Tuesday, December 4, 2012

My trial of samosa salwar



This is my trial of samosa salwar. To the best of my knowledge this online tutorial for Samosa salwar is the first of its kind. Samosa salwar has two flaps one covering the other. When I started to think about the method of sewing samosa salwar, the first thing that came in to my mind was “Tulip skirt”. Tulip skirt is a wraparound skirt where one flap covers the other. I applied the same method to each leg piece of salwar . The result was good!  Here is the method that I followed.

Preparation of draft (Figure 1)
Waist piece
Draw a rectangle PQRS having side P-S on fold
P-Q= ½ seat +3½ “
P-S =7” for adults and for children ⅟₆th seat +½”
Leg piece
Draw A-B = ½ of P-Q
From B draw a line B-C perpendicular to A-B such that B-C = full length – waist piece length + 1”
From the point C draw line C-D perpendicular to B-C such that D-C =½ ankle round
On the line B-C mark point F such that ⅟₆ th seat round + 1”
From the point F draw a perpendicular line to B-C.
From point A draw a perpendicular line to A-B.
The perpendicular lines drawn from the point A and B meet at point G.
Produce F-G to E such that E-G = 2”
Join E-D.
Join the points E and A by a curved line as shown in figure.
Cut along the lines A-B-F-C-D-E-A and remove the draft.
Using this draft as basis flaps of samosa salwar can be prepared.

Preparation of inner flap  (Figure 2)


Step 1
Place the draft on a folded sheet of paper such that B-C falls on the fold line.
Mark the outline and cut along the outline
Duplicate draft is got
Step 2
Join H-C by a curved line as shown.
Step 3
Cut only the top layer along the line H-C
Step 4
Open the top layer.
B-H-C is the inner layer which is covered by the upper layer.
A-B-C-D-E-A  is back of the salwar leg piece. You can have pleats at the back or you can leave it plain. I am showing here how to stitch with pleats at the back also.If you do not want to pleat the back you can skip steps 5 & 6.


Preparation of inner flap  continued in (Figure 3)


Step 5
Draw lines on the back of the leg piece draft .Cut along the lines.
Step 6
Draft can be spread like this.



Step 7
Spread the daft on a sheet of brown paper and mark out line. Cut along the line
Make a notch at the point B..

Preparation of upper flap (Figure 5)


Step 1
Once again place the original draft on a sheet of news paper mark the outline.
Step 2
Cut along the line and get a duplicate draft.
Step 3
Join B-D by a curved line as shown and cut along the line.
Step 4
We use this draft to get front upper flap.

Preparation of upper flap is continued in  figure 6






Step 5
Draw lines from top to bottom as shown in the figure.
Step 6
Cut along the lines keeping bottom portion intact
 


Step 7
Spread this draft on a sheet of brown paper and secure with pins. Mark the outline and cut and remove the draft..
Step 8
This is the draft of front upper flap.

Fabric cutting
Figure 8

Place the draft on the fabric of your choice and cut the pattern piece. Make a notch at the point B.


Stitching
Figure 9



Finish the curves B-D of the upper flap and H-D of inner flap with piping with contrast fabric or with lace.

Figure 10.






Place the pattern piece of inner flap wrong side up and fold and press along the line B-D as shown.

Figure 11



Pin point B of the upper flap to point B of the inner flap and point H of the upper flap on point H of the inner flap. Pleat upper flap.


Figure 12
 


 Curve X-B of the upper flap is pleated and stitched to H-B of the inner flap.

Figure 13.


Keeping right sides together stitch side E-D of the upper flap to side E-D of the inner flap.
Stitch the other leg piece also in the same manner.
Join both the leg pieces stitching along the crotch line.
 Figure 14



Prepare the waist piece as in the case of “Salwar with waist band".
Stitch the waist band to the leg piece such that flaps come to the front.
Pass draw string through the casing of the waist band.
Now samosa salwar is ready to wear.





Photobucket

36 comments:

sri said...

mam i want to do satin ribbon garland can put step by step photo of that

vani said...

I have not done ribbon garland.Do you want to know the procedure of the ribbon flowers or Kanzashi flowers?

Unknown said...

approximately how many meter of material needed

Aries said...

Do we have pleat at the back also?

Aries said...

do we have pleat at the back also

vani said...

If you want you can keep it plain.Then you need not spread the inner flap as shown in step 5 and 6.

jagruti bhansali said...

hi, vani madam i am so impress, i like yr. efforts and i inspired too.
i want to know is it possible to stich anarkali without kali

vani said...

anarkali without kali is umbrella frock

Priya Lokanathan said...

Hello Vani mam

I found your blog very useful. In fact I was searching for step by step procedure for measurement, cutting & stitching. Yours provide a detailed information. Thanks and wishes for your efforts.

Priya

Arshiya said...

Hi Vani Mam,
Do you conduct classes. if not do you know of any good sewing classes happening around hsr / bellandur side.

Arshiya said...

hi Mam,
Do you know of any good sewing classes conducted around hsr

vani said...

Hi Arshia Sorry I do not conduct classes. Since I do not go out much I have no idea about sewing classes.

Arshiya said...

Hi Vani Mam,
Most of the readymade kurtis have placket in front . Not for fastening but for designs.( somesort of a vertical patch ) . i really wish to know how its tailored. also do you have a tutorial explaining how to sew a chinese collar. I am sewing a lot just by following your instructions. They are really very simple and perfect. Thanks a Lot.

Zulfiqar Haider said...

Hi vani I am your new viewer I want 2 learn drafting cutting & tailring . How can I see your previous tutorials??

vani said...

Hi Arshiya

See here. http://artvani-vani.blogspot.in/search/label/Method%20of%20stitching%20neckline%20placket
If you use contrasting material it will become a design. See the yellow dress in the above post.

vani said...

Hi
Zulfiqar Haider
Please see under the heading Lables on the right hand side of my blog There is a list of the posts .Click on the ones you want.

Ananthalakshmi said...

Hi Vani mam,

Wonderful to see your last three tutorials on samosa salwar, dothi salwar etc.,you have got really high energy to formulate a tutorial like these. For anything I stitch I refer your blog. Thanks for sharing.

Regards
Manjukps

Kousalya Santhanakrishnan said...

hello vani mam,

for the past one year i following your site, even i have wrote so many things from your blog. can you please send me the dhoti salwar and samosa salwar drafting to my mail id? i will use that for my personal use only. i can writedown the stitching method from your blog, but it is difficult to draw every draft.
My suggestion is you can even write books on stitching and hand works, so that the beginners like me can buy the same for our personal use.

thanking you!
Kousalya S
kousalya_25@yahoo.co.in

Kousalya Santhanakrishnan said...

hello vani mam,
for more than 1 year, i am following your blog, for stitching and craft works. your dhoti salwar and samosa salwar attracts me a lot. can you please send me the drafts for the above two to my mail id for my personal use. my suggestion is that you can write books on crafts and stitching so that the beginners like me can buy the same for our personal use.
thanking you!
Kousalya S

Kimberlyds said...

Ma'am, I have been following your blog for a couple of years now and I really love your tutorials. Not only are you very very talented, but you come across as a wonderful human being as well - patient, generous, selfless!
And I say that after coming across one of your posts where you have so very patiently answered a series of questions with regard to the Bishop dress pattern. If only there were more people in this world like you... :)
I just HAD TO say this much in appreciation of your efforts. Thanks for your wonderful blogs and God Bless..

Kimberlyds said...

I just wanted to say I have been following your blog for a couple of years now and I love your tutorials. Not only are you very very talented, but you come across as a wonderful human being as well - patient, generous, selfless!
And I say that after coming across one of your posts where you have so very patiently answered a series of questions with regard to the Bishop dress pattern. If only there were more people in this world like you... :)
I just HAD TO say this much in appreciation of your efforts. Thanks for your wonderful blogs and God Bless..

Shanmathi said...

mam
i am following your blog about 4 or 5 months.it is very very useful to me and i learn more from you. thank you very much

priyanka said...

hi mam i like your tutorials alot ..can u please post about umbrella gaghra pattrens cutting

rama amarnath said...

Hi vani ma'am

Thanks for your excellent blog.can you include how to sew a padded blouse in your blog

Saiqah said...

Hi vani sorry I couldn't post on the simple kameez I sewed a kameez with all the directions but for sum reason my shoulder seems go back like the neck pulls back. I hope u can help me

Upendra Sharma said...

I found your blog very useful. In fact I was searching for step by step procedure for measurement, cutting & stitching. Yours provide a detailed information. Thanks and wishes for your efforts.

shantha said...

Hai mam in samosa salwar for adults we have to take 7" for children only th seat is printed how much I have to take please let me know

shantha said...

Hai mam
I am trying samosa salwar there for adults you have mentioned 7" for children some text is missing it is displaying th seat + 3 1/2 ". How much I have to take for children. My elder daughter is 15 years and younger 10 years

vani said...

I have written 1/6th of seat + 1/2"

Pramila Sudharshan said...


Pramila said

Amma I have stitched saree blouse to my monther as per your stitching instruction it cameout fantastically, thnk you so much amma, amma now i needed prices cut saree blouse detailed instruction to stitch for my sister as a surprise present pls amma pls mail to email ID pramilasudharshan@gmail.com as im a beginner im finding little bit difficulty in understanding the measurement but im working hard amma your blog is like a gift to me

thanks
amma

Lata Sundar said...

I am from Bangalore. I have some questions on a sari blouse. How can I get in touch with u ?

Thank u

kamakshi said...

i like all your stitching patterns mam.

sundari b said...

how many metres of cloth is needed for samosa salwar

Kay Otto said...

Dear Vani

Your tutorial on the "samosa salwar" was just what I was looking for. Thanks so much for the clear instructions.

I will also be looking at your other tutorials.

Kay in the USA

aida bach said...

Hi Vani

When you drew the outline, the CD will be the ankle + ease. How about the AB? It looks larger than 1/4 hip + ease. Also, do you know if the pleats will provide the diagonal distance when lifting legs. I am looking for a pattern that allows me to squat while the bottom stay down, no contact with my body. I can see the pleats add hip, thigh circumference with style. But I worry if that is sufficient to produce the space for lifting legs high (equals to squatting).

I think I still want to make it, just for the stylish way to insert the wider hip and thigh circumference.

Laxmilikhita said...

Hi I am interested in A- line frock .I would like to see my self with the help of your images.Please send me the PIC to m my mail I'd laxmi.likhita