-Y by a curved line as shown in the figure.
Produce T-2. It cuts the line W-Y at point 5. At this point take a dart of ½”.
Point 1 is the midpoint of the front neck line. L-G. Join 1 and Z by a curved line as shown in the figure.
There are three pieces in the draft. I have coloured them with different colours .Please see figure 3.

We have to separate them.
Piece no 1 is side piece.
Piece no 2 is Katora piece .
Piece no 3 is Under bust piece.

Cut front neck line along the line L-I-G.Cut along the shoulder line G-R and front scye shape R-J-E. Cut along the E-O. Cut along O-3.
Cut along the curve 1-Z-Q-V- 3. This is piece no 1 or side piece.
To separate piece no 2 or Katora from piece no 3 or under bust piece cut along the line P-T-Q.
Cut along the line U- 4 -T-V-3-W-5- X-Y-U to get under bust piece.

Waist band

1-2 = (A-B - A-M )=(Full length of the blouse– Front length of the blouse) +½”.
2 to 4 = M-O (refer fig 2) -1”.
4-3 = 1 to 2 -¾ or 1”.
4 to 5 = ½”.
Join 1 and 3 by a curved line as shown.
Join 3 and 5.
Cot along 1-3-5-2-1.

Sleeves

Refer sari blouse
While cutting the fabric take ½” extra for seams as shown in the figure 5 by dotted lines. Arrow mark shows length wise of the cloth. To get good fitting the Katora piece which is coloured in green should be cut on bias as shown in the figure 5.

Stitching

Fold the under bust piece which is coloured blue along the line T-5 and stitch ½” dart. Open the fold and press .See Figure 6 .

Place the under bust cover on the katora ,Keeping right sides together and place D’ on D, C’ on C and B’ on B . See figure 7. Stitch them together along the line D-C-B, ¼” from edge. Make small snips along the stitched edge taking care to not cut the stitches. Open and press. See figure 7.

Keep the side piece which is coloured pink on katora and under bust which are stitched together, keeping right sides together and Point A on A’ G on G’ and stitch ¼” away from the curved edge . Make small snips and turn the seam and press. See Figure 8

Out of 4 waist band pieces take 2 pieces of the belt and stitch them together along the edge I-J and turn the seam inside fold and press. Place the belt on under bust piece and side piece which are stitched together, matching points F and F’ and H and H’. See figure 9.

This is left front of the blouse. Stitch right front also in the same manner.

Complete sewing the blouse as an ordinary sari blouse.

Night dress for young girls

2011-04-21T04:54:00.000-07:00

This night dress has a shoulder wide round yoke with lining .Gathers of the skirt is sandwiched between the yoke and its lining and stitched. It has got puff sleeves.length of the dress depends according to taste.Yoke and neck can be edged with lace or piping or frills .It has got front opening.Using this draft, sleeveless dress can also be stitched.
Dress
Prepare child’s basic bodice draft as in Fairy’s costume (figure 1)

Separate front and back of the bodice. (Figure 2)

Take a sheet of paper and fold it in to half length wise. A-A’-X-X’ is the folded sheet of paper. A-X is the fold line. Length of the folded sheet A-X should be equal to length of the night gown +1”. And width A-A’ should be equal to or more than line O-D of the bodice draft.
Pin the bodice front on the sheet of paper keeping the edge I-C of the bodice front falls on the fold line A-X and point N falls on the line A-A’. (Figure 3)

Produce D-E to X’ such that O-X =D-X’
Mark P on the line I-C such that I-P =N-G.
Mark point Z on the arm round from where the armhole shape starts to take a curve
Shape the yoke curve P-Z-G Keeping the width of the yoke same throughout. I-N-G- Z-P is the front yoke.
Cut and remove the shape I-N-G-Z-P .This is front yoke folded. Cut and separate along the line I-P. These are right and left front yokes.
Stick these yoke shapes on to another bigger sheet of paper and seams of ½” along the curve .Add extensions for the neck placket, ½” on right front yoke and 1½” on left yoke. (See figure 4.)

The remaining portion of the draft X-C-P-Z--D-E-X’ is used to prepare skirt front.( Figure 5)

Stick another piece of paper behind this draft near the curved line and mark a line ½” above the curved line P-Z .This is for seams. (Figure 6)

Divide the skirt portion in to three equal portions. ( Figure 7 )

On a different sheet of paper draw a line of length equal to twice O-D or to taste. Arrange the panels as shown. Two gaps should be equal to one another. Join the three panels by a new curve P-Z .Cut along the lines P-Z-D-X’-X ( Figure 8 )

Follow the same procedure and prepare back body yoke H-Q-N-G and back skirt Q-Z-G-D-E-Y’-Y
Parts of the night dress

Sleeves
Refer the post fairy's costume

I am deeply annoyed

2011-03-22T07:17:00.000-07:00

I had a nasty shock today while browsing the web. I found some of the contents from my tutorial have been copied and posted word for word in another blog http://www.vanitha.tk/ under the heading"hand work" and the author was passing it off as her own. There is no possibility of her having copied the contents from any book as I had not copied it from any book. I have explained it in my own way. The images are my own. I am very much annoyed to see many of my tutorials that I had posted last year have appeared in her blog this year without any prior permission or acknowledgment.
The posts that she has copied are here
http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/03/denim-pinafore.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/03/simple-dressstiching.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/chudidar-pyjama-method.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/method-of-drafting-pyjama-stiching.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/anarkali-salwar-set-top.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/anarkali-top-with-panels-flaring-from.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/anarkali-dress-top-with-panels-indian.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/02/peasant-top.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/01/pavada-blouse-blouse-for-long-skirt.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/01/pavada-stitching-long-pleated-skirt.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/01/under-stitching-nack-ect.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/01/method-of-stitching-neck-with-fitted.html

http://www.vanitha.tk/2011/01/method-of-sewing-one-shoulder-dress.html

Another funny thing is she has not seen the spelling mistake that I had made and she has posted without correcting it! I will be very grateful If you write your comments in her blog. By doing so we can put an end to this.
Thanks

Method of sewing a slip or short petticoat

2011-03-01T23:03:00.000-08:00

This is a short petticoat. This garment is worn under kurthi or shirts as underwear. While drafting the pattern care must be taken to keep back neck depth and front neck width more than that of Kurthi. While stitching, side slit of 3” to 4 “should be made. This prevents the slip from rolling up.

A-G = full length of petticoat needed + ½”
On the line A-G mark the points I, J, C and E such that
A-C = ¼ chest -1”
A-E = waist length.
A-I = back neck depth = 3” or to taste.
A-J = front neck depth 2” less than A-C or to taste.
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, I, J, C, E and G and mark the points on them such that
A-B = ¹/8 chest + ¼”
A-K = 1/12 chest + ½” or to taste
C-D = ¼ chest + 1½” and C-N =A-B. Join B-N. On this line mark M such that B-M = 1” Join K-M
E-F = ½” less than C-D
G-H = C-D + 2” join D-F –H by a curved line.On this line Mark L such that L-H =¾”
Join G-L by a curved line as shown.
Join front neck line K-J and back neck line K-I as shown.
Cut the draft along the line I-K-M-D-F-L and G.
Cut along the line I-J-C-E-G. Keep the portion on which lines are not marked. This is half of the draft of the back.

Take the other portion and cut along the line K-J .This is the front of the draft.

Method of sewing sleeveless blouse

2011-02-25T07:02:00.000-08:00

Using a basic bodice draft , a sleeveless blouse draft can be prepared by making certain changes.
In a sleeveless blouse shoulder width should be less than that of blouse with set in sleeves. Or else the shoulder line droops. It is better to have closer fitting underarm seams. If not under garments can be seen through the armhole. These changes can be done by making following changes in the basic draft

Trace the draft of the front and back of the bodice. Mark point X along the shoulder line such that R-X is 3/4" .Produce the side line L-K to Y such that K-Y =3/4". Re draw the armhole line as shown by red dotted line .Do the same changes for the back also. Sew armseye with fitted facing to get good finish.Same method can be followed to sew other sleeveless garments

Half umbrella cut skirt.

2011-01-30T21:05:00.000-08:00

Prepare the draft of the bodice as explained here.
Prepare the skirt as explained below.Join skirt to the bodice

Method of sewing Magyar blouse

2011-01-20T21:10:00.000-08:00

In Magyar sleeves are cut along with the bodice. So there is no need to join sleeve to the bodice. Magyar sleeve can be long or short. It is easy to stitch..
We can prepare the draft of the blouse with Magyar sleeves using the draft of the plain blouse.

Method

Arrange the draft of bodice front and back as shown in the figure.
A-B is the shoulder line of the bodice before cutting the shoulder slope. C-D is the center line of the sleeve. Arrange the drafts such that A-B and C-D are in a line .Distance between the points E and G should be equal to the distance between the points F and H.
Mark points I and J such that E-I =F-J.
Mark points K and L such that G-K =H-L.
Shape the curves I-K and J-L as shown.

Method of sewing " One shoulder dress"

2011-01-14T21:53:00.000-08:00

Plain frock or an” A” line frock draft can be converted to one shoulder frock. Neck and arm hole is stitched with fitted facing. Interfacing can be sandwiched between the bodice and the facing to keep the shape of the bodice. We can also prepare a casing along the neck line and pass elastic through to keep the neck line in position. In place of the other shoulder spaghetti straps can be used as support. Satin ribbon bow looks great.

Method of drafting front of the bodice.

Keep A-C on Fold. A-C = Waist length + ½”.
A-O =¼ chest-½”.
From the points A, O, and C draw perpendiculars.
A-B = ½ shoulder width + ¼”
A-N =¹/12th chest +¼” or to taste
A-I =¹/12th chest +½” or to taste
shape neck N-I as shown in the figure
O-D =¼ chest +1½”.O-D =C-E
M-E =⅛” .Join D-M.
B-G =½”. Join N-G
F-J =1”.Shape G-J-D front armhole as shown in the figure.
L is half of C-M.A dart of ⅛” is taken along the line K-L as shown in the figure.
Open the fold of back and front pattern .Now let us do the necessary changes.
Draw a line on the front of the pattern starting from the point N’ on the right shoulder line, going across the front as low as the neck depth and curving to the left armhole.
X is the midpoint of N-B.Draw a perpendicular X-Y to the line N-B it meets the neck curve at Y. Mark that point. Straps are fixed to this point.

Cutting

Back and front drafts are the same. So cut draft in duplicate. Use one for the front and other as back.

Stitching

Stitch the right shoulders together. Finish neckline with fitted facing sandwiching interfacing in between. If you want to pass elastic do not use the interfacing. Pass ½” wide elastic whose length is 2” less than the curve of the whole neck line and secure the elastic at the ends.Stitch the sides together. Stitch the darts, Attach the bodice to the skirt portion as usual. Prepare spaghetti straps by using Fabric tubes Fix the spaghetti straps or satin ribbons at the point Y both in front and back of the bodice
I f you want to stitch an “A” line frock take the draft of the front and follow the same method.

Baby's Matinee jacket

2011-01-13T21:18:00.000-08:00

Baby’s matinee jacket is a simple infant garment which is easy to sew.

Materials needed

Materials suitable are Cots-wool, flannel and flannelette
Matching piping

Pattern making

Fold the paper in 2 layers and prepare the draft.
A-P = full length +½”
A-B =¼ chest –½”
Draw perpendiculars from A, B and P
A-C =½ shoulder
A-G = back neck=½”
A-H = front neck = 1½”
A-F =¹/12th chest
Join F-G and F-H with curves
Mark S on the line A-P such that P-S =1½”
A-C =B-D. Produce B-D to E such that B-E =¼ chest +1½”
C-M = Full sleeve length measured from shoulder tip to wrist +⅛”Draw a perpendicular from the point M to the line A-M.
M- N =A-B
M-U = sleeve width +½”.
M-O =½”
Join U-O with a curved line as shown.
Produce P-Q to R such that such that R-Q =1½”
Join R –E. Mark T on R-E such that R-T =1”. E-V=¾” join U-V-T as shown.
Join T-S with a curve as shown
Cut along the line O-U-V-T-S.
Cut back neck A-F.
Open the fold and cut front neck F-H

Cutting the fabric

Place the draft on the material as shown in layout 1 or layout 2.
Cut front opening H-S

Stitching

Finish the sleeve with matching piping. Join the sides. Over cast the seam or pink the seam and open.
Finish the curved line T-S and front opening together at one stretch with piping. Finish the neck with piping Leave extra piping on either side of the neck for tying a bow
Or you can stitch button and loops (Type 2)

Zari langa blouse aka pattu pavade aka long skirt and blouse

2011-01-11T06:57:00.000-08:00

I have stitched these long skirt to my sister's grand daughter.

How to draft princess seam blouse from basic sari blouse draft

2010-11-28T02:52:00.000-08:00

Please see this site. There are many Princess cut blouse models. http://www.only-ladies.com/2009/03/blouse-neck-patterns.html

Method of sewing zip to a garment.

2010-11-28T01:43:00.000-08:00

Attach facing to the neck line. (I have shown only the back side of the garment here as it is difficult for me to show both the sides that is front and back.) Press under the seam allowances of the back opening
Close the zip. Mark the length of the zip on the garment. Stitch the seams together on the fold line till the mark and press the seams open
Pin the zip to the edges to the folded seam allowance such that the center line of the zipper coincides with the edges of the seam allowances and the zipper tab end should be placed ½” below the neck line seam. Trim off the zipper tape just below the neck line. Baste the zipper to the garment. Do the same thing for the other side also
Using the zipper foot machine stitch the zipper to the garment. . Fold the neck facing and finish the neck line using hem stitch

How to sew seams - Part 2

2010-11-23T01:47:00.000-08:00

French seam

French seam is a strong seam. I can only be used on straight seams. Finishing of the seams is not needed. It is very useful for stitching under garments and sheer fabrics; it is not suitable for heavy fabrics.
Stitching method.
Keep wrong sides of the material together, Stitch on the right side ¼” away from the seam line in the seam allowance.
Trim the raw edge to 1/8” from the line of stitching and turn to the wrong side.
Crease the joint, press. Fold on the line of the joint. Stitch on the seam line.
While stitching care should be taken such that the raw edge of the seam does not show on the right side.

Flat-fell seam.

This seam is used for men’s shirts and pajamas. It has got two parallel rows of stitches.
This is the strongest seam.
Keep wrong side of the fabric together and stitch on the right side on the seam line .Trim one side of the seam by ¼”. Turn under the raw edge of the other seam and place it flat on the trimmed seam and top stitch close to the folded edge

How to sew seams - Part 1

2010-11-22T06:51:00.000-08:00

Seams are the lines of stitching which hold two pieces of fabric together. There are many types of seams. The type of seam we use depends upon the fabric.

Plain seam

This type of seam is used for firmly woven fabric that does not ravel easily. Double stitched plain seam gives added strength. If we want to open the seam to give smooth fit double stitching is done one above the other.

How to make plain seam

Keep the two pieces of the material to be joined, right sides together and make a single row of machine stitching ½” from the edge. Beginners can mark the seam line and tack before machine stitching. Make a second row of stitching 1/16” from and parallel to the first row in the seam allowance

Methods of finishing plain seam

1. Pinking

It is used for firmly woven fabric. After stitching the seam is trimmed with pinking shears

2. Overcasting

This is also used on firm fabric. After seam is stitched the edges of the seams are stitched together with over casting stitches by hand or the seams can be opened and overcasting is done separately.

3 Hemming

This is used on the fabric that ravels. After stitching, the seam is opened and the raw edges are turned inside a little and machine stitched.

4 False French

This method id used on sheer fabrics to get neat finish .This adds strength to the seams. After stitching, seam is opened, raw edges are turned up and brought together and hemmed by hand

5 Bound seam

This method is used on fabric that is heavy and ravels easily. After stitching, seam is opened and the raw edges are bound separately with bias strips.

Self binding

This method can be used for the seams that can be turned towards one side. Stitch seam .Trim one layer of seam allowance to ¼”. Turn and press the other seam allowance towards the trimmed side. Turn again over the trimmed side and stitch.

Zigzag stitched.

Stitch seams. Finish the seams with zigzag stitches placed to the edge of the seam allowance.

Seams in sheer fabrics.

Place the fabric right sides together. Stitch them together 1/8th” from the seam line with in the seam allowance. Fold and press both the layers over the stitching. Stitch close to the folded edge.>Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching.Turn again and stitch close to the edge such that the stitches should fall on the seam line. This makes almost invisible seam

Nehru shirt

2010-10-15T09:48:00.000-07:00

This type of shirt is usually worn with dothi or Pyjama.Neck is finished with stand collar or bound hem.We can call this kurtha with out kali.Looks grand with embroidery

Measurements

Chest
Shoulder
Length
neck round

Body front and back

A-B= full length +1”
A-C=¼ chest
A-D = waist length
Draw perpendiculars from A, C, D and B
A-E =½ shoulder +¼”
C-H =¼ chest +2”. For boys add 1½”
C-G =A-E-¼”
E-F =1¼”
G-P=1” Shape armhole of scye H-P-F of body front.
P-J =1” Shape armhole of scye H-J-F of body back.
D-I is C-H -½”
B-L =C-H +2”
K-L=½”
Shape side seam H-I-K
Shape bottom curve B-K.
A-N=1/6th neck. A-O =¾”, Shape back neck curve N-O
A-M =1/6th neck + ¼”. Shape front neck curve N-M

Q-K is side slit =1/4 th of A-B +1"

Sleeves

A-I =Sleeve length +½”.
C-A =1/12th chest +½”. Draw perpendicular from C to the line A-I.
C-D =¼ chest less ½”
Join A-D. F is it’s midpoint. H is the midpoint of F-D
H-I =¾” and F-J =¾”. Shape back curve A-J-D and front curve A-F-D
E-I =1/6th chest .Join E-I and D-E.

Stand Collar

C-D=½ neck line +¼”
E is midpoint.
Draw perpendiculars from C and D. A-C=1½” or to taste. A-C = B-D .Mark point F on D-B such that D-F =½”
Mark point G on A-B such that G-B = ¼”
Shape the curve C-E-F as shown in the figure Join F-G and produce to the point H such that H-F =A-C-¼”.
Shape the curve A –H as shown in the figure 1. In this collar front edges are straight. If you want front edges to be rounded Shape the curve A-H-G as shown in the figure 2

Method of drafting pyjama

2010-10-14T06:06:00.000-07:00

This pyjama can be used as an indoor garment or as an outdoor garment with Kurtha. If it is worn with Kurtha, leg round is reduced..It can be stitched with fly or without fly.It is prepared with a casing at the waist to pass draw string

Measurements

Length
Seat
Bottom

Front

A-B=1/3rd seat + 1½”
A-E=Length
A-C= ¹/3rd seat
Mark point H on A-C, 1” below the midpoint of A-C.
A-H =B-I. Join H-I
Mark J such that B-J =¼ seat + 1¼”.
A-C =B-D. Join C-D
From J drop J-L perpendicular to C-D. This line intersects the line H-I at the point Q.
Mark point K, ½” below Q.
Join C-K with a deep inward curve as shown.
Mark point R such that R-J = 1¼”
Drop perpendicular from R .It meets the line H-I at the point S.
Mark point M such that S-M = 1”. Shape M-K with upward curve.
G-F= ½ leg round .Join C-F

Back

A’-B’=1/3rd seat + 1½”
A’-E’=Length
A’-C’= ¹/3rd seat
Mark point H on A’-C’, 1” below the midpoint of A’-C’.
A’-H’ =B’-I’. Join H’-I’
A’-C ‘=B’-D’ Join C’-D’
From B’ measure B’-O =¼ seat-1½”
From O drop a perpendicular to C-’D’. This line meets I’-H’ at N. Produce N-O to P such that O-P = 1½”
Join B’-P as shown in the figure..
Mark T on the line I’-H’ such that N-T =1½”
Produce D’-C’ to U such that C-’U =1½”. Join P-T-U as shown.
G’- F’ ½ leg round + ½”
Join U-F’

Right side front fly facing

Using carbon paper trace shape R-J-K-S-M-R on a sheet of paper to get the draft of the fly facing.

Left side front fly extension

It is prepared in the same way but on a folded sheet of paper keeping J-K on the fold.

Allowances

Add 1½” on R-j-B- P and tops of fly facing and fly extension for stitching casing..
Add 1½” on F-G-F’ for bottom folding.
Add ½” on all other pattern edges for seams..
If side seam is needed cut front and back of the pyjama separately and add ½” of seam allowance.
If not place the drafts of front and back side by side matching the points BB’, DD” and DD”.

.

Romper

2010-09-26T10:52:00.000-07:00

This is an easy fitting garment for children from 6 months to 3 years.This is the basic design.We can create many other types from this.Neck and sleeve edges can be finished with piping . collar can also be attached.Elastic of length little less than the thigh round is inserted at the bottom
Measurements needed
Chest
Full Length
Sleeve length measured from the nape of the neck
Seat
Thigh round

A-B= Full length + 1/2'’
A-D = Waist length
A-C =1/4 chest
Draw perpendiculars from A,C,D and B
A-E=1/2 shoulder+1/4”
A-F =sleeve length measured from the nape of the neck
C-H = ¼ chest +1⅟2”
Produce C-H to G such that C-G =A-F
D-J =C-H.Produce D-J to K such thatD-K =1/2 chest
D-K =B-Q Join K-Q
Mark M on the line B_Q such that B-M =⅟12th seat
Mark L on the line K-Q such that Q - L =⅟6th seat
Join M-L. this is back leg shape.
Draw another curved line M-L Which is front leg shape as shown in the figure. Let the mid - points of the curved line and straight line be 1” apart.
A-R =⅟12th chest +⅟4”
A-N =1”
A-O=1⅟12th chest +⅟2”
Shape front neck O-R and back neck N-R
F-P =1” Join R-P.
G-H =!”. Join P-H
Join L-H by a curved line as shown in the figure.
O-S =front opening line =⅓ chest + ⅟4”
Stitching
Finish front NECKLINE PLACKET
Join shoulders.
Finish sleeve edges by PIPING
Stitch sides.
Join front and back of the Romper by joining along the line M-B-M.Finish thigh round by PIPING or by attaching frills

Body measurements

2010-09-20T04:09:00.000-07:00

I had collected these boy measurement charts from the web.I had not noted down the address.

Jabla with overlapping front

2010-09-16T11:34:00.000-07:00

This dress is suitable for infants.
Measurements needed
chest=18"
Length =10"

A-C=length=10”+1”
Draw perpendiculars A-B and C-D from the points A and C
A-B= ¼ chest+ 2”
A-B=C-D
Join B-D.
Mark J on B-D such that B-J =¼ Chest-1”
Join J and D by a curved line as shown.
A-E= G-F=1/12th chest and A-G= G-F=1/12th chest +1”
A-K=1½”
Draw a parallel line H-I, 2” away from line A-C
H-I is ½” less than line G-C
Shape front neck line E-G-H and back neck line A-K

Stitching
Join shoulder lines of front and back together with right sides together.Finish neck line and sleeves with piping.Stitch sides .Finish the bottom hem also with piping.Stitch snap fasteners to the front opening.

Method of stitching "High V neck"

2010-09-15T08:00:00.000-07:00

Jabla with frill

2010-08-09T05:14:00.000-07:00

Body

Trace and cut the draft of jabla .Lessen the length by 2".Add 1/2" for seams.

Frills

Cut a strip if cloth of width 3" and length being twice the circumference of the body.

Body measurements of babies and children

2010-08-09T03:28:00.001-07:00

These tables are from National Bureau of Standards Body Measurements Tables

I thought that they will be useful to stitch clothes for babies and children

Babies

Children

Baby's clothes-Jabla

2010-08-09T00:22:00.001-07:00

Jabla is a comfortable baby’s wear. It is always better if it is stitched with thin soft cotton fabric. Pastel colours look good. Neck is finished with a casing through which a draw string is passed.It is advisable to tie the draw string near the shoulder to avoid baby from pulling it.

Method of stitching neckline placket

2010-08-06T10:00:00.000-07:00

Bishop dress

2010-06-21T06:34:00.000-07:00

I am very happy to show you the bishop dress stitched by my friend Marysia Teresa Paling from Turkey. She prepared draft with the help of my post “Prepare your own Bishop Collar guide “.She has made some slight changes. She has used the fabric 3½ times the distance of the curve J-J." She makes dresses for www.mirrormirrordesigns.net

Different types of high necklines

2010-06-10T06:48:00.000-07:00

High "V" neck blouse

2010-06-10T06:19:00.000-07:00

Sari blouse draft can be converted to high neck blouse draft by making certain changes in neck drafting. Back neck is raised a little. Different shapes can be given for the front neck.

Back

Back neck= A-G 1/12 chest
G-G’=½”
Join shoulder line G’-R and shape back neck curve A-G’

Front

A-G =1/12 chest +¼”
W-G =1¼”
A-X = neck depth = to taste
Join X-W and produce to Y such that W-Y = back neck A-G’ +½”
Draw a perpendicular at Y. Y-Z = W-G=1¼”.
Join G-Z.

Stand collar with bow or Tie stand collar

2010-06-05T07:23:00.000-07:00

This collar suits frocks and shirt blouses. It looks nice if stitched with free flowing fabric. Interfacing if not needed
A-B = Half of neck line
Draw perpendiculars from A and B
A-E =B-F =1½”.
Join E-F and produce till C such that B-C =F-G = 15” or to taste.
Produce C-G to H such that C-G =G-H Produce B-C to D such that C-D =2”
Shape the curve F-H as shown in the figure.
Join D-H.

Stand collar

2010-06-04T09:57:00.000-07:00

This collar starts at the neckline and rises up towards the chin with no fold. Interfacing the collar keeps it upright. The front edges can either straight or rounded. It is called by different names such as Nehru collar Chinese collar etc.

C-D=½ neck line +¼”
E is mid point.
Draw perpendiculars from C and D. A-C=1½” or to taste. A-C = B-D .Mark point F on D-B such that D-F =½”
Mark point G on A-B such that G-B = ¼”
Shape the curve C-E-F as shown in the figure Join F-G and produce to the point H such that H-F =A-C-¼”.
Shape the curve A –H as shown in the figure 1. In this collar front edges are straight. If you want front edges to be rounded Shape the curve A-H-G as shown in the figure 2

Stitching

Place the paper draft of the collar on the folded piece of fabric with right sides together and cut two pieces of the collar.One is the collar and the other is the facing. Cut one more piece using interfacing. Place the two pieces of collar fabric right sides together and Place the lightweight interfacing on top and pin the layers together.
Sew the edges and top of the collar. Remove pins .Trim the corners. Turn the collar inside out. Push the corners of the collar using a thick knitting needle or with the tip of the scissors.Iron the seams. Fold the edge of one layer of the collar,which will be the facing, little bit inside the seam line and press.
Pin the other layer of the collar and the interfacing to the right side of your article of clothing. Start at one end of the neckline opening and pin the layers of the collar all the way around the neckline opening. The collar should be the same length as the neckline opening. Tuck the raw edges into the collar and press. Place the folded edge of the other layer of the collar on top of the joint making sure it just covers the joint and stitch in the ditch.

Convertible collar

2010-05-19T09:28:00.000-07:00

Convertible collar is a pointed collar.It is worn with the neck button either fastened or unfastened.

A-B= ½ neck line of front and back +¼”.
Draw perpendiculars from A and B.
A-C =collar width=3½” or to taste.
A-C = B-D.
Mark H on B-D such that B-H =¾”
Produce C-D to E such that D-E =1 ¼”
Join H-E and produce to F such that E-F = ½”
G is midpoint of A-B.
Shape curve G-B and curve C-F as shown in the figure.

Plain open collar

2010-05-19T08:25:00.000-07:00

Join front and back bodice at the shoulder. Measure the neck line.
A-B = half the neckline measure. Draw perpendiculars from A and B
A-C =3½” or to taste.
B-D = A-C. Join C-D.
G is midpoint of A-B
B-E = about ¾”
F-D = about ¾”
Join F-E
Draw the curve A-G-E

Rolled Peter Pan collar

2010-05-19T05:16:00.000-07:00

This collar is made-up of a single piece. It is turned down with a rolled effect at the neck line.
Join Front and back bodice at shoulder line
Measure the neckline of front and back.
A-B = ½ neck line +¼”
Draw perpendiculars from A and B
A-C = collar width=2½”
A-C = B-D
D-F =¾”
B-E =1½”
Join E-F
Shape A-B-F and C-F as shown

Various types of flat Peter Pan collar

2010-05-19T04:14:00.000-07:00

Method of sewing flat Peter Pan collar

2010-05-18T23:41:00.000-07:00

Step 1

Place the shoulder lines of front and back of the bodice draft together on a sheet or paper as shown in the figure. Let Points at E coincide and points at F overlap by 1/2” .
Step 2
Trace the neck line A- E-C. Remove the Front and back draft. Draw another line A’ E’ And C’, 2” away from the neck line and parallel to the neck line A-E-C and give shape as shown in the figure.
Step 3

Add ½” seam all around and cut the draft of the collar.

Stitching

Simple and easy to follow Tutorial is here which explains the method of attaching peter pan collar

Method of cutting chudidar by preparing a bias bag (method 2)

2010-05-17T08:32:00.000-07:00

Turn the bag in such a way seams do not fall on the portion below the knee.

Draft is placed on the bias bag as shown in the figure and pattern pieces are cut.

The green dotted line is the stitching line on the bag,behind the draft

Practice preparing the bias bag with some waste material and then do the actual one.

Chudidar pyjama Method 1

2010-05-17T07:22:00.000-07:00

Cudidar pyjama is a pyjama with fullness at the top and tightly fitted below the knee level. Length of the pyjama will be more than the actual length .There will be gathers below the calf.Chudidar goes well with Anarkali top.

Chudidar is cutting is done on bias .It can be done in two ways.
Method 1.By keeping the draft on the material in bias
Method 2. By preparing a bias bag.

Measurements

1.Full length
2.Seat
3.Knee round
4.Bottom round

Instruction for drafting

A-D =full length
D –E = for gathers =3 to 5” or to taste
E-F =I” for folding.
A-G =1⅛” for casing
A-B = 1/3 seat + 1”
C is the midpoint of B-D.
Draw perpendiculars from the points G, A, B, C, D, E and F
G-H= 1/3 seat+ 2”to 4” as per wish
G-H = A-I = B-K.
K-R =1½” to 2”
R-L =1½”
J is the midpoint of I-K
Shape the front curve H- I-J-R and back curve (red curved line) H- I- L as shown in the figure.
C-M =half of knee round + ½”
N-E =half of bottom round +½”
R-N =4” to 6” for opening
Join the curve R-M-N-O and L-M-N-O as shown on the figure
Red line is back shape of the chudidar

Method 1.

In this method draft is placed on the material in bias. See layout 1. Plenty of material gets wasted in this method .If the width of the material is not enough divide the draft in to 2 pieces by cutting on the dotted line P-Q.in the draft Unfold the draft .Cut the upper part on straight grain and the lower part on true bias. Add ½” seam allowance at each side along the line P-Q. in the draft. Later on stitch the two pieces together and proceed.

A line Kurthi

2010-04-16T03:22:00.000-07:00

Bodice

Simple kameez draft can be modified to A line Kurthi by making following changes.
The length of Kurthi is measured from the nape of neck to hip or to taste.
Shape of the side is should be changed.
This dress can be stitched with or without waist darts.
Figure 1 is the draft of simple kameez. Pink dotted lines show the changes that are made.
A-Z = Length of Kurthi
Draw perpendicular from the point Z.
Z-X=D-F +2½”. Join F-X.
Figure 2 is the draft of A line Kurthi.

Sleeve

Draft of the Kurthi sleeve is same as draft of the Simple kameez sleeve.

Method of stitching Patiala salwar

2010-03-27T11:59:00.000-07:00

Measurements needed

1 Seat
2 Full length
3 Crotch depth=Sit on a hard chair and measure at the side from the waist to the chair seat .
or 1/4th of seat +4"
4 Leg round

Waist band

A-B=seat/2 + 1½” or to taste depending upon the fitting needed.
A-C =Seat/6 +2”.

Side panel

E-G =full length –length of the waistband +2½”.
Mark point I such that E-I = E-G – 3”.
Draw perpendiculars from E, I and G.
E-F =panel width=Leg round + 2 to 4” depending upon the built of the person.
I – J = E-F.
G-H =leg round/2 + 1”. Join F-G-and H.

Kali

K-M = F-J of the side Panel.
K-O = crotch depth - waist band length + 1”.
Draw perpendicular from K and O.
K-L = width of the material used for stitching.
O-N = K-L .Join L and N. Join M-N by curved line as shown in the figure.

prepare the draft Place the draft on the fabric as shown in the layout in Figure 2 and cut the pattern pieces. Cut kali along the line K-M and separate

Pattern pieces

Waist band -2nos
Side panels –2 no’s
Kali-4 nos

Stitching

Turn in 2” of the leg round H-G-H’, and stitch sandwiching 1½” of canvas in between the folds
Take one of the side panel and attach kali on either side as shown in the figure 4. Do the same thing for the other side panel.

Fold this into half along the line E-G, keeping right sides together and stitch the curve M-N as shown in the figure 5Stitch the other leg portion also in the same manner.

Keeping right sides together join these two leg portions at the crotch line as shown in the figure 6.

Join the two pieces of the waist band. Keeping right sides together pin front crotch seam ( select any one ) to front waist band seem(select any one). and back crotch seem to back waist band seem. Attach each leg portion with the waist band by taking pleats of equal width .The pleats should start from the centre of the front portion of the waist band and extend upto the centre of the back of the waist band. The pleats of each leg portion should be facing each other.

Fold the other edge of the waste band by 1” and prepare casing for the draw string.

Method of stitching sari blouse

2010-03-22T07:09:00.000-07:00

Sari blouse is worn along with a sari, as its name suggests. As soon as a sari is bought matching blouse is stitched. Blouse can be of the colour of the border of the sari or the colour of body of the sari. People who are short it is advisable to wear the blouse that matches the body of the sari. Contrast colour blouses can be worn along with plain sari. Blouse with cute prints looks good with a plain sari. Sari blouses should be created with a full opening either in the front or in the back.
There are many varieties of blouses. They may have long or short sleeves or sleeveless and the blouse length can vary from very short to waist length with varieties of necklines and back patterns.
Sari blouse is a tight fitting garment. It should be custom made. I have explained here the basic method of drafting a sari blouse. It is advisable to prepare a paper draft and then the fabric is cut. A trial blouse is stitched first with a cheap material. There might be some wrinkles here and there which can be corrected in the paper draft while stitching the next blouse. The difficult part in stitching sari blouse is attaching the sleeves to the body. I feel it is better to attach the sleeves to the body with running stitch. Stitch the sides of sleeves and sides of the body also with running stitch. Wear the blouse and check for any wrinkles. Corrections can be made at this point. When you are satisfied with the fitting machine stitch the blouse. Thus the blouse draft can be standardized

Measurements needed
Chest
Full length of the blouse
Shoulder
Sleeve length
Sleeve round

Front length-Measured from shoulder along the highest point of bust to where bra cup ends.

For taking body measurements please refer here and also the figure 1.

Front
A to B= front length + ½”.
A to C = ½ shoulder + ¼”.
On the line A-B mark D such that A-D =¼ chest -1¼” or 1½”.
A-D is called scye depth. It varies with chest measurement. It can be calculated using the chest measurement.It can also be measured directly on the body. It is measured from the nape of the neck downwards to a line that joins armpits. refer Figure 1

Scye depth for various breast measurements

28” to 30” =¼ chest-¾’ to 1”
31” to 33” =¼ chest-1” to 1¼”
34” to 36” = ¼ chest-1½” to 2”
37 “ to 39” = 2¼” to 2¾”
40 to 42 =3” to 3½”

Draw perpendicular lines from the points D and B to the line A-B.
On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark H on A-B such that A-H =neck depth =1/8th chest or to taste.
Shape front neck curve H-G.
Mark D-E=¼ chest +1 +1/2".
Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
Produce D-E to K such that E-K=. ½”.
Mark L on B-F such that L-F =½’
Join K-L.
On the line D-E mark point I such that D-I = ½” less than A-C.
Join I-C .On the line I-C mark point R such that C-R =½” or ¾”. Join G-R.
On the line I-C mark a point J such that I-J =1”.
Shape the scye round R-J-E-K.
On the line D-E mark a point S such that D-S =1/12th chest +¾”.
On the line A-B mark point M such that B-M =1”.Join M-L by a curved line as shown in the figure.
Drop a perpendicular from the point S. This line meets the curved line M-L at P. On this line Mark point T which is the bust point It can be marked in two ways.

Method 1

Mark T such that distance S-T=1/8th chest-1½”.

Method 2

Actual bust length is measured from the shoulder line to the highest point of the bust. Mark T along the line U-T passing through S such that U-T is equal to is the bust length.

Darts

All the darts should point towards the bust point T
Mark N on the line A-B such that D-N =S-T. Take ½” or ¾” dart
At point P a dart of 1¼” to 2” dart of required length is taken
On the line K-L mark a point O such that O-L = 1” take a dart of ¾” wide and of required length.
At the point J take a dart of ½” wide of required length.

Belt

U-V= Full length of the blouse –Front length +½”.
V-W =B to F -1½”( size of the dart taken).
W –X =U-V -1”.
Shape the curve U-X identical to the curve M-L.
Y-W= ½”.
Join X-Y..
Back

A-B =Full length of the blouse +1”
A-D is scye depth = same as scye depth of front the blouse.
Draw perpendiculars from A,D and B.
A-C= ½ shoulder + ¼”.
Mark D-E=¼ chest +1½”.
Mark F such that B-F = D-E.
I- F=½” .Join E-I.
On the line A-C mark G such that A-G =the neck width = 1/8th chest or to taste.
Mark K on A-B such that A-K = Back neck depth =1/12th chest or to taste.
Shape back neck curve K-G.
On the line D-E mark H such that D-H = A-C. Join H-C.
On the line H-C mark a point R such that C-R =1”.
Shape the Back scye round R-E.
B-L=1/12th chest +½”. A dart L-M of ½” width and of required length is taken here.

Sleeves

A-B= sleeve length + ½”.
K-A =1"for folding.
From the points B , A and K draw perpendiculars.
B -C is as A-D = scye depth of the body taken while drawing body draft + ½" to 1½ “.
For smaller sizes B-C is equal to the scye depth .
B-C =K-L.
Join C-L.
Mark D on the line C-L such that D-C =1/8th chest -½”. It should be between 3 to 3½”
B-J = 1”.
Join D-B .F is the middle point of D=B . F-H =¾”
G is the middle point of D-F. I-G= ½”
Shape the front scye curve of the sleeves D-I-F- J-B and Back scye curve of the sleeves D-H-J-B.
A-E = ½ sleeve round + 1" for seams.Join L-E.

Parts of a blouse

Prepare the draft and separate each part.Label all pattern pieces..Mark" place on fold" on the center-line of the back.Add 1/2" extension along the line of opening of the front to attach button-stands.(shown by shaded area)Mark the center of sleeve top.
Place the parts of the draft on the fabric and cut the parts
Stitching
Step 1 Stay stitch neck,armscyes and sleeve top.

Step 2 Stitch darts.

Step 3 Attach the belt to the body.

Step 4 Stitch button stands. Right side should overlap the left side. Extension is stitched to the left side and right side is finished with a facing.

Step 5 Join shoulders.

Step 6 Finish neck line with Piping or flat facing

Step 7 Hem the lower edge of the sleeves and back.

Step 8. Attach sleeves to the body, matching center line of the sleeves to the shoulder line and easing wherever necessary.

Step 9 Stitch sides of the sleeves and body.

Step 10 Sew hook on the underside of right button stand and work eyes on the right side of left front facing

Simple Kurthi & Angarakha style kurthi

2010-02-21T00:45:00.000-08:00

Kurthi is shorter version of simple Kameez. Usually its length reaches the hips. It can be stitched with various types of fabric. It can be stitched short or long with various types of neck and sleeves. Draft of Kurthi is same as the draft of simple kameez except for its length. The length of Kurthi is measured from the nape of neck to hip.

Angarakha style Kurthi is one such variation. It's got a specific cut to it, in which it opens from the front and overlaps to the side, and is typically tied with a hook or a dori

Method of drafting simple Kurthi

Prepare a draft by following the method of drafting Simple kameez .Shorten its length till hip-line or to taste.This is Kurthi draft.

Method of converting simple Kurthi draft to Angarakha stye Kurthi

Back

Keep the back as it is.There is no change.

Left front

Step 1

Place the draft of Kurthi front on a sheet of paper and draw the out line. Add 2”allowance outside the center front line A-B.

Step 2

Change the neckline to curved V shape.as shown in figure 1

Right front

Step 1

Fold the extension of the Kurthi left front (just now prepared) back on the line A-B. Place it on a folded sheet of paper such that line A-B falls on the fold of the sheet of paper. See figure 2

Step 2

Draw the outline of the draft.Cut along the line and open the fold. Shape the neck curve extension the as shown in the figure by dotted line. This divides the draft into two parts-Part 1 and part 2.

Step 3

Cut and remove the shaded part 2 .The remaining portion part 1 is Kurthi right front.

Sleeves

same as Kameez sleeves

Anarkali top with panels flaring from the waist

2010-02-15T22:34:00.000-08:00

Method of drafting Panels starting from waist line.

Refer the draft . Fig 4. Pin panel No 1 on a sheet of paper extend the line U-V on both directions to the points 5 and 6 by 3” or to taste, as shown in the above figure . Join the points 5 and 6 to the points I and I’ respectively which are the points of intersection of the panel lines to the waist line. Follow the same procedure to add flare to other side panels. For the middle panel line is extended on only one side.

Anarkali dress top with panels

2010-02-15T09:39:00.000-08:00

Using basic Anarkali top bodice draft various other styles of Anarkali tops can be drafted .Anarkali top with panels is one of them. Even in this there are two types. In one type Panels flare from the bust line. In the other panels flare from the waist line.

Anarkali top with panels flaring from the bust line

Method of drafting

Step 1

Place the draft of the front and back of bodice of Anarkali top on a paper as shown in the figure 1 Fold of the draft should fall on the fold of the sheet of paper.Trace the out line of the draft.Mark back and front shapes of armhole and neck.Remove the draft.

step 2

On the fold of the paper mark point Y such that A –Y is equal to the length of the dress. From the point Y draw a perpendicular line Y-U such that Y-U =E-G. Join U-G. Now we have to divide chest line F-D in to panels of equal width. If the chest line is not devisable equally add the reminder to the side panels. On the chest line F-D mark points P, Q and R such that such that side panels F-P =P-Q= Q-R.and the middle panel R-D = ½ Q-R. Through these points draw linesX-X', W-W', and V-V' parallel lines to the line Y-A. These lines divide the front and back of the dress into seven equal parts each. R-D, which is on the fold, is the middle panel. In this manner we can make as many panels as we want. See Figure 2 .

Step 3

Transfer these lines to the fold of the paper which is below keeping carbon paper between the folds of the paper. Cut along L-K-T-F-G-U-Y-L. Separate the sheets by cutting on the fold lineY-L.Take away one sheet which is below.This is the draft for the half portion of back. On the other sheet which is on the top cut the front neck line K-M and front armhole shape T-N-F. This is half portion of the front. See Figure 3. Number the panels as shown in the figure. Numbering the panels is important as we have to stitch them together in the same order.
Panel 1, 2 and 3 are side panels of the front
Panel 4 is half of the middle panel of the front
Panel 5 is half of the middle panel of back
Panel 6, 7 and 8 are side panels of the back

Step 4

Divide draft into panels by cutting along lines X-X' , W-W' and V-V' and separate the panels as
shown in the figure 4.

step 5
Method of adding flares to the side panels

Pin panel No 1 on a sheet of paper extend the line U-V on both directions to the points X and Y by 3” or to taste, as shown in the figure5 These points X and Y should be joined to the points F and P’ which are the points of intersection of the panel lines to the bust line. Cut along the outline of the shape. Follow the same procedure and add flares to remaining side panels .While cutting the fabric side panels should be cut in duplicate. One set for the right side and the other set for the left side.

step 6
Method of adding flare to the middle panel

Pin the panel 4 on to a folded sheet of paper such that the line Y-L is on the fold. Produce Y-X to A such that X-A is 3”. Join R-A.cut along the line-A-R-X’-L-D-E-Y and open the fold. This is Back middle panel .Follow the same procedure for the front middle panel 5. Cut along the line A-R-X’-M -D-E-Y . Open the fold.This is the front middle panel.See figure 6.

Add ½” seam for all the panels as shown in the Figure. Mark the seam line.

Stitching.

Stay stitch neckline, armscye and slant cut of the panels.It is better to Tack the panels together and then machine stitch.This prevents the panels from streching.stitch the rest of the dress as usual..

Anarkali salwar set top

2010-01-13T02:56:00.000-08:00

Anarkali salwar top has two portions, bodice portion and skirt portion.It is figure-hugging till the upper torso and below that, it turns into a frock and gets a lot of flare.Length of the bodice will be up to lower border of the ribcage . Anarkali suits are worn with churidars . This dress can be stitched with plain sleeve, ¾ sleeve, full sleeve or sleeveless. Skirt can be gathered,pleated , flared , half circular or circular.
Circular cut skirt is also called umbrella skirt. There will be no side seams and no gathers in the waist.It requires material with wider width. If material with wider width is not available it can also be stitched by joining two pieces together such that joint comes at the back of the skirt.Anarkali dress looks good if it is stitched with flowing material like chiffon

method of drafting

Measurements need

Chest
Waist
Shoulder
Bodice length- measured from shoulder line near the neck to the lower border of the ribcage. (depends upon one's taste also )
Full length - from shoulder line to bottom of the dress.
Sleeve length
Sleeve round

Body front and back

A-E =Bodice length +1"
A-D =¼ chest -1”
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, and E
A-B =½ shoulders + ¼”
A-K = Neck width =1/12th chest or to taste
A-L =Back neck depth =1¾” or to taste
A-M = front neck depth 1/8th chest or to taste
D-F =¼ chest +1½” (if loose fitting is needed 2 “to 2½” can be added)
Mark point S on D-F such that D-S =A-B. Join B-S. On this line mark N such that S-N = 1½”
N-O = ¾”
Mark T on B-S such that B-T = 1”. Join K-T. Shape back neck K-L, front neck K-M as shown.
Shape front arm scye T-N-F and Back arm scye T-O-F
E-G =D-F and G-I =½”. Join F-I
Mark U on E-G such that E-U = 1/12th chest+ 1/2"
P-U= length of the dart = 1/6th chest

Skirt

B-D =1/6th waist
A-D=Full length -bodice length +1½”
From B draw perpendicular B-C.
B-E =B-D and E-C = A-D Shape D-E and A-C as shown in the figure

Sleeves

refer here

Layout

Bodice

Place the draft prepared on the fabric as shown in the lay out and cut the different parts . While cutting the bodice back an extra extension of 1½” is added along the line L-E for button stands( shaded area). If the material is not wide enough ¼” of the extension is added for seams along the line L-E and while stitching separate pieces are attached.

skirt

Skirt is generally cut without a seam at the circumference if the material if wide enough. When the width of the material is not wide enough same material can be joined at one side. While stitching care must be taken to keep the joint at the back.

Step 1

Place the draft on the material and mark the outline. Mark the place A –B where extra piece to be added.
Step 2

Cut the extra piece of material beyond the outline.
Attach it along the line A-B taking care to match the grain.

Step 3

Place the draft on the fabric thus stitched and cut the draft

Stitching

1. Stay stitch neck line, Shoulders, armscyes and top of the sleeves.
2. Stitch button stands (Plackets)
3. Stitch darts of width ¼ “
4. Stitch neck by giving piping or flat facing or fitted facing
5. Hem the sleeve edges.
6. Stitch the sides of the sleeves and sides of the bodice.
Measure the waist.
7. Cut a slash of 3” in the waist line of the skirt .Stitch it with continuous bound placket.
Measure the waist of the skirt. It should be equal to the waist of the skirt.
8. Attach the skirt to the bodice.
9. Finish the Curved bottom of the skirt by hemming

Method of stitching strap keepers

2010-01-11T20:02:00.000-08:00

Strap keepers work in two ways .They prevent bra straps from peeping out of the neck and also prevent wide neck lines falling away.
Prepare fabric tubes from the fabric which was used to stitch the garment. The length of the fabric tube taken should be little more than the shoulder line of the garment. It should not be too long or short. Finish raw edges of the fabric tubes by turning them in. Sew the two halves of a press button one on each side of the fabric tube as shown in the figure. Fold the tube in the middle such that the two halves of the fastener face each other and stitch it to the seam of arm scye where the shoulder line is attached to the sleeve. If the length of the tube is too small there will be wrinkles on the shoulder. While wearing the garment one end of the strap is passed under the bra strap and the button is pressed together.

Interchangeable strap keepers

Take ¼” wide satin ribbon. Let the length of the ribbon be little more than the length of the shoulder line. Stitch the raw edges. Sew the two halves of press fastener one on each side. stitch the middle of the ribbon to the safety pin as shown in the figure. This can be used as a strap keeper by fixing the safety pin to the seam of the arm scye where the shoulder line and the sleeve meet.

simple kameez

2010-01-08T09:32:00.000-08:00

Measurements needed

Chest
shoulder
waist length
Full lrength
Hip
Sleeve length
Sleeve round

for taking measurements refer here

Body front and back

A-C = full length +1”
A-D =¼ chest -1”
A-E =waist length
Mark point R such that E-R = 7” (for seat line)
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, D, E, R and C
A-B =½ shoulders + ¼”
A-K = Neck width =1/12th chest or to taste
A-L =Back neck depth =1¾” or to taste
A-M = front neck depth 1/8th chest or to taste
D-F =¼ chest +1½” (if loose fitting is needed 2 “to 2½” can be added)
Mark point S on D-F such that D-S =A-B. Join B-S. On this line mark N such that S-N = 1½”
N-O = ¾”
Mark T on B-S such that B-T = 1”. Join K-T. Shape back neck K-L, front neck K-M as shown.
Shape front arm scye T-N-F and Back arm scye T-O-F
E-G =D-F and G-I =½”. Join F-I
R-S =¼ seat +1½”
C-H =¼ hip +2” shape I-S-H
C-J =½” shape kameez bottom J-H

Darts

Mark U on G-E such that U-E =1/12th chest +1/2".P-U =U-Q =1/6th chest

sleeves

A-B = Sleeve length
B-J =1½” or 1" for folding
Draw perpendiculars from A, B and J.
A-C = ¼ chest -1” . A-C =B-D. Join C-D
Mark L on the line A-C such that A-L =1” .
Mark E on the line D-C such that E-C = ½ of A-C
B-I = ½ sleeve round + 1”
J-K=1/2" more than B-I .
Join I-E and I-K Join E-L. G is mid- point of E-L.
H-G = 3/4 “.Draw a line E-F perpendicular to E-C such that E-F = = 2” Join E-F-L and E-H-L. As shown

Cut the draft along the line K-T-O-F-I-S-H-J-C-R-E-D-M-L-K.Separate the sheets. Keep one aside. This is the draft of the kameez back. In the other portion cut the front neck shape K-M and front scye shape T-N-F.
Cut the sleeves draft along the line A-B-J-K-I-E -H –L-A. Open the fold .Cut the front sleeve shape E-F-L-A Draft of the sleeves is ready.

Layout

Place the paper drafts on the fabric as shown in the layout and cut the different parts of the kameez.

stitching

Stay stitch neck, arm scyes and top of the sleeves.

Stitch the back opening of required length as explained here.

Join the shoulders.

Stitch darts starting from one pointed end to other pointed end . Fasten the threads at both the ends.
Stitch the neck with flat facing or fitted facing
Pin the sleeves to the arm scye, keeping right sides together ,taking care to pin sleeve front to body front and shoulder line to the middle line of the sleeve .Tack them together easing wherever necessary. Machine stitch them.

Join the sides of sleeves and sides of the body, starting from the sleeve end and to the point where the slit starts. Usually two lines are stitched side by side .But they should end at only one point where the slit starts as shown in the figure Turn the slits inside and stitch. Stitch the bottom of the kameez .

Method of stitching a neck with fitted facing

2009-12-24T22:51:00.000-08:00

Using these drafts cut facing pieces (figure 1)

Method of attaching facing to the Garment

Stay stitch the neck of the garment and the facing,
Stitch shoulder seams of the garment and the facing keeping the same seam allowance. Open the seams and press. (Figure 2)
Fold the lower edge of the facing by ¼” and press. Keep the facing flat on the garment, right sides together, matching the shoulder lines and the contour of the neck. Baste them together. Machine stitch on the seam line. Trim the seam by ¼”. Clip the curved edges and cut the corners a little, taking care not to cut the stitching. (Figure 3 )
Press the seams towards facing secure them by under stitching on the right side of the facimg.Turn the facing inside on the seam line such that facing is not visible from the right side and it lies flat on the garment.Press.Secure the facing against the garment with short hemming stitches Figure 4

Method of preparing facings

2009-12-24T21:46:00.000-08:00

Place the draft of front and back of the bodice on a sheet of paper as shown in the (figure 1)step 1 and mark the neck line and shoulder lines (green dotted lines). Remove the draft. Mark the other edges of the facing curve A-B-C .This curve can be of the shape of the neck as in step 2 or different as in step 2a. .If it follows the shape of the neck the width of the facing should be same all over. Cut along the line A- B-C. (Step 3)Open the folds (Step 4) we get drafts of front neck facing, right back neck facing and left back neck facing.

Fitted facings

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Fitted facing is also called shaped facing.In this method, facing is cut in the same shape of the neck. We can tell it is the duplicate of the shape of the neck. The edge that is to be stitched to the neck line has the same contour of the neck .The other edge of the facing is usually parallel to the edge to be stitched to the neck. Sometimes it can be of different shape. Almost all the types of neck can be stitched by this method. It gives a very good finish.
It is better if the facing is prepared from the same material as the garment. If the material is not wide enough pieces can be joined taking care of the grains. Seams should be opened and pressed.

Fabric tubes

2009-12-19T19:15:00.000-08:00

There various methods by which one can decorate neck. Now a days decorating with” fabric tubes” are in fashion. Fabric tubes can be bent to take the shape of any curve (except for narrow curves) so it used in applique work for creepers Fabric tubes are used to make loops also.

Method of making Fabric tube

Cut true bias strip if the fabric 1 ½” wide. (Figure 1). Fold the strip in to half length wise. Keeping right sides together machine stitch as shown in the fig. 2, leaving ¼” seam. Thread a tapestry needle with a thick thread and knot the end. Take a stitch at the point A and secure it with one more stitch. (Fig 3) Insert the needle through the opening near the point A. (fig4) . comes through the other end. (Fig 5). Pull the thread slowly. This turns the tube inside out.

Prepare your own bishop dress collar guide continued.........

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Sleeves

1 to5 =H-G. 5 to 2 = sleeve width =2½ to 3 times the curve J-J2
For distance H to G see here in figure 1
6 to 5 =distance H-J
3 to 6 = under sleeve length measured from arm pit to the required length
2 to 4 =1 to 6 +6 to 3. Shape the curve 6 -5 keeping armhole shape guide

Body front and back

Make four layer fold

7 to 11=H to G and 11 to 8 is 2½ times or 3 times the distance of the curve J –J’
11 to 12 =distance H-J
12 to 9 length of the dress from arm pit
Curve 12 to 11 is shaped using the armhole guide draft.
Open the fold and keep one layer for the front. Cut the other layer in the middle along the line 8 to 10.
Those two portions are right back and left back. While cutting the fabric an extra extension of 1¼” should be made at the opening (shaded portion) for button stands.

Prepare your own bishop dress collar guide

2009-12-18T11:09:00.000-08:00

Measurements needed

Shoulder
Chest
Sleeve length
Sleeve width
Full length of the dress.

Method of folding the paper

Fold a sheet of paper twice making four layers as shown in the figure

Keeping B-F on fold mark B-F= ½ shoulder +½”
B-A =½ shoulder +½”
F-H =¼ chest +1½”
B-C =B-D=1/12th chest
From the point D draw a perpendicular line such that D-E = B-C.Join C-E
A-I=1”
Mark the point G on F-H such that A-B = G-F
G-K=1+1/2”

Join shoulder slope C-I

Figure 2

Shape the neck line C-D as shown. Front and back neck depth are same.
Join H-K and produce.This line meets the curve at J.
Shape the yoke curve A-F Keeping the width of the yoke same throughout.
This curve cuts line H-K-J at L
While blocking the smocking, sleeve seam should on the line J-L
Shape the armhole. A-I-K-H

Figure 3

Cut the yoke D-J-C-I-L-F and open the fold once . We get 2 layers .They are front yoke and back yoke .

Figure 4

Keeping one portion aside which is the front, cut the other portion along the line D-F .These two portions are left back yoke and right back yoke. Mark sleeve seam line position on all the yoke pieces. (Pink lines)

Figure 5

Join the yoke pieces at shoulders with cellophane tape as shown in the figure . This is bishop dress collar guide
1 to 2 and 3 to 4 = shoulder lines
5 to 6 and 7 to 8 = front sleeve seams
9 to 10 and 11 to 12 = back sleeve seams
While cutting the fabric an extra 1/2" of extension to be made for attaching button stands ( shaded area)
After separating the yoke from the paper draft the remaining portion A-I-K-H is used as armhole shaping guide.

(Please note that the drafts are not to scale)

continued..........

Stitching neck with bias flat facing

2009-12-11T09:37:00.000-08:00

Stitch bias binding of width 1"to the neck keeping right sides together. While stitching ease the edge of the binding against the curve of the neck, at the same time stretch the other edge of the binding. Trim the seam. Clip the seam at intervals taking care not to clip the machine stitch. Turn the bias binding towards the seam and press. Stitch on the right side of the facing very close to the seam line. This is called under stitching. This holds the facing and the seam in place. Turn the facing on the seam line such that facing is not visible on the right side and it lies flat on the garment. Turn in ¼’of the other edge of the bias binding and stitch in place against the garment using small hemming stitch.

Methods of stitching neck

2009-12-11T08:42:00.000-08:00

Neck can be stitched by giving piping or bias facing or shaped facing
As soon as the fabric is cut stay stitching should be done at the curved edges of neck and arm hole. This prevents the neck and armhole from losing their shape while handling.

Piping method

Piping is suitable for neck designs with wide curves.Neck designs with narrow curves are not that suitable.
Cut Bias binding four times the width of the finished binding .Press the seam allowances of ¼” on the longer edges of the binding. Stitch the bias strip to the neck keeping right sides together and having a seam allowance of ¼”. Turn the bias binding over the raw edge to wrong side and hem in the line of the machine stitch. If you want to machine stitch, turn the bias binding over the raw edge to the wrong side such that the binding just covers the machine stitch and tack. Machine stitch from the right side. Stitch in the seam joint of the neck and bias binding.

2009-12-11T08:30:00.000-08:00

Under stitching

Under stitching is done on the right side of the facing very close to the seam. It holds the facing and the seam in place

Clipping

After attaching the facing to a curved edge seam is clipped at intervals before turning the facing towards wrong side .By doing so curved seam will lie flat when the facing is turned inside. This gives good finish to the garment.

Ease

Easing is done while joining two cloth pieces in such cases where one of which must be longer than the other to get good finish. While attaching bias strip to a curved edge easing is done.

Basic stitching terms

2009-12-11T08:25:00.000-08:00

Stay stitching-

Stay stitching should be done as soon as the paper draft is removed from the fabric .It is a line of regular machine stitch done on curved or biased edges. It prevents the curved edges from losing their shape. Stay stitching is done on single layer of the fabric. It is usually done 1/8” from the seam line with in the seam allowance. On deep curves it should be done on seam line

I did it !

2009-12-09T18:52:00.000-08:00

To day at last I managed to bifurcate my blog in to two,one for sewing and the other for embroidery. Thanks for "cute n cool blog stuff" by Itkupilli which helped me to do this.

Basic stitches that one should know

2009-12-09T03:33:00.000-08:00

Tacking

Tacking is a temporary stitch used to hold two or more layers of fabric. Length of the stitch need not be small. It can be of ¼” or ½”It is removed after permanent stitching is done. It should be not done be where the permanent stitch .It should be done close to permanent stitch line but behind .Tacking can be removed by clipping the stitch 3 “ or4”intervals. Care should be taken not to put permanent stitch on the tacking. It can be stitched with single or double thread, knotted at the end; evenly spaced stitches are made by taking the needle in and out of the fabric. Line of tacking is ended with 1 back stitch or a knot.

Running stitch

Method of doing running stitch is similar to tacking. End of the thread is knotted. Small stitches are made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric. Stitches should be small and evenly spaced. It is used to make gathers.

Overcast stitch

Overcast stitch is used to keep raw edges from unraveling

Hemming

Hemming is used to finish the hems.

Catch stitch

Catch stitch is used to hold a raw edge against a layer of fabric. It is worked from left to right.Take needle out at the point A on the fold. Take a small stitch at BC on the single layer .Once again take a stitch DE on the fold. And continue.

Slip stitch

Figure 1

I like this stitch very much.It gives perfect finish for the hems.Slip stitch is used to make invisible hem. It will not unravel as most of the stitch is hidden under the layer if fabric. It is worked from right to left with a single thread fastened with a knot hidden inside the hem. Bring the needle out through the folded edge at point” a “; pick up a few threads of the flat single layer of fabric at “ bc ” and then work through the fold again at ” d “ . Slide the needle along, come out of the fold at “a’ “ to make the next stitch. This stitch is very useful in attaching sari fall

Back stitch

Back stitch is the strongest stitch which can be used when garments are hand stitched
Bring the needle out at A insert needle at appoint B, behind A (1st step).Bring the needle out at the point C (2nd step) one stitch AB is formed. Once again insert the needle at the point A (3rd step) and bring the needle out at D (4th step) 2nd stitch CA is formed. Continue like this. Dotted line signifies the thread behind the fabric.

Fairies costume

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Fairy’s costume is nothing but a skirt with plenty of gathers with wings .It can be mini, midi or maxi skirt. It can be with puff sleeves or sleeveless. It looks good if it is stitched with thin material with matching satin lining. Pastel colors are suitable. Bodice is stitched first .Then the skirt portion is attached. Gathers should be more .It will be nice if the width of the skirt is thrice the chest.
Wings are prepared separately.

Bodice front and back

Keep A-C on Fold. A-C = Waist length + ½”.
A-O =¼ chest-½”.
From the points A, O, and C draw perpendiculars.
A-B = ½ shoulder width + ¼”
A-N =1/12 th chest +¼” or to taste
A-I =1/12th chest +½” or to taste
A-H = 1½”. Shape back neck N-H and front neck N-I as shown in the figure
O-D =¼chest +1½” .O-D =C-E
M-E =1/2” .Join D-M.
B-G =½”. Join N-G
F-J =1”.Shape G-D back armhole and G-J-D front armhole as shown in the figure.
L is half of C-M.A dart of 1/2” is taken along the line K-L as shown in the figure.
Add 1"+ 3/4"extension along the line A-C at centre back of the bodice for button stands.Shown by shaded portion in the layout.

Sleeves

M-N= ¼ chest +1½”.N-P =sleeve length+2” for puff +½ for folding
N-P =M-O.
M-Q = 1/12 th chest+¾”.Join Q-N
O-T=¾”Join Q-T
S-T = ½”M-R = 1/12th chest. R-U =¾”.
Shape Back arm round Q-R-N, front arm round Q-U-N and P-S

Skirt .

Gathers should be more .It will be nice if the width of the skirt is thrice the chest. You can stitch full length skirt or knee length skirt.

Wings

Take two aluminum hangers. Cut and remove the hooked portion and straighten the wire. Cut a template of a wing with a card board. Keeping this as a model, shape the aluminum wire. Prepare two wing shapes with the wire. Cover the wire with thin gold ribbon with the help of glue. Cover the shapes with tissue material or netted material. Join the two wings in the middle. Two straps stitched with the material of the dress are attached to the wings as shown in the figure( purple one in this figure), distance between them being equal to shoulder width. After wearing the dress tie the wings at armholes. Take one end of the strap under the armhole and take the other end above the shoulder and tie in front it like a bow. Do the same thing for the other side also.

Stitching peasant top

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Join front and back of the bodice to right and left sleeves as given 1-2 to 3-4,5-6 to 7-8,9-10 to 11-12 and 13-14 to 15-16.Attach 1½” bias binding to the neck keeping right sides together .Fold over and stitch .This is the casing to pass draw string. Make a small button hole in middle of the front to pass draw string. Fold over the edges of the sleeves to make the casing for elastic, Pass elastic of the length equal to sleeve round and secure the ends to the sides of the sleeve by 2 or 3 back stitches. Join sides of sleeves and bodice .Fold the bottom by ½” and stitch. Pass a draw string through the neck casing

Make your own peasant top

2009-12-08T10:47:00.000-08:00

Bodice front and back

A-B= ½ shoulder+¼”
A-P =length of the top +1½’
A-O = 1/12th chest
A-H =1½”
A-L =1/12th chest+1½”
A-C =¼chest-1”
Draw perpendiculars from C and P
C-E= ¼ chest +1”+½”
C-D =A-B
Join B-D
Mark F on the line B-D such that D-F =1”
Join O-H and O-L back and front neck shapes as shown in the figure. Mark G such that O-G = 1”
Join G-F and produce. From the point E draw a perpendicular E-N to the line G-F produced.
Produce E-N to M such that N-M =E-N
Shape E -F-G as shown in the figure LIPK is extra material 2” wide for gathers in front. And HIPK is extra material 2” wide for gather at the back. Width can be increased or decreased according to taste.

sleeve

A-B= ½ shoulder+¼”
A-O = 1/12th chest or to taste
A-H =1½”
A-L =1/12th chest+1½”or to taste
A-C =¼chest-1”
Draw perpendiculars from C
C-E= ¼ chest +1”+½”
C-D =A-B
Join B-D
Mark F on the line B-D such that D-F =1”
Join O-H and O-L back and front neck shapes as shown in the figure. Mark G such that O-G = 1”
Join G-F and produce. From the point E draw a perpendicular E-N to the line G-F produced.
Produce E-N to M such that N-M =E-N
B-R = sleeve length +2"
R-Q = sleeve width+1/2"
Join M-Q.
Shape M-F-G as shown in the figure
SRTO is extra fabric ,O-T =S-R= 2" wide for gathers. It can be varied according to taste.

Method of drafting and cutting for beginners

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When there are identical parts usually pattern is drafted on folded paper. For example right and left sleeves front and back of bodice etc…. Both the shapes of front and back such as neck, armhole etc……are marked on the top fold itself. Outer line is cut first .Sheets are separated. This forms the back. On the top sheet the inner lines are also cut .This forms the front. Care should be taken to measure from the fold line. Facing line for neck, armhole etc …can also be marked .position for darts can also be marked.
Precautions to be taken while cutting the material.
1. It is better to shrink cotton material before cutting or ½’ extra should be added for width.
For the length we can add still more. It depends on the material. I prefer to wash, iron and
then cut the pattern.
2. Straighten the grain of the fabric by pulling the corners material .If the fabric is long you need help of another person. Lay the fabric on a table keeping both the selvedges together. If it forms a rectangle and the warf and weft are perpendicular it means fabric is grain perfect. Sometimes shopkeepers also would have cut the fabric bias. That also should be corrected. Pull a thread from width wise from end to end and cut on the line got by pulling the thread.
3. Fabric should be ironed lengthwise. Length wise means the grains that run parallel to the selvedge.
4. Selvedges should always come to sides .(side of the sleeve, side of the bodice etc…..)If the garment is stitched width wise it will not stretch. It will be uncomfortable to wear. Dresses get torn fast.
Measure the width of the draft and fold the material according to that. Keep the fabric on table and smoothen it so that there are no folds. Place the large pieces of the paper draft first. Check whether the garment has back opening or front opening. Keep the one that has got no opening on fold line. Selvedges should come to the sides. Arrange the other small pieces .Pin the pieces to the fabric without lifting the fabric.If there is not enough fabric to cut same pieces together cut them separately. Mark darts and notches and then remove the pins.

Pattern making(for begginners)

2009-11-23T19:45:00.000-08:00

Making a paper pattern is a must for the beginners. I prefer to make paper patterns and then cut the fabric. It saves time and material and the paper draft is reusable. We can adjust the placing of the paper pattern on the fabric according to the material available. If the fitting is not good we can make necessary alterations in the paper pattern itself. Same paper pattern can be used as basic and design different patterns
Materials needed
1. Sheet of paper.
We need thick sheet of paper if we want keep the draft for a long time and use it again and again. If not news paper is well and good. Once we get correct fitting we can make cut pattern in thick cardboard and use it for future use.
2. Pencil
3. Eraser
4. Ruler
In the paper pattern ½” seam allowance will be there unless it is mentioned.name of the parts should be written .If two identical parts are cut separately we have to mark R and L on the draft. For example sleeves. Especially while cutting plain material we end up cutting two right sleeves.
½” seam should be added to attach button stands. If we have ample material button can be cut along with the bodice. Care must be taken to mark the place by notches from where the button strand starts. Notches should be made to mark important points that must coincide while stitching. The point of notch should project beyond the cutting line of the pattern.

Puff sleeves with gathers at the top only

2009-11-20T04:56:00.000-08:00

Swing the sections apart at the cap line only keeping the sleeve edge together.Give shape as shown in the figure . We get gathers, only at the cap of the sleeve.

Another method

Puff sleeves with gathers at bottom only

2009-11-20T04:50:00.000-08:00

By spreading the sections only at the bottom as shown in the figure sleeves will have gathers only at the bottom .

puff sleeves with more fullness

2009-11-20T04:21:00.000-08:00

Plenty of fullness at top and bottom of the sleeve can be obtained by making more sections and spreading them apart Mid line of the sleeve is extended both ways
as shown in the figure 2. Shape is given as shown.

Varieties of puff sleeves from plain sleeve

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Here are a few varieties of puff sleeves.

Puffed sleeves

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Puffed sleeve has gathers at the armhole as well as at the sleeve round. There are several types of puffed sleeves. At the edge of the sleeve some will have sleeve band, some will have piping and some will have open gathers .Some will have more fullness at the top as well as at the bottom. Some will be tight the bottom and very loose at the top. Mutton leg sleeve will have more fullness at the top and will be tight fitting at the bottom. On the whole the shape of the puff sleeves depends upon the gathers.

Draw the outline of the basic plain sleeve on a brown paper and divide it in to 4 equal parts (fig 3) label them as 1, 2, 3 and 4 On another sheet of paper draw a line and arrange the four portions in the same order in the same order leaving gaps between each portion such that the new distance between J and J’ is 1½ times the original J-J’ measurement. Spaces between the four portions should be equal. Secure the portions to the sheet with pins.
Mark D’ ¾” above D and B’ ¾ below B and draw connecting lines between the four portions as shown by dotted line in the figure 5.cut along the line J’-B-J F- D-’F’and J’.T his is the draft of the puffed sleeve

Method of drafting plain sleeve

2009-11-18T04:44:00.000-08:00

Measurements needed
Sleeve length
Sleeve round
Chest
Mark B-D on fold = Sleeve length +½” (Shaded portion is 1” for in turn for plain sleeve.)
D-C =1/12 Th chest+½”
Draw perpendiculars from D, C, and B
D-E =¼ chest -1”
D-E =C-F
B-J=sleeve round + ½”
Join D-F and F-J
Divide D-F into four equal parts by points G,H and I. Draw perpendiculars from those points such that
G-K= ¼”, H-L=½” and I-M=¼”
Join the points F-K-H-M-D by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the front portion of the sleeve.
Join the points F-L-D -by a curved line as shown in the figure. This is the back portion of the sleeve.
Cut the paper draft along the line B-J-F-L-M-D. Open the fold .and cut along the curved line F-K-H-M-D.
This is the draft of basic plain sleeve. Outline of the draft is traced on a fairly thick card board and a block is prepared which can be used as foundation for all other types of sleeves.

Basics in sewing-Taking body measurements

2009-11-14T07:19:00.000-08:00

Shoulder =A-B = Measured from the prominent bone at the end of one shoulder to the prominent bone at the end of the other shoulder.
Chest = Measured around the fullest part of the chest= C-D
Waist line. =Measured around the natural waist line= G-H
Hip = Measured around the fullest part of the hip=I-J .Usually 7” to8” down from the waist line.
Upper arm = biceps =.Measured around Q-R
Sleeve width= Measured around the edge of the sleeve =O-P.
Sleeve length= Measured from B, on shoulder line, to the edge of the sleeve S
Full length for the bodice = E-F Measured from the shoulder line to waist.
Full for skirts, Salwar etc… = Measured from waist line to the bottom edge of the garment
Neck width=1/12th chest + 1/4"or to taste.
Front neck depth=1/12 th chest + 1/2 " or to taste.
Back neck depth1"+1/2"or to taste.
Full length of long skirts= M-N . Measured from nape of the neck to the bottom edge of the skirt .

Pavade Blouse( Blouse worn on long skirt)

2009-11-06T01:11:00.001-08:00

Measurements

Chest
waist
shoulder
full length of the blouse= G to H
sleeve length from = A to N
sleeve width
Sleeve band width
refer here for taking mesurements

Bodice

A-B (On fold) =length of the blouse+1”
A-L waist length
A-C = ¼ chest-½”
Draw perpendiculars from the points A, C.L and B.
A-D = shoulder width +¼”
C-F =¼ chest +1½” K-N-F-O-G-H-I-C-L-B-K
B-K =F-C
A-C =D-E
J-N =½”
Join and shape F-N-K
D-O =½”
Join G-O
G-A =1/12 chest + ¼” or to taste. A-I = 1/12 chest + ½” or to taste. A-H =1
Shape back and front neck G-H and G-I
M is midpoint of J-L .A dart of ½” is stitched at the point M on both front and back of the bodice
E-E” -1”.Join and shape front armhole- E-E’-O. Join and shape back armhole F-O
Cut the draft along K-N-F-O-G-H-I-C-L-B-K. This includes front and back of bodice.
Separate front and back by cutting along the line A-B. Keep one portion aside. This is the back of the bodice. On the other portion cut front armhole shape F-E-E’-O and front neck shape G-I. This portion is front bodice draft. An extra ½”extension is added along the line A-B while cutting the material for stitching button stands. If there is more material right and left button stands can be cut along with the bodice.

Sleeve

Q-P = length of the sleeve+2”for puff - width of the band
S-Q =¼ chest+1¼”
S-T=1/12 th chest+¾”.R-P = S-Q
R-W =½”Join T-W. S-X =1/12th chest. X-U =½”
Join and shape T-X-Q back of the sleeve.
Join and shape T-U-Q front of
V-W =½’
Shape V=P.
Sleeve band
Length = a-b= c-d= width of the sleeve ( sleeve round)+ ¾” for seams
a-c=b-d=double the width of the band + 1/4"

Some other designs of pinafore dresses

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Denim pinafore

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Draw lines on the Simple pinafore draft as shown in the figure (pink dotted lines).Please refer here
Bib -Cut along U-N-M-I (-IU on fold) ---2 pieces
Waist band- Cut along U-’N’-O-V (U-’V ‘on fold width U-’V’ being double the width U-V in the skirt)—2 pieces
Back skirt - Cut along V-O-H-B (V-B on fold)
Front skirt – Cut along V-T-P-H-B (V-B on fold)
Pocket layer 1 - Cut along S-T-O-P-Q-R--S
Pocket layer 2- Cut along S-T-P-Q-R-S
See the different parts in the figure.
While cutting on the material leave ½” all around except for the sides for seams
Parts

Stitching

Skirt front -Keep pocket layer 2 on skirt front, right sides together along the curve T-P .clip at 2 or 3 places .turn the pocket layer inside and press.
Keep and pin the skirt front on the right side of the pocket layer 1 such that points T-S-R-Q-P Match (consider all the three layers-Skirt front, pocket layer1 and pocket layer 2).Stitch pocket layer1 to pocket layer 2 along the line S-R-Q Baste the pocket to the skirt along the line S-T and P-Q.Other side of the pocket is also stitched in the same manner.
Stitch the Waist band along V-O to the skirt front keeping wrong side of the skirt and the right side of the band together. Press .Fold ½” along the line U-’N’ and again fold to the front and stitch to the right side of skirt along the line VT. Waist band is attached to the skirt back in the same manner.

Bib

Bias bind arm hole and neck line .Attach bib to the waist band keeping the waist band ½” above the line UN of the bib
Stitch the sides of the skirt together
Shoulder straps –Fold ½” and stitch along the length of the shoulder strap. Attach them to the front and back of the bib.Stitch the bottom hem by folding 1". Finally top stitch .

Simple pinafore dress

2009-10-08T10:35:00.000-07:00

Method of drafting

A-B = length of the dress + 1” + 1/2 “
A-D -= I /4 chest+ 1/2”
Draw perpendiculars from A, D and B and mark the points C, E and F as follows:-
A-C = shoulder width + ½ “
D-E=1/4 chest +1” + ½”
B-F = D_E + 2”
A-C =D-L .Mark point G on C-L such that C-G = ½” Join H-G
Join E-F. Mark H such that H-F =1”
A-H = 1/12 chest + ¼”. A-I = 1/12 chest + ½”
A-K=1”
Shape back neck K-H, Front neck I-H.Shape scye C-G-E. Shape bottom .B-H

If the cloth is wide enough button stands can be cut along with the back as shown. Otherwise separate pieces are joined.

Parts

Stitching

Join left and right of the back pieces till the button stands. (Shown by dotted line)

Stitch right and left button stands .Join shoulders .Stitch neck and armholes with matching piping. Stitch

sides. Finally fold bottom by 1” and hem.

How to fix sari fall

2009-09-15T04:17:00.000-07:00

Selecting fall
Usually we select fall that matches the border. For light colour sari I prefer to select fall which matches the body colour. If the colour of the fall bleeds whole sari will be spoiled.
Selecting the thread
Selection of the colour of thread depends upon the place where the stitches fall.
Preparing the fall
Soak the sari fall in salt water for 15 minutes, wash, dry and iron.
Stitching the fall
Stitch the side edges of the fall with machine or hand stitch.
Lower edge of the sari is stitched with small running stitches adding back stitches in-between. Daily ware sari is can be stitched by machine with zig- zag stitch.
Step 1

Spread the sari on a flat surface. Secure the fall with pins to the sari so that there or no wrinkles. Thread

the needle with one strand of matching thread (I have used different thread so that it is easily visible in the

image.). Bring the needle out at A from the back of the fall.

Step 2

Take a small stitch BC (Go down at B come out at C) on the sari just below the point A
Step 3

From the point D near to A( point D should be very close to Point A) Take Big stitch DA'.This stitch should

be under the fall only. Stitch should not visible on the sari.( please see the line diagram also) Stitches AB

and CD will be together like two vertical stitches. These stitches are seen in the image” step 1 repeat “

these are one set of stitches.
Start second stitch from A' and continue.This is called slip stitch
Step 1 repeated

Right side of the sari

Six piece sari petticoat

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Measurements needed
Waist
Hip- measured around the widest part of the hip. Usually 7” or 8"
below the waist line.
Full length
Width of the waist band.
Instructions for drafting
Line A-F should fall on the fold
A-F= full length –Waist band width 6”.
Mark point D on A-F such that A-D =7 “or 8”
Draw perpendiculars from A, D and E
A-B =1/8 waist +1/2”
A-C =1/2 “
D-E =1/8 hip + ½”
Join B-E and produce. This line meets the perpendicular drawn from F at H.
G-H =1/2”
Shape B-C and F-H
Cut along C-B-H and F
Cut along the folding line C-F and separate the sheets.

Layout

Fold the material twice, making 4 layers. Place the paper draft on the cloth as shown in the figure B and cut.

Parts

We get 6 panels 2 central panels, 2 right side panels and 2 left side panels as shown in figure C

Stitching

Join the side panels to the central panel. 2-8 to 3-9, 4-10 to 5-11. Do the same thing to the other set .We get 2 pieces A and B, one set for back and the other for front. as shown in the figure D

Now we have to join front to back.Keeping right sides together join front to back. Join 1-5 to 4-8. On the other side keep an opening of 6”. Join9-6 to 10-7.Do not stitch the portion 2-9 and 3 -10 together.Turn them inside and stitch separately. This is the side opening.

waist band

Measure the top of the petticoat (waist line) and cut a waist band ABCD 6” wide and length equal to the top of the petticoat + I”. Fold ½” on ends A-C and B-D of the waist band and stitch. Fold ½” along A-B and C-D and crease Open the side A-B and attach it to the petticoat top from inside. Keep right side of the band and the wrong side of the petticoat together and stitch on the crease made earlier .Fold the band length wise stitch the edge C-D to the waist line so that the fold just covers the machine stitching at the waist line. Turn the bottom of the petticoat by 1” and stitch.-Run a draw string along the waist band.

How to stitch the neck opening

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If the neck is small an opening can be made in front or back of the garment,Mark opening a-b on the garment.Do not cut.Cut a piece of facing P Q X Y, 4” wide and and the length being 2”more than the length of the opening.Mark the line of the opening of the same length on the facing also. Turn1/4 “ under on sides and bottom of the facing ( x-p, p-q and q-y). Fold the facing on the line a-b.Place the edge against the line a-b marked on the garment,keeping right sides together.Line a-b on the garment should coincide with the line a-b on the facing.Secure them with pins.Stitch along the m-b and n-b. (Slant lines} m-a = a-n =1/4” Reinforce at the point b.Cut along the line a-b taking care not to cut the stitches.Turn the facing to the wrong side.Crease along the seam line and press.Hem the edges x-p,p-q and q-y to the garment.

How to stitch a nightie

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Front and Back
Draw the draft on a folded sheet of paper keeping A-N along the fold.
A-B = Shoulder width + ¼”.
A-F = Neck width =1/12 chest + ¼” or to taste.
A-G =Back neck depth = 2” or to taste.
A-H =Front neck depth =A-F or to taste.
A-D =1/8 chest +3”.
A-L =Waist length + ¼”
A-N = Full length + 1”
Draw perpendiculars from D, L and N
D-C =A-B. Mark point I such that I-C = 1”
D-J =1/4 chest + 2” or to taste.
L-K = D-J. Mark O such that O-K = ½” or to taste.
N-M =¼ chest + 10” or to taste. Join O-M.
M-P =3/4”.
Join points F-E, J-O and O-P. Shape P-N.
Shape back neck F-G and Back scye E-J.
Shape front neck F-H and front pcye E-I-J. (Shown in pink lines)
Cut along the line G-F-E-J-O-P-N.
Open the fold. Cut along folded line. Separate the sheet on which lines are not marked. This is the draft for the back of the nightie.
On the other portion of the sheet on which lines are marked cut the front neck shape F-H and front scye shape E-I-J.This is the draft for the front of the nightie.

Sleeves

Draw the draft on folded sheet of paper keeping A-C on folded line.
A-C =Sleeve length +1/4”
A-X = 1” for folding.
Mark point B. Such that B-C =1/8 chest.
Drop perpendiculars from X-A-and B.
A-D = Sleeve width =Half of sleeve round + ¾” for seems.
B-G = biceps = 1/8 chest + 3”.
X-F is marked a bit longer than A-D as shown the figure. This gives a good finish for the hem.
Join X-F-D-G-C.
Mark H such that H-C =1”. And Mark I such that I-G = 2”.
Shape G-H -C (back side of the sleeve).
Shape G-I -H -C (front side of the sleeve- pink line).
Cut along X-F-G-H -C. Open fold. Cut along the pink line G-I -H -C.

cutting

Prepare paper drafts of the parts of the nightie as described .Fold the material such that selvedges come to sides and right side together .Keep the fold line of the daft on the fold line of the material and cut. Open the fold of the draft of the sleeve. Place it on folded material and cut two sleeves together. While cutting plain material care should be taken not to cut two left sleeves or two right sleeves

Stitching

Stay stitch neck line, shoulders, armsyes and top of the sleeve .This avoids stretching of the fabric while handling. Join front and back bodice at shoulders. Stitch sleeve hem. Attach sleeve to the bodice taking care to match body front to sleeve front. Stitch neck line with bias binding. Stitch front and back sides of sleeves and bodice. Hem the bottom of the bodice.

Pavade ( Long pleated skirt)

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Measurements needed
Shoulder = A to B
Chest = C to D
Waist length = G to M
Waist = E to F
Sleeve width = I to J or K to L

draft of bodice

Front and back of the bodice of pavade draft is same except for the neck. It is economical to cut paper drafts and then cut the cloth. Draft should be drawn on 4 fold paper. Line 1 to 3 should be exactly on the fold. Draft of the back and front is drawn on four fold paper.

1 to 3 =length of the bodice +1/2 “,
1 to 2 = 1/8 chest=2”+/2”, draw perpendicular lines from 1, 2 &; 3.
1 to 6=shoulder (from nape to shoulder end, at the sleeve point) +1/4”,
1 to 7=neck width=1/12 chest+1/4”or to taste.
1 to 16 = back neck depth=2”+1/2” or to taste.
1 to 11= front neck length depth=1/8 chest or totaste .
Shape back and front neck as shown in the figure.
2 to 5 = 1/4 chest + 1” + 1/2 “.
2 to 9 = 1 to 6. Join 6 &; 9.
6 to 8= shoulder slope = ½”.Join 7 &; 8.
Shape arm hole 8 to 5. 2 to 5=3 to 4.
4 to 10 =1/2”. Join 5 and 10.
3 to 14 =1/12 chest + ½”
14 to 15 =2”+1/2” .
A dart of ¼” is taken at the point 14
Cut back draft( blue line )is cut on four folds. Back draft which is behind is separated. Front neck (green line) is cut on the remaining two folds. This will be the front bodice.

Skirt
Measurement needed for skirt
Length- length from waist to desired length.
Width- width of the skirt depends upon the gathers. 2 to 3½ times the waist measurement is suitable.
Stitching
Join shoulders. Stitch button stands. Stitch darts (½”)at the places shown in the bodice draft. Stitch armhole and neck with bias binding.
Stitch the sides of the skirt. Attach skirt to bodice distributing the pleats evenly around the waist.