Here is the method that I followed.
Preparation of draft (Figure 1)
Draw a rectangle PQRS having side P-S on fold
P-Q= ½ seat +3½ “
P-S =7” for adults and for children ⅟₆th seat +½”
Draw A-B = ½ of P-Q
From B draw a line B-C perpendicular to A-B such that B-C = full length – waist piece length + 1”
From the point C draw line C-D perpendicular to B-C such that D-C =½ ankle round
On the line B-C mark point F such that ⅟₆ th seat round + 1”
From the point F draw a perpendicular line to B-C.
From point A draw a perpendicular line to A-B.
The perpendicular lines drawn from the point A and B meet at point G.
Produce F-G to E such that E-G = 2”
Join the points E and A by a curved line as shown in figure.
Cut along the lines A-B-F-C-D-E-A and remove the draft.
Using this draft as basis flaps of samosa salwar can be prepared.
Preparation of inner flap (Figure 2)
Place the draft on a folded sheet of paper such that B-C falls on the fold line.
Mark the outline and cut along the outline
Duplicate draft is got
Join H-C by a curved line as shown.
Cut only the top layer along the line H-C
Open the top layer.
B-H-C is the inner layer which is covered by the upper layer.
A-B-C-D-E-A is back of the salwar leg piece. You can have pleats at the back or you can leave it plain. I am showing here how to stitch with pleats at the back also.If you do not want to pleat the back you can skip steps 5 & 6.
Preparation of inner flap continued in (Figure 3)
Draw lines on the back of the leg piece draft .Cut along the lines.
Spread the daft on a sheet of brown paper and mark out line. Cut along the line
Once again place the original draft on a sheet of news paper mark the outline.
Cut along the line and get a duplicate draft.
Join B-D by a curved line as shown and cut along the line.
We use this draft to get front upper flap.
Preparation of upper flap is continued in figure 6
Draw lines from top to bottom as shown in the figure.
Step 6Cut along the lines keeping bottom portion intact
Spread this draft on a sheet of brown paper and secure with pins. Mark the outline and cut and remove the draft..
This is the draft of front upper flap.
Place the pattern piece of inner flap wrong side up and fold and press along the line B-D as shown.
Place the draft on the fabric of your choice and cut the pattern piece. Make a notch at the point B.
Finish the curves B-D of the upper flap and H-D of inner flap with piping with contrast fabric or with lace.
Curve X-B of the upper flap is pleated and stitched to H-B of the inner flap.
Keeping right sides together stitch side E-D of the upper flap to side E-D of the inner flap.
Stitch the other leg piece also in the same manner.
Join both the leg pieces stitching along the crotch line.
Prepare the waist piece as in the case of “Salwar with waist band".
Stitch the waist band to the leg piece such that flaps come to the front.
Pass draw string through the casing of the waist band.
Now samosa salwar is ready to wear.